NMBROOK

An unusual and interesting story Mark,thank you for posting and the pics
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

No Problem Keith,it is in the pipeline When I do the other half of the deck I will take pics of the steps involved.I will finish this half and scrape it down so everyone will get a good idea of the results.Can't really post a tutorial without a finished example  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought I would post a couple of pics as this thread has popped up again.Having taken on board all the different methods employed by everyone,I feel I have come up with a new alternative .I developed this for my Mordaunt build to be used on both deck hull and keel.The fact the model will be finished in Shelac immediately precludes the use of any type of marker as the alcohol or meths base will dissolve this and cause it to smear.It is time consuming,but I feel gives a thinner sharper line than using black paper.I opted to use black tissue paper as not only is this much thinner,it allows doesn't run the risk of weakening the joint like paper.I do propose to post a tutorial on it as there are some differences to the paper method.The part laid deck in the picture still needs more scraping to the finished level,but gives an impression.The deck is pear with a max plank width of 5.7mm(the planks are tapered)
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just in from work.. off the top of the head she looks like Sir Galahad or the like from the Falklands War..
 
All The Best
 
Eamonn

Okay, here we go again.  Number covered over.
 

 
 
Cheers
Slog

Revisited the slings.  Decided to go with approach illustrated in Petersson.  Small piece of spare walnut wash shaped and a groove cut to accept the top of the sling.  I found that initially cutting a small slot with an exacto blade, and then scraping with a piece of 1mm wire with rough edges to the end was the easiest way to get this done.  The sling now sits much more naturally and doesn't go round any hard edges which makes more practical sense.  Following BEs comment, also decided to place the sling through the forward opening which seems to be the reason for it being there.
 
In the course of this exercise, I realise that I have omitted the sling on the mizzen which already has the topmast shrouds installed.  I'll need to attach that in situ.
 
Unpainted 'thingy' on formast...it must have a name

 
Diminutive bosun inspecting the result and shouting his approval to move on...

Manufacturers put just enough to get a shape.  This helps to keep the cost down.  However over the years I have found that filling in between the bulkeads makes for a better gluing surface.  You can also now easily visualize how the finished hull will look and make symmetrical.
David B

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

NIgel,
 
Your planking work is so excellent. Those wouldn't be English rain drops falling on your deck would they? How well I remember, and miss the four seasons (:-)
 
MIchael

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

No Problem Keith,it is in the pipeline When I do the other half of the deck I will take pics of the steps involved.I will finish this half and scrape it down so everyone will get a good idea of the results.Can't really post a tutorial without a finished example  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought I would post a couple of pics as this thread has popped up again.Having taken on board all the different methods employed by everyone,I feel I have come up with a new alternative .I developed this for my Mordaunt build to be used on both deck hull and keel.The fact the model will be finished in Shelac immediately precludes the use of any type of marker as the alcohol or meths base will dissolve this and cause it to smear.It is time consuming,but I feel gives a thinner sharper line than using black paper.I opted to use black tissue paper as not only is this much thinner,it allows doesn't run the risk of weakening the joint like paper.I do propose to post a tutorial on it as there are some differences to the paper method.The part laid deck in the picture still needs more scraping to the finished level,but gives an impression.The deck is pear with a max plank width of 5.7mm(the planks are tapered)
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

No Problem Keith,it is in the pipeline When I do the other half of the deck I will take pics of the steps involved.I will finish this half and scrape it down so everyone will get a good idea of the results.Can't really post a tutorial without a finished example  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought I would post a couple of pics as this thread has popped up again.Having taken on board all the different methods employed by everyone,I feel I have come up with a new alternative .I developed this for my Mordaunt build to be used on both deck hull and keel.The fact the model will be finished in Shelac immediately precludes the use of any type of marker as the alcohol or meths base will dissolve this and cause it to smear.It is time consuming,but I feel gives a thinner sharper line than using black paper.I opted to use black tissue paper as not only is this much thinner,it allows doesn't run the risk of weakening the joint like paper.I do propose to post a tutorial on it as there are some differences to the paper method.The part laid deck in the picture still needs more scraping to the finished level,but gives an impression.The deck is pear with a max plank width of 5.7mm(the planks are tapered)
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This is one of the most important issues for me as I do the final dimensioning myself.  If I want to leave the planking natural it is important to me (others may have differing opinions of the type of finish they want to achieve) that the wood at least looks that it is has come from the same batch.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Yes Nigel, I have been following your Mordaunt build log and I was impressed by your planking. If you could post a tutorial, I would be really grateful. 

I thought I would post a couple of pics as this thread has popped up again.Having taken on board all the different methods employed by everyone,I feel I have come up with a new alternative .I developed this for my Mordaunt build to be used on both deck hull and keel.The fact the model will be finished in Shelac immediately precludes the use of any type of marker as the alcohol or meths base will dissolve this and cause it to smear.It is time consuming,but I feel gives a thinner sharper line than using black paper.I opted to use black tissue paper as not only is this much thinner,it allows doesn't run the risk of weakening the joint like paper.I do propose to post a tutorial on it as there are some differences to the paper method.The part laid deck in the picture still needs more scraping to the finished level,but gives an impression.The deck is pear with a max plank width of 5.7mm(the planks are tapered)
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Don't be falling asleep in the cinema mate  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
I have come to realize that each of you will most likely build three more ships before I finish this one. (:-)
 
But, here, surprisingly, are the completed cannons. Each of which incorporates fifty-five parts inclusive of the ropes, blocks and the single nail for anchoring the carriage to the deck (drilled a hole at the bottom of one of the four wheels for each carriage). I'm really irritated with my lack of knowledge regarding the axle pin poor locations. Darn, Nigel had the perfect solution, but it was too late...
 
You will note that my first attempt at devising a carriage anchoring method was, in retrospect, silly. Those long nails would not allow the barrels to slip through the deck openings. This did not even occur to me (such a novice) as I was attaching them. I tried shortening the nails, but then I could not locate the tiny pre drilled hole in the deck; uncharted territory for me.
 
So plan "C" should work, a small nail through one of the rear wheels in each carriage. Hmmm. The also really uncharted waters for me will be rigging all of these. (:-). I will use JanV's idea from his build.
 
I promise that I won't post any more canon updates until I have them rigged and mounted! Might be a long while (:-). I so appreciate all of your really super nice comments, so encouraging, thanks for also just looking in.
 
PS: ropes and blocks are from Chuck's at Syren (:-)
 
 
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi Bob.. Photos tomorrow, Promise !!  am off to Maleficent now (that's the new Angelina Jolie flik)
 
Thanks for popping by..
 
Stay Well
 
Eamonn

No, no, take pictures and then pass out.   (always better than passing out and having someone else take pictures... )
The deck looks beautiful.