lehmann

Jay
To remove the table, loosen the two knobs that lock the module to the rear T- track; pivot the table up so it clears the saw, the slide the module to the right. Then, remove the arbour. Everything off in less than a minute. Putting back on is just the reverse. No adjustments needed.
 
Bruce

I recently got a small (Taig) lathe, so I built a base for it and the motor, along with some drawers for keeping the accessories out of the dust.  I also wanted a small table saw, but with the lathe I already had a powered shaft, so why not mount a circular saw on it and then a table.  For simplicity, the table height adjustment uses the same tilting concept as used for thickness sanders.
 
This is where I started and the attached pdf describes the design and how I turned a lathe into a table saw (pun intended).  When time permits, I intend to also build a thickness sander based on the same concept.
 
 
Bruce
 
 
 
 
 
 
TableSaw.pdf

I recently got a small (Taig) lathe, so I built a base for it and the motor, along with some drawers for keeping the accessories out of the dust.  I also wanted a small table saw, but with the lathe I already had a powered shaft, so why not mount a circular saw on it and then a table.  For simplicity, the table height adjustment uses the same tilting concept as used for thickness sanders.
 
This is where I started and the attached pdf describes the design and how I turned a lathe into a table saw (pun intended).  When time permits, I intend to also build a thickness sander based on the same concept.
 
 
Bruce
 
 
 
 
 
 
TableSaw.pdf

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

On the Hermione web site a book in English is now listed.  Cost is 19 EU.
    
 
http://www.hermione.com/en/shop/books-dvds/94-book-la-fayette-s-liberty-ship-of-1780-english-version.html
 
The only description is "A synthesis of the Hermione's reconstruction."  Has anyone seen a review or detailed list of contents?   

I recently got a small (Taig) lathe, so I built a base for it and the motor, along with some drawers for keeping the accessories out of the dust.  I also wanted a small table saw, but with the lathe I already had a powered shaft, so why not mount a circular saw on it and then a table.  For simplicity, the table height adjustment uses the same tilting concept as used for thickness sanders.
 
This is where I started and the attached pdf describes the design and how I turned a lathe into a table saw (pun intended).  When time permits, I intend to also build a thickness sander based on the same concept.
 
 
Bruce
 
 
 
 
 
 
TableSaw.pdf

I recently got a small (Taig) lathe, so I built a base for it and the motor, along with some drawers for keeping the accessories out of the dust.  I also wanted a small table saw, but with the lathe I already had a powered shaft, so why not mount a circular saw on it and then a table.  For simplicity, the table height adjustment uses the same tilting concept as used for thickness sanders.
 
This is where I started and the attached pdf describes the design and how I turned a lathe into a table saw (pun intended).  When time permits, I intend to also build a thickness sander based on the same concept.
 
 
Bruce
 
 
 
 
 
 
TableSaw.pdf

I recently got a small (Taig) lathe, so I built a base for it and the motor, along with some drawers for keeping the accessories out of the dust.  I also wanted a small table saw, but with the lathe I already had a powered shaft, so why not mount a circular saw on it and then a table.  For simplicity, the table height adjustment uses the same tilting concept as used for thickness sanders.
 
This is where I started and the attached pdf describes the design and how I turned a lathe into a table saw (pun intended).  When time permits, I intend to also build a thickness sander based on the same concept.
 
 
Bruce
 
 
 
 
 
 
TableSaw.pdf

I recently got a small (Taig) lathe, so I built a base for it and the motor, along with some drawers for keeping the accessories out of the dust.  I also wanted a small table saw, but with the lathe I already had a powered shaft, so why not mount a circular saw on it and then a table.  For simplicity, the table height adjustment uses the same tilting concept as used for thickness sanders.
 
This is where I started and the attached pdf describes the design and how I turned a lathe into a table saw (pun intended).  When time permits, I intend to also build a thickness sander based on the same concept.
 
