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jbshan

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Everything posted by jbshan

  1. jbshan
    No name and home port on the stern? Just kidding. This is a nice little model, and I'm still put in mind of a seagull sitting on the water.
  2. jbshan
    It would most resemble a piece of furniture in that time frame. Think of a dining room sideboard. There would be compass(es) and a lamp. A large one might have compartments for maps, the log line, that sort of thing. SOS, there were not many 18th century ships with engine controls. This one is made of wood and brass and lashed to the deck, to brass eyebolts. You don't want any iron anywhere near the compasses. N. B.: If you don't get a quick answer, it may be that it was overtaken by a lot of other posts and nobody saw it, not that you are being ignored, or that nobody knows the answer. I check usually two or three times a day and have no recollection of seeing bluenose2's post.
  3. jbshan
    And my source for a date of 1805 for quarter davits is Brian Lavery, 'Arming and Fitting'. I was going to check Harland, but Lavery seemed definitive.
  4. jbshan
    As definitely not a savant, I'm checking my books, but I don't think you would absolutely find the quarter davits much before 1810. OK, have checked. According to a reliable source, you could find quarter davits 'certainly' by 1805, apparently earlier on larger ships than on smaller. Yes, Mark, I think the davits would swing out to clear the side (remember there's a lot of tumblehome) and then the boat be lowered. There would probably be a couple of men ride it down to breast it clear, then the crew would come down the tackle falls. The boat wouldn't be strong enough, nor the tackle, to have the full weight of crew, boat and gear all in while being lowered.
  5. jbshan
    Not to be a brat, here is a picture of Resolution and Discovery by Cleveley. 2 things to note. The ensign is fairly large, more than 2/3 of the staff. This may be the extreme breadth size. At anchor the normal size would have been one of the smaller ones, I believe, but there is this picture. In any event, the Jack would have been sized from the largest flag carried, so half the extreme breadth in the fly. The theory of the largest size was to have it recognizable from some miles away. Even if it was not clear in the glass, the basic color arrangement would be and you could tell friend from foe at several miles.
  6. jbshan
    One rule of thumb is that a warship's largest ensign, in the fly (the long dimension) is equal to the extreme breadth of the vessel, the hoist being in proportion to that depending on the time period. They got longer or less square with time. The jack would be the same size as the union on the largest ensign. They carried several sizes of ensign, the smaller ones being equal in the fly to the next largest in the hoist. That all sounds pretty complicated but it was more complex even that that as the sizes were based on 'breadths' of cloth, and suits of flags were issued to each ship in more or less standard sizes which might or might not exactly match the guidelines, and this is all RN practice, not particularly universal though the RN served as a pattern for many.
  7. jbshan
    At least now you know that you don't have to throw out the old frames to get them rounder. You can just glue extra padding on the outside and reshape by sanding.
  8. jbshan
    Shipaholic's netting would be to hold the staysail when it is not set. Reference David Antscherl's 'Fully Framed Model'.
  9. jbshan
    I looked at several renditions; my guess would be 16 to 18 feet, not more than 20 feet, exclusive of the upturned prow and stern. Why would he need to be only 6 feet? He could be a little bigger, yes? To overawe his passengers?
  10. jbshan
    Two lights- check. I see a third something just below the color change on the mast. Is that a bell? From the photo, the wooden bitts are clearly back from the prow.
  11. jbshan
    You should probably add one more mast light as three white lights is the correct signal for a tug and tow. I was just browsing through tugs on Navsource and saw masts with three.
  12. jbshan
    Glue- for most porous things, plain old white Elmer's glue. Let it dry on your fingers and just rub it off. Isopropyl alcohol 90% will soften it so you can cut and scrape it away (places like around your rail on the deckhouse) and other squeezeouts. Let it sit a minute and it gets soft. You'll learn with time, just be patient with the alk. A lot of people use yellow wood glue also, but I don't think you can use the alcohol on it. Chainplates- Sometimes those strap chainplates are entirely within the planking and don't show except where they connect to the deadeye straps. Wire-Piano wire might work, a friend of mine used wire from the wire brushes from his son's drum set. Stayed really straight for radio antennas. Whatever suits your needs, it doesn't have to come from a hobby shop.
  13. jbshan
    Ohh, it's still a problem, you just get to obsess over smaller and smaller pieces.
  14. jbshan
    No. It's a long and complicated process. You can even quench the hot metal and it will stay soft and workable. Google it if you like.
  15. jbshan
    I discovered that the only method open to the non-commercial metal worker was to work-harden the brass. http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Copper+Tempering
  16. jbshan
    I got the carronade model plus a long gun. See my build log here <http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Projects> I placed my carronade on the quarterdeck, so any spikes or trunnels would be plugged with the grain running with the plank and thus not very noticeable. By the scale of the model, your trunnels should be only about half what they seem to be.
  17. jbshan
    The letters were a prayer everybody knew, written on both bonnet and course. Just match up the letters. SANTAROSADOMINEPATRIA and, on the bonnet: SANTAROSADOMINEPATRIA
  18. jbshan
    Anthony Deane begins with the number and size of the guns on the gun deck. That determines, with the size of the port openings and their spacing, plus some length added fore and aft, the length of the ship. The number of guns determines the scantlings of the frame members and their spacing, and so on and so on.
  19. jbshan
    Silver soldering is done with a torch, in order to get to those high temps. If you really get into it, and work a lot with metals, there are different temps available; you start an assembly with the hottest, then the next joint a little lower, then a little lower, so you don't melt previous work as the assembly grows. The versa tip looks like a butane powered iron so probably used for soft solder, and though it may heat up quicker and be small and handy, roughly comparable to the big weller type. So you see, this is another where the answer is 'it depends'.
  20. jbshan
    An xacto razor saw works pretty well. Cut long and trim back with a very sharp chisel-shaped blade. I use this handle with the #18 blade.
  21. jbshan
    It totally depends on what type of soldering you want to do.
  22. jbshan
    You have some of the best plans and instructions in the business. When you decide to go another way, please be careful and consider carefully.
  23. jbshan
    Yes, toward the ends you will need two-piece frames, as was done in the original. The foot boards are totally correct. They run lengthwise. While some types of boats are traditionally clinker, they could easily have been done carvel also, especially if done by Navy personnel. This was considered easier to repair 'in the field' and more in keeping with the carvel that was used everywhere else. Later, with the steam ships you would be more likely to find clinker built, perhaps a bit of the carpenters showing off.
  24. jbshan
    The frames inside your boats should be about 1/32" X 1/32". Take a much longer length than needed to go all the way around the bottom and come up the other side (maybe a couple of inches each side) and wrap it in a wet paper towel then put that in the microwave. While it is hot, form it around your finger or other suitable round shape (pill bottle maybe) until it will go in. Let it cool and dry before trying to glue it in. Carvel plank boats at this scale would be merely smooth. Clinker would show, but do you really want to beat yourself up trying that? It is just as likely they would be done carvel as well. When doing my Niagara boats I was advised you should be able to see a light through the hull, all over evenly. Planks for the hull would be in the neighborhood of 1/64", so thickish paper might work if you have the carved hull to work with as a base. When done, your boats should remind you of a hollow egg.
  25. jbshan
    That may be where the claim of 600 men aboard came from as if an enemy vessel was sunk the (English) victor could claim a bounty based on the number aboard at the commencement of the action.

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