NMBROOK

Classy Stuff Nigel ! So when are you going to put the little wee nails in?          
 
All The Beat
 
Eamonn
 
Just Kiddin.. I can see them.. Honest 

A very small update,but probably a major milestone achieved for me                  
The picture shows the forward grating section sized,however the rebates for the anchor ropes need cleaning up after installing all the fastenings.The eagle eyed(enlarging pic essential) will notice I have installed one line of the double nailing.I have found it necessary to install a pair at the same time due to the limit of how small a droplet of cyano I can apply.The holes are 0.3mm apart.I have decided to sand the radius profile to the top rather than risk damaging what amounts to about twenty hours work so far!!This will be done when the grating has been fitted with the combing.The nailing should become more visible then as there are cyano deposits on the surface at the moment.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Update-
Finished the bulwark stanchions& railings - approx.390 individual pieces & a coat of poly applied.Also made the pulley block which goes between the railing at the center of the ship.Also got the gratings made. I will paint the deck flat black under the gratings.If I had paid a little more attention I would have cut the openings in the deck before fastening it down .
 

 

 

 

 
/Mark

A very small update,but probably a major milestone achieved for me                  
The picture shows the forward grating section sized,however the rebates for the anchor ropes need cleaning up after installing all the fastenings.The eagle eyed(enlarging pic essential) will notice I have installed one line of the double nailing.I have found it necessary to install a pair at the same time due to the limit of how small a droplet of cyano I can apply.The holes are 0.3mm apart.I have decided to sand the radius profile to the top rather than risk damaging what amounts to about twenty hours work so far!!This will be done when the grating has been fitted with the combing.The nailing should become more visible then as there are cyano deposits on the surface at the moment.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A very small update,but probably a major milestone achieved for me                  
The picture shows the forward grating section sized,however the rebates for the anchor ropes need cleaning up after installing all the fastenings.The eagle eyed(enlarging pic essential) will notice I have installed one line of the double nailing.I have found it necessary to install a pair at the same time due to the limit of how small a droplet of cyano I can apply.The holes are 0.3mm apart.I have decided to sand the radius profile to the top rather than risk damaging what amounts to about twenty hours work so far!!This will be done when the grating has been fitted with the combing.The nailing should become more visible then as there are cyano deposits on the surface at the moment.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks, Christian. Sorry to have pushed this off topic. 0.1mm is what I can do as well with my Proxxon saw, and I'd expect that from a supplier. My feeler gauges are in 0.1mm increments. That's why I put the column for expected cutting tolerance on the right in my post #232 above to one decimal place, or 0.1mm.
 
The differences from the conversion appear small, but I was worried that over a long distance between bulkheads or for the planking or, as Chuck says, between bulkheads and former, those small differences might make a problem.
 
I have become used to seeing differences of less than 0.1mm on my own model, but that is at 1/64 scale, and it might be less problematic at 1/48. As a complete novice and having no experience at all of how it might play out I thought I'd still ask.
 
However, Chuck has given me the solid advice: "Following the plans will do the trick...when you adjust any wood sizes...think about what you will need to adjust on the plans....but it may not even be needed". And as Nigel has said, in the UK, at least, there is still stuff off the shelves in inches.
 
Apologies to Chuck for posting on his log -- I just thought this discussion might be useful for Europeans and others who work in metric as well and who are intensely interested in this great project.
 
Tony

Deadlights.
 
After staring and thinking... I decided deadlights next.  Not the frames yet but the black background part.   Being a glutton for punishment, I decided to use ebony since I love the look of this wood.  Which begat more contemplation because that stuff is a bit hard to work with.  I think I found an adequate solution.
 
Being fond of quick prototyping in many areas, I made up some deadlights from basswood.  Gave it some thought and decided to make some ebony veneer.  I tried to rip some down to 1/64" (.35mm)....by 1" (25mm) with the thin side coming off the 1" thick billet.  Don't try it.   I got it down to 1/32" (.7mm) before things starting exploding across the shop.  Might have something to do with the blade but I wasn't going to kill a new Thurston blade on an experiment.    Anyway... now I have to clean up fragments everywhere.    I was using the table saw for this.
 
I took the 1/32" inch thick piece that survived and ran it through the thickness sander to get it where I wanted it, glued the prototype deadlights to it and cut them out with the scroll saw.  A bit of sanding and they fit about right.  The pics show a gap but that will be covered by the window framing.  Did I mention I hate macros...   To the naked eye (or even with glasses on) it looks pretty good. I don't feel anything out of place running my fingers around everything, so that's good also.  
 
I'll re-fillet the glue joints on the framing and cut them down to shape.  Also need to get the middle area of the counter fixed up with some wood for the landing of the counter plank ends at the rudder and stern post.  
 
First pic of the basswood and veneer laminated together for the deadlights.  Second one is the installation and..hmm... wet glue.      What the hey.. I'm having fun it's turning out well in my opinion.  I past the point where Version 1.0 met it's end (the stern area) so I'll be carrying on.

Ratlines.

