amateur
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Everything posted by amateur
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Humbroll or Revell enamel paint will do the job. Be caefull with amonia: it does balcken, but it also corrodes the material quite rapidly. The blackened stuff is far more brittle than the untreated material (at least, it was when I tried ammonia as blackener) Jan
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I once read that someone bought the book, and considered buying a second one as his admiral wanted (almost demanded) it on the coffeetable, and not on the bookshelf in his shipyard.... Jan
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- Bernard Frolich
- The art of ship modeling
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Hi Piet, The model was on display last year when I was in Rotterdam. So the fact that I have it, is just coincidence. By the way: Padmos's scrollwork is not painted in fake gold or real gold, but in yellow ochre (and the inside of the gunports is the usual red). Jan
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The pic is terrible, as the lighting conditions were bad, and flash wasn't allowed..... But this is one of the gunportframes on Padmos. It has not even a twisted rope, it is just plain. (especially when compared to her very elaborate stern) Jan
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double hulled super boat, bit out of his comfort zone Jan
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Actually, the scrollwork around those square ports is not too fancy. Given the fact that your stern is more in the basic 16th century style, you should not overdo the lining of the gunports Jan
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Thanks Cap'n! Jan
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With respect to your gunports: Take a look at these pictures. It's Padmos/Blijdorp, both heavily armed early 18th century VOC-ships. No gunlids at all on the upper deck, but square gunports, lined with some fancy sroll-work, http://maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getdetail&id=100085352 The same setup is found on e.g. Valkenisse and some others from the period. http://www.seawatchbooks.com/107001 (not to let you buy the book, but because of the picture over there) You may go forth with filling in the gunport rabets with some painted scrollwerk, and end up with something perfectly fitting in with the period, and at the same time, minimizing the probability Mr M. doing some great harm to your ship. Jan
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Your chainplates are womnderfull. I did once "complain" on Mark I, but the feel and looks of Mark 2 definitely more to the self made ones. Jan
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Thanks guys, I understand: Space and scale are the determining factors. When you say: not good in tight corners, what is (more or less) the minimum radius a band saw can do? Jan
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Hi there, The admiral told me not to, but I'm thinking of a scratchbuild (sometime in the hazy, distant future) One of the questions I keep asking myself: for doing frames, stems, deckbeams, rudders and the like should I buy a scrollsaw, or should I buy a bandsaw? My workspace is hardly large enough for one of these, so don't tell me to buy both (please....) (btw not only my worksspace is limited, all other is also, so I'm probably ending up at the smaller scales) There was a thread on this on the 'old MSW', but I can't find anything on it here. What should I consider in deciding between the two types of saw? (And yeah, I know, I should also consider a Byrnes table saw ) Jan
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Paypall isn't very widely used across the European mainland. So I wouldn't expect that it is available. Last year, I paid by creditcard. I got mine within a week. (but the Netherlands are not too far from France ) Jan
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He only needs to know whether or not his admiral is one of those 5000+ Jan
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My impression always was that the emblems were painted on the sails. Which suggests: seams visible. Jan
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How to Attach the Mast to the Yard?
amateur replied to mkmossop's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Wouldn't be too sure about that: in the 1600's the left one (or variations on it) is assumed to be used on Dutch ships. Jan -
Danny, It's like you made more efforts in disguising/photoshopping this ship than we will in searching for her First impression is 'tsunami', but that probably the effect you're after..... Jan
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Anja, These parts are called 'channel(s)', ('rust', in your native tongue) Chainplates are the iron parts that hold the dead eyes in place. (in Rotterdam and surroundings better known as 'puttingijzers') Jan
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Grant, It is money well spent Jan
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Thank for the reply. Taking a crown might be correct, but who knows... perhaps it was just empty, and that's why they put the feathers in Jan
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Wrong class. Found the correct one: just to make sure, do you really, really want me to mention all 62 of them Jan
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What's wrong with PoW-feathers? Jan
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WWI destroyer, something like HMS Viking? Jan
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Still, Chuck Passaro let his boards (not the aft and forward platform) go with the lines of the hull... See: http://www.thenrg.org/chuck-passaro---nrg-member-ship-model-photos.php Jan
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Two questions: 1 which type of sculpy do you use 2 how do you guild the baked pieces? and one remark: the 'carvings' look great'. Perhaps you yourself feel that they shouldn't be compared to Doris's, but in a couple of ships time yours will be as good Jan
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And a check is easily done by using a piece of cardboard with a straight red line drawn on i. Place it behind the shrouds, and everywhere were you see red, there's something out of line. Jan
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