bdgiantman2

The best and most detailed rigging I have ever seen on a model!!!    😃 👍
 

I apologize in advance that didn't start this blog sooner of this project. 
 
While I continue doing research around my work schedule as well as cutting pieces at a pace slower than evolution to make the laminate frames for Brig Eagle,  I am undertaking a fighter-jet kit of interest I found online. This jet is the N/AW A-10B Warthog by Trumpeter, the experimental two-seat model that enabled the warthog to excel in night aviation attacks as well as adverse weather. This plane was launched in 1979, the same year that I was born. I have largely found in my personal opinions that the two-seat models of many American fighters are way more attractive than the single-seat usually in service in the military. Unfortunately only one model of this aircraft ever came off of the assembly line and never saw squadron service.
 
Overall, my opinion of this kit is good quality of parts except for cockpit details considering that this kit was made in China. There are these lame decals suggested that don't even resemble the real planes cockpits at all. For a kit of this scale I have come to expect better details especially of cockpits. Thankfully, after conducting research, I was able to come across quality photo-etch brass detailing of front cockpit and will kit-bash the back-seat. Also purchasable are fuselage detail pieces as well as a kit for detailing the weapons. Included are two pictures that someone took of the back-seat of real jet when it got downgraded from test aircraft at Edwards Airforce Base to museum exhibit status. The instruction manual has good illustrations of the construction and even included a short history of real plane with some pictures.  Also of interest with this kit are metal landing gears  as well as two high-detail resin engines.
 
Again, even though the real jet never saw active service in any squadrons,  I plan to take artistic license and display her with a squadron. The chosen group is Eielson's Ice Hawgs stationed in Fairbanks, Alaska. Fully armed, this plane is definitely a bad-*** bird wouldn't want to mess around with. 
 
The wing, tail assembly, and engine casings are not currently glued to the fuselage, I just have them placed to show how big this kit is.

I apologize in advance that didn't start this blog sooner of this project. 
 
While I continue doing research around my work schedule as well as cutting pieces at a pace slower than evolution to make the laminate frames for Brig Eagle,  I am undertaking a fighter-jet kit of interest I found online. This jet is the N/AW A-10B Warthog by Trumpeter, the experimental two-seat model that enabled the warthog to excel in night aviation attacks as well as adverse weather. This plane was launched in 1979, the same year that I was born. I have largely found in my personal opinions that the two-seat models of many American fighters are way more attractive than the single-seat usually in service in the military. Unfortunately only one model of this aircraft ever came off of the assembly line and never saw squadron service.
 
Overall, my opinion of this kit is good quality of parts except for cockpit details considering that this kit was made in China. There are these lame decals suggested that don't even resemble the real planes cockpits at all. For a kit of this scale I have come to expect better details especially of cockpits. Thankfully, after conducting research, I was able to come across quality photo-etch brass detailing of front cockpit and will kit-bash the back-seat. Also purchasable are fuselage detail pieces as well as a kit for detailing the weapons. Included are two pictures that someone took of the back-seat of real jet when it got downgraded from test aircraft at Edwards Airforce Base to museum exhibit status. The instruction manual has good illustrations of the construction and even included a short history of real plane with some pictures.  Also of interest with this kit are metal landing gears  as well as two high-detail resin engines.
 
Again, even though the real jet never saw active service in any squadrons,  I plan to take artistic license and display her with a squadron. The chosen group is Eielson's Ice Hawgs stationed in Fairbanks, Alaska. Fully armed, this plane is definitely a bad-*** bird wouldn't want to mess around with. 
 
The wing, tail assembly, and engine casings are not currently glued to the fuselage, I just have them placed to show how big this kit is.

I apologize in advance that didn't start this blog sooner of this project. 
 
