Landrotten Highlander

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#13 square frames.
Similar to #14 but with a narrower gap with separation  pieces at right angles between the ribs.
The gap is 2.3mm, the pieces 3.71wide. The are set above (3.71) and below(4.7)joint line,with an extra one further up the 2 futtock at14.4mm
After filing the angle and depth of the “seat”, checking the height of the futtock head against the line previously drawn on the sheer plan.
The separation pieces were glued to the (fore aspect) of aft rib, whose seat was then glued to the deadwood.
Remember that the fore piece has the extra height -timberhead.
The chocks are made with a large “tail” for ease of handling. (later removed by spindle sander before fixing the rib to its place.
Filing seat, checking height and symmetry-The front of the seat just covers the end of the deadwood step.  
Small dabs of glue on spacers (extra one at level of deadwood NOT glued to either side).
Several clamps on each side of the pair of ribs to ensure good fit.
Looks good- very satisfying

Hi,
 
the planksheer and timber heads are now done, working further on open rail. the images show it
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Regards
 
Alex

Thanks, everyone.
Viewer warning: the following is for obsessive/compulsive people only....
 
This morning I adjusted my jig a little, and it really did make noticeably handed parts, left and right. So I proceeded to crank out cap squares.
 
 step 1: cutting to length. A little stop jig made quick work of cutting all of the parts to the same length.

 
 
step 2: the blank needs some rough bending before putting it in the jig. I measured 7" (real size for the fore end of the cap square) on the end of my pliers, and made a 90 degree bend. This ensures that the part keeps all of the right proportional relationships once it goes into the jig.

 
Step 3: chain nose pliers are used to form a rough curved bend next.

 
I end up with a pile of S curved blanks, ready for the jig:

 
 
Step 4: into the jig, with the 7" length inboard of the jig, and the 90 degree bend tight up against the dowel.
 

 
A tight squeeze in a vise, and perfect cap squares form:

 
28 identical left hand, and 28 identical right hand. In a couple of hours. Way more fun using a jig, even though I did struggle trying to design the jig, as seen in the previous post. The jigs for the 18# and 9# guns should go a lot faster, now I know what I am doing here.
 

 
Mark
 

Hi Marc,
 
The best pictures I have:
 
1 and 2 Frégate Néréide 1720
3,4 unknown
5
 
Here is my guess. Before and after 1700 the shell would be wood and the inside bricks, metals parts came later, I would say after 1750.
The stove was not that big. It was not made to feed everybody, only the officers.
The location looks like to always be beneath the forecastle.
In 1780 the 74 guns had a copper sheet above the stove with 2 chimneys but not in 1680.
 
I would be caucious with Lemineur. I used his drawings for the frames of the 74 and he changed many parts shapes for obscures reasons. Trying to answer questions  before 1700 is often a guess, and the beauty of it, is that everybody can imagine what he wants, no one will come to  contredict him.

Meh. Just when you start working another lockdown appears to slow you up. I've admittedly not stopped as I had to redo the keel after a process mistake. The Mark III keel went fine though so this post is to cover the nails/sizing and false keel stages.
 
Once I had the joint on piece 6 done (and the process mistake was here. I had to remove the extra 'meat' so it was exact size top to bottom as otherwise when I attach to the rest of the keel it is too large). Anyway on the Mark III version I adjusted the plans so I cut it out at the correct height. This was then joined to the rest of the keel in the fashion described above and I then started on the bolts. I probably mentioned earlier that I went the bamboo path this time - after firstly this will not be visible and secondly it allows me to thickness post bolt addition. To simplify matters I generated a bolt plan in turbo cad and then copied and pasted until I had twenty or so on a sheet. I could then print this, cut off the template (which showed the rabbett so could be the correct way up)  and pasted it to the relevant joints (making very certain that the rabbett was at the correct side).
 
As so
 

 
Now I did not need to bother with exact movements of the mill and could just drill through with a microsd board drill at the correct size (I went for 1mm which is actually far larger than the correct diameter of the scale bolts BUTTTTTT these bolts were clenched by hammering each end so would expand making them larger visually, this also allowed a thicker bamboo treenail so more lateral strength in the joints. Also (again) no one will see there.)
 

