WackoWolf

Anyone building this kit, treat yourself to some strips of Walnut and ditch the Manzonia, the images are of the Manzonia bent, but I wastred a lot of strips trying to achieve this. The wood grain runs similar to what I can only describe as ply, and trying to bend so tight just split, split, splits and more splits before I got it to bend. Hot water, Steam, you name it I tried it. I will be replacing the lost strips with Walnut which appears the same. Colour matching of the same timber in the kit, don't get me started with that one. I may paint her but still haven't decided so the wood has to at least be reasonably close match
 
Oh, just to let you know if your feeling brave to attempt it, well lets face it you have the Manzonia timber, use a plank bender, the pliers type that just creases the back with a blade and be careful, you need a lot of pressure but to much and watch it fly past your shoulder. Crimp as close together as possible mm even and bend as you crimp, they will behave eventually.

Welcome back, Greg.
 
That model has really turned out very nicely indeed.
 
John

Here are photos of the bow shaped cross trees.  Not certain how to run shrouds form the cross trees at the top of the photos to the bow structure.  Not sure if there even are any.  Lee's book does not show or say.

Well.... Thank You Pete38!!!!!! The cnc machine is just another tool to me, there are things that are still best done the old fashion way...    
 
AL

First of all my thanks to all who visited and your likes, much appreciated.
 
Continued today with dressing the mines and fitting them in the bin.  It's a tight fit but I can move them in and out okay.  After I was happy with that task working out okay I added the arming switches to the sinkers.  The trigger cords still need to be finished but that'll be done Sunday and then I can paint them and call it done
 
It was a short day for me because I first had to go to the DIY store and buy a new lawn sprinkler head and after lunch I decided to make dinner.  Ran down to the local green grocer and bought nice root veggies and organically grown tomatoes.   Then off to the butcher and got me a nice chunk of beef.  I planned making a Belgian style beef stew with a good dark Belgian beer - yummo!!!
Gwen was happy she didn't have to cook ad it came out just great.
 
Okay, I did make a few pics of one mine inside its bin but they are still not painted.
 

This shows one of the mines fitted inside its bin. 
 

Another angle of the mine inside its bin, you can also see part of the arming cable.  The other end is hooked to the side of the bin and as the mine is dropped down it pulls the switch lever that arms the system.  Rather ingenious.
 
Cheers,

Hello again every one and thanks for visiting and your like votes.
 
The mine saga is close to coming to an end, hurray   I cemented most all of the hardware on with two part epoxy and started cleaning it up.
I also cemented the tracks in the mine tube on the sub.  There is still adjustments to be made to make them slide down into the bin but that'll have to wait till the weekend.
 
I also made 10 of the 3 mm pulleys, another hurray!     I managed to snap one drill bit though, a # 68.  No matter how slow I fed the drill this brass is tough and the drill snagged enough to make it fgo beyond it's design limits    .  I'll just blame it on junky Chinese drills    I got the broken part out after I made two pulleys. 
Sooooh I sharpened the broken drill bit by hand and eye with a diamond file and it worked okay for the rest of the pulleys - - - being extra careful.
 
I tried fitting one of the mines in the bin and it would only go half way in so I need to file the fake "roller guides" some more.  Once I get them to slide in nice and easy they'll be painted a dark grey to offset them with the rest of the boat.
 
Well, this is it for today.  A few pics below for my archive and your viewing pleasure.
 

I cut a strip of plastic that fits snug between the two U channel tracks inside the mine bin.  I think they are close to 180 degrees to each other.  I'll have to adjust the mine sliders to make them fit.  I used two part epoxy cement.
 

This shows two mines - now with all the hardware on them except for the arming switch which will be done after the mines fit.
 

This shows all ten of the 3 mm pulleys.  As yuns can see I made the pulley pin holes rather small and had the reduce the diameter of the brass nails I am using for them.  I believe this is closer to scale then using those 1 mm nails.  These are 0.4 mm in diameter.
 
