NMBROOK
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NMBROOK reacted to Dimitris71 in Amerigo Vespucci by Dimitris71 - Mantua - 1:100 scale
Thank you very much Nigel !! :)
Cheers
Dimitris
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NMBROOK reacted to Dimitris71 in Amerigo Vespucci by Dimitris71 - Mantua - 1:100 scale
And some more progress and photos of the bowsprit...
Cheers
Dimitris
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
My wood order arrived and I was able to complete the bulwark planking. As Chuck has done, I did the spirketting in two layers. A nice easy method. After finishing the planking, I painted it, using my last bottle of Polly Scale ATSF red. Still a little left in the bottle.
I also did the skylight. I chose not to use Chuck's mini-kit for the skylight, but to build it from scratch, from the plans. This produced a slightly different skylight from the kit and Chuck's prototype. It was made from boxwood strip with clear plastic "glass". As previously indicated, I am leaving it unpainted.
Next, I will be moving back to the outer hull to do some of the detailing work there.
Bob
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Dimitris71 in Amerigo Vespucci by Dimitris71 - Mantua - 1:100 scale
Well worth the extra effort Dimitris,the railings look perfect.I agree with David,your work is first class
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CharlieZardoz in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Dimitris71 in Amerigo Vespucci by Dimitris71 - Mantua - 1:100 scale
Hello shipmates, Edwin-David B-Nigel (UpstateNY)-Greg-Mike-Slog-Nigel (NMBROOK)-Patrick-Nils-Don , I do thank you all for your likes and nice comments!
I made a mistake and glued the bowsprit first.... As a result the stanchions and rails in the bowsprit area gave me a hard time to install and paint them properly!!! It took me a little longer than I expected..
Kind Regards
Dimitris
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Canute in Wax Caulking?
The planking is actually laid with a gap.The problem with beveling is that you will end up with uneven grooves when you sand the hull smooth.Here is the link to the build,the modelers name is Sergey Kutuzov.(the translator started working again )
https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=8350
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mikeaidanh in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Canute in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from shihawk in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Wax Caulking?
The planking is actually laid with a gap.The problem with beveling is that you will end up with uneven grooves when you sand the hull smooth.Here is the link to the build,the modelers name is Sergey Kutuzov.(the translator started working again )
https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=8350
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Omega1234 in Red Dragon by UpstateNY - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:60
Seriously sharp work Nigel
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to UpstateNY in Red Dragon by UpstateNY - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:60
Hi Nigel and Robb,
Many thanks for your encouraging comments...I can't say I am finding this rigging stuff easy, but things are slowly speeding up as I practice. I am hoping to finish the remaining shrouds this week. Then the sails will be pretty much the last really big job.
As for fall, we are unfortunately past the best of it now up here, but there are still a few lovely patches here and there to enjoy.
Cheers,
Nigel.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Seventynet in Wax Caulking?
The planking is actually laid with a gap.The problem with beveling is that you will end up with uneven grooves when you sand the hull smooth.Here is the link to the build,the modelers name is Sergey Kutuzov.(the translator started working again )
https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=8350
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from GuntherMT in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from dgbot in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Ulises Victoria in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Captain Poison in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from shiloh in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Seventynet in Wax Caulking?
Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Dimitris71 in Amerigo Vespucci by Dimitris71 - Mantua - 1:100 scale
Hello shipmates, I do thank you all for pushing the like button and also for your visits to my log... :)
A small update regarding the bowsprit and stanchions....
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NMBROOK reacted to reklein in Anyone Use A Pin Nailer?
I can see a difficulty in maneuvering your pin nailer around on a crowded deck or even in the nooks and crannys of a hull only maybe not so much as the deck.
I knew somebody would come up with the name of the model builder using that stapleing technique. Bill
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Anyone Use A Pin Nailer?
I have seen a very accomplished builder use one on one of the Russian forums for nailing ply subdecks down.The builder in question is a master carpenter,so probably more a case of convenience rather than necessity.It's Alex Banarov that uses a staple gun when building layers of veneer on a plug as part of his composite hull building technique
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Wasa by marktiedens - FINISHED - Corel - scale 1:75 (Vasa)
Thank you very much Nigel & Rob
Mark
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