
Landrotten Highlander
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Siggi52 in HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
Hello,
yesterday the carpenters profiled the planks for the sheer rail and produced a lot of shavings. Today we fit them in at the port side. After I got a little routine with the ends, it was an easy job. Tomorrow we will make the starboard side.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to stuglo in Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
#12 square frame
The aft one of the pair is again “cast forward”by 1.06mm-a dogleg that will form an upright for a port.
This means that the upper futtock an extra 1.06mm thick.-total 6.36mm.
The frame also has a timberhead.
Make note of height of sill as the cast must end below this.(11.3cm)
Again postponed making the sill mortise-although easier off model, measurement is too critical.
I started the shift 10mm above the futtock head.The mill was used to remove the necessary wood and a transition slope ,sanded.
Before fixing in place,a critical problem (for me at least) needed to be solved.
The position of frames #12 and #11 are determined by the width of the port opening-the fore #11 forms the second port frame.
This is given in TFFM as 15.1mm-This will mean the frames will need to be somewhat crowded- the usual spacing not working.
My framing pattern does show use of narrower timbers, and less gaps, but also a port opening of 16.3mm. The other ports are however 15.1mm, so I decided for symmetry and same thickness timbers. Fore #12 and aft #11 will be short, supporting the sill, and a narrow gap between them.
Additionally, the #11 pair are again separated by spacers.
Here I found another problem. The rising wood finishes between the pair.I assumed a faint vertical line marked the spot on my sheer pattern.This appears to be too short.
There is a difference in width and I decided to simply narrow the notch of the aft frame.
(If this leads to a problem later on please let me know.)
Also, to ensure my measuring of port gap was correct, I glued together the #11 pair with their spacers, off the model, and then confirmed my estimate and only then, glued the pair to their seats on the keel.
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from FrankWouts in Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels
I do not know if this system would work with this kind of carving, but I would like to share my experience with carving used in Bonsai trees.
Sometimes you want to show a branch that has died back a long time ago in your design. The Japanese name is called 'jin' (pronounce like the drink gin). To do this you need to remove the old bark - which can be particularly troublesome if the branch is a real dead on, not a living one you kill of to make it look dead.
I use very sharp knives to remove this - similar to what Chuck has been showing with his #11 blade. Obviously you do not wish to see the cut-marks (otherwise it looks artificial, not natural as is desired).
To remove the obvious signs, I use the same knife, hold the blade perpendicular to the surface so that only a very narrow point of the cutting edge is actually touching the branch (in this case carved piece). Moving this sideways - under very gentle pressure - will even off the edges of the cut marks, thus giving the look of a smooth surface.
Will take some time, but I think it will give a very smooth surface - after all, is this not a technique used for scraping deck and hull?
Just my two cents, now I will have my wee dram.
Slainte
Peter
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Bedford in Royal Caroline by Bedford - Panart - 1/48
The planking begins, you'll note that I glued the "negatives" of the bow molds to the stem to provide proper placement and wedging facility to keep the planks held properly at the bow. They will be easily removed later with a sharp chisel.
I've got 6 planks on each side but here it stops for a while because I don't like the alignment of the mast holes.
The fore mast will lean forward like an older VOC ship, the main will be vertical and only the mizzen will have a gentle rake aft like it should so now I have to take the angles off the plan and work out how to make it all work. This is the first kit I've had which doesn't include the mast angles.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Bedford in Royal Caroline by Bedford - Panart - 1/48
Ok, this will be a tad long winded.
Several years ago I was googling this model and stumbled upon a build on this very forum (that's how I came to join this little group) where the builder had taken the time to research and draw up the floor of the Kings cabin on his computer and the pics where beautiful so I asked him if he would be so kind as to send me the artwork and given my reason for building this he was more than willing to help. I don't remember who he was and as far as I know the build thread was lost when the site crashed a few years back.
Anyway, I am proceeding with my plans to fit out the Kings cabin. I cut out the centre of frame 7 and traced the floor beam at that station to put one on the back of 7 and another on the front of 8. To align them I just clamped some scrap to the existing floor section between 6 and 7 and used them as guides for the two extra floor beams.
I then cut a template for a new floor to cover the existing half floor and the new section aft of station 7 and cut the new floor from some 0.8mm ply and glued that down followed by the floor image.