Cheers,

Nenad:  I used a ponce wheel for my riveting;  However, I saw a technique (I can't remember where) where the modeler cut a block of wood the size of a plate, and drilled holes for pins to make a "stamp" to stamp out identical rivet patterns for each plate.
 
Nice looking tests so far!
 
Bob

Nenad you have a great sense of humour, your last entries made me laugh. :"Man, in which century you live?"  I can just imagine the look on their face.
 
The wheeled tool I know as a "ponce wheel", they are also used for doing large transfers where you lay tracing paper over a drawing and then ride the wheel along the lines then place the tracing paper over the new areas and then dust it with coloured chalk. when the paper is removed there are all the coloured dots to outline where the paint goes.
And they do work really well on the copper plates.
 
Michael

Stern post and gallery:
Here we go! I have received them from cornwallmodelship in the U.K.
I have painted them and currently making the window.
I have also adjust them to the ship. She is waiting for them now.
I hope to post some new pictures soon.
In the mean time, here is a pick of the stern gallery and the stern post as they are
today.
Have a nice week end folks!
 
Ps. just discovered that there is a lot of brass fittings missing from the kit. As I bought it from a second hand site on the internet, impossible to retrace the original owner. I contacted Mantua, they don't bother to answer....I just want to buy the missing parts!!!
If anyone have a Mantua kit, I would like to know what exactly is coming in the plastic bag where the ship wheel and the brass eyes which comes on the deck. It will be a great help, so I can order the missing parts. Thanks in advance !!
 
 

Hello Shipmates.
 
Another update.. on the victory.
 
Quarter Deck is now planked and all tree nails and gun port hardware added.

 

 

 
View of side ..No sanding here until all planks are in place and tree nailed.

 
Quarter deck Timbers made up and ready to install.

 
Not all the timbers are glued together yet as will do this on assembly.

 
Getting to the part where adding the outer planking after this deck is planked and furniture is added.
Then trimming the two end faces.
 
All the gun woodwork parts are made and I have decided to remake the barrels.
 
That's about it for now..
 
Regards Antony.
 
 
 

The Problem:
 
Anyone who has followed my HMS Terror scratch build may remember my issues with blackening brass fittings for the stern assembly. To briefly summarize, I immersed the parts in a standard 8:1 mixture of Blacken-It solution mixed with bottled water, waited until the parts turned the appropriate colour, then rinsed in bottled water to “neutralize” the reaction. I tried this several times on different parts and each time it resulted in a flaky, blotchy appearance that could not be made even despite buffing with a soft cloth.
 
 

Here is an image of my results. Note the blotchy and flaky texture.
 
Inspired by the fine results of other modellers on the boards, I resolved to master the “mysteries of the blue Liquid”.  I began with research; modelers, gunsmiths, jewellers, instrument makers, and mechanics all use various products and processes to chemically blacken metals and a great deal of information is available from forums, blogs, websites, magazines, and books.
 
With this knowledge at hand, I decided to conduct a series of trials to determine the best process for blackening metal using Blacken-it. I chose Blacken-it as it seems to be the most commonly used product on Model Ship World, and, perhaps more importantly, I had a supply available. However, the techniques I use here should be applicable to other metal blackening products.
 
Before I outline my tests I should begin with a note on safety:
 
The chemicals used in the blackening process are dangerous. Rubber gloves, safety goggles, and a well-ventilated room (or fume hood) must be used EVERY time you handle the chemicals.
 
The Process:
 
From my research, I learned that producing consistently good results requires seven steps, in this order:
1)      The surface of the metal should be mechanically prepared. This roughens the surface and removes synthetic coatings that are often used to give stock metal a shiny appearance.
2)      The surface of the metal should be treated with an acid pickle to remove any scale or corrosion.
3)      The metal should be cleaned with a solvent to remove organic contaminants such as oils, fingerprints, and other dirt.
4)      The metal is chemically coloured using a diluted blackening agent.
5)      The reaction should be “fixed” or halted, using a neutralizing solution.
6)      The surface of the metal should be buffed to remove excess blackening products and to polish the new surface.
7)      The metal should be coated in a protective agent to prevent corrosion, soiling, and damage (optional).
 
