bdgiantman2

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

I found this link: https://forum.game-labs.net/topic/6373-endymion-1797-the-fastest-ship-in-the-rn-with-plans/

I found this link: https://forum.game-labs.net/topic/6373-endymion-1797-the-fastest-ship-in-the-rn-with-plans/

I'm not sure where to put this. I'm a beginner, so don't flame me if I get it wrong. This is a complete build. I started with tlevine's half-hull project and created the opposite half of the frame to make a complete hull. Last summer I posted photos somewhere on this website. So now the ship--I suppose it could be labelled a scratch build--is finished. Since the hull project seemed 1750-1800ish in form, I used the Halifax and Sultana to generally guide me in my first project. I learned a huge amount going at it with hammer and tongs without benefit of plans. So here she is, and thanks much to the Half-Hull Project to get me started.
 

 

Yep  - morals are a problem in most of the world!

Thanks guys…its just a paper template so dont get too excited.  Hopefully i can now make her look like that using wood.  I will start planking in May after I get back from the Connecticut show.  This is how she will remain until then.  I am bringing the model if anyone happens to be going as well.  
 
I will also bring the completed Winnie.
 
 

Alrighty, friends! Needing a break from all the political hubbub and thankfully I have been finding answers. With enormous thanks to Mr. Passaro as well as Greg, I have been doing research involving the cant frames and hawse timbers. Plans of the Eagle originally done by A&M University when Dr. Crisman found the wreck off Lake Champlain clearly show two cant frames (the area circled in red in picture 1, Frames Q and R using the plans from Bill Edgin. And there is spacing where Frame S should be that perfectly makes the third cant frame). I have decided to copy the idea by Mr. Passaro used on his Speedwell blog for the cant frame areas. Then, using a compass,  I was able to get the angle of the frames off the keel (the angled lines done in cyan). Then the dark blue box shapes in picture 3 will be the hawse timbers but will need to redo this incorporating the spacer pieces where the anchor cable openings will be.  And for those of you wondering, the green boxes are following the construction Mr. Passaro used in the Winnie project strengthening the cathead pieces with the forward mast bitt frames. Hopefully very soon will be making sawdust again! Peace ✌️

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

Hello my friends, I have a question for you as I attempt to slowly continue. I know that this is my model, but I just want to see what you all suggest.
 
In the enclosed picture, you see a close-up of Eagle's keel and the start of her keelson. My question involves the first piece of the keelson. Currently this piece is cut from Boxwood, I will have to re-cut it either way to get the correct shape as well as sand down the outer pieces. I am debating making the keelson out of Yellow Alaskan Cedar like the ribs will be.

Too funny Keith! Without getting too political here, I would, but I'm too honest. 😁
 
-Brian

Finishing up Chapter5 with the gunport lids and I thought I would share how I make these.

1. Scotch tape is placed over each of the gunports and then the outline of the port and the position of the plank seams is traced onto it with a pencil.
2. Pieces of the correct width wood to match the planking widths are edge glued together about 1” wide and then the Scotch tape is pulled off the hull and aligned to the wood seams.
3. I roughly sand down to the outline of the outside of the port, and then fine sand while checking the fit until I get a snug fit it the port it is intended for.
4. Add the backing piece to each and paint the insides red.
 

Awesome job making those notches on the deck beams, this whole thing is turning out terrific!! I am gong to have to copy your process when I get to that step of making notches.
 
Brian

Awesome job making those notches on the deck beams, this whole thing is turning out terrific!! I am gong to have to copy your process when I get to that step of making notches.
 
Brian

Awesome job making those notches on the deck beams, this whole thing is turning out terrific!! I am gong to have to copy your process when I get to that step of making notches.
 
Brian

Well at last I've finally had some time to do a little on my ship.  So I've started making the rest of the main beams and this is another very wood hungry job.  In fact I was really surprised just how much wood these parts use.  Firstly I cut them out and sanded them all to their curved shape.

