vossy

Just received an email from Amati regarding your Victory. Seems we may all have good reason to start getting excited!
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

I will definitely contact them. Given you designed her, drew the scale plans etc. do you still retain any ownership to the model? Could you not sell her as part of your current venture? As for cost; Amati are kidding themselves if they think junkies like us wont spend the big bucks on things of rare quality and beauty such as this! Sure, its not a kit that will fly out the door in the hundreds, but I bet more than a few on here alone would buy it.
 
Any chance you could maybe post a few more pics of your design in stages/completion? Fully understand if for copyright reasons etc. you cannot. Thanks for your work.
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

Wow! Thank you for these pics Chris. Any idea if/when a release date? Price etc? How come if you completed the proto type 4 years ago she still isn't released? What would be the overall dimensions of such a beast? Sorry for all the questions. Stunning work! I want one!
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

Any pics, other info etc?
 

Hi all, I was just wondering, is Caldrcraft (1:72 version) the go to kit for Victory freaks? Is it the most detailed/accurate on the market? Indeed, is it the largest? Anyone know of any others to rival Caldercraft's version or any planned by other manufacturers in the pipeline?
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

To me the number 1 golden rule is: build a subject you are interested in.
 
Doesn't matter the kit level difficulty. If you are inspired, and invested in your particular vessel you will turn out a fine model.
 
You will study her more, learn more techniques to complete unknown processes, and most importantly, she wont be an abandoned project.
 
My first model was Amati Santa Maria. I was, and still remain, a Columbus freak. I had zero idea of building a wooden ship, but I was in never any doubt that once I got that kit I was never going to let my hero down by ditching her mid build.
 
Sure, my version isn't the best build of her going around, however, I did finish her, and along the way picked up many, ok 1000's, of tips that have since helped me produce other more complex models.
 
Had I not chosen a vessel I was so emotionally invested in I doubt I would have completed her, and hence any builds since.
 
So, for me, its 100% about a subject you are passionate about. Who cares if you buy Caldercraft Victory and it takes you 20 years to finish her? If you love her you will. And that should be the aim of anyone who begins this journey.
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

To me the number 1 golden rule is: build a subject you are interested in.
 
Doesn't matter the kit level difficulty. If you are inspired, and invested in your particular vessel you will turn out a fine model.
 
You will study her more, learn more techniques to complete unknown processes, and most importantly, she wont be an abandoned project.
 
My first model was Amati Santa Maria. I was, and still remain, a Columbus freak. I had zero idea of building a wooden ship, but I was in never any doubt that once I got that kit I was never going to let my hero down by ditching her mid build.
 
Sure, my version isn't the best build of her going around, however, I did finish her, and along the way picked up many, ok 1000's, of tips that have since helped me produce other more complex models.
 
Had I not chosen a vessel I was so emotionally invested in I doubt I would have completed her, and hence any builds since.
 
So, for me, its 100% about a subject you are passionate about. Who cares if you buy Caldercraft Victory and it takes you 20 years to finish her? If you love her you will. And that should be the aim of anyone who begins this journey.
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

any Australian suppliers/stockists for this?
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

any Australian suppliers/stockists for this?
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

To me the number 1 golden rule is: build a subject you are interested in.
 
Doesn't matter the kit level difficulty. If you are inspired, and invested in your particular vessel you will turn out a fine model.
 
You will study her more, learn more techniques to complete unknown processes, and most importantly, she wont be an abandoned project.
 
My first model was Amati Santa Maria. I was, and still remain, a Columbus freak. I had zero idea of building a wooden ship, but I was in never any doubt that once I got that kit I was never going to let my hero down by ditching her mid build.
 
Sure, my version isn't the best build of her going around, however, I did finish her, and along the way picked up many, ok 1000's, of tips that have since helped me produce other more complex models.
 
Had I not chosen a vessel I was so emotionally invested in I doubt I would have completed her, and hence any builds since.
 
So, for me, its 100% about a subject you are passionate about. Who cares if you buy Caldercraft Victory and it takes you 20 years to finish her? If you love her you will. And that should be the aim of anyone who begins this journey.
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

To me the number 1 golden rule is: build a subject you are interested in.
 
Doesn't matter the kit level difficulty. If you are inspired, and invested in your particular vessel you will turn out a fine model.
 
You will study her more, learn more techniques to complete unknown processes, and most importantly, she wont be an abandoned project.
 
