bdgiantman2

Awesome job making those notches on the deck beams, this whole thing is turning out terrific!! I am gong to have to copy your process when I get to that step of making notches.
 
Brian

Awesome job making those notches on the deck beams, this whole thing is turning out terrific!! I am gong to have to copy your process when I get to that step of making notches.
 
Brian

Well at last I've finally had some time to do a little on my ship.  So I've started making the rest of the main beams and this is another very wood hungry job.  In fact I was really surprised just how much wood these parts use.  Firstly I cut them out and sanded them all to their curved shape.

I have decided to do the stern beams first and this is where I found a bit of a discrepancy in my build.  The wing transom also acts as the last beam and I found that it sits 1mm too high.  I'm not surprised to be honest as this was one of the first jobs I did when starting this build.  I didn't realise at the time how much photocopies of plans can be out and also looking back I didn't check my measurements often enough........so I'll take the 1mm as a bit of a win.  What it did mean though was I had to gently increase the hight of the beams towards the stern.  Not a problem to do so thats what I did.
 
I also had to cut out the dovetails for the waterway and spirketting into each beam which is a job that I was unsure of how to do accurately.  I considered using the mill but in the end I decided to cut them by hand as this is a skill that do need to improve.  So here's how I did it.
 
Firstly I glued the templated onto the top of the beams and then marked the depth of the dovetails which in my case is 2mm

Next using a blade I cut the square ends of each joint to the required depth

Then I cut the deepest point of the dovetail which is basically stabbing the blade in and then scored the 2mm depth line along its full length.

It was only after doing these cuts that I attempted the diagonal cuts.  I found that I had to be very delicate with this cut as its so easy to split the wood.

Then I cleaned the joint up by using a chisel

And the final result looked like this - I was quite surprised just how nicely they turned out.  Its one of those jobs where its just better not to think about it too much and just get on with it.

So I'm halfway there now and these beams seem to make the hull look much more solid.



And yep it all lines up with the wing transom.......it's just a little high 🤣

So I'll now make a start on the forward beams 👍  I've not yet cut any of the rebates for the hatches and carlings because I want to fire a line straight down the middle using thread once all of the beams are in.  That will give me a really good datum to keep things nice and straight.
 
Cheers Mark
 

Another update. Even though I have yet to remake the keel as don't have money right now to buy more wood plus still needing to fix my saw, I have began the shaping of the hawse timbers for my model of Eagle. This will be a long process in making and shaping these pieces more, especially on the insides.  I am planning to be installing 1/32 inch spacers between the frames of the hawse timbers that have yet to be ordered. But this is where I am as another snow day in Denver.

Another update. Even though I have yet to remake the keel as don't have money right now to buy more wood plus still needing to fix my saw, I have began the shaping of the hawse timbers for my model of Eagle. This will be a long process in making and shaping these pieces more, especially on the insides.  I am planning to be installing 1/32 inch spacers between the frames of the hawse timbers that have yet to be ordered. But this is where I am as another snow day in Denver.

Alrighty, friends! Needing a break from all the political hubbub and thankfully I have been finding answers. With enormous thanks to Mr. Passaro as well as Greg, I have been doing research involving the cant frames and hawse timbers. Plans of the Eagle originally done by A&M University when Dr. Crisman found the wreck off Lake Champlain clearly show two cant frames (the area circled in red in picture 1, Frames Q and R using the plans from Bill Edgin. And there is spacing where Frame S should be that perfectly makes the third cant frame). I have decided to copy the idea by Mr. Passaro used on his Speedwell blog for the cant frame areas. Then, using a compass,  I was able to get the angle of the frames off the keel (the angled lines done in cyan). Then the dark blue box shapes in picture 3 will be the hawse timbers but will need to redo this incorporating the spacer pieces where the anchor cable openings will be.  And for those of you wondering, the green boxes are following the construction Mr. Passaro used in the Winnie project strengthening the cathead pieces with the forward mast bitt frames. Hopefully very soon will be making sawdust again! Peace ✌️

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

Hi Chuck,
 
I finally got caught up looking at all the new information on a PC instead of my phone. The framing is stunning and your description makes it seem so deceptively easy. Much easier than scratch but still a lot of care and patience is required to produce results like yours. I really like the last set of windows too.

Yes, Rusty. I totally agree. This is something I've been saying all along. Laser cutting is just the first step. Afterwards, much care is needed in order to get results like the ones seen in Chuck's builds. Care and Patience will always yield a better result.

That book (assuming does get written), combined with the book by Bernard Froliche would be the ultimate guiding sources bundle for all model ship building especially prior to the 1830s when more metal became increasingly in use.

That book (assuming does get written), combined with the book by Bernard Froliche would be the ultimate guiding sources bundle for all model ship building especially prior to the 1830s when more metal became increasingly in use.

That book (assuming does get written), combined with the book by Bernard Froliche would be the ultimate guiding sources bundle for all model ship building especially prior to the 1830s when more metal became increasingly in use.

That book (assuming does get written), combined with the book by Bernard Froliche would be the ultimate guiding sources bundle for all model ship building especially prior to the 1830s when more metal became increasingly in use.

