demetri

Stays and Backstays

And everything in its place on the deck, except for artillery

Hello to all forum members!
As promised, I post new photos of our tender "AVOS" with the artillery.
 
We are very interested in your opinion, gentlemen
 








 
 

 

Hi, some progress on the bow. Few photos.
 

 

 

Continued.....
 
 

Making a little progress. Made the boarding panels, hammock cranes and boards. Cut a strip of card stock paper and marked the spacing for them off of the instruction sheets. I have had to re-glue these many times as I keep bumping and snagging them. I wonder how much of a problem I'm going to have with these as the build continues.
 
Jesse
 

Noticed that I hadn't done the rudder chains. Started to do it like the instructions say but after reading what Dubz says about this I did it the way he did. 
 
Jesse

After not doing much on the Wasa for a long time, I continued with the cannons.
Having read and looked carefully at the beautiful examples of other Wasa builders, I had a good example on how to attach the blocks and ropes to the cannons for placing them on deck. The 3mm blocks and the 3mm hooks were bought by me at a Czech website, as I had figured out that these parts should be that small indeed. The hooks were actually a bit too narrow with its hook opening, so I had to bent somewhat.
The hole in the hook was therefore very small and I could not insert the medium thickness rope through the hole. As an excape, I used thinner rope to attach the hook to, and then attach this rope to the medium thickness rope. The knot became somewhat large, but still ok. Afterwards I fixated the knots with water diluted wood glue. The ruler is in cm.

The blocks needed some extra drilling with 0.7mm drill to be able to insert the rope. First I prepared the double block to have an loop from rope. Next the single block to have the long rope to pass through the ropes and a ring on the other side, to connect it to the cannon.
 


Here are all 16 cannons, with the blocks and ropes attached. The coin is a 5 eurocent.
 

The next steps are the placing on the deck of the Wasa. Of course, the first one is the one with which to figure out how to do so.
I used 1mm thickness wood pieces as sticks to holds the rope loop in place on top of the rings.


 
 

So, 15 more to go...

I am primering everything I paint this time.  The copper paint I used this time was a spray paint and it came out a little darker than I would’ve liked. The testers brush on paint that I used on the Cutty Sark came out a lot lighter.

More pix with a different camera. Not a lot better, but I still get to flood this thread with pix.
 
I'm at a point where I am having to think up things to do. I believe all the tasks are done. Added the rudder chain. Got the tiller and boom rigging done, although I kinda bashed the design in the plans. I just couldn't do it that way. I even started the boat name using dry transfer stickers but I ran short one "A". More on order and I will probably paint over what you will see in the pix and try again. Those decals ain't easy.
 
Got out the compressor and began blowing as much junk as I could off. Found that some make up brushes are very good at brushing lint/dirt around without doing damage to things. They are very soft and come in all sorts of shapes & sizes. Got quite a set at Walmart today.
 
Also ordered the display case today. This one is going to my dad's. Back a few months when Joel passed I said I was dedicating the completion of the build, particularly the rigging to him. So at some point I will put together a few words in his memory. If you have anything you'd like to add on his behalf be thinking about that. We'll figure out how/where to publish it.
 
Well here's a few more pix.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Man, some really bad timing. I have had a few spells in the last couple of months where I just couldn' t do any tasks requiring eye/hand coordination. Doctor says it's fatigue, your hands just won't do what your brain & eyes tell them to do. At any rate, it's hit me again and I just can't get the rigging finished off. I have 8 blocks that need line seized to them and the tiller. Two hours Wednesday nite and one hour tonite and I don't have a single one done. I do have at least a half dozen Syren blocks somewhere on the floor. Very frustrating.
 
So I started some of the cleanup tasks. I never mounted the anchors I made over a year ago, so they're in place and look pretty nice. I made a cheezy stand for the cutter and glued that to the deck. And I started rigging the rear davits to hang one of the yawls - I'll only be going with 2 ships boats.
 
Guess I'll wait and try the rigging again tomorrow. Here's a few shots of tonites work:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I know the boat is blue. I got tired of red everything.
 

Niagara in her new room. I have some  legs on order and will put them on a platform that the case can sit on. Hope it all gets here before Thanksgiving. The Admiral won't be happy if we have to share the dining room table with a boat.
 
