bdgiantman2

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

I think full-size cabinetmakers would be jealous of what you have been able to accomplish with the binnacle and belfry. Not to mention the ship's wheel!

Very brief update: it's begun!

Beautiful work.

Hello MSW!!!
Sheesh, feel like I have to re-introduce myself. It's been so long!!!
Sometimes In our chosen hobby, we can lose the breeze in our sails once in a while.
 
It's usually something external that reignites the modelling itch. Received the latest Nautical Research Journal this week.
That woke it up!!!!
One of the promises to myself.... get this, and my Titanic build, up to date. 
 
Both masts have been stepped and glued in place.

I tried my best to get the rake just right.
Albeit not perfect, but not bad. 

I used a white glue. It gave me the most time to play with the angle and the like before it set in.
For some reason I don't have a pic of the glue dry, but it is barely visible.

Per the plans. 
The angle of the masts is roughly 11 degrees for the Main and 7 for the Fore.
I did the best I could. 

One the masts were set in and secure. I continued with setting the "internal" ropes. Those being ropes that terminate at the Fife rail. 
I imagine it would be a beast to get to these with shrouds already set in.
The Fore Topsail yard lifts were first. Secured with blocks and eyebolts already in the deck. 

Rinse and repeat, both sides are done.
I can then move forward with setting other ropes to the fife rail.
All rope is from Syren. I have both the old stock of Syren rope and some newer Ultra.
The Ultra rope is beautiful, but being a stubborn New Englander, waste not want not. The older stock will get weaved in. 

Once my "inner" rigging is done on the Fore mast. I want to move on to the Bowsprit.
Get that rigged in and work my way fore to stern setting ropes. 

Glad to be back!!!
 
Tom E 
 

I am going to follow this build, this ought to be very interesting. Have that book by Phillip Reed, as well as that same scroll saw. Amazing the details Mr. Reed was able to build into his models.
 
Brian D

I am going to follow this build, this ought to be very interesting. Have that book by Phillip Reed, as well as that same scroll saw. Amazing the details Mr. Reed was able to build into his models.
 
Brian D

I am going to follow this build, this ought to be very interesting. Have that book by Phillip Reed, as well as that same scroll saw. Amazing the details Mr. Reed was able to build into his models.
 
Brian D

I now have five frames completed along with scratch built sweep ports.
 
I added Yellow Cedar above the ports as filler pieces which extend to the sheer. To save some milling operations, that will be hidden later, I used Chuck's 5/32" laser cut top timbers. This nonuniform area will be covered up later with the upper hull planking. The five frames are mostly faired and the outer faces sanded close to the half breadth. Of course, there will be more work needed for final fairing which includes getting the sheer to a width of 5/32”.

The height gauge makes it much easier to find the proper height of the sweep port. Measurements for this are taken directly from the plan. The 4.66" height is well within my .005" margin of error.

I still need to reverse the tilt table on the mill in order to make it possible to do a scarph joint on one side of those long one piece floors. The setup doesn't take all that long to do, though I wouldn't want to make the change for every frame. With that in mind, I'm going to work the frames in larger groups rather than individually.
 
Mike

I added the keelson today.  This is made up from 4 laser cut lengths.   There are probably many ways to attack this.  But I decided to assemble all 4 pieces first.  There are scarph joints between each length.   Then I sanded it clean of laser char.   It may be hard to see below but I also drew a reference line down the center of the keelson.   This is where the bolts will go.  It was easier to mark the center of this 3/8" wide keelson now instead of when its on the model.  I used a compass opened to 3/16" with a pencil on one side.  I handy tool to have around.
 


I test fit it on the model.  The shape is so specific to each model after inboard that yes I had to tweak the bottom of the keelson and the bottom of the hull inboard to get a good fit in places.  I used various riflers and sanding sticks to match the curve and shape of the keelson as closely as possible.  Then the bolts were added.  I used 30 pound black fishing line.   One bolt goes every other frame.  This is except for the scarph joints which get two bolts.  Now the inboard side of the hull is completed for now.  Its nice and clean.   I can now return to planking the outboard side of the hull.
 

@bdgiantman2
Hello Brian,
the ropes are made of silk. The two ends were glued with superglue at the point marked in yellow. In order to create the largest possible contact surface for the glue, I cut off the two ends at an angle with a scalpel.
Thank you for the interest.

Looking at the first picture in Post 2144 of that rope ring, is it just me being ignorant or are you gluing and soldering your ropes?  If I am wrong, can you do another demo of how you connect your ropes?? Thank you so much and your blog has been a library and treasure trove.
 
Brian D

Looking at the first picture in Post 2144 of that rope ring, is it just me being ignorant or are you gluing and soldering your ropes?  If I am wrong, can you do another demo of how you connect your ropes?? Thank you so much and your blog has been a library and treasure trove.
 
Brian D

Looking at the first picture in Post 2144 of that rope ring, is it just me being ignorant or are you gluing and soldering your ropes?  If I am wrong, can you do another demo of how you connect your ropes?? Thank you so much and your blog has been a library and treasure trove.
 
Brian D

Looking at the first picture in Post 2144 of that rope ring, is it just me being ignorant or are you gluing and soldering your ropes?  If I am wrong, can you do another demo of how you connect your ropes?? Thank you so much and your blog has been a library and treasure trove.
 
Brian D

Looking at the first picture in Post 2144 of that rope ring, is it just me being ignorant or are you gluing and soldering your ropes?  If I am wrong, can you do another demo of how you connect your ropes?? Thank you so much and your blog has been a library and treasure trove.
 
Brian D

You can do it either way, honestly, but you actually want to work the sanding stick in the direction that goes with the grain of the wood. You go against the grain of the wood and the surface will look all scratched up.

You can do it either way, honestly, but you actually want to work the sanding stick in the direction that goes with the grain of the wood. You go against the grain of the wood and the surface will look all scratched up.

Wow, it looks so nice with the top jigs removed. 

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

I found this link: https://forum.game-labs.net/topic/6373-endymion-1797-the-fastest-ship-in-the-rn-with-plans/