Roger Pellett

Andrew I beg to differ on this point. some of us drool at pictures like that
Nice work on the kit model by the way.
And yes I to am looking forward to your getting into the scratch building of one of these beauties, I think you should build it to 1:8 scale that way it would be 28 1/2 inches long which would be stunning. I would also think that 1:12 would be nice too at 19 inches.
 
Michael

Mine is finally done! I'm not a master builder, but I'm happy with the results. Let's see yours.....

Roger,
They are available from Lee Valley.... http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32681&cat=1,50230.  Now,  $36 CDN, though.  I have the set and they're very nice.  I bought these instead of LV's miniature spoke shave.

OK J,
 
Here are two of my models, US Navy 40 Ft 1900 Standard 40ft Steam Cutter and a US Navy Standard 26 ft Motor Whaleboat. Both models are scratch built to 1:32 scale. The figures are purchased 54mm military figures that I painted.
 
Roger

Re: Spencer Mast
 
Readers interested in this topic may wish to refer to the "American Warships for which there are no plans....." Thread in the Nautical History section. On the next to last page there are two old photos of the deck of the frigate Santee. These show Spencer masts on mizzen and main masts. One appears to be seated into a gooseneck fitting. The fitting itself is unfortunately not visible. The main mast Spencer appears to be seated into a boss protruding from the fife rail that runs behind the mast. Good views too of the Spencer mast hoops.
 
Roger

Maury,
 
If you have not already done so, Google "anchor hoy". You will find a photo of a model of the anchor hoy that you are building sold by American Marine Model Co. This model was built by Eric Ronnberg, an excellent model builder and maritime researcher. On this Model the spencer mast runs clear to the deck where it is secured into a hole in a block of wood. That is also the simplest solution and simple is usually better.
 
Roger

Lovely work, Roger!

OK J,
 
Here are two of my models, US Navy 40 Ft 1900 Standard 40ft Steam Cutter and a US Navy Standard 26 ft Motor Whaleboat. Both models are scratch built to 1:32 scale. The figures are purchased 54mm military figures that I painted.
 
Roger

OK J,
 
Here are two of my models, US Navy 40 Ft 1900 Standard 40ft Steam Cutter and a US Navy Standard 26 ft Motor Whaleboat. Both models are scratch built to 1:32 scale. The figures are purchased 54mm military figures that I painted.
 
Roger

Re: Spencer Mast
 
Readers interested in this topic may wish to refer to the "American Warships for which there are no plans....." Thread in the Nautical History section. On the next to last page there are two old photos of the deck of the frigate Santee. These show Spencer masts on mizzen and main masts. One appears to be seated into a gooseneck fitting. The fitting itself is unfortunately not visible. The main mast Spencer appears to be seated into a boss protruding from the fife rail that runs behind the mast. Good views too of the Spencer mast hoops.
 
Roger

OK J,
 
Here are two of my models, US Navy 40 Ft 1900 Standard 40ft Steam Cutter and a US Navy Standard 26 ft Motor Whaleboat. Both models are scratch built to 1:32 scale. The figures are purchased 54mm military figures that I painted.
 
Roger

Re: Spencer Mast
 
Readers interested in this topic may wish to refer to the "American Warships for which there are no plans....." Thread in the Nautical History section. On the next to last page there are two old photos of the deck of the frigate Santee. These show Spencer masts on mizzen and main masts. One appears to be seated into a gooseneck fitting. The fitting itself is unfortunately not visible. The main mast Spencer appears to be seated into a boss protruding from the fife rail that runs behind the mast. Good views too of the Spencer mast hoops.
 
Roger

Ed, Thanks.  The obvious reason for the Spencer Mast is the standing rigging that provides support for the use of the great cat.  Look at Grice's drawing on the first post in this log.  The main sail extends twice the height of the standing rigging.  The unusual rigging was another reason for selecting this boat.
Maury

OK J,
 
Here are two of my models, US Navy 40 Ft 1900 Standard 40ft Steam Cutter and a US Navy Standard 26 ft Motor Whaleboat. Both models are scratch built to 1:32 scale. The figures are purchased 54mm military figures that I painted.
 
Roger

OK J,
 
Here are two of my models, US Navy 40 Ft 1900 Standard 40ft Steam Cutter and a US Navy Standard 26 ft Motor Whaleboat. Both models are scratch built to 1:32 scale. The figures are purchased 54mm military figures that I painted.
 
Roger

OK J,
 
Here are two of my models, US Navy 40 Ft 1900 Standard 40ft Steam Cutter and a US Navy Standard 26 ft Motor Whaleboat. Both models are scratch built to 1:32 scale. The figures are purchased 54mm military figures that I painted.
 
Roger

Many thanks as always for all the kind comments and the "likes". On with the show....
  Of Moulds and Wheels 
Before completing the finish on the hull, I decided to take a little diversion in two directions. Firstly, I decided that it would be a good time to make a mould of the bow so that I could work on the cutwater off the model (and hence protect that lovely surface). And secondly, I decided it was about time to start tackling the building of a new steering wheel.
 
To make a mould of the bow, I bought some plaster from the local art store. I could have gone all fancy and bought some very expensive mould making material, but as this is a one-off job, I decided to keep it simple and inexpensive. To create the mould, I mixed up some plaster and water and then suspended the boat above it by looping some brass wire through the rudder post, then attaching some rope hooked over the garage door tracks, and then lower the boat into the plaster. Of course, I had taken the precaution of wrapping the bow in cling wrap first!
 