Had to take pix from the side as from straight on the flash gave too much reflection. The protective paper is still on the back. If it was another color I might consider leaving it on.
 
About time to change this title to FINISHED!!!
 

 

 
 

For scheduling reasons we are having Thanksgiving tomorrow so I got to work on the stand for the case today. Pretty much finished except for putting on a few coats of varnish. Didn't have time for it to dry and since the display will be parked in the dining room I didn't want it smelling like  like varnish during the meal tomorrow. Maybe later. Here's what I ended up with.
 

 

Had to fit some shims in there - probably should have stained it so it's not so obvious. However the stand surface is smaller than the footprint of the case so it'll all be covered up. One good thing about the pedestal with the case.
 
I had ordered some metal legs from Amazon and since I have Prime I had expected them to arrive yesterday. Instead I got an email saying delivery would be postponed - no date specified. So I cancelled that and in a panic took off to Home Depot. I must say what I ended up with is much more elegant than the metal hairpin legs. Pricier too. But Dang It, this is my first major build, it took over 2 years - SO THERE! 
 
Well here she is folks, parked in her new home.
 

 

 

I'm liking it so far.
 
 

on the other table,  I tested a few thing out on 'ole Thermie.   my recent scavenger hunt was fruitful,  although I failed to get the smaller size chain that I wanted.  I bought some......but it is the same size as the other spool I had bought some time ago.   I still have what looks like roughly 18 inches of that copper chain......I might have enough there.   I may even have some bits and short pieces in my inventory......I'll try and make do.

I was interested in the cannons I scoffed from the Jolly Rogers.   I gave them some sort of paint job.......could have gone with a brownish color for the carriages,  but I went with a red.   I only had gloss though.......I'll hit them with the flat lacquer and kill the shine.

the scavenger hunt also added two sizes of black beading thread to my inventory......I like this thread for the low fizzy quality and being prestretched.   the sheets are a sort of sticker.....I do not intend on using the trail boards and the stern decoration.   for the name,  I have a suitable printed nameplate,  that is much thinner....I just need to create the decorations along the sides.  it is my hope that the 'stickers' can be cut and trimmed to do the job.


the order I had place came in too......the two additional packs of belaying pins,  the pack of double blocks,  and the two boats.  they are clinker planked,  but seem to be missing the thwarts or parts for the interior....bother!

here.....the fife rails need to be made shorter.......

blurry picture.......but these stanchion racks need to be fitted still.  I may even have to make another one here and there,  due to poor fit.....still need to figure this out.

I've opted to make a pair of anchors.... we'll see how that goes.   the cannons were hit with a coat of flat lacquer.........great!   they didn't melt!    dry fitted on the deck........I think they will do quite nicely.   they can be put anywhere on the aft deck and lashed down.  still thinking what else can be added.


more soon  

once I started with it,  I was compelled to go further.   to move on my idea would be futile....the bonder I use is glossy.  so,  I started to cut up those insignia decals I got from a Fokker kit.  I also added the last two yellow lines that run off of the caution stripe.

I added the two stripes along the two walls...just though t they needed to be there.

I used a paper punch to cut the rounded part of the #5 circle.  I'll just park a helicopter over it and hopefully it won't show.

the gap in the caution stripe was filled in.  perhaps I'll try an archive pen to draw in the lines.......whatever will work,  I guess.   I noticed that one of the antennas was knocked off the funnel mast....so I fixed that.   then I added the main mast.  waiting for it to dry...it's OK though,  the admiral and I have to go out for an errand.   depending on how you look at it......the repairs look either ok......to 'sticks out like a sore thumb'.


I'm glad the decal work is done.  there are only a small handful of parts left.   for the folks who celebrate it,  I haven't had the chance,  but I hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving.  ours was very nice.......a great dinner and the traditional snooze in the afternoon    the admiral wasn't complaining.......I did the after dinner dishes  

I got busy first thing........I progressed further on the Helicopters.   the tail rotors are tipped and in place.

the main rotors were tipped at this time.....even the folded ones.

I did a dry fit of the finished 'chopper



then with the folded rotors....



the flags were added to the stands......then paint.

the missiles were added to the launcher....waiting for touch ups

almost to the point where these parts can be added to the ship......just a bit more work  

The island detailing is next. I used Shapeways Mk. 95 NSSM's and modifed the masts to the Vinson configuration. The mast still needs to be tweeked and aligned which will be done when the rigging is installed.
 