I then lined the interior timbers with some 6 x 0.5 planks I had. There will be more in that cabin as time progresses.
On the subject of lining walls etc I differ from the kit manufacturers in that they recommend applying the facing planks AFTER doing the hull planking but it is so much easier to do all the surfaces that can be done prior to hull planking because you can just slap the planking on then with a sharp chisel trim to an exact fit without any drama.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to SJSoane in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
druxey, could it be the cap square on that carronade was cast, not bent from sheet? I never thought of doing that. A good way to pick up the detail of the hinge and clasp...
I spent a good day bending up eye bolts for the gun carriages. I made a jig inspired by Alex M (HMS Sphinx), who got it from a German modeler
Günter Bossong http://www.minisail-ev.de/fibel/fib-03-09/fib-03-09.htm.
It has a slot just wide enough for the leg of the eyebolt, and a drill the correct size of the inner diameter of the eye. A piece of copper wire of the correct diameter is bent at right angles and put into the jig, then pulled around the drill bit (the hole not being used is for the larger diameter eye bolts for the quickwork, still to come):
The wire is wrapped all the way around the drill bit, and pressed down on top of the leg:
The loop is then grabbed with pliers and cut with micro angle cutters just where the loop hits the leg:
a quick squeeze in parallel jaw pliers to flatten out, and voila, Bob's your uncle:
I see that one of the positions with the greatest job security in the 18th century British shipyard would have to be the guys who made the eyebolts and rings.
Here are 196 eyebolts, just for the 28 cannon carriages on the gun deck. Add in another 28 for the deck, and 112 in the quickwork, and no rest for the weary...
Mark
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Vegaskip in Ship paintings
I was asked by Valentina Golycheva if I could do a painting of the attack on Convoy BD-5 - 12 August, 1944: The Marina Raskova was a soviet cargo ship that was torpedoed and damaged in the Kara Sea by U-365 (commander Kapitänleutnant H.Wedemeyer) while heading from Molotovsk to Kara's naval base at Port Dikson to supply food, technical equipment relief personnel and their families. The merchant ship was being escorted by three minesweepers from the 6. Minesweeper Division, and two of them were also sunk by the German submarine (T-118 and T-114). Marina Raskova was sunk by a coup de grâce the day after. Of the 632 men Women and Children on the three ships, 373 were lost and only 259 were rescued. Valentina's Father was among those killed. A little known event among the the the many tragedies during the war at sea in the Arctic Convoys. It is well worth looking into the story of Convoy BD-5 and subsequent expedition in 2015 to find and honour the remains of those who did not return Valentina Golysheva is well known in connection with Russian Arctic Convoy associations and Rememberance events in Russia and UK. She is Associate Professor, PhD Director of the British Centre Department of English School of Social Sciences and Humanities and International Communications Northern ( Arctic) Federal University (NARFU) Arkhangelsk
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to bolin in Medieval longship by bolin - FINISHED - 1:30 - based on reconstruction Helga Holm
The riveting is now mostly complete on one side. I have built an inverted hedgehog 😀
Now I will continue with adding the washers. I ended with selecting black card stock (120g/m2) for these. They are cut as 1x1 mm squares and I use a metal pin to push a 0.5 mm hole. The rivets are about 0.3 mm so its not to hard to get the washers in place. I will put a drop of dilute glue under to fix them and then cut away the pin.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Siggi52 in HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
Hello, and many thanks for your likes.
today I finished the gun ports so far, that they fit and being painted. The rest comes, after I painted the outside of the ship.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Ondras71 in Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
Thank you very much Hubacs Historian.
I continue with the railing of the aft deck ..
The edges of the painted strips are fragile, I will have to retouch in one place..
Rounded railing parts ..
I tried the wax with which I will paint the moldings of Wales, if it does not destroy the paint with the varnish and it's great..
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to mtaylor in Miniature Russian carving tools
Contact allanyed via PM. A few posts up from yours, you'll find his posts. The reason it's done this way to keep Mihail from being spammed. MSW along almost every other website gets crawled by bots and email addresses do get sucked up and posted
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to stuglo in Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
#13 square frames.
Similar to #14 but with a narrower gap with separation pieces at right angles between the ribs.
