AndrewNaylor

Now that is a good looking well made very useful tool 

Thank you Sir for all your hard work on this article very interesting indeed I especialy liked the bent trees We have the same in the UK in the Royal Parks called "Chained trees" as the limbs where bent with chains to shape them 
Than you again 

Wonderful Doris
You have found another beautiful ship to build in front of your spell bound audiance , Hours of fantastic viewing ahead for one and all.
Welcome back and thank you so much
Andy

Look on YouTube for "Keith Appleton" he makes wonderful videos about building small steam engines many play lists and a great sense of Yorkshire humor 
and has built many steam launches etc well worth many hours of viewing on cold damp winter evenings 
Andy

Now that is a good looking well made very useful tool 

A Little tar on the feet of crew is "their" problem. Now the cost of replacing rotting ratlines well that's the "Admiralties" problem and so they would have been Tar'd to save the Shilling
Thats my pennies worth
Andy

Go through the build logs 
Find a small single masted ship you like, that way you will have a lot of advise and pictures ready to help you through 
The learning curve is not to steep your last plank will be your best as you have got over the gluing your fingers together stage hopefully 
Rigging is frustrating but very rewarding 
Just enjoy and you will be well rewarded 
I sold my 4th model for $2800 dollars it cost me around $800 in kit, paints, tools, and display case plus a hundreds of hour of my spare time  but I still have a smile on my face 

Wonderful Doris
You have found another beautiful ship to build in front of your spell bound audiance , Hours of fantastic viewing ahead for one and all.
Welcome back and thank you so much
Andy

Go through the build logs 
Find a small single masted ship you like, that way you will have a lot of advise and pictures ready to help you through 
The learning curve is not to steep your last plank will be your best as you have got over the gluing your fingers together stage hopefully 
Rigging is frustrating but very rewarding 
Just enjoy and you will be well rewarded 
I sold my 4th model for $2800 dollars it cost me around $800 in kit, paints, tools, and display case plus a hundreds of hour of my spare time  but I still have a smile on my face 

A beautifully detailed build log from start to finish, It just goes to show what a gorgeous model a little skill and a fantastic kit can produce
very well done.

Now that is a good looking well made very useful tool 

Sandor 
If you use a small vice, smooth jaws are a must as knurled faced jaws will mark your brass. A light flat faced hammer will easily bend the brass over and will create a sharp 90' bend for you Cut the pieces to length before bending as cutting after the bend is in will not work well at all even drilling any holes is much easier while the material is flat. If you are making a few of the same item's make a jig in the vice jaws to ensure the parts all fold at the same point.
Andy 

Needle point and boat building all that to keep the Admiral happy 
great build very interesting

Hi 
I am still waiting for my replacement kit due to the wing size issue been waiting 3 months now. Any how I have followed your build with great interest as Inhiope the start my kit soon How did you make the front engine cowl? I have just seen it on your last posting but can not recall seeing you talk about how you formed it the kit I received has a flat round sheet and requires some serious work!!!!!
great build 
Andy

Thanks for all your support in this But unfortunately my very brief time at home is over and back on the yacht tonight heading to Maine/ Nova Scotia/Newfound land for the summer early Fall so I closed the shipyard/Hanger down for a few months
I can watch but no more building
Andy

I have 3 wings of decreeing size from the bottom up All 3 wings are short That is why after checking they where all going to be short I assumed that I was not to build off the drawings and then built the aileron off a different drawing thats when I discovered my problem 
Oh well all good practice for the next try !!!!!

Thank you both for your help and support
Not trying to hijack this fantastic build 
The parts where to small to build over the drawings, as I had on the Wright flyer years ago
All 3 wings are equally short so that is why i thought it was an of drawing build as the 3rd picture show's
ME have received an email with Pics and waiting for a reply, which I am sure is coming They have served me well in the past 
Torbogdan did you build your wings off the drawing and did they fit?
I feel the Lazer cutter had the wrong input when it started burning !!! 
But I do love these kits and have started the Sopworth Camel to fill my time 
Great kits and hanging from s thin wire from the ceiling a fantastic talking point 
 

Good Afternoon Torbogdan
I am also building the Dr1 but not as far ahead as you are . I have just finished 1 of the Aileron and held it up to the wing It appears to over hang the wing by 1/2 an inch
The completed wing is an 1 inch shorter than the drawing shows but the aileron is the correct size Does your wing Aileron fit as the plan shows?
I have attached some pictures 
any help would be greatly received 
Thanks Andy