That book (assuming does get written), combined with the book by Bernard Froliche would be the ultimate guiding sources bundle for all model ship building especially prior to the 1830s when more metal became increasingly in use.

That book (assuming does get written), combined with the book by Bernard Froliche would be the ultimate guiding sources bundle for all model ship building especially prior to the 1830s when more metal became increasingly in use.

That book (assuming does get written), combined with the book by Bernard Froliche would be the ultimate guiding sources bundle for all model ship building especially prior to the 1830s when more metal became increasingly in use.

I’d have to make an Autopay account to the swear jar.

On my my my. That is soooo small and soooo tempting. I'd really have to give it a go if it becomes available. The swear jar would get a hefty donation too!

The 3/32 inch scale model of Speedwell could be very tempting, I also have a possible eye on the 1/48 scale model as already provided plans for in the books of the ship.

Another update. Even though I have yet to remake the keel as don't have money right now to buy more wood plus still needing to fix my saw, I have began the shaping of the hawse timbers for my model of Eagle. This will be a long process in making and shaping these pieces more, especially on the insides.  I am planning to be installing 1/32 inch spacers between the frames of the hawse timbers that have yet to be ordered. But this is where I am as another snow day in Denver.

The 3/32 inch scale model of Speedwell could be very tempting, I also have a possible eye on the 1/48 scale model as already provided plans for in the books of the ship.

Just a small update on the progress.  Getting into the stern framing now.   But first I needed to add 3 more aft cant frames under the quarter piece.
 
The cant frames are self explanatory and the same as the others.    Just sand off the char and add them.  But before I added them under the quarter piece I had to glue a small block on the inside of the quarter piece on both sides.   The block is laser cut and matches the shape of the bottom of the quarter piece.   This makes the area thicker which we will need when we fair the inboard side.   This will all be covered up on the inboard side so it wont show.  It will be planked over on the inboard side.
 

The small blocks will be faired along with the inboard frames when we do that much later.  But it is probably a good idea to start that now and do a little preliminary removal of material.  Its just easier to do at this point.   I did it after gluing them in but they could just as easily be shaped before you glue them in.
 

 
Now the stern framing starts.   First up are the fashion pieces.  These are very very complex.   This hull has a square tuck much like the Cheerful.   So to simplify things it will be made in two layers.   Only the first layer will be added at this time.  They are laser cut for you and 5/32" thick.   There are laser etched lines on both sides.   You can see how I faired the shape into it following the etched reference line.   The two ends also need to be tapered slightly.  I am talking very slight tapering to sit against the deadwood and under the wing transom.   The other side of the piece has those etched reference lines.  Just sand in the bevel to match on both ends.  Then give it a test fit.
 


 
I found it easier to test fit these while the hull was upside down.  They will need to be 1/8" away from the stern post as mentioned.   This was easy enough to do.   I just drew a reference line in pencil.  I used a 1/8" wide strip and held it against the stern post and just drew the line on the deadwood.
 

When test fitting these the bottom will sit along the curved edge on the deadwood.   Right along the bearding line.  Try and get a nice clean and tight fit there.   The top end will fit under the bottom of the wing transom.   The aft edge is flush with the same on the wing transom.  Then I faired them along with those last three cant frames I added.  Its all coming together now.  Just a bit more framing to go.   
 
Next up will be that last aft cant frame.  It actually sits against the fashion piece we just added.  This is why that needed to be added first.  Then a small cant filler will be added which essentially finishes up all the hull framing.   After that there are the stern frames and a few odds and ends to finish it all up.
 

 
 
 

Nobody is getting rich selling this stuff unfortunately...but its a living!!!
 
Beats sitting behind a desk though....I prefer sitting in front of a workbench,  LOL.
 
So the quarter pieces are not that easy Greg!!!  Ok yes they are...
 
Basically there are two really not so hard things you must do to this piece before you glue it on the model.
 
First....sand a bevel onto the inboard side.   Not the outboard side with the laser etched reference lines.....the inboard side.   If you bevel the outboard side side the piece will be ruined.
 

Then step 2.....on the outboard side you have to bevel a few parts.   The two tabs that sit against the last aft cant frame.   And then the aft side of the piece.   As shown below.
 

 
Also note the reference marks for your fixed block and where the other aft cant frames will fall along the bottom edge.
 
Then glue it on...thats it.   The two tabs are flush with the outboard face of the cant frames.  This means you will need to fair the outboard side of the hull before you add these.  It wont work if you dont.  At least not as well.
 
Here are photos of both quarter pieces on the model.  They have been faired on the outboard side as well although not completely.   I will wait for those last few aft cant frames.
 

 

 
And I couldnt resist just test fitting the transom piece.  We wont need this for a while but if my design skills and concept didnt work for the hull framing and this didnt fit....then it would be firewood.   But lucky me it fit just perfectly.   The hull has ended up the perfect width and shape.
 
I can finish up the framing with confidence.  
 

LOL!  I've been waiting all day for this comment!

Greg is unhappy with you for turning an extremely difficult area of the model into a "fun" diversion. A lot of innocent boxwood pieces sacrificed their lives in order for me to successfully frame that area. And then there was the errant elbow strike elbow...
 
Seriously, brilliant work Chuck!