I have decided to do the stern beams first and this is where I found a bit of a discrepancy in my build.  The wing transom also acts as the last beam and I found that it sits 1mm too high.  I'm not surprised to be honest as this was one of the first jobs I did when starting this build.  I didn't realise at the time how much photocopies of plans can be out and also looking back I didn't check my measurements often enough........so I'll take the 1mm as a bit of a win.  What it did mean though was I had to gently increase the hight of the beams towards the stern.  Not a problem to do so thats what I did.
 
I also had to cut out the dovetails for the waterway and spirketting into each beam which is a job that I was unsure of how to do accurately.  I considered using the mill but in the end I decided to cut them by hand as this is a skill that do need to improve.  So here's how I did it.
 
Firstly I glued the templated onto the top of the beams and then marked the depth of the dovetails which in my case is 2mm

Next using a blade I cut the square ends of each joint to the required depth

Then I cut the deepest point of the dovetail which is basically stabbing the blade in and then scored the 2mm depth line along its full length.

It was only after doing these cuts that I attempted the diagonal cuts.  I found that I had to be very delicate with this cut as its so easy to split the wood.

Then I cleaned the joint up by using a chisel

And the final result looked like this - I was quite surprised just how nicely they turned out.  Its one of those jobs where its just better not to think about it too much and just get on with it.

So I'm halfway there now and these beams seem to make the hull look much more solid.



And yep it all lines up with the wing transom.......it's just a little high 🤣

So I'll now make a start on the forward beams 👍  I've not yet cut any of the rebates for the hatches and carlings because I want to fire a line straight down the middle using thread once all of the beams are in.  That will give me a really good datum to keep things nice and straight.
 
Cheers Mark
 

Another update. Even though I have yet to remake the keel as don't have money right now to buy more wood plus still needing to fix my saw, I have began the shaping of the hawse timbers for my model of Eagle. This will be a long process in making and shaping these pieces more, especially on the insides.  I am planning to be installing 1/32 inch spacers between the frames of the hawse timbers that have yet to be ordered. But this is where I am as another snow day in Denver.

Another update. Even though I have yet to remake the keel as don't have money right now to buy more wood plus still needing to fix my saw, I have began the shaping of the hawse timbers for my model of Eagle. This will be a long process in making and shaping these pieces more, especially on the insides.  I am planning to be installing 1/32 inch spacers between the frames of the hawse timbers that have yet to be ordered. But this is where I am as another snow day in Denver.

Alrighty, friends! Needing a break from all the political hubbub and thankfully I have been finding answers. With enormous thanks to Mr. Passaro as well as Greg, I have been doing research involving the cant frames and hawse timbers. Plans of the Eagle originally done by A&M University when Dr. Crisman found the wreck off Lake Champlain clearly show two cant frames (the area circled in red in picture 1, Frames Q and R using the plans from Bill Edgin. And there is spacing where Frame S should be that perfectly makes the third cant frame). I have decided to copy the idea by Mr. Passaro used on his Speedwell blog for the cant frame areas. Then, using a compass,  I was able to get the angle of the frames off the keel (the angled lines done in cyan). Then the dark blue box shapes in picture 3 will be the hawse timbers but will need to redo this incorporating the spacer pieces where the anchor cable openings will be.  And for those of you wondering, the green boxes are following the construction Mr. Passaro used in the Winnie project strengthening the cathead pieces with the forward mast bitt frames. Hopefully very soon will be making sawdust again! Peace ✌️

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

Hi Chuck,
 
I finally got caught up looking at all the new information on a PC instead of my phone. The framing is stunning and your description makes it seem so deceptively easy. Much easier than scratch but still a lot of care and patience is required to produce results like yours. I really like the last set of windows too.

Yes, Rusty. I totally agree. This is something I've been saying all along. Laser cutting is just the first step. Afterwards, much care is needed in order to get results like the ones seen in Chuck's builds. Care and Patience will always yield a better result.

That book (assuming does get written), combined with the book by Bernard Froliche would be the ultimate guiding sources bundle for all model ship building especially prior to the 1830s when more metal became increasingly in use.