The Equipment:
 
My research indicates that the following chemicals most often produce consistent results:
1)      Muriatic acid (31.4%). This is commonly used to remove scale and corrosion on the surface of the metal.  Most hobbyists and professionals use 1:1 concentration of water and acid. Remember, you should always pour the acid into water, as it can be dangerous to pour water directly into acid. You can purchase muriatic acid in most hardware or pool supply stores.
 
2)      Deionized water. This tip was given to me by Druxy on these forums. I’m convinced that the blotchy, scaly results on my first use of Blacken-it were the result of my use of mineral-laiden bottled water. Dionized water is treated to remove mineral ions which could react with Blacken-it. Use the deionised water for all stages of the blackening process, including rinsing between baths, diluting chemicals, and for neutralization.
 
3)      Acetone (100%). This is a widely used degreasing agent employed to remove finger prints, oils, or other organic coatings which might contaminate the metal. It can be purchased at any hardware store.
 
4)      Baking soda. The final stage of the blackening process should include proper neutralization. A common solution is two table-spoons of baking soda in a cup (250 ml) of warm deionised water. Often, hobbyists will use running tap water to neutralize the reaction with good results; baking soda seems to be preferred by jewelers and instrument makers.
 

Here is a photo of the equipment I used in my tests.
 
The Tests:
 
My trials involved testing two variables: 1) the concentration of Blacken-It (undiluted, 1:1, 5:1, or 10:1), and 2) water neutralization versus baking soda neutralization.
 

The test parts prior to preparation.
 
Step 1: I thoroughly sanded the surface of my brass test parts with 400 grit sandpaper. This is similar to the preparation of any metal part even if it isn’t going to be painted or chemically coloured.
 
Step 2: I buffed the metal with ultrafine steel wool. Be certain to carefully remove any steel wool filings that remain as they can react with the chemicals used in the next stages.
 

The parts after mechanical preparation. 
 
Step 3: Immerse the part in muriatic acid (diluted 1:1 with deionised) water for 30 minutes. You can immerse the parts for longer, but the acid will eventually etch the surface and soften sharp edges and other details if you leave them in too long. You may notice that the pickle will change the colour of the brass or that some corrosion may appear – this is normal and is caused by impurities or inconsistencies in the metal.
 

 
Step 4: Rinse each part by agitating vigorously in a bath of deionized water for at least 10 seconds. Allow to dry thoroughly on a clean paper towel. Change the water in the bath for the next step.
 

 

Allow the parts to dry thoroughly.
 
Step 5: Immerse the parts in an acetone bath for 30 minutes.
 

 
Step 6: Rinse each part by agitating vigorously in a bath of deionized water for at least 10 seconds. Allow to dry thoroughly on a clean paper towel.
 

 

Allow the parts to dry thoroughly.
 
Step 7: Immerse the parts in the Blacken-it solution. Maximize the surface area of the part exposed to the chemical by placing it on end if you can. Gently, without scratching the surface, turn the part every few minutes to ensure all surfaces are exposed equally to the solution. Carefully monitor colour changes, and remove the part when the desired colour is achieved.
 

Different concentrations of Blacken-it. 
 

The parts after 30 seconds. 
 

After five minutes.
 

After 60 minutes (other parts removed when desired colour achieved). 
 
Step 8: Instantly dunk the part in the warm baking soda bath. Agitate vigorously for ten seconds. You will notice that the part will begin to corrode and a blotchy green or red film will cover the surface. Do not worry.
 

 

After a bath in the baking soda solution, the part will appear green (or sometimes red). 
 

Neutralizing with water leaves a cleaner surface (but caution is warranted, see below). 
 
Step 8: Carefully buff the part with a clean soft cloth (an old t-shirt works perfectly). Do not touch the part with your fingers. You will notice that the corrosion products resulting from the neutralizing bath will scrub away.  Buff until all portions of the part have an even colour; continue to buff if you want a shinier surface.
 

Buffing the parts fixed in the baking soda solution removes the green/red coating. 
 

After buffing, all the parts appear roughly similar in colour and finish from a distance (see below for differences). 
 