 
The drill was not quite large enough to make it through so I then switched to a pin drill to finish the last 2-3mm - at that point the rest of the hole provided a decent guide so it would be hard for the bit to wander.
 

 
Not bad. 
 
Next up I wanted the keel on BEFORE I thicknessed the sides to length OR the actual length for that matter. Thicknessers can cause a 'bump' at each end of a piece of wood worked on (if unlucky and your attention wanders) so if this happened it would be later removed when thicknessed to length. The other advantage is that the false keel and keel get side thicknessed simultaneously so wont end up with even marginal differences. 
 
This is also where cutting the false keel to the same start width as the actual helps as you don't have to worry about overlap. 
 
Here is me attempting to ensure false keel pieces do not have their joints at the keels joints
 

 
and here is a standard clamp shot. I did two false keel pieces a day (one before work and one after) as the risk of them sliding due to the blackened glue is high and I have made mistakes in the past trying to do all such types of work at the same time.
 

 
After the keel was on I could thickness to the sides. Here I was very careful to move the thicknesser two notches then thickness then move two notches and to repeat on the other side mainly so my piece 6 boxing joint would not be heavily out of place.
 
After this I used the disc sander to thickness the front 'ledge' to the correct size before using a very long ruler (two metres?) to get the rear end of the keel to the correct size. To get the angle I went back to the plans which had this marked already (see the left size of piece one)
 

I could then cut this out (marking the correct side with the angle first so I didn't accidentally use the sissored side..
 

 
The angle was done on the disc sander but I did use a scroll saw to remove some of the excess as sanding produces more dust than I like even with a decent extractor and mask on. It's not easy to see but you can see the line of the false keel running all the way through.
 

 
So happily the keel/false keel unit is done. I used cherry for the false keel (as opposed to the apple I am using elsewhere) for no particular reason (false keels in real life were a different wood to the main frame). Now I have this done and I am happy with it it should provide a stable foundation for the rest of the ship. If something goes wrong (which it will) with a later piece then I wont have to restart from scratch.
 
Here is an unexciting shot of the keel in place.
 

 
and finally here is a close up of the correct sized keel/false keel showing both the bolts and a false keel joint.
 

 
Next up I will probably start on the stem. Only because it is easier to fit without the next section of the keel in place. Thanks for reading this far and happy modelling!
 

Hello, 
here is the continuation of making the block strops for the guide blocks of the foremast top.
 

Hello,
and many thanks for your likes and wishes.
After a short break between the years, I'm back at the shipyard. Now all port lids at least are build, but not all are lined. 
 

 

 
At the picture above you see the lids without lining, flush with the planking. At the picture below the lids have already the lining, and they are now not flush with the planking. All who where not ill with measles ore what else when it came to addition at school, know what is now to do. And that is not a shortcut ☹️
 

 

 
Above without lining and below with lining. 
 

 
At the picture above the lids are looking more like at most historic models. At the Centurion (below) is interesting, that they build the lids just plain, without the bulky wails or thick planking on top! 
 

Stem almost there.... . Much iron (bronze) work! I find it challenging because I never worked so much metals by model shipbuilding.

Wasnt very hard though I am very inexperience in this kind of work. But still am looking forward to go back to old nice wood work.... lol

Good morning and thank you all, more pictures of the capes, next step I will start with the sculptures.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

The clothes pegs question I can answer: they are sticking through the gun ports with the lower jaw.

And now the hull has been "tarred".
 
I think the stain turned out OK Compare for example with the pictures that @Mike Y shared earlier in this thread. The slightly uneven coloration looks quite realistic. I do plan to put a coat of dark shellac on top, so it will be become even darker.
 
In the end my mix was 3 parts light oak, 1 part mahogany, 1 part ebony stains and 5 parts water.

The riveting has also started.
 