The gap is 2.3mm, the pieces 3.71wide. The are set above (3.71) and below(4.7)joint line,with an extra one further up the 2 futtock at14.4mm
After filing the angle and depth of the “seat”, checking the height of the futtock head against the line previously drawn on the sheer plan.
The separation pieces were glued to the (fore aspect) of aft rib, whose seat was then glued to the deadwood.
Remember that the fore piece has the extra height -timberhead.
The chocks are made with a large “tail” for ease of handling. (later removed by spindle sander before fixing the rib to its place.
Filing seat, checking height and symmetry-The front of the seat just covers the end of the deadwood step.
Small dabs of glue on spacers (extra one at level of deadwood NOT glued to either side).
Several clamps on each side of the pair of ribs to ensure good fit.
Looks good- very satisfying
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Alex M in HMS Sphynx 1775 by Alex M - Scale 1/48 - English 20-Gun Frigate
Hi,
the planksheer and timber heads are now done, working further on open rail. the images show it
Regards
Alex
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to SJSoane in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Thanks, everyone.
Viewer warning: the following is for obsessive/compulsive people only....
This morning I adjusted my jig a little, and it really did make noticeably handed parts, left and right. So I proceeded to crank out cap squares.
step 1: cutting to length. A little stop jig made quick work of cutting all of the parts to the same length.
step 2: the blank needs some rough bending before putting it in the jig. I measured 7" (real size for the fore end of the cap square) on the end of my pliers, and made a 90 degree bend. This ensures that the part keeps all of the right proportional relationships once it goes into the jig.
Step 3: chain nose pliers are used to form a rough curved bend next.
I end up with a pile of S curved blanks, ready for the jig:
Step 4: into the jig, with the 7" length inboard of the jig, and the 90 degree bend tight up against the dowel.
A tight squeeze in a vise, and perfect cap squares form:
28 identical left hand, and 28 identical right hand. In a couple of hours. Way more fun using a jig, even though I did struggle trying to design the jig, as seen in the previous post. The jigs for the 18# and 9# guns should go a lot faster, now I know what I am doing here.
Mark
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in 74-gun ship by Gaetan Bordeleau - 1:24
Hi Marc,
The best pictures I have:
1 and 2 Frégate Néréide 1720
3,4 unknown
5
Here is my guess. Before and after 1700 the shell would be wood and the inside bricks, metals parts came later, I would say after 1750.
The stove was not that big. It was not made to feed everybody, only the officers.
The location looks like to always be beneath the forecastle.
In 1780 the 74 guns had a copper sheet above the stove with 2 chimneys but not in 1680.
I would be caucious with Lemineur. I used his drawings for the frames of the 74 and he changed many parts shapes for obscures reasons. Trying to answer questions before 1700 is often a guess, and the beauty of it, is that everybody can imagine what he wants, no one will come to contredict him.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Matrim in HBMS Amphion 1798 by Matrim - 32 Gun 18pdr Frigate
Meh. Just when you start working another lockdown appears to slow you up. I've admittedly not stopped as I had to redo the keel after a process mistake. The Mark III keel went fine though so this post is to cover the nails/sizing and false keel stages.
Once I had the joint on piece 6 done (and the process mistake was here. I had to remove the extra 'meat' so it was exact size top to bottom as otherwise when I attach to the rest of the keel it is too large). Anyway on the Mark III version I adjusted the plans so I cut it out at the correct height. This was then joined to the rest of the keel in the fashion described above and I then started on the bolts. I probably mentioned earlier that I went the bamboo path this time - after firstly this will not be visible and secondly it allows me to thickness post bolt addition. To simplify matters I generated a bolt plan in turbo cad and then copied and pasted until I had twenty or so on a sheet. I could then print this, cut off the template (which showed the rabbett so could be the correct way up) and pasted it to the relevant joints (making very certain that the rabbett was at the correct side).
As so
Now I did not need to bother with exact movements of the mill and could just drill through with a microsd board drill at the correct size (I went for 1mm which is actually far larger than the correct diameter of the scale bolts BUTTTTTT these bolts were clenched by hammering each end so would expand making them larger visually, this also allowed a thicker bamboo treenail so more lateral strength in the joints. Also (again) no one will see there.)