Step 9: Wait 24 hours to ensure the reaction was effectively neutralized. If “sweating” or pitting is noticed, the reaction was not properly neutralized, and a further rinse may be required. Usually the part can be salvaged by buffing with a soft cloth. Sometimes, it may need to be blackened again.
 
Step 10 (Optional): Spray the parts with a thin acrylic matte coating to protect the surface.
 

I use Krylon Matte Coat.
 
The Trial Results:
 
Undiluted Blacken-It solution:
 
The undiluted solution produced a very dark, but somewhat uneven black surface in about five minutes. Fixing the reaction with baking soda caused a significant amount of corrosion, but it was mostly removed by buffing. 
 

Undiluted immediately after buffing.
 
However, after 24 hours both parts began to sweat, indicating that the chemical reaction had not been neutralized even with a baking soda bath.  This is not unexpected, as the product guidelines indicate that the product is meant to be diluted.
 

Undiluted after 24 hours. 
 
Recommendation: Do not use undiluted solution.
 
1:1 Blacken-it Solution
 
This is the concentration recommended by the manufacturer. After ca. 10 minutes the part reached a deep black, but after neutralization with baking soda solution the surface appeared to be quite blotchy. After 24 hours the edges of the part began to sweat and corrode and the surface appeared pitted.
 

1:1 immediately after buffing. 
 

1:1 after 24 hours. 
 
The water neutralized part had a slightly more even surface, but unfortunately began to sweat after only 24 hours.
 

1:1 unfixed (water neutralization) after 24 hours.   
Recommendation: Do not use 1:1 solution.
 
5:1 Blacken-it Solution
 
The 5:1 solution required approximately 25 minutes to reach a deep black.  Immersion in the baking soda solution initially produced a green corrosion but buffing resulted in an even black surface. The part remained stable after 24 hours (and is still stable a week later).
 

5:1 immediately after buffing.
 
 
5:1 after 24 hours. 
 
The unfixed, water-neutralized part began to corrode at the edges after 24 hours.
 

5:1 unfixed immediately after buffing. 
 

5:1 unfixed after 24 hours. 
 
Recommendation: Works very well in conjunction with a baking soda rinse.
 
10:1 Blacken-it Solution
The 10:1 solution required approximately 60 minutes to reach a dark even black. Immersion in a baking soda rinse produced a slight corrosion, but buffing resulted in a very even and deep black surface (in my opinion better than the 5:1 concentration). The part has remained stable after a week.
 

10:1 immediately after buffing. 
 

10:1 after 24 hours. 
 
Similar results were achieved with the water-only neutralization, and the part remained stable after 24 hours. However, after ca. four days corrosion began to appear at the edges of the part.
 

10:1 unfixed after four days. 
 
Recommendation: The 10:1 solution performed very well in conjunction with a baking soda rinse, and in my opinion produced the best colour and surface.
 
Final thoughts:
 
1)      Fixing the parts by agitation in a warm baking soda bath appears to be a critical step in blackening brass, at least with Blacken-it. Even at lowest concentrations, and with a water-neutralizing rinse, the acidic reaction appeared to continue for some time, especially around edges and in nooks and crannies.  
 
2)      5:1 and 10:1 solutions appear to produce relatively similar results, even though they both require proper neutralization. The 10:1 solution appears to produce a slightly more even and deeper colour. Using Blacken-it at its recommended concentration is a waste of product and results in corrosion even after proper neutralization.
 
3)      Buffing is a critical step in achieving the proper surface appearance.
 
4)      I was able to rejuvenate “sweating” parts by dunking them in a baking soda solution and then buffing. Regardless, faint hints of the corrosion remained.

Your doing an excellent job on such a famous ship, keep the pictures coming.

Thank you!
 
I am working on construction drawings right now, so am hoping it will be released within 8 months. I am working on a few different versions thought (for different markets), which is slowing me down....

You can still get chunks of wood from the Constitution that are about the size you mentioned for $5.50 from the Constitution Museum.  PM me if you need some.