Continuation. 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Pawel 

Good morning and thanks to all for the likes, more photos....
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Un saluto.

Thanks so much, JR, it sounds like you have done a great deal of research. I look forward to hearing more as you are able to give the project more attention. I might start writing down all of the issues that I don't understand yet, particularly the belaying points.
 
Now I have confirmed that I can indeed form and blacken the iron work, I am looking ahead to another piece of ironwork that I put off dealing with until now. That is the capsquares on the gun carriages. I am still considering the possibility of installing the carriages now, but leaving the barrels off until a few years later, when I have completed more of the upper works and decks, and will be less liable to accidentally knock a cannon out of place from the outside.
 
But that means the capsquares would have to really hinge up, so I could insert the barrel through the gun port with epoxy on the trunnions, slip them under the capsquares, and press the capsquare down in place.
 
I made a crude mockup of a cap square, just to see how small they are, and how well I could make them hinge.
 

 
Not well, I found out. the flat plate is too long, doesn't allow pivoting around the eyebolt head. So more work to do here.
 
To make these more efficiently, I am thinking about making a small die, which would press the right shape, and then align drilling for the bolts.
I know the eyebolt and joint bolt are both rectangular in section, but I am thinking this will make it exceedingly difficult to manufacture and install at this small scale. I am interested if others have managed something like this at 3/16" scale.
 

 
And these are the largest cannon. It will get progressively more difficult as the guns get smaller on upper decks!
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello,
first of all, I would like to thank you for the positive reaction and of course for the many LIKES.
 
As can be seen in the following picture, the last eye for attaching the last ratlines of the futtock shrouds of the foremast has just been spliced directly on model.


This gives me cause to deal with the execution of the shrouds of the topmasts and subsequently with the corresponding ratlines.
Some time ago I dealt intensively with the diameters of the ropes for the ratlines. In this respect I may refer to the corresponding passages in my construction report: LINK (you have to scroll down).
After several attempts and interesting discussions in various forums, I finally decided to make the ratlines of the lower shrouds of my model with ø 0.35 mm (corresponds to ø16.8 mm in the original). In retrospect, this decision proved to be completely correct. The weaving lines of ø 0.43 mm (ø 21 mm in the original), according to the information in the monograph by Jean Boudriot, would appear too thick on the model.
Since the topmast shrouds were much thinner than the lower shrouds (comparison on the model: topmast shrouds of the foremast ø 0.66 mm / foremast shrouds ø 1.08 mm), their ratlines should also have smaller diameters.
At the moment, I am therefore trying to clarify whether the required eye splices can be made with rope thicknesses of ø 0.25 mm. For this purpose, I made a splicing tool with a smaller diameter ø 0.8 mm, as shown in the next picture.

 
The making of an eye splice (push through 2 times) with a rope thickness of ø 0.35 mm has become quite successful due to much practice. With a 0.25 mm diameter, it is much more difficult and not yet so easy. The macro shots make the whole thing seem more harmless than it actually is.
Whether I can apply this to the topmast shrouds in this way, I will have to clarify and ultimately decide in due course through further trials. Alternatively, a cow hitch knot would be conceivable. Both possibilities are shown in the last picture with a rope corresponding to the topmast shrouds. Below I show a comparison of a ratline connection as it has been made for the lower mast shrouds.
In the end, I like the version with an eye splice better, as it is not so thick and comes closer to the original.

 
What is your opinion?
 

Hi all,
 
planksheer continued and timber heads in process.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
those parts are laminated from 3 layer of 0,5mm pear wood:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
then the planksheer and timber heads are painted black and installed:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Regards
 
Alex

This is not to be unexpected. It reminds of me of Neil Peart, the late drummer for Rush. After his wife passed away, he took a long hiatus from the band, but he came back to it eventually. If you are passionate about something, as your models clearly show, you will return to it at some point. But time away for grieving is something none of us would begrudge you.
 
Take care of yourself,
Chris

Dear friends, I do appreciate your comments and support. Thank you all very much.
 
