Gaetan Bordeleau

far from perfect, but thank you Jorge
 
 
I will try to upload a .pdf file. I do not know if it will work.
I have assembled the content of this log from page 15 to 20 in a .pdf file, but only parts about  about my search about  knife, blade and sharpening. May be it could interest somebody. Anyway, I did enjoy doing this search with the help of Vossiewolf.
 
 
What is a good knife.pdf

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

Effectively Mike, it is an excellent post, one of the main reasons, is because you did try them all. I have questions and remarks.
What was your goal with the finishes? What color do you want to get for your model?
 
There are 2 kinds of tung oil, 1 pure and 1 with an additive to dry slower, this way I can keep a bottle for years.
We must always be careful not to have any glue on any surfaces because finishes will not pass through it and it will make a color difference. 
The finish  must always be applied at the last step because most finishes will not accept glue well.
Tung oil is the darkest finish, and this is for this reason that I use it. When applied it does instantly age the wood of 100 years and it gives all the beauty to the wood grain.
Shellac can leave a thick layer which look like to be vitrified and which is very shiny when photographed.
Osmo-polyx: wax oil mixture is not an invention of today. It has been used for few centuries. Alex, the russian makes excellent mixtures with oil , bee wax and even some more  additives depending of the results wanted. By example, you can add bitumen to give a look even more aged  to the wood, turpentine for easier application and so on.
Danish oil, I used it for many years. In comparison with tung oil, it does not look like to be as pure and also if you prefer a lighter coloration, you will use it and I think it was your goal.
Wiping after applying. I would say it is a must especially by the nature of the oils, it is not as easy to spread as paint or something like this.
French polish, I have seen a french guy using it for a modern model ship sail; boat, it was very shiny and very nice to see, but the application method was extremely long and difficult.
For pear wood, I can understand why you chose Osmo-polyx. Do you think that this finish would be the winner with every kind of wood?
For cherry wood, I use the non pure tung oil. I would say for 2 main reasons. It does instantly age the wood of 100 years. Untreated you cannot see the richness of the grain of the cherry wood. By treating it, the magic suddenly appears.
Finally, I did not see any varnish and i think it is a good thing. Varnish are excellent when you want a shiny look as for a violin by example, and this not what we want for as model ship builder.

In think that you should pay attention to what you write.
 
To believe that the micro bevel will save you time in sharpening is false, in fact it is the opposite.
To believe that the micro bevel will make your edge last longer is also false; with or without, it will last the same time.
Leather is not made for sharpening, leather and compound are made for 2 things:polishing  and removing the burrs.
Sharpening can be easy not because of the steel used but mostly because of the stone type you will use. Water sones are the best, some are very fast and others are slow.

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

If so, please forgive me, my first language is french, sometimes, it is difficult to fully understand  some posts.
 
Micro bevels for me is a myth created thinking that you would save time in sharpening!

Effectively Mike, it is an excellent post, one of the main reasons, is because you did try them all. I have questions and remarks.
What was your goal with the finishes? What color do you want to get for your model?
 
There are 2 kinds of tung oil, 1 pure and 1 with an additive to dry slower, this way I can keep a bottle for years.
We must always be careful not to have any glue on any surfaces because finishes will not pass through it and it will make a color difference. 
The finish  must always be applied at the last step because most finishes will not accept glue well.
Tung oil is the darkest finish, and this is for this reason that I use it. When applied it does instantly age the wood of 100 years and it gives all the beauty to the wood grain.
Shellac can leave a thick layer which look like to be vitrified and which is very shiny when photographed.
Osmo-polyx: wax oil mixture is not an invention of today. It has been used for few centuries. Alex, the russian makes excellent mixtures with oil , bee wax and even some more  additives depending of the results wanted. By example, you can add bitumen to give a look even more aged  to the wood, turpentine for easier application and so on.
Danish oil, I used it for many years. In comparison with tung oil, it does not look like to be as pure and also if you prefer a lighter coloration, you will use it and I think it was your goal.
Wiping after applying. I would say it is a must especially by the nature of the oils, it is not as easy to spread as paint or something like this.
French polish, I have seen a french guy using it for a modern model ship sail; boat, it was very shiny and very nice to see, but the application method was extremely long and difficult.
For pear wood, I can understand why you chose Osmo-polyx. Do you think that this finish would be the winner with every kind of wood?
For cherry wood, I use the non pure tung oil. I would say for 2 main reasons. It does instantly age the wood of 100 years. Untreated you cannot see the richness of the grain of the cherry wood. By treating it, the magic suddenly appears.
Finally, I did not see any varnish and i think it is a good thing. Varnish are excellent when you want a shiny look as for a violin by example, and this not what we want for as model ship builder.