That should now bring everyone up to date on the project. Typically I update every weekend. I am working on the rigging now then the radar tower that sits behind the island. Still need to do the whip antenna's around the flight deck and the life raft canisters. Then building many aircraft, deck tractors, and the tilly crane. I hope you have enjoyed my progress and continue to watch the build.
 
While I have posted many photos of the progress, There are many more photo's of this build in my build album on Flickr. You can view them at https://www.flickr.com/photos/128642409@N05/albums/72157687002588814
 
 
Thanks!

Great start ,looking forward to following your build.

 

 

 

Next step filling the gaps with my precut softwood plywood. There will be some valleys ealsy to see here: on the very first mould at the middle horizontal board. But that's part off the yjob too get a solid hull - sanding, sanding and sanding again.

Hello Everyone,
 
Again there's been lots of likes, thanks, it's encouraging to know that the effort I'm putting into my log is worth it.
 
Quite a bit of progress today. It felt that making up the blocks etc. I wasn't  going forward much but I suppose that it's a necessary evil but once made they were fairly quick to attach and suddenly you get your rewards for the effort.
 
I've now fitted the masts and bowsprit and as you can see made up the dead eye strops needed. This was Mark and Pete's way of doing them so who was I to do them differently. After blackening they were fitted, this method works well, it wasn't difficult and I would recommend it.
 
Now I'm into the rigging, the shrouds I think will be next then I'll need to get my head around the rat lines.
 
Ken
 
 

Hi everybody, I actually started this November of 2016. for a long time I didn't want to create a build log because all I have for a camera is an Iphone se.  I didn't take many photos up till now, but I will from now on if the photo quality is ok.  Even tho I'm about halfway done here are the few photos I have so far. This is the first model I have built since Revell kits 25 years ago when I was 11 years old. So you won't see anything fantastic here 
 
 
The first few photos is after the hull and deck have been completed.
Some photo etch and deck fittings ready for paint with Tamiya Sky Grey
 

before weathering and after weathering.  this is the first time i have ever weathered. It's not a good job but it is what it is.

More photo etch. Also the smallest set of stairs i have ever seen.
And painted along with some guns

shes wondering why I have been working on my model for 6 hours forgeting to take her for a walk
These Veteran Model mini kits of the various guns are so great. The detail is amazing! 
my work bench
And finally some railing work brings us to where i am now with the model. 

The model is finished!   I made an ensign which I’m flying from the gaff.  I followed Chuck Passaro’s method from his log about his new kit of the Queen Anne Barge which can be found at ‘https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/12476-syren-ship-model-company-news-and-forthcoming-new-projects-products/&page=9’.  His method worked and I’m really pleased with the flag. 

A few words about American ensigns during the Revolutionary War:  According to the US Navy ‘American Navel Flags of the Revolution’ web site, the Continental Congress in 1777 ”passed an act establishing a national flag for the United States of America.  The law specified the flag have thirteen stripes and a blue ‘cannon’ of thirteen stars.  No further details were specified.”  This lead to several variants of navel ensigns, the most famous being John Paul Jones’ ensign with red, blue and white stripes and eight pointed stars.  For my last model I decided to use the ensign flown by John Barry on the US Alliance which had 7 white stripes, 6 red stripes and eight pointed stars.  For the Rattlesnake I’m using a “common variant” of 7 white stripes, 6 red stripes and five pointed stars arranged in a unique pattern.   I guess I like being different.   But I am the captain.





(Notice that I neglected to trim some lose threads attaching the ensign block to the gaff.) 