Well, I am not sure I will start with new projects in future. I have lost motivation and enthusiasm,  always shared it with my husband and created the models also for him - he supported me a lot and loved what I did. Now I'm finishing my best model - the Royal Katherine and definitely don't want to give it up.
I added the bonnet under the fore course to achieve another detail for better realism. A followed these drawings from Lees´ book:
 

 
 
 
Now I am working on four anchors, they will be made of card.
 
 
Best regards,
Doris
 
 

I appreciate your words Backer and Louie da fly
 
Thus covered the railings of the main deck and stretched from it wales. Railings and rails glued with long pins..
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was about to suggest the same.
Alternatively, you can do as I did - custom make your own bench.  As I too have a disability (walking with crutches for short distances, wheelchair for longer distances + the risk of falling over without warning) I had to think long and hard about how to improve my modelling experience.  I decided that having a bar stool set to such a height that I can easily slide on/off it will help me as I then do not need any support to get on/off the chair.  I then calculated the ideal working height for my table top based on me sitting in that chair and having all relative supports needed to keep my arms relaxed when working on tiny details - my worktop height is 95.7 mm from the floor, making sure I can sit nice and upright when workig.  It may look crude (I used CLS 90mm x 35mm / 3.5" x 1.5") but I am now much more comfortable when modelling.

I was about to suggest the same.
Alternatively, you can do as I did - custom make your own bench.  As I too have a disability (walking with crutches for short distances, wheelchair for longer distances + the risk of falling over without warning) I had to think long and hard about how to improve my modelling experience.  I decided that having a bar stool set to such a height that I can easily slide on/off it will help me as I then do not need any support to get on/off the chair.  I then calculated the ideal working height for my table top based on me sitting in that chair and having all relative supports needed to keep my arms relaxed when working on tiny details - my worktop height is 95.7 mm from the floor, making sure I can sit nice and upright when workig.  It may look crude (I used CLS 90mm x 35mm / 3.5" x 1.5") but I am now much more comfortable when modelling.

I was about to suggest the same.
Alternatively, you can do as I did - custom make your own bench.  As I too have a disability (walking with crutches for short distances, wheelchair for longer distances + the risk of falling over without warning) I had to think long and hard about how to improve my modelling experience.  I decided that having a bar stool set to such a height that I can easily slide on/off it will help me as I then do not need any support to get on/off the chair.  I then calculated the ideal working height for my table top based on me sitting in that chair and having all relative supports needed to keep my arms relaxed when working on tiny details - my worktop height is 95.7 mm from the floor, making sure I can sit nice and upright when workig.  It may look crude (I used CLS 90mm x 35mm / 3.5" x 1.5") but I am now much more comfortable when modelling.

Sorry to hear about your husband.  You have made a wonderful model, and I am sure he will appreciate the thought of having the entire ship to you and him.

I was ready to install the gun deck standards, when I realized that I should probably put in the eyebolts and rings for the guns when I still have a little maneuvering room. I made up a few eyebolts and rings out of copper, and blackened them with JAX for copper following the instructions on the bottle. Looked great, until all the black came right off when I picked them up with needle nose pliers to push them into the holes in the quickwork. 
 
So, then I tried Ed Tosti's method in his book on the Naiad, using Liver of Sulphur which can be painted on even after the metalwork is installed in the wood. This worked, as can be seen in this sample:

 
That means I could install the eyebolts, then blacken them in place.

 
 
But then I realized that I would need to seize the breaching ropes around the rings off the model, which means that I can't then blacken the rings after installation without messing up the rope.
 
So, I read David Antscherl's advice more carefully on blacking, in the Fully Framed Model series. He advised diluting blackening agents as much as 8:1 with water. It acts much more slowly--it took mine about 45 minutes instead of a few seconds--but it was beautifully black and stable. 
 
I tried it on a strap on the stern timbers, a beautiful sheen to the black, just like iron.

 
So, the next test is to make up ring/eyebolts , blacken them with JAX, and assemble with a breaching rope and seizing. Then try installing and see if the black stays on.
 
Much to learn about metal!
 
Mark