While I continue doing research around my work schedule as well as cutting pieces at a pace slower than evolution to make the laminate frames for Brig Eagle,  I am undertaking a fighter-jet kit of interest I found online. This jet is the N/AW A-10B Warthog by Trumpeter, the experimental two-seat model that enabled the warthog to excel in night aviation attacks as well as adverse weather. This plane was launched in 1979, the same year that I was born. I have largely found in my personal opinions that the two-seat models of many American fighters are way more attractive than the single-seat usually in service in the military. Unfortunately only one model of this aircraft ever came off of the assembly line and never saw squadron service.
 
Overall, my opinion of this kit is good quality of parts except for cockpit details considering that this kit was made in China. There are these lame decals suggested that don't even resemble the real planes cockpits at all. For a kit of this scale I have come to expect better details especially of cockpits. Thankfully, after conducting research, I was able to come across quality photo-etch brass detailing of front cockpit and will kit-bash the back-seat. Also purchasable are fuselage detail pieces as well as a kit for detailing the weapons. Included are two pictures that someone took of the back-seat of real jet when it got downgraded from test aircraft at Edwards Airforce Base to museum exhibit status. The instruction manual has good illustrations of the construction and even included a short history of real plane with some pictures.  Also of interest with this kit are metal landing gears  as well as two high-detail resin engines.
 
Again, even though the real jet never saw active service in any squadrons,  I plan to take artistic license and display her with a squadron. The chosen group is Eielson's Ice Hawgs stationed in Fairbanks, Alaska. Fully armed, this plane is definitely a bad-*** bird wouldn't want to mess around with. 
 
The wing, tail assembly, and engine casings are not currently glued to the fuselage, I just have them placed to show how big this kit is.

I apologize in advance that didn't start this blog sooner of this project. 
 
While I continue doing research around my work schedule as well as cutting pieces at a pace slower than evolution to make the laminate frames for Brig Eagle,  I am undertaking a fighter-jet kit of interest I found online. This jet is the N/AW A-10B Warthog by Trumpeter, the experimental two-seat model that enabled the warthog to excel in night aviation attacks as well as adverse weather. This plane was launched in 1979, the same year that I was born. I have largely found in my personal opinions that the two-seat models of many American fighters are way more attractive than the single-seat usually in service in the military. Unfortunately only one model of this aircraft ever came off of the assembly line and never saw squadron service.
 
Overall, my opinion of this kit is good quality of parts except for cockpit details considering that this kit was made in China. There are these lame decals suggested that don't even resemble the real planes cockpits at all. For a kit of this scale I have come to expect better details especially of cockpits. Thankfully, after conducting research, I was able to come across quality photo-etch brass detailing of front cockpit and will kit-bash the back-seat. Also purchasable are fuselage detail pieces as well as a kit for detailing the weapons. Included are two pictures that someone took of the back-seat of real jet when it got downgraded from test aircraft at Edwards Airforce Base to museum exhibit status. The instruction manual has good illustrations of the construction and even included a short history of real plane with some pictures.  Also of interest with this kit are metal landing gears  as well as two high-detail resin engines.
 
Again, even though the real jet never saw active service in any squadrons,  I plan to take artistic license and display her with a squadron. The chosen group is Eielson's Ice Hawgs stationed in Fairbanks, Alaska. Fully armed, this plane is definitely a bad-*** bird wouldn't want to mess around with. 
 
The wing, tail assembly, and engine casings are not currently glued to the fuselage, I just have them placed to show how big this kit is.

I apologize in advance that didn't start this blog sooner of this project. 
 
While I continue doing research around my work schedule as well as cutting pieces at a pace slower than evolution to make the laminate frames for Brig Eagle,  I am undertaking a fighter-jet kit of interest I found online. This jet is the N/AW A-10B Warthog by Trumpeter, the experimental two-seat model that enabled the warthog to excel in night aviation attacks as well as adverse weather. This plane was launched in 1979, the same year that I was born. I have largely found in my personal opinions that the two-seat models of many American fighters are way more attractive than the single-seat usually in service in the military. Unfortunately only one model of this aircraft ever came off of the assembly line and never saw squadron service.
 