I am interested in buiding a section model of HMS Victory. I would welcome any information dealing with best kit, degree of difficulty, accuracy of model etc. etc.

Just got printed A4 paper sails at the moment, just to check overall fit..
 
 

Save your broken scroll saw blades and mount them upside down in the same handle you use for knives. That gives you a saw for confined spaces. The reverse mounting gives you better control.
Ed

I decided to add the small railing around the opening to the lower deck
and leave off the stern railings (in front of the mizzen mast) that the Corel kit called for.
 
Stanchions pinned to deck.

 
Finished railing


 
Now turning my attention to the channels!
 
Thanks,
 
Frank
 

Working on the Capstan. I drilled out the holes of the Corel Capstan and squared them up.


 
Installed the base for the capstan

 
I removed the large base from the Corel capstan, added the 6 vertical pieces and shaped in-between.


 
Installed the capstan to the base

 
Finished capstan

Good evening everyone.  
A little more to report on this late afternoon here in Florida.  Today I have mounted the Spiritsail topsail; yard.  The directions are in the manual but an awful lot of studying is required to understand them.  There was no problem in placing the parral bead sling as it went very well.  However, trying to understand the making and installation of the two 3mm block halyard was another story for me.  I wish that the kit manufacturer would be more explanatory and provide a few decent diagrams or photos...no such luck!  BUT, that's where MSW shines and Gil and David's sites have come to the rescue once more.  So the outcome is the yard is attached, photos provided, and tomorrow I'll tackle the Spiritsail Yard  (The big one.)  Please remember to put your mouse on the photo for captions....and have a great evening..
Jerry

I have re-built my capstan to make it a bit smaller and improve the workmanship.  I’ve kept the hex shaped design, however.  The result is a definite improvement.  I decided that the scale doesn’t matter as much as the look and feel of the piece.  The rest of the deck furniture is also completed, but not glued.  (I’m afraid the furniture might get in my way during the rigging phase.)  Also, I still have to mount the final 4 guns.  Once that is done, I’ m thinking of having a ‘launch’ party.

Gaetan, it is great to see your workshop space there are always thing you have set up that are things that we often do not pay enough attention to but you do.
 
Michael

The first try to take pictures inside the model ship was with a web cam, low resolution, later changed for another one with a higher resolution. For those who remember MSW 1.0, here is an example, picture 1. Then to control the angle of the camera, tubes were used with adaptor at the end.
With Le Fleuron, new options are explore. First a tripod with a horizontal extension was used. Unfortunately, the height of the extension cannot be adjust, picture 3. I have been reading since few months about moonlight and light stand to hold it. One of the versions is a boom stand. Unlike the ‘’boom tripod’’ the height of the boom light stand can be adjust.
Few words about lamps, first for Greg, here is another one from Burton bought from EBay, picture 4. On the picture 5, there are 2 lamps for which I paid around the same price; one from Dazor halogen type and the other one from Aamsco.   I also want to point another model from Dazor. I think that this LED light model is probably one the best lamp available on the market below $500, http://www.dazor.com/led-desk-lamps.html  The Aamsco lamp was bought used from a place similar to http://www.pemed.com/   in the lights section, they sell used medical gadgets. The Xenon light was also bought from another similar place. Again, if you take the time to look carefully, you can find a used lamp of high quality at the price of an ordinary lamp and the idea to have such a kind of lamp is that you can easily see objects that you wound not see otherwise.
David I would say it is impossible to produce a flawless model. It happens frequently after taking pictures to see details which need to be corrected, so the first one who benefits is me. Often the camera benefits view angle that we do not have.

Finally got those last 3 cannons painted!!! Been working on the Admirals newly acquired used flagship ( 1995 Ford Aerostar mini van ) and had to sneak in the paint job while taking a break from it.... LOL  She says I've done such a nice job on her flagship that I may get a promotion out of it..... LOL

I agree with Brian, I also have the same one plus a bigger one by Roybe that is motor feed and not by hand. But for small stuff you can't beat the one you have, it is well worth the money and will last a life time. That why you never see them for sale on ebay, at least I haven't see them.