Go through the build logs 
Find a small single masted ship you like, that way you will have a lot of advise and pictures ready to help you through 
The learning curve is not to steep your last plank will be your best as you have got over the gluing your fingers together stage hopefully 
Rigging is frustrating but very rewarding 
Just enjoy and you will be well rewarded 
I sold my 4th model for $2800 dollars it cost me around $800 in kit, paints, tools, and display case plus a hundreds of hour of my spare time  but I still have a smile on my face 

"Stunning I am truly lost for words
Thank you so much
Andy

Hi Phil - If you contact piratepete007 he can answer any question you have about Euromodel.  He writes the building instructions for their kits & is a member of this forum. He was extremely helpful to me when I was building the Royal William.  I can tell you the Euromodel plans are probably the best you will find - very accurate & well detailed.  I have not dealt with Euromodel directly,but I believe they are a quality company that cares about their customers & would not hesitate to buy from them.
 
Mark

I’ve dealt with Euromodel twice, and they have been nothing short of fantastic.  The first time was to buy one of their lion figureheads because I was building the Lyme using the Corel Unicorn kit.  The second was to ask them about replacing a missing plan sheet and warped keel on a used La Renommee kit that I had picked up on eBay.
 
Not sure if he is still there, but Massimo was such a nice guy to deal with.  Just be aware that they are shut down in August believe for the Italian summer holiday.
 
I wouldn’t hesitate to buy from them.  I agree with Mark that the Euromodel plans are among the best out there, very detailed.  And Pete’s built notes are an invaluable resource.

A great build for new guys and galls and very well presented I am sure you will bring many more shipyards into the fold 
thanks 
Andy

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 309 – Foremast Top-hamper 2
 
I mentioned in the last post that the topmost pole mast and the two upper yards were to be installed with most of the rigging fitted at the bench.  The first picture shows the assembly erected on the topgallant crosstrees.
 

The two forward stays – the royal and the skysail – have been threaded down through the bowsprit, but most of the other lines are dangling in a tangle - as yet unconnected.  The running rigging lines – clew-lines, buntlines, leechlines, and skysail sheets – all of which are quite long - are coiled to avoid a real tangle.  The next step was to run the standing rigging lines to their connection points to clear some of the mess.  In the next picture the lifts on the two upper yards are rigged and the backstays for the upper mast sections have been run – but not yet connected.
 

The arrows point to the royal standing lift, the royal backstay and the skysail backstay on the port side.  In the next picture the skysail sheets below the royal yard have been run and the clew-lines for both yards are being rigged. 
 

These lines serve to pull the yards down on the lifts.  Arrows point to the clew-lines that attach to the chain sheets.  All these lines pass down through the fairleads in the top and belay on the main deck rails.  Once the yards were held down, the halyards were passed through their mast sheaves and secured to their central sling bands on both yards.  In the next picture the arrow points to the dangling royal halyard chain that runs down from the mast sheave, and will eventually be connected to a tackle to the deck.
 

 
This picture also shows the royal shroud pairs.  These run from the masthead down through holes at the ends of the crosstrees and are seized to eyes on the topgallant mast band in the lower part of the picture.  The next picture shows the upper mast backstays connected to the deadeyes on the starboard channel
 

Starting from the skid beam and working aft, the channel connections are – the wire for the standing end upper topsail halyard, the two topmast backstays, the tackle block for the skysail halyard, the topgallant backstay, the royal backstay, and finally the skysail backstay.  The deadeyes and lanyards on these standing lines decrease in size down to 6" diameter and 1 1/2" rope size, respectively.  The lanyards on the last three backstays will be tied off later once the tensions are set – and the mast made vertical.
 
The next picture shows the bunt and leechlines rigged on the royal yard. 
 

 
The skysail has only lifts, halyard and clewlines.  Except for the truck at the top of the mast, some neglected ratlines on the topgallant shrouds, and a couple dozen rope coils on the pin rails, the foremast rigging is now complete.  Braces are being saved for last.  The next two pictures show the mast at this stage.
 

 

This was a lot of rigging to sort out.  I hope the descriptions are not too confusing.  On the remaining masts I will use this same process, but leave off the clew, bunt, and leech lines  to be done in place.  Coiling these small cotton ropes results in a lot of fuzz when they are untangled and stretched out.  I had to replace a couple. Rigging these in place reduces this problem.  I have also begun treating cotton lines with diluted pva to further reduce fuzz.  More on this later.
 
Ed

With all due respect to the shipwright assistant : Nice Job on the planking B.E. ! Many of us (me included) would settle for this.
Looking forward to the treenailing chapter