Overall, my opinion of this kit is good quality of parts except for cockpit details considering that this kit was made in China. There are these lame decals suggested that don't even resemble the real planes cockpits at all. For a kit of this scale I have come to expect better details especially of cockpits. Thankfully, after conducting research, I was able to come across quality photo-etch brass detailing of front cockpit and will kit-bash the back-seat. Also purchasable are fuselage detail pieces as well as a kit for detailing the weapons. Included are two pictures that someone took of the back-seat of real jet when it got downgraded from test aircraft at Edwards Airforce Base to museum exhibit status. The instruction manual has good illustrations of the construction and even included a short history of real plane with some pictures.  Also of interest with this kit are metal landing gears  as well as two high-detail resin engines.
 
Again, even though the real jet never saw active service in any squadrons,  I plan to take artistic license and display her with a squadron. The chosen group is Eielson's Ice Hawgs stationed in Fairbanks, Alaska. Fully armed, this plane is definitely a bad-*** bird wouldn't want to mess around with. 
 
The wing, tail assembly, and engine casings are not currently glued to the fuselage, I just have them placed to show how big this kit is.

I still have a lot more work to do on chapter 11. Here is generally where I am at as of today. Both main and mizzen channels are done (almost). Notice that the forward two chainplates are not attached to the hull. I'm going to remove that moulding where the second ladder goes. This will make it easier to both install it as well as shape the moulding that goes around it. All of the stools are in.

Keeping things Parallel


First attempt at chesstrees

 

Mike

So a quick recap...Proceeding with headwork.
 
First....
 
Use the handy jig I showed you to mark the locations of the first 3 head timbers.
 

 
Second...
 
Build the two main head rails as I described in length.   Test these on the model but dont glue them in position.  You will need to test them and retest them and retest them as you shape the head timbers next.
 

 
Third....shape and test your head timbers...
 
Rubber cement is your friend.  You will need to temporarily position all of these elements while shaping the head timbers.  Rubber cement works well for this and is easily removed by rubbing it off with your fingers.
 
Here is a photo of the three head timbers ready for shaping.  They are laser cut and etched on both sides.  There are laser etched reference marks on both sides to help you shape them...In the photo below you can see both sides of each timber with their etched reference lines.
 
Start by sanding both sides clean and dusting them off to reveal the etched lines more clearly.  Then start shaping the first, smaller head timber.  All three are shaped in the same way.
 

 
Begin by sanding the bevels indicated on the top and bottom of the head timber.  This is needed to establish the correct slope (for and aft) so you can slide this first head timber over the stem knee and test it.   You can go ahead and test it.  You may well be adjusting the angles from time to time as we proceed through all three head timbers.  If you have to widen or deepen the slot in the head timber so it sits directly down onto the stem and hair brackets you can do that.  This photo shows the top and bottom beveled to the reference line.
 

Next, Sand/carve the sides of the head timber up to the reference line.  Keep the surface or face of the head timber flat when doing so.  This is needed so the cover boards will sit in position neatly later on.  
 

Next...the dreaded notches for the lower rail...
 
These are etched onto both sides.  But they are not in the same position.   To make filing this notch easier, and so you get a sense of the crazy angle you will need...go ahead and draw the width of the notch along the side of the head timber.  Basically connect them with a reference line using the laser etched notches on both sides with a pencil.   See below.  Does this make sense???
 

This notch is not only angled but it is deeper on one side than the other to accommodate the angle of the lower rail.  If not for anything else, this will help you gain an understanding of the complexity of these rails.  Many compound angles exist.  You may want to make them slightly wider/deeper as the lower rail is 1/16" thick.   Making them slightly wider gives you some wiggle room on the lower rail without having to make these notches super huge.   That is usually the case on most kits.   It looks horrible.  See below, one side is completed.
 
