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jbshan

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Everything posted by jbshan

  1. jbshan
    It doesn't have to be hot to form a head. It doesn't have to have heads both ends to be a bolt. They have found wrecks with square iron 'bolts' driven through, more like a very large spike.
  2. jbshan
    They might be called 'main/fore mast pendants'. I found some descriptions of their use in Harland, Seamanship in the Age of Sail.
  3. jbshan
    Pardon the spelling of a non-native British speaker, but 'good on yer, mate!' I think we sometimes overlook the possibilities of non-specialized sources for our stuff.
  4. jbshan
    I did a little looking around and found that Longridge, Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, asserts, on good authority that he doesn't cite, a top down placement of the copper plates on warships of the Royal Navy. Other sources, equally secondary, are somewhat ambiguous. I can see in some photos that the laps seem to have the lower plate overlapping the upper. I do wonder, though, how the pattern of the different runs of plates could have been derived from a top down placement. There is a run parallel to the keel which continues run by run up the hull until the runs end with a crescent shape at the waterline or just below where several runs are parallel to the waterline to finish off. I wonder if the placement might be bottom up, but the lap not closed until the next run is placed and the lap put bottom over the top run.
  5. jbshan
    Lionfish is right. You want the overlaps pointing aft, not forward, so the water flows over them not into. Think if a roof had the shingles the other way and all the water could get caught under the rows instead of running from one to the next. Stern to bow, and keel to waterline.
  6. jbshan
    Jotika has some instructons and plans sets available online, but not HMS Mars. Definitely contact them.
  7. jbshan
    What popeye said. I can't think why you would put riding bitts on a deck that didn't have the anchor cable. The legs would extend a deck further down, but if there is no cable to put on the bitts... Later: I checked my Bellona (AOS) book and the riding bitts are on the same deck as the hawse holes, the lower gun deck, and their legs extend to the level of the keelson. There are fore sheet and fore jeer bitts on the forecastle deck with legs extending to the upper gun deck where the stove is located.
  8. jbshan
    Yes, and yes. You would hook a tackle into these pendants to hoist loads and they would normally be lashed to a shroud when not in use.
  9. jbshan
    Bensid, I think the 3D printer has a long way to go to catch up.
  10. jbshan
    The Lumberyard semi-kit of Lexington consists of lots of really nice wood, yes, but you also get the conventional 'egg crate' of POB construction. The woods included are boxwood, swiss pear, maple and small amounts of ebony and apple. Click on my avatar, go to topics and my model of Lexington from dLumberyard is there. You'll maybe have to be creative about plans. The ones I have were blown up from the magazine. Instructions also you'll have to go back to the magazine, and there was a yahoo group for builders as Dr. Feldman worked things through.
  11. jbshan
    Any Lexington based on Charles Davis' published instructions from the 1930s, which I believe is all of them except the Lumberyard semi-kit recently featured in Ships in Scale magazine, is based on a British Cruiser-class brig. If you want a representation of the American vessel, go with the Lumberyard/Ships in Scale version. If you are willing to do a British version, don't call it Lexington and get the Caldercraft model of the Cruiser Class vessel. I believe they are both 1:64 scale.
  12. jbshan
    They just last summer hauled Constitution out for repair. There was a discussion of that here somewhere, with some pics. I don't recall her copper was 'pink', but she spends most of her time tied up with no movement of the water over her plating to scour it clean. From the museum page you can access a blog with lots of pics. https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org
  13. jbshan
    Just curious: Would there have been a riser below these foot boards? It would have supported the ends nicely and given a locator for the later modelmaker.
  14. jbshan
    Looks better now, Mike. There was 'something' before but couldn't put my finger on it.
  15. jbshan
    Mike, just glue a chunk on there, maybe with a tiny dowel up from the end, and re-shape until it fits correctly.
  16. jbshan
    I've looked at some of those links. Druxey, is your middle name 'Grinling'?
  17. jbshan
    This is a range cleat on Constitution. Some were much larger. Kevels and staghorns are similar in shape to each other, with curved top 'horns'.
  18. jbshan
    They're just holes for the line to run through. A pair of dotted lines in the middle of a spar means one hole, following the direction of the lines. The dumb sheave at the end of the spar is basically a groove, again shaped to match the line on the plans. They're 'dumb' because they don't have a turning pulley, much as a light is 'dead' if it's solid and doesn't let light through. Glad you've made preparations for structures under the deck. I could see only bad things coming. A sharp scalpel might come in handy there, with holes drilled at the corners as stops.
  19. jbshan
    Mike, I saw your post on nibbing the margin plank. I did mine as I was planking the deck and was able to lift the margin and deck plank in and out to get the fit right, one plank at a time. You already have your deck plank together and I didn't think my method would have been any help to you so didn't say anything. Yes, you'll want to use shorter sections for the margin plank and use hook scarphs between sections. I believe the plans show this. When it comes time to place any deck structures, since you don't have any sub deck and no supports under the deck where the structures, bitts, etc. will come, I have to assume you'll shape the underside of the hatches, houses, etc. to match the curve of the deck at that spot, yes? If you try to cut the plank again, as you found with the mast holes, you'll probably have to do more repairs as some of the cuts will be close to an end, and some will result in a long skinny piece remaining.
  20. jbshan
    If the hammock rail was too short to take a full length folded hammock, they would lay them in on a slant: |/////////|/////////|/////////| I found examples from later on, after photography had been invented, showing both types, though the railings had mostly been boarded in by then. Yes, the photos were clear enough to show the rolled-up form of the hammocks. What you see on my rail is the fold itself and a bit of the lashing. Mine is 3 ft. because it is along the gangway. Had there been no gangway it could easily been shorter, as on Niagara.
  21. jbshan
    Druxey talked me through a yawl in 1:64 a few years ago using a similar method. Even with my unskilled efforts, it is astounding how egg shell-like the hull is. Of course he finished his four boats he was doing far before I finished my one. :-)
  22. jbshan
    Yes, the details are blow-ups and not always in the 'parent' scale, if that is the proper term.
  23. jbshan
    You might take a look at this page: http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Hammock+Rail+Constructed I would say a max of 3 ft tall, since if the hammocks are folded in half, if they are straight up and down you get 3 ft. If the rail is shorter, the hammocks can be put on a slant.
  24. jbshan
    If you can discover the order in which it was done originally, you are half way there. Darcy Lever, 'The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor', available in an inexpensive Dover reprint, takes most of this stuff step-by step. Model Expo has this book, I believe, and also places like Amazon, Alibris and Abebooks. Don't pay more than about $20.
  25. jbshan
    ...strap pintles and grudgeons were departures from contemporary fishing schooners." So if the strap pintles and grudgeons where not used previously, what method did they use before this to mount the rudders? They'd been used for hundreds of years on 'real' ships. Perhaps you're looking for something lightweight? I've seen a lower eye and pintle combined with an upper eye and long rod on a ship's boat, so it could be unshipped yet remain in place if it floated a bit. If the earlier type was intended to be beached maybe they had a removable rudder?

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