More Photos:


 
 

My next task is to make the anchors and mount them on the ship.  The problem was that I couldn’t find the anchors that came with the kit.  I’ve been following Chuck Passaro’s log for the kit he is building of the HMS Cheerful.  As part of his design, he created a mini- kit for anchors made of boxwood.  So I asked him if he could make a kit a little smaller to support a boat at 1:64 scale.  He did and I followed his instructions to make anchors out of wood which so that they really look like they were metal.  I’m pleased with the result and I mounted them based on a photo and text in John Harland’s book on page 269.  I attach a copy of the photo and some photos of the current state of the boat.  It is finished except I need to make an ensign.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 235 – Fore Topmast Stays
 
There are three forward stays from the topmast head to the bowsprit – the topmast stay proper, the inner jib stay, and the outer jib stay.  The first is the primary structural stay, consisting of a doubled 9" rope looped over the over the shrouds and backstays at the topmast head, then down and under opposite sides of the bowsprit with the ends brought up and seized to the opposite leg.  The two lines are brought together to form a collar below the crosstrees and also at the bottom above the seizings.  The collar is served and leathered and the lower ends are served on both legs up to the seizings.  The first picture shows this stay placed over the masthead after the tissue leathering was glued to it.
 

 
The collar is clamped where it will be seized together and the glue on the leathering was left to dry in this shape.  I used straight PVA white glue for this so when dry the collar will still be flexible.  In the next picture, the two legs of the stay have been passed under the bowsprit, in position for seizing.
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view of the lower area.
 

The two legs do not cross under the bowsprit, so one short leg is seized above the stay and the other below. In the next picture, three seizings have been put on each side and the two legs have been seized together at the top of the served areas.
 

 
Excess seizing thread and stay rope have yet to be trimmed off.  Brushing the seizings and the stay where the ends will be clipped with darkened wood glue will seal the serving and the seizing knots so the excess can be trimmed off.
 
 In the next picture the inner and outer jib stays have been served, leathered and put over the masthead and are clamped where the collars will be seized.
 

 
The leather is simulated on the glued-on tissue strips using acrylic artist's color.  The lower ends of these two stays are shown in the next picture. 
 

 
These each pass through sheaves in the bowsprit, under upper cleats on the martingale and are shackled to eyebolts on the hull – the inner jib stay on the starboard side and the outer on the port side.  After seizing the upper collars, they were pulled taut through the hull shackles and seized.  These stays are served from above the sheaves to their ends at the side.  The inner jib stay attachment is shown in the next picture.
 
 
 The stay is seized to a shackle fabricated with its eyebolt before insertion into the hull. 
 
These last two pictures and the next were taken after installing the fish tackle and some of the jib/staysail running rigging, so some of this appears in the pictures.  Each of these three stays carries a head sail.  This work will be described in later posts.  The last picture shows the ship with all the forward topmast stays rigged.
 
 
 
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 239 – Revisions - Spencer and Headsail Rigging
 
The running rigging described in the last two parts has been revised.  In the case of the spencer gaff the fall of the vang was obstructed by the outer boats on the skid beams.  To correct this, I added lead blocks to the forward topmast backstay and led the fall down to its pin through a fairlead on that stay.  The first picture shows the original configuration on the port side and the revision on the starboard side.
 

 
The revised rig retains the same eyebolt for the standing leg of the vang, which then passes through the block on the shortened pendant, then through the lead block and a fairlead, both on the forward topmast stay.  The fall then belays on the same pin as before.  The next picture shows the starboard lead block and fairlead.
 

 
The old rope coils and belaying were removed as shown in the next picture.
 

 
A cotton swab soaked in isopropanol was laid on the rope for a few minutes to soften the wood glue. The rope was then easily removed.
 
The other revision involved the halyards on the three headsails.  I initially considered three typical configurations for these – no blocks, a single block whip from the deck, and a single block at the head of the sail.  I installed the first, simplest method as described in Part 238.  Shortly after installing these, I thought more about this and was concerned about no mechanical advantage on these rather large sails.  In checking (belatedly) the 1870's photo of the ship in New York, the blocks at the lower ends of the stays are clearly visible.  So, that configuration has now been installed on all three stays.  The foot of the topmast stay is shown in the next picture after revision.

This may be compared with the first photo in Part 238.  The revised lower rigging of the outer jib halyard is shown in the next picture.
 

To avoid re-rigging the downhaulers, the lower blocks were strapped to the shackle in place – a most difficult task, especially with shaky hands. The shackle eye was tied first, then the splice at the base of the block.  The inner jib stay at the left of the picture has not yet been converted. 
 
The upper ends of the stays are shown in the next picture with the standing ends of the halyards tied to the stays.
 

The last picture shows all three halyards converted.
 

So, we are now back on track after a short detour.
 
Ed