Once finished with it, sand off any remaining laser char and paint the entire head timber black.   Test it on the model and also test the main rail on top of it.  Adjust the angles a bit if needed.  Proceed with the same process on the two remaining head timbers. Test and retest and retest.....really.
 
 
My head timbers started out perfectly vertical when testing them on the model but as I started to test the second and third head timber these were adjusted.  There are a lot of optical illusions which you will find yourself compensating for.   Just keep testing until all three head timbers fit while the main rails sits properly on top of them.  What you see below is just a test fitting.   Nothing is glued into position yet.  
 
Yes I did go ahead and make the lower rail at this time also.  You can do that.  Its just a matter of sanding off the char and rounding off the outside edges.   I also ran some sandpaper down the fancy grooves to clean them up a bit.  It removed some of the char from the laser etching and enhanced the fancy molding appearance.
 

 
A few notations.....
 
Note: The top, bottom edges and back side of the lower rail will be painted black as well.   But do a lot testing first.   The lower rail is cut slightly longer than needed so you can adjust to fit you model.
 
Note:  The aft side of the lower rail is beveled to sit flush against the hull.
 
Note:  The top of the stem has been sanded down flush with the hairbracket scroll and main rail.  We will be gluing a bolster here soon.
 
Note:  The lower rail sits comfortably in the notches of each head timber but the notches are NOT too big.  The lower rail does indeed sit in those notches deep enough that the cover boards will sit flat on the outside face of each head timber.  If they stick out and stand proud you should adjust your notches to suit. 
 
Note:  that the outside faces of each head timber as tested above are NOT flush with the bottom edge of main rail.   They need to be inset a bit to accommodate the cover boards we will add shortly.  Otherwise the cover boards will stick out and sand proud of the main rail which is not correct.
 
When you are 100% satisfied with the test fitting of all these elements, you can paint it all as described.  The inside of the head work is all black.  Fill any gaps and glue everything into position permanently.
 
Cover boards and bolster below.

 
Thats it....nothing to it....
 
Here is a shot of the inside of the head work so far.  Everything painted black and neat and tidy.   Note the black laser cut bolster now glued to the front/top of the head rails.  It is laserboard.  Just trim it if you need to so it fits and glue it on top.   It will hide all of those joints if they didnt meet your standards so no worries there.
 

You can even sand the interior sides of the head timbers at this point to bevel them if you want and make them cleaner then touch up the black paint.   Most of that wont be seen however under the head gratings.
 
The cover boards are laser cut for you and have a laser etched and recessed center.  They are very thin and should be glued onto the outside faces of the head timbers.  Make any adjustments before gluing them on.  The friezes were glued onto them before they were positioned permanently.  Note how they are finally flush with the outside lower edge of the main rail which is what you are shooting for.
 

 
Yes you will have plenty of paint touch up as I now have.  I recommend that you remove the figurehead and swivel guns while doing this work.  Examine the rails and headwork at multiple angles as you proceed and make any adjustments....no matter how small.  Just take you time.   I know its a bit involved and not like any other kit on the market but then again you wont see results like this on any other kit on the market.   You will have questions trust me so feel free to ask when you get to these.
 
Yes spare parts for these elements will be available.  Go slow and be methodical.   Test a lot.  Ask a lot of questions...and study....really study the images of the contemporary model.  I know I may have forgotten some details but we will address them all as time goes by.
 

 Next the cathead support knee and connecting with the lower rail.
 

Work of art! Will be almost impossible to distinguish this as a kit next to a scratch built model.

Hi, and thanks to all
 
 

The earliest carronades were mounted on the 'outside principle' with the pivot point outside the port. Also, early carronades did not have a muzzle extension to direct blast away from spreading to rigging. Photos are of carronades for Comet, 1783. I did quite a bit of research on these when I built that model.

Great story, Brian! What an amazing experience, glad that you and your wife were able to reach out to those men at the museum like that and go behind the scenes. I am a little jealous, I confess -- LOL.
 