My first model was Amati Santa Maria. I was, and still remain, a Columbus freak. I had zero idea of building a wooden ship, but I was in never any doubt that once I got that kit I was never going to let my hero down by ditching her mid build.
 
Sure, my version isn't the best build of her going around, however, I did finish her, and along the way picked up many, ok 1000's, of tips that have since helped me produce other more complex models.
 
Had I not chosen a vessel I was so emotionally invested in I doubt I would have completed her, and hence any builds since.
 
So, for me, its 100% about a subject you are passionate about. Who cares if you buy Caldercraft Victory and it takes you 20 years to finish her? If you love her you will. And that should be the aim of anyone who begins this journey.
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

To me the number 1 golden rule is: build a subject you are interested in.
 
Doesn't matter the kit level difficulty. If you are inspired, and invested in your particular vessel you will turn out a fine model.
 
You will study her more, learn more techniques to complete unknown processes, and most importantly, she wont be an abandoned project.
 
My first model was Amati Santa Maria. I was, and still remain, a Columbus freak. I had zero idea of building a wooden ship, but I was in never any doubt that once I got that kit I was never going to let my hero down by ditching her mid build.
 
Sure, my version isn't the best build of her going around, however, I did finish her, and along the way picked up many, ok 1000's, of tips that have since helped me produce other more complex models.
 
Had I not chosen a vessel I was so emotionally invested in I doubt I would have completed her, and hence any builds since.
 
So, for me, its 100% about a subject you are passionate about. Who cares if you buy Caldercraft Victory and it takes you 20 years to finish her? If you love her you will. And that should be the aim of anyone who begins this journey.
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

Will be pleased to follow this Eric after a long absence from myself. Looks like you are making great progress and detailing any problems a lot of kits present for future builders.
 
Cheers
 
Chris

Will be pleased to follow this Eric after a long absence from myself. Looks like you are making great progress and detailing any problems a lot of kits present for future builders.
 
Cheers
 
Chris

Will be pleased to follow this Eric after a long absence from myself. Looks like you are making great progress and detailing any problems a lot of kits present for future builders.
 
Cheers
 
Chris

To me the number 1 golden rule is: build a subject you are interested in.
 
Doesn't matter the kit level difficulty. If you are inspired, and invested in your particular vessel you will turn out a fine model.
 
You will study her more, learn more techniques to complete unknown processes, and most importantly, she wont be an abandoned project.
 
My first model was Amati Santa Maria. I was, and still remain, a Columbus freak. I had zero idea of building a wooden ship, but I was in never any doubt that once I got that kit I was never going to let my hero down by ditching her mid build.
 
Sure, my version isn't the best build of her going around, however, I did finish her, and along the way picked up many, ok 1000's, of tips that have since helped me produce other more complex models.
 
Had I not chosen a vessel I was so emotionally invested in I doubt I would have completed her, and hence any builds since.
 
So, for me, its 100% about a subject you are passionate about. Who cares if you buy Caldercraft Victory and it takes you 20 years to finish her? If you love her you will. And that should be the aim of anyone who begins this journey.
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

Hmmm??? Wife/Victory, wife/Victory, wife/Victory..... Do you have cable and a fridge in the garage?
 

I will definitely contact them. Given you designed her, drew the scale plans etc. do you still retain any ownership to the model? Could you not sell her as part of your current venture? As for cost; Amati are kidding themselves if they think junkies like us wont spend the big bucks on things of rare quality and beauty such as this! Sure, its not a kit that will fly out the door in the hundreds, but I bet more than a few on here alone would buy it.
 
Any chance you could maybe post a few more pics of your design in stages/completion? Fully understand if for copyright reasons etc. you cannot. Thanks for your work.
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

Wow! Thank you for these pics Chris. Any idea if/when a release date? Price etc? How come if you completed the proto type 4 years ago she still isn't released? What would be the overall dimensions of such a beast? Sorry for all the questions. Stunning work! I want one!
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

place and clamp the plank in as near to exact position as possible whilst it is wet/damp. allow to dry (I usually leave overnight), then glue in place. some extremely minor movement maybe required prior to final dry gluing, but not too much as to break the plank.
 