 
Once the plaster had set, I removed the boat and coated the mould with some silicon grease to act as a release agent. Then I mixed up some more plaster and water and poured it into the mould. I also inserted two pieces of dowel to use as “handles” later on. In this picture, the cast has set and I have cut around the top edge prior to lifting out.
 

 
And here is the final product:
 

 
After this photo was taken, I cleaned up the cast with a light sanding and then painted it with a coat of finishing resin to (hopefully) prevent it from crumbling as I work with it. More on the cutwater to come at a later date.
 
I had decided to replace the kit-supplied steering wheel after reading an excellent “how-to” by Kip Catanese over on the RC Groups forum. Kip made a replacement wheel for a fellow forum member and documented his process so well, that I decided to try and replicate it – at least as far as I am able.  What follows then, is an implementation of Kip’s methodology. I hope I can do it justice.
 
The starting point is a piece of 1/8” diameter brass rod. This needs to be bent around a form and then silver soldered to form our basic wheel. To create a form, Kip turned a “buck” on his lathe to the correct diameter to match the finished wheel’s Inside Diameter of 2” (50mm). This is slightly smaller than the kit supplied wheel as Kip reckoned it was a little too large for the scale. That’s good enough for me Kip!
 
So, following Kip’s lead, I laminated two pieces or 2 ¼” square x ¾” scrap timber together with epoxy, marked the desired diameter, mounted it in a four jaw self-centering chuck, and then turned the outer portion down to the correct diameter. Although Kip used hand tools on his lathe for this operation, I stuck with regular metal cutting tools and they worked just fine. Once the outer portion was turned down, I drilled a 1/8” diameter hole in the cylindrical section to anchor one end of the brass rod, and then drilled and tapped an M6 thread into the square section of the buck. The purpose of this will become clear shortly.
 

 
In order to bend the brass rod around the buck, it first needs to be annealed to make it soft enough to bend easily. I had not done much in the way of annealing before, so had a go with my little butane torch that I use for silver soldering. Well, all I can say is that this was an abject failure. I stopped and thought about it for a while and concluded that I simply wasn’t getting enough heat to the rod overall. A quick (and not inexpensive) trip to the hardware store solved my problems……
 

 
This little torch uses something called Ultra Gas, which apparently is the “next generation MAPP replacement”. I wouldn’t know about that, but what I do know is that it heated my brass rod to cherry red in no time at all, and after a quick dunk in a bucket of water, it bent like a piece of soft rubber around my buck.
 

 
In the picture above, you can see the purpose of the threaded hole (again a direct copy of Kip’s method). I have used an M6 socket head screw with a “mudguard” washer to hold down the very end of the brass rod and keep it nice and tight on the buck while it is being cut. After this picture was taken, I moved the threaded hold-down to the next face around (ie 90 degrees) as I found this to be more secure.
 
The whole assembly was then mounted in the milling vice and the ring cut using a slitting saw. This ensured that the two mating faces were perpendicular to each other.
 

 
Once the piece was cut free, it was placed back on the buck with a hose clamp to ensure that it remained as true to shape as possible. 
 

 
Then it was just a simple case of silver soldering the ring closed and doing a little clean up with a file.  Here is a picture of the finished ring, alongside the original kit-supplied wheel. You can see that it is slightly smaller – the outer diameter of the new wheel is about the same size as the inner diameter of the kit wheel.
 

 
Next up, thinning and shaping the exterior of the wheel, and then milling the finger crenallations. So far Kip’s treatise has been a dream to work with. I’m hoping that the remainder goes as well!
 

Very nice Roger. Thanks! Best, John

Realy nice!!!

OK J,
 
Here are two of my models, US Navy 40 Ft 1900 Standard 40ft Steam Cutter and a US Navy Standard 26 ft Motor Whaleboat. Both models are scratch built to 1:32 scale. The figures are purchased 54mm military figures that I painted.
 
Roger

OK J,
 
Here are two of my models, US Navy 40 Ft 1900 Standard 40ft Steam Cutter and a US Navy Standard 26 ft Motor Whaleboat. Both models are scratch built to 1:32 scale. The figures are purchased 54mm military figures that I painted.
 
Roger

OK J,
 
Here are two of my models, US Navy 40 Ft 1900 Standard 40ft Steam Cutter and a US Navy Standard 26 ft Motor Whaleboat. Both models are scratch built to 1:32 scale. The figures are purchased 54mm military figures that I painted.
 
Roger

Thanks for the comments.  My sticks were cut two weeks ago and only three of the 10 have a bow in them.  I guess I'm good to continue with the box.  Roger, I have that photo (and have discussed the model with Eric Jr..  I'm not sure the "block of wood" is not the partners (that are raised up higher than the decking.
Maury

Maury,
 
If you have not already done so, Google "anchor hoy". You will find a photo of a model of the anchor hoy that you are building sold by American Marine Model Co. This model was built by Eric Ronnberg, an excellent model builder and maritime researcher. On this Model the spencer mast runs clear to the deck where it is secured into a hole in a block of wood. That is also the simplest solution and simple is usually better.
 
Roger

My models are generally built from laminated lifts layed up from buttocks. I build two half models and then put them together using pre drilled locator pegs to ensure accurate alignment. I have built one plank on frame model, the NY pilot boat Express using the Hahn method but the rest of my models have carved hulls. The plank on bulkhead method does not appeal to me.
 
The little spokeshaves are perfect for carving and fairing these models.
 
Roger