The drill was not quite large enough to make it through so I then switched to a pin drill to finish the last 2-3mm - at that point the rest of the hole provided a decent guide so it would be hard for the bit to wander.
Not bad.
Next up I wanted the keel on BEFORE I thicknessed the sides to length OR the actual length for that matter. Thicknessers can cause a 'bump' at each end of a piece of wood worked on (if unlucky and your attention wanders) so if this happened it would be later removed when thicknessed to length. The other advantage is that the false keel and keel get side thicknessed simultaneously so wont end up with even marginal differences.
This is also where cutting the false keel to the same start width as the actual helps as you don't have to worry about overlap.
Here is me attempting to ensure false keel pieces do not have their joints at the keels joints
and here is a standard clamp shot. I did two false keel pieces a day (one before work and one after) as the risk of them sliding due to the blackened glue is high and I have made mistakes in the past trying to do all such types of work at the same time.
After the keel was on I could thickness to the sides. Here I was very careful to move the thicknesser two notches then thickness then move two notches and to repeat on the other side mainly so my piece 6 boxing joint would not be heavily out of place.
After this I used the disc sander to thickness the front 'ledge' to the correct size before using a very long ruler (two metres?) to get the rear end of the keel to the correct size. To get the angle I went back to the plans which had this marked already (see the left size of piece one)
I could then cut this out (marking the correct side with the angle first so I didn't accidentally use the sissored side..
The angle was done on the disc sander but I did use a scroll saw to remove some of the excess as sanding produces more dust than I like even with a decent extractor and mask on. It's not easy to see but you can see the line of the false keel running all the way through.
So happily the keel/false keel unit is done. I used cherry for the false keel (as opposed to the apple I am using elsewhere) for no particular reason (false keels in real life were a different wood to the main frame). Now I have this done and I am happy with it it should provide a stable foundation for the rest of the ship. If something goes wrong (which it will) with a later piece then I wont have to restart from scratch.
Here is an unexciting shot of the keel in place.
and finally here is a close up of the correct sized keel/false keel showing both the bolts and a false keel joint.
Next up I will probably start on the stem. Only because it is easier to fit without the next section of the keel in place. Thanks for reading this far and happy modelling!
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Hello,
here is the continuation of making the block strops for the guide blocks of the foremast top.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Siggi52 in HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
Hello,
and many thanks for your likes and wishes.
After a short break between the years, I'm back at the shipyard. Now all port lids at least are build, but not all are lined.
At the picture above you see the lids without lining, flush with the planking. At the picture below the lids have already the lining, and they are now not flush with the planking. All who where not ill with measles ore what else when it came to addition at school, know what is now to do. And that is not a shortcut ☹️
Above without lining and below with lining.
At the picture above the lids are looking more like at most historic models. At the Centurion (below) is interesting, that they build the lids just plain, without the bulky wails or thick planking on top!
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to MESSIS in Royal Caroline by Messis - FINISHED - Panart - 1/48
Stem almost there.... . Much iron (bronze) work! I find it challenging because I never worked so much metals by model shipbuilding.
Wasnt very hard though I am very inexperience in this kind of work. But still am looking forward to go back to old nice wood work.... lol
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Forlani daniel in Chebece 1750 by Forlani daniel - FINISHED - 1:48
Good morning and thank you all, more pictures of the capes, next step I will start with the sculptures.
Un Saluto.
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Sphynx 1775 by Alex M - Scale 1/48 - English 20-Gun Frigate
The clothes pegs question I can answer: they are sticking through the gun ports with the lower jaw.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to bolin in Medieval longship by bolin - FINISHED - 1:30 - based on reconstruction Helga Holm
And now the hull has been "tarred".
I think the stain turned out OK Compare for example with the pictures that @Mike Y shared earlier in this thread. The slightly uneven coloration looks quite realistic. I do plan to put a coat of dark shellac on top, so it will be become even darker.
In the end my mix was 3 parts light oak, 1 part mahogany, 1 part ebony stains and 5 parts water.
The riveting has also started.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Forlani daniel in Chebece 1750 by Forlani daniel - FINISHED - 1:48
Good morning and thanks to all for the likes, more photos....
Un saluto.