Never glue damp or wet planks. it results in the glue being diluted, and thus not creating as strong a bond as you would desire and expect.
 
also, wood expands and contracts when it is damp. once it is dry, it will hold its shape better.
 
chris
 

Hi Ron,
 
how about getting some ultra thin strips and planking over it? You can get strips so thin they are almost like paper. If it was me, I would be trying to keep it unpainted. Strips will cost next to nothing, and if you muck it up, then paint it. If you do have to paint it however, I would go for a brownish base and try to weather it a bit. Be more realistic I reckon.
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

Ok, some news.
 
The laser and photo-etch parts are now being produced. As around 7yrs had elapsed since Chris completed this, the laser cutting company had made changes to its equipment, meaning the sheets had to be a different size. Some work was done to move all the parts around to fit the new sizes. There were a few questions about certain aspects of the design, but we are now there.
 
Amati hope to have the parts (both laser and PE) with them in around 10 days, so if that goes to plan, I should have everything in 2-3 weeks, and I can start a build log here as I create the work needed for the instruction manuals. There will be at least two shiny, perfect-bound books for this....possibly three. Having spent 7 months pouring over Chris's original manual, I think there will be around 1500+ images needed, perhaps more. That will be interlaced with some extracts from the drawings too. 
 
I know many folk are wanting this kit, so I promise to work as quickly as I can to complete everything up to where masting is needed. Masting and rig will be done via the plan sheets, as is traditional. 
 

Hello all,
 
More work done this week on my Chaperon. I completed the installation of the pilot house and its stairway along with a "battery" crate that will hide the 9v battery for the lights.
 
I have to admit, I am a little bit ashamed of myself for not planning this one out a little better. My thinking when I first started this build was to use an external power source for the lighting much like I did for my KotM build. But as things progressed I decided that I would just go with battery power instead. I would run all of my wires up to the Texas deck and terminate them there. I was going to make the pilot house removable so the battery could be changed out when needed. This was the plan all the way up until this week when I realized the when I was installing the magnets to hold the pilot house in place that there is a whole slew of rigging and tie downs that are attached to the structure, and there was no way that I was going to remove all of that to swap out batteries.
 
Here is the pilot house magnets going in.


 
Magnets in place and the Texas deck roof being glued down.

It was at this point that I realized this wasn't going to work. So I came up with an alternative solution. I wanted to add a touch of life to the model by adding supplies to the decks, much like the crates I built for the main deck earlier in the build, so I figured that a nice big crate and some hay bales would work to conceal the battery . Here is what I came up with.
The crate I made from spare planking strips and leftover plywood.

 
I snaked the wiring down from the Texas deck to come out the side of the Main deck wall. Added a little aging to the crate with a small torch and some golden oak stain.

 
Placed a connector on the wires and attached some small magnets to the crate to hold it in place, but still be removable.

 
Threw on a few miniature hay bales and here is what I ended up with. Once I get to installing the bull rails, I will make a couple of them as panels to they can also be removed to get to the battery crate.

 
Next I worked on the pilot house stairs and got them installed.




 
Stairs and walkway in place. I just need to finish tying together the railings and I'll be done with this portion. 

 
And here is how she sits right now.  My next step is to clean up my work bench. I didn't realize it until I posted this picture how messy it was. Sure didn't take it long to get this way.

 
Now to work on the pilot house tie downs and the chimneys (after I tidy things up a bit).
 
As always, thank you for the likes and for looking.
 
-Brian
 

I've painted the hull.  Two boats ago, I got fed up with spray paint because of the unavoidable mess it makes in my workroom (spray particles out from the spray area and onto the floor), and problems with tracking it out of there and into the house.  Can spray outside in summer, but not in winter (which is much of the time here in Boston.
 
So this is brushed on with a foam brush and 5 coats of white and 5 coats of red.  Looks good up close, and no mess!
 
Regards,
David

Has anyone used these?
On the last cruise we went on I saw these stirring sticks for your coffee.  Look them up on the internet and found they were made of birch.  Grabbed a bunch and will see if I can use them on the future build of the Mayflower II I plan on building after the HMS Victory build.  I used similar sticks but much thinner for the decking on the Victory build. They look pretty good quality.    To buy, they are less then $8 per thousand.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Biodegradable-Birch-Beverage-Stirring-Compostable/dp/B07ZDJCJCJ/ref=asc_df_B07ZDJCJCJ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385174789119&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6006631387319116463&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9024577&hvtargid=pla-851211953503&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81511521074&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385174789119&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6006631387319116463&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9024577&hvtargid=pla-851211953503