 
Bruce
 
 
 
 
 
 
TableSaw.pdf

On the Hermione web site a book in English is now listed.  Cost is 19 EU.
    
 
http://www.hermione.com/en/shop/books-dvds/94-book-la-fayette-s-liberty-ship-of-1780-english-version.html
 
The only description is "A synthesis of the Hermione's reconstruction."  Has anyone seen a review or detailed list of contents?   

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

Copper and copper alloys, such as brass, can only be hardened by work hardening.  This is usually done by running a sheet between rollers, or it can be done by drawing (pulling a wire through a hole smaller than the diameter of the wire).  Hardening can also be done by beating with a hammer, but the results will be uneven, to say nothing of the resulting uneven thickness.  At some point the material becomes brittle, which may limit the amount of bending possible for your part.  In a rolling plant, the sheets get hard after a few rolls, and so, they need to be heated (tempered) to soften them so the thickness can be reduced some more.
 
Iron, is also hardenable by working, but the amount is limited.  Hardening cannot be achieved by heating and quenching (rapid cooling) unless the carbon content is greater than 0.12%.  This limit basically defines the difference between iron and steel.  To go beyond this, other elements are added, creating alloys.  On the topic of alloys, brass is an alloy of copper and zinc;  bronze, is an alloy of copper with tin, phosphorus, aluminum, nickle or silicon.  
 
Aluminum can also be hardened, but this is mostly done by precipitation or solution hardening, where the material is kept at a certain temperature for period of time.   The hardness is designated by a "T" code, as in 6061-T4, which is the most common grade of aluminum.  
 
We work in brass and copper in models because they are easy to work, easy to solder or braze, and are corrosion resistant.  We could use stainless steels (there are many grades), but they tend to be quite hard, as anyone who has tried to drill and tap a 4-40 thread in stainless knows.  Aluminum has some of the same properties of brass, but it's very hard to join, although I've seen some aluminum "solders'.   Although aluminum is corrosion resistant, it does form a soft oxide layer that comes off easily. 
 
Probably more than you wanted to know, but now that it's been emptied from my brain, I have room to learn something else....

I just saw the picture in the first post.  By coincidence, I have the same setup on my mill, but it's on a full size knee mill, not a table-top.   I do research for the sawmill industry on saws, and this setup will be used in an experiment I'm doing.   To give some scale, the saw is 7.25 inches diameter.  
 
I also use it for woodworking - it's a great overhead router, although the spindle speed is a bit low.  Like it for woodworking, because I don't have to build templates to do repeated or precise slots, holes, etc.  On the other end of the scale, I have the "sensitive drill chuck" for drilling a #80 hole.
 
One of the nice things about having full size machines is that I can build the table-top machines myself.  Hopefully, later this week I'll share some pics of a small table saw that fits on a Taig lathe.
 

I just saw the picture in the first post.  By coincidence, I have the same setup on my mill, but it's on a full size knee mill, not a table-top.   I do research for the sawmill industry on saws, and this setup will be used in an experiment I'm doing.   To give some scale, the saw is 7.25 inches diameter.  
 
I also use it for woodworking - it's a great overhead router, although the spindle speed is a bit low.  Like it for woodworking, because I don't have to build templates to do repeated or precise slots, holes, etc.  On the other end of the scale, I have the "sensitive drill chuck" for drilling a #80 hole.
 
One of the nice things about having full size machines is that I can build the table-top machines myself.  Hopefully, later this week I'll share some pics of a small table saw that fits on a Taig lathe.
 

I just saw the picture in the first post.  By coincidence, I have the same setup on my mill, but it's on a full size knee mill, not a table-top.   I do research for the sawmill industry on saws, and this setup will be used in an experiment I'm doing.   To give some scale, the saw is 7.25 inches diameter.  
 
I also use it for woodworking - it's a great overhead router, although the spindle speed is a bit low.  Like it for woodworking, because I don't have to build templates to do repeated or precise slots, holes, etc.  On the other end of the scale, I have the "sensitive drill chuck" for drilling a #80 hole.
 
One of the nice things about having full size machines is that I can build the table-top machines myself.  Hopefully, later this week I'll share some pics of a small table saw that fits on a Taig lathe.