Question for you: Looking at the pictures provided of the grapeshot, I am guessing that they are eighteen inches to two feet in length and probably 6-8 inches in diameter??
 
Keep up this amazing model, you are doing a very accurate job and I enjoy following this thread.
 
Brian D.

Brian
It might be that thin air in the mile high city as much as the hour of the day. 😁
Allan

Thank you again for the information, Allan.  I don't know why I mentioned Google in my last response, although I am certain that I did try them in the past. Also, this is what I get responding over my cellphone later at night than I ought to be. This web site is super helpful, and so many skilled ship builders.

Thanks,  Allan. I'll have to re-check Google images.  Last time I recall doing this, most to all of the pictures were model parts above deck only.  Maybe I did a bad search......  .

I have a question involving the deck pumps.  Am building a model of Brig Eagle 1814, the ship has two Elm Pumps. I can't tell from the plans if the tubes (not sure this is the correct term for them) for the pumps are vertically straight or if there is a slight tilt to them away from the keel. I see many diagrams of the chain pumps which clearly have a tilt to the tubes. I have the books by Wolfram zu Mondfeld and Bernard Frolich, but I didn't see specific answers about regular elm pumps. 
 
Thank you for your help.
 
Brian D

I have a question involving the deck pumps.  Am building a model of Brig Eagle 1814, the ship has two Elm Pumps. I can't tell from the plans if the tubes (not sure this is the correct term for them) for the pumps are vertically straight or if there is a slight tilt to them away from the keel. I see many diagrams of the chain pumps which clearly have a tilt to the tubes. I have the books by Wolfram zu Mondfeld and Bernard Frolich, but I didn't see specific answers about regular elm pumps. 
 
Thank you for your help.
 
Brian D

I have just started rigging my model and I am certain that seizing is much more difficult on a model than in real life. What is working for me is using a small pinpoint of CA to secure the first seizing wrap (away from the throat). Then the seizing is wetted, wrapped around the rope towards the throat several times under tension, passed through the throat then wrapped twice between the lines. A small blob of white glue is placed around the seizing and allowed to dry. After it dries the edges are trimmed. Still working on splicing served line but at least I have the seizing down. I'll post some photos in a day or so as it is much easier to do than describe.

Truly a thing of beauty - even a perfectionist like you must be delighted at your achievements. The sweeping lines of those planks really enhance the beautiful shape of the hull.
 
We're also cruising there in late July, early August. I'm taking a saw to bag me some of that cedar😁

Thanks Chuck! Great to hear! Glad you’re planning on continuing your support of us for many years to come. I retired 7 years ago after 32 years with my company. Those years passed WAY FASTER than I originally thought they would. You’ve been a tremendous resource for me after being away from model making for decades. Thank you for all you do!!!

Alaskan yellow cedar.

Hi everyone, I started working on furled sails on my Badger build and posted a mini summary on my Badger build log.  At the suggestion of a couple of friends, I thought it might be helpful to repost my technique here on this forum, instead of it possibly being buried in my build log.
 
Here are the pictures of the topgallant yards, which still can use a bit of tweezer work before being set with diluted PVA.  I think there's some room for improvement, but overall I was pleased with how the furled sails are coming out.  I'd love to hear of other techniques or possible suggestions for enhancements.    Thanks!
 
 
 

Johnhoward (Part 2),
 
I was able to get pictures inside the museum as well.
 
For your viewing pleasure.
 
Ships Bell. I took these from all angles so that I can get my representation correct. One of the cool stories of the bell is that when it was discovered during the salvage, an air bubble trapped in it from 1862 was released and travelled to the surface.






 
Original cannon carriage with a fiberglass mock up of a burst barrel.


 
Deck Howitzer from the USS Pittsburgh. The Cairo's Howitzer was removed shortly before Cdr. Selfridge took command, so it was not on board at the time of its sinking.


 
Many of the artifacts on display in the museum.



 
One of the copper clad lanterns used in the powder magazine.










