Gaetan Bordeleau

Looking at your picture, may be you uses too much glue, you should just need glue on the knots. After operations you should not see glue. Is it the glue, hard to say,, but you could try a more ''standard'' wood glue type you can sand in the Titebound category.

equivalent curve on a model ship and a car

I would not buy a lathe without auto feed. It is particularly useful when turning long runs and it is essential to get a nice finish because of the regularity of the feed. Without the auto feed, the finish will be much rougher. To give a comparison, finish by hand would be # 80 and finish with auto feed depending of it's speed could be between # 60 and 1000. Does DRO was invented to help to turn or mill wood? No Does turning or milling for model ship is precision turning? No Is DRO essential for a model maker? No Does the use of the DRO can facilitate the job? Yes Is it a good thing to have good tools? Usually the answer is yes

http://www.gessweincanada.com/category-s/10518.htm this comes from jewelry it also can be from dental lab micromotor handpiece

Foredom is built for tough job, many heads are available. But I prefer an electric pen, more delicate for small job. The main advantage: no shaft to reduce the flexibility of use and for this reason I do not use anymore the Foredom which in addition is like using a bulldozer when a smaller tractor could be more than enough.

Optimization of a knife blade If a straight edge razor is 1 of the sharpest edge, what would be the equivalent with a knife? An elongated triangular shape with large sides to have a easy surface to maintain the sharpening angle while sharpening. The straight edge razor has 2 concave sides. I think that by forging the blade like this, it ease the sharpening process giving 2 points to rest the blade flat on the waterstone. No holder is necessary to maintain a stable angle of sharpening. Few years ago, I bought this knife from Lee Valley and I have always thought that it was a very cutting knife. Now I see why. There is secondary bevel on the blade. I just looked at lee valley and the closest knife is a japanese knife. It is a fact they knew something about knives and sharpening. or may be: http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=67995&cat=1,130,43332,43393&ap=1

Soon I believe, I will be able to begin the last carvings.

Bob you tried it, you must know how it works. It is just that information does not correspond. Sanding Drums (Provided): 3/4 in., 1 in., 1-1/2 in., 2 in. Sander bed assembly with 4 in. x 24 in. sanding belt assembly, 1/2 in., 3/4 in., 1 in., 1-1/2 in. and 2 in. diameter sanding sleeves The important is that it has 1/2" because for all the small diameters will be needed for sanding. Also this table has another advantage on the other; tilting.

bob this is what you showed.

I make a support in 6 parts : 1 front, 1 back, 1 each side in the middle and 1 small timber each side of the keel. These parts screw to a base

Did someone try to DIY? It must not be too much difficult

woodcraft has 2 more diameter 1/2 and 3 inches

I do not like to mix epoxy. I do not like to use liquid CA. Metal to wood I only use CA but in gel It needs 2 things clean and straight surfaces. I like to use CA for small surfaces. For larger surface like gluing copper plates I prefer 5 minutes epoxy.

I used to mix some solution. I do not exactly remember the recipe but it came from jewelry. there was ammonia about 30% and copper nitrate powder and water to adjust the %. You do not want to smell ammonia because it can put you down very fast!!!

you will have 20 different answer and the 20 answer will be good my answer would be: your taste, your choice

Thank you Carl, In the last 2 weeks, I did some research about straight edge razor and sharpening. The single most important thing I learned is that if sharpening is the first step; polishing is the final step to optimize the sharpening one notch over. By opposition to a scraper where the edge is sharpened perpendicular to the blade and the bur is left there . Stones are use to repair, sharpen and set the bevel which create the edge. They come in a variety of materials including diamond, japanese waterstones, and ceramics. Grain varies from very coarse grain (100 micron), to a fine grain #100 (15 micron) factory edges on knives, to a near mirror polish #8000 waterstone (3 micron) to a mirror polish with diamond paste #60,000 (,5 micron) , 100,000 (,25 micron). One of the sharpest knives available is a straight edge razor used by barber. King cutter would be one of the best kind. By example he uses watersones up to 8000 to complete the sharpening and for the finish, he uses a leather strop (horse leather is a very good choice), not intended to remove material but rather to accomplish a re-alignment of the indentations of the blade. Both sides of the blade are passed successively left and right because it is important to have 2 similar sides. The strop can also be used for knives with 2 cutting side. Unfortunately the leather strop is not intended for carving knives. The rough sharpening can be done uo to a #8000 watersone, but the finishing is different. Polishing the edge will mean that the surface will slide in an easier way. To achieve a mirror finish we use a wheel made from cotton or felt. To optimize the finish a green paste like the one from Lee Valley can increase a mirror finish up to ,5 micron. Here is an idea for a good combination for hand sharpening; Watersones in a pyramid of #1000, #3000 and #8000 plus a truing stone to have a perfect flat stone (waterstones are more tender than the standard grey stone we are use to see and also a true surface will give better results). You could go up to 16,000 but the difference would not be much significant. And for the finishing a felt wheel + green compound to get a mirror finish.