Wow PG,those LED's are SMALL.One method I have seen many times on RC builds,is to cast the lights in clear resin with the LED inside.This could work well with lanterns and you could make many identical pieces with little hassle.
I am certain that you will appreciate the joy of working with Pear compared to some of the other timbers.Yes it is expensive,but is so much nicer to work with and the grain size is much more suitable for modelling scales.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I do not understand why, but one side of the hawseholes were not similar to the other. I had wrong measured, that's absolutely certain for me because I have made one side some day's earlier than the other. Here's a pic there you can see the variety of height.
 

 
The level of the holes at the starboard side is correct. So I closed the holes at the portside and drilled new ones as the same level as of the starboard side.
 

Exceptionally neat planking work Chuck     Not to deviate off topic too much,but Tony the good quality Birch ply desireable for bulkheads sold in the UK is still made in imperial sizes,I have some 1/4 inch in the workshop.The metric stuff is either liteply for RC aeroplanes or rubbish stuff made in China that is full of voids
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

You are off to a great start David I would wait until later to decide on the keel planking,there is a 'knockon' effect if you choose this route which can lead to taking things further than anticipated.If you stick to Panarts colours,none of the ply will remain visible.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Exceptionally neat planking work Chuck     Not to deviate off topic too much,but Tony the good quality Birch ply desireable for bulkheads sold in the UK is still made in imperial sizes,I have some 1/4 inch in the workshop.The metric stuff is either liteply for RC aeroplanes or rubbish stuff made in China that is full of voids
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Exceptionally neat planking work Chuck     Not to deviate off topic too much,but Tony the good quality Birch ply desireable for bulkheads sold in the UK is still made in imperial sizes,I have some 1/4 inch in the workshop.The metric stuff is either liteply for RC aeroplanes or rubbish stuff made in China that is full of voids
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Nigel
 
Just catching up on your great build, she sure is a very special build with so very much detail that I love so very much,                                                              ENJOY
 
Regards   Lawrence                          

Good evening in the MSW world,
 
thanks for the compliments, I am very happy that you like it.
 
As already seen the hull has been built into the shell construction. Robert Volk had described it in his book, and I tried it on the trunk of the ROYAL WILLIAM and am very satisfied. Between the frames have been glued pine wood strips of 5x10 mm. The strips I have had 1 mm above the frames protrude, and then I sanded the shape of the frames. So I got a very solid hull. The hull is also a little heavier, but that does not matter. The second planking pear wood used was 0.5 x 5 mm.
 
@ Nils: All carvings are made ​​by myself. It takes a long time till I've finished, since I work with knives. For a ornamental pillar at the rear I have 20 minutes needed. Then there are some 80 pieces for many hours.
 
Here are some photos from the ROYAL WILLIAM arise. Tomorrow I will make again in the shipyard and take some photos of the carvings.
 
Regards Kay

And even more.

And more !

Good evening from Germany,
 
Thanks to all for the motivating words. Here's a little update. I started to carve the small columns. I need 42 pieces. When i attach it then come new images. I forgot to write a column is 6 mm large or small  ?

Hello folks,
 
I had not much time to build, but now and then I have a little put me in the yard. A few small parts are created and the railing was completed. As always, everything was made ​​of pear wood. Alone 120 pillars of 5 mm long and 3 mm wide for the railing.
More again soon, I promise :-)

Hello folks,

it was a long time nothing from me to hear. Because I had to take a break to build my new yard. Since a few weeks she's done and there will be new pictures of the Royal William. Here are some impressions.
 
Regards Kay

Hello folks, 
 
now a few current impressions of the RW. The starboard side is now ready carved and the front part has been started. The next stages of construction, I will then set restored promptly. Now a lot of fun with the pictures.
 
And also look at the video channel of mine, there's also a film about the RW and other works of art. 
 
http://www.youtube.com/user/kayuwe100
 
Regards Kay

Vielen Dank für Ihre Motivation. 
 
@ KeithW: Ich schaue, ob ich noch Bilder von der Baubeginn haben. Ich habe von Linde Fenster gebaut. 
@ SawdustDave: Schön, dass Sie die Schnitzereien gefallen. Ich habe in der RW geschnitzt die erste Zeit. Die Grundlagen hat mir gezeigt, Willibald Meischl aus Österreich im deutschen Forum www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com. Er ist ein ausgezeichneter Modellbauer und Spezialist in der Royal Navy im 17. Jahrhundert. Und danach habe ich versucht, und versucht und versucht. 
 
In der RW habe ich weiter am Wochenende gebaut. Einige kleine Teile entstanden sind, aber überzeugen Sie sich.

Hallo Leute,
 
Ich habe hier Eine lange Zeit nichts, tut mir leid. Ich hätte Zuerst die Bauarbeiten zu mir nach Hause zu BEENDEN, sonst meine Frau Wäre sauer auf mich zu haben. Ich habe jetzt Begann sterben Galion, Aber ganz Eigene. Alle Artikel anzeigen Werden ohne Maschinen gemacht, Auch reine Handarbeit. Die Streifen 0,5 x 1,00 mm Sind mit Einem Messer geschnitten. Zu DM zeitpunkt, zu schnitzen ich sterben Galionsfigur.
 
Und ich danke IHNEN allen für die lieben Kommentare.
 
Grüße Kay

Und vieles mehr.