 
Original wood fabric and display model.


Cutaway model.



 
Cairo's Bilge pump.

 
One of my favorites. This painting hangs behind the front desk of the museum. I am not sure of the artist, but what intrigued me was the frame was made from some of the original wood taken from the Cairo.

 
-Brian

Great story, Brian! What an amazing experience, glad that you and your wife were able to reach out to those men at the museum like that and go behind the scenes. I am a little jealous, I confess -- LOL.
 
Question for you: Looking at the pictures provided of the grapeshot, I am guessing that they are eighteen inches to two feet in length and probably 6-8 inches in diameter??
 
Keep up this amazing model, you are doing a very accurate job and I enjoy following this thread.
 
Brian D.

Mark, these memories will definitely last a lifetime. I am right there with you. With so many people out there trying to to erase certain parts of our history (apologies if that sounded political) it would be a shame if this piece suffered that fate. It's is a beautiful exhibit, one that every one should see.
 
Keith, love what you did there with the pun. 😁 I still have a hard time believing my luck or fate, whichever way you want to look at it. I just look back and think that I wasn't even going to go back into the museum to see if Ray was there on the second day or not, and to run into him as we were leaving. It was just meant to be. The funny thing is that the day before, I was telling my wife, as we were standing at the stern of the ship, how much I would love to get down there and take some up close pictures.
 
The pieces are a true treasure. They will go along nicely with the Adm. Selfridge signature that you guided me to, to go along with my display. I just need to figure out how I am going to fit it all in and show it properly.
 
Snug Harbor Johnny, That is some very interesting information. I had not heard of the Hunley being made from a converted boiler tube, but it does make sense. The Hunley was definitely cramped for space. Not sure if that would be on my list for a scratch build. I have several projects in the works once my Cairo is completed. But you neve know, it would be an interesting build.
 
Eric, I was more than happy to share my experience, especially with those that can truly appreciate it. I know what you mean about placing a face to a person. I took over a new group with my company back in September last year. We are a 100% work remote group and I have yet to see what anyone on my team looks like. I like knowing what the person on the other end of the line looks like. Most of us on MSW know each other by what our hands look like, since that is usually all we get to see of them. 😁 I miss following your builds, hopefully you can recover soon and get back to building.
 
Pat, My pleasure. I do hope that they are able to do something soon to help protect it. I found an old picture that I had taken on my first visit to the Cairo, shortly after the exhibit opened in 1984. I did a side by side stare and compare to a picture I took this weekend. Over the past 38 years, there has been a noticeable change in the original fabric, especially on the more exposed areas. Although they did try and prolong the decay by building the new "Tent" structure that you see today, it still needs to be in a controlled environment to prevent any further damage.
 
Roger, Thank you. I am sure I made his day. My wife said that he was just as excited to talk about the boat as was seeing it. The great thing about it was that all I asked him for was to look at his models. Everything after that, he offered up without me asking. The only request that I asked him for was to take pictures and handle some of the artifacts. The tour was all his generosity. And after working at the Cairo for over 15 years, he was well knowledgeable on all aspects of the boat. He even agreed with a lot of the errors that I was able to find through research with the HSR and current display, like the skylights/hatchways and hammock nets.
 
Thank you for the kind words and following along Brian. As I mentioned to Roger above, I was just wanting to discuss some of my questions that I had about my build to make sure that I was getting the details as accurate as possible. I hadn't even give a thought to asking if I could get a VIP tour. I guess it wasn't something that I thought that they did. Thankfully Ray offered it up, I was not about to refuse that offer.
 
The grapeshot stand is about 10' tall and weighed about 75lbs (it was surprisingly heavy). From what I could tell was most likely used in the 8" Dahlgren, since it was a smoothbore cannon. I am not up too much on the ordinance (yet) but that is my best guess right now. The 42lb projectiles were about 14" long and about 7" in diameter and probably weighed in the neighborhood of 75lbs as well.
 
-Brian