Another way to go is to see what happens with the feed: if you need to go too slow it means you want to chew too much if you can feed very fast may be you could go a bit deeper Often in these situations, as well as in turning, the middle is often the best way to go you need to feed easily without any wobble in the machine

Consider a practicum as a GPS showing you the road for the first time And for the second time, there will be this forum with every thing you will need Depending of certain conditions you could jump straight to the forum

When I have this kind of problem, usually it is because there is not enough clamping. And the only problem I have with glue is if I use too much.

In the category: What did you receive today? A new lens means trying new photos! In this set and the previous one, I tried a lens which theoretically is made for wildlife photos. First picture is a good example. Another lens was also used.

Thank you, Hi Allan, your second question is very good! ''Were there many that wound up in the scrap pile in order to get the nine good ones? " I lost one… in the bottom od the ship! The rail at the mizzen mast is not glued yet to the floor. When I installed it for the pictures, the second one from the left was not glued well and detached itself and felt right in the bottom. Often I can recover the parts with a stell rod which is hone with a very sharp end. This time, it was too much difficult, not enough access and some times parts like to play to hide. "Of all the woods you have tried for carving, what are your favorites? " For small intricate carvings, small and very tight grain wood is required to retain sharp edges. In theory, many exotic woods would fit in the list. Every body is free to try hardwoods with tight wood pores. In Europe, they have easy access to boxwood which is excellent for small details, but boxwood would not always be my first choice. I have seen few models with boxwood for all the carvings and the rest of the model made with few other woods. Wood properties are 1 thing, color is also very important especially when there is more than one. Some colors complement well together and some other simply do not. For this build, I used exclusively cherry (except for the table of the second deck, which is australian cherry). I like the effect of the monochrome color for stern decorations. Generally fruit woods have tighter wood grain. In this category, I am pretty sure I could try some carvings with other fruit wood which could include intricate details with sharp and fine edges. With this build, I decided to go with 1 kind of wood; cherry that I paid $2,00 pmp delivered at home. Here in Quebec, there is no access to boxwood, we have access to exotic wood but the price are very much exotic. I had access 1 time to apple wood and I was very pleased with it. This wood would be the perfect wood for planking : oak wood at small scale with tight grain! Depending of the area where we live fruit wood is the best category. For many years, I would have liked to see and try orange and peach tree but or climate is too cold to have these trees. We have lilac which has a nice tight wood grain. I find too restrictive to think that boxwood is the only wood that can be use for carving. To me, it is also too much restrictive to think that pearwood is the only wood that can be use for a model. I have even read that 1/48 scale was the only official scale. To me 1/48 scale is widely use for only 1 reason, because it is the largest scale easily handable by 1 person.

Few times ago, I tried to move the scroll saw high on a table. Surprisingly, the scroll saw table being close to the eyes, the use of magnification is not necessary for small parts.

Mark I found the meaning of the line you were looking for. This is exactly as in the other picture where the rail is made as 1 part and as large as the top. Obviously this is not the real method but this is how a beginner would draw it.

Hi Marc Magnification is a 2 parts affair; light + magnification. The smaller the detail, the stronger light is needed. Incandescent is not strong enough, halogen is yellow and radiates too much heat, fluorescent tube of appropriate kind is fine, the kind used by the jeweler LED is the last and it is performing very well. You can go even higher with lighting used in hospitals. Magnifying glass in the hand or on a stand (not recommended because the focal distance always change when you move), add-on on glasses, headband (in the middle very affordable and the most common I use with different strength in magnifying glass), surgical magnifying glass loupe, the ones I prefer for wood splinter in the fingers but also for intricate carving details. Now if you ask which one to choose, well of course it depends how much you want to pay and how much you want to see? For lighting I would go for a jeweler LED light example Dazor and for the magnification do not go less than the headband but there are of different quality, Optivisor is a good company. Hope that helps

Actually I am gaging the height of the security fences, still too high. I can use the effect of lens compression as in the last pictures to see all the 3 rows of fences to appreciate their height and angle and then I will know where to compensate.