in comparison canon 65 figure at 1/192

Neither do I because there are no benefit. Why should I try to micro ruined a perfect edge?
Leather strop on the other hand is more useful.

If so, please forgive me, my first language is french, sometimes, it is difficult to fully understand  some posts.
 
Micro bevels for me is a myth created thinking that you would save time in sharpening!

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

In think that you should pay attention to what you write.
 
To believe that the micro bevel will save you time in sharpening is false, in fact it is the opposite.
To believe that the micro bevel will make your edge last longer is also false; with or without, it will last the same time.
Leather is not made for sharpening, leather and compound are made for 2 things:polishing  and removing the burrs.
Sharpening can be easy not because of the steel used but mostly because of the stone type you will use. Water sones are the best, some are very fast and others are slow.

Neither do I because there are no benefit. Why should I try to micro ruined a perfect edge?
Leather strop on the other hand is more useful.

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

Effectively Mike, it is an excellent post, one of the main reasons, is because you did try them all. I have questions and remarks.
What was your goal with the finishes? What color do you want to get for your model?
 
There are 2 kinds of tung oil, 1 pure and 1 with an additive to dry slower, this way I can keep a bottle for years.
We must always be careful not to have any glue on any surfaces because finishes will not pass through it and it will make a color difference. 
The finish  must always be applied at the last step because most finishes will not accept glue well.
Tung oil is the darkest finish, and this is for this reason that I use it. When applied it does instantly age the wood of 100 years and it gives all the beauty to the wood grain.
Shellac can leave a thick layer which look like to be vitrified and which is very shiny when photographed.
Osmo-polyx: wax oil mixture is not an invention of today. It has been used for few centuries. Alex, the russian makes excellent mixtures with oil , bee wax and even some more  additives depending of the results wanted. By example, you can add bitumen to give a look even more aged  to the wood, turpentine for easier application and so on.
Danish oil, I used it for many years. In comparison with tung oil, it does not look like to be as pure and also if you prefer a lighter coloration, you will use it and I think it was your goal.
Wiping after applying. I would say it is a must especially by the nature of the oils, it is not as easy to spread as paint or something like this.
French polish, I have seen a french guy using it for a modern model ship sail; boat, it was very shiny and very nice to see, but the application method was extremely long and difficult.
For pear wood, I can understand why you chose Osmo-polyx. Do you think that this finish would be the winner with every kind of wood?
For cherry wood, I use the non pure tung oil. I would say for 2 main reasons. It does instantly age the wood of 100 years. Untreated you cannot see the richness of the grain of the cherry wood. By treating it, the magic suddenly appears.
Finally, I did not see any varnish and i think it is a good thing. Varnish are excellent when you want a shiny look as for a violin by example, and this not what we want for as model ship builder.

Effectively Mike, it is an excellent post, one of the main reasons, is because you did try them all. I have questions and remarks.
What was your goal with the finishes? What color do you want to get for your model?
 
There are 2 kinds of tung oil, 1 pure and 1 with an additive to dry slower, this way I can keep a bottle for years.
We must always be careful not to have any glue on any surfaces because finishes will not pass through it and it will make a color difference. 
The finish  must always be applied at the last step because most finishes will not accept glue well.
Tung oil is the darkest finish, and this is for this reason that I use it. When applied it does instantly age the wood of 100 years and it gives all the beauty to the wood grain.
Shellac can leave a thick layer which look like to be vitrified and which is very shiny when photographed.
Osmo-polyx: wax oil mixture is not an invention of today. It has been used for few centuries. Alex, the russian makes excellent mixtures with oil , bee wax and even some more  additives depending of the results wanted. By example, you can add bitumen to give a look even more aged  to the wood, turpentine for easier application and so on.
Danish oil, I used it for many years. In comparison with tung oil, it does not look like to be as pure and also if you prefer a lighter coloration, you will use it and I think it was your goal.
Wiping after applying. I would say it is a must especially by the nature of the oils, it is not as easy to spread as paint or something like this.
French polish, I have seen a french guy using it for a modern model ship sail; boat, it was very shiny and very nice to see, but the application method was extremely long and difficult.
For pear wood, I can understand why you chose Osmo-polyx. Do you think that this finish would be the winner with every kind of wood?
For cherry wood, I use the non pure tung oil. I would say for 2 main reasons. It does instantly age the wood of 100 years. Untreated you cannot see the richness of the grain of the cherry wood. By treating it, the magic suddenly appears.
Finally, I did not see any varnish and i think it is a good thing. Varnish are excellent when you want a shiny look as for a violin by example, and this not what we want for as model ship builder.

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

in comparison canon 65 figure at 1/192

Effectively Mike, it is an excellent post, one of the main reasons, is because you did try them all. I have questions and remarks.
What was your goal with the finishes? What color do you want to get for your model?
 
There are 2 kinds of tung oil, 1 pure and 1 with an additive to dry slower, this way I can keep a bottle for years.
We must always be careful not to have any glue on any surfaces because finishes will not pass through it and it will make a color difference. 
The finish  must always be applied at the last step because most finishes will not accept glue well.
Tung oil is the darkest finish, and this is for this reason that I use it. When applied it does instantly age the wood of 100 years and it gives all the beauty to the wood grain.
Shellac can leave a thick layer which look like to be vitrified and which is very shiny when photographed.
Osmo-polyx: wax oil mixture is not an invention of today. It has been used for few centuries. Alex, the russian makes excellent mixtures with oil , bee wax and even some more  additives depending of the results wanted. By example, you can add bitumen to give a look even more aged  to the wood, turpentine for easier application and so on.
Danish oil, I used it for many years. In comparison with tung oil, it does not look like to be as pure and also if you prefer a lighter coloration, you will use it and I think it was your goal.
Wiping after applying. I would say it is a must especially by the nature of the oils, it is not as easy to spread as paint or something like this.
French polish, I have seen a french guy using it for a modern model ship sail; boat, it was very shiny and very nice to see, but the application method was extremely long and difficult.
For pear wood, I can understand why you chose Osmo-polyx. Do you think that this finish would be the winner with every kind of wood?
For cherry wood, I use the non pure tung oil. I would say for 2 main reasons. It does instantly age the wood of 100 years. Untreated you cannot see the richness of the grain of the cherry wood. By treating it, the magic suddenly appears.
Finally, I did not see any varnish and i think it is a good thing. Varnish are excellent when you want a shiny look as for a violin by example, and this not what we want for as model ship builder.

Neither do I because there are no benefit. Why should I try to micro ruined a perfect edge?
Leather strop on the other hand is more useful.

Adjustable working height is the key factor.Table height is a restriction. The easy way to get rid of this restriction is simply to have an electric adjusting height table.
 
If I have to shape a small part and I doit at 30 inches standard height, I will be able to do it, and the piece will be fine.
If I ca adjust the height, it will be easier to position my body. Having a better position, I will be able to do a better job, it will be easier and faster.
 
Also it will be very easy to position the wheelchair under the table.