Roger Pellett

Better visibility of the ship's side area at variable waterlines is a secondary purpose.  
The main task of such painting is to protect the metal of the sheathing sheets from intense destruction.

To my knowledge, there was no paint-scheme for the German Merchant Marine in the early years of the 20th century. This was just the fashion of the day. One can see this is on many old photographs on both, sail- and steam-ships. Sometimes grey was substituted for black.

Keith, I do not use spray cans when painting, as they do not give the desired uniformity to the paint layer. I use airbrushes with nozzle diameters of 0.3 and 0.5 mm.
 
As for the light stripe, this is not the waterline. This is a strip of variable waterlines, it indicates the level of the minimum and maximum permissible draft of the vessel.
  Very often this strip was painted with a special antifouling paint (patent). Mostly these paints had pink, green  shades. Pink paints contain mercury oxide, which kills microorganisms and gives the paint a pink tint.

Foot ropes.
There was a question about the foot ropes. They were not depicted from before the year 1600. At the end of the 16th century, many inventions were made in the field of shipbuilding. One of those things was the use of foot ropes. Before that time they were usually not there because the two  main yards of the lower sails were lowered on the deck. There the sails were stowed and then the yards were hoisted again. The sails could then be lowered from above. In the Netherlands, the railing had long time  the name "rahout" (ra = yard, hout = wood). Which also indicates that the yards were lowered on it. Barentz's ship from around 1595 did not have those footropes either, which was clearly visible in prints from that time.
Constant

The museum at Portsmouth, I believe it’s now called the Royal Navy Museum used to have a full sized realistic figure of Admiral Nelson in his full dress uniform.  It was arranged so you didn’t see it until you came around a corner.  It was quite startling.  He appeared to be much smaller than we usually visualize such heroic people.
 
Maybe a Lady Hamilton to keep him company? 😀
 
Roger

Haven't made much progress of late, some life issues interfered with my hobby time, imagine that. The Try Pots have been an interesting project, more involved than I expected. Everything except the pots is scratch built. Fortunately, the Whaling Museum plans are very detailed. I still have some minor detailing, then a coat of Dullcoat lacquer will help bring color consistency.

I think I did a post on the brickwork some time ago. Started with a piece of scribed deck and using a small screwdriver added the lines of bricks. Sealed the wood and painted using a rust color. When dry, a wash of light gray watercolor to highlight the mortar.

Finishing the remaining deck structures. When building these small deck structures, I have found using various size precut small wood strips, HO and N scale modeling supplies, make it easier to reproduce scale trim and framing pieces. Also, poly rod was used for the window bars (have to post another photo).

Aw, come on Valeriy! No guts, no glory!

These intricacies of pipes are simply crazy! I will never build a tanker model. 
  Great job, Roel! ✌️

Pipes have never been so interesting.

Valeriy. I assume you spray painted the hull. The waterline (white) band seems very wide. I assume it is to scale so is there a reason for it being so wide? The pedestals are of an interesting design. 

very nice painting Valeriy,
it looks great
BTW. those are the colors of the Laeisz flying P-liners
 
Nils

Hi Keith, 
 
that workmate is 37 years old! But I only started modelling in 2009 so maybe it’s had an easier life than yours!
 
yes that model is a 1:32 Holland class; its O-1, the first Dutch submarine built in 1905. It’s about 10 years old and sails well! Like O-13, it’s made of wood with a dive tank inside.

The diveplanes, rudder and propshafts have been finished - meaning they are functional and firmly attached, but removable for further sanding and coating. 
one very big risk is that I lack a flexible connection between motor and shafts - the prop - shaft - gearbox - motor turns easily but I’ll have to see if vibrations don’t cause problems.
I’ve assembled the main control components, they slide onto 4 M3 wires to form the “techrack”. This assembly slides nicely into the PVC pipes that keep the water out. The home made bajonet needs some more thought - having only two bolts to connect the two halves of the boat means it rotates a bit too easily.
ive now started on the sail - which will be built of 1mm boxwood on a frame - has some acute curves through. 

Did you check with Model Shipways to see if they still have the plans archived somewhere?

Welcome to MSW B
It would be great if you posted a little intro in the new members forum as well.
What model are you building?  If you start a build log you could get a lot of helpful suggestions on work arounds and thus get more sleep😀
Allan
 

Keith, fair question. We'll see what it looks like when I pop them off but my instinct is that there'll be two long thin glue scars where the base timbers were glued down that won't look quite natural. 

@mbp521 Tow knees, thank you! Driving me crazy to not have a proper name. Yes, they're definitely there to provide maximum stable contact with a tow.
 
@steamschooner The first time, I decided to ignore the roller chocks since I thought they'd be barely visible between the narrowly spaced tow knees; they're not always visible even in photos (for example, look at the second vertical one I showed above where they're covered by the tow knee bracing).
 
@LJP I tried something like that and got the wire as straight as I could before installing. I also mounted it on the model in such a way that I could put a fair amount of tension on each section as I glued it in. Doing this actually demonstrated the engineering integrity of the hog chain system because those angled posts took all the strain without flinching! The result is the best I could do with that I had on hand and I'm fine with it.
 
And to everyone else, I'm convinced of the need to pop the tow knees off and start over, but it'll be a few weeks due to schedule overload. I can easily hide any slight scarring from the removal with ropes or something. I'd say this will teach me a lesson not to get ahead of myself, but if this build shows anything, it's that I don't learn that lesson easily. This time I'll demonstrate the new assembly before gluing it to the model.
 
Also, to hold your interest during the next interlude, here are a couple recent views of the Missouri River just downstream of Rocheport, the upriver home port for Peerless. You're looking upriver in both shots, with Rocheport tucked into the bend at right. First one is from a bluff a couple hundred feet above the river, second one is nearby but riverside. Peerless would have traveled this stretch regularly. When these were taken the river was as high it's been in several years and you can see that the surface looks turbulent with woody debris in the water.
 

Here are 13 hulls, awnings and 'verandahs' (promenade decks?). And the thing with all the clamps on it is the promenade deck for the big model - I'm gradually adding planks; one or two each day.

Plus the deck fittings for the wheel and what I think is storage. And the wheel itself under construction. I cheated with this. I asked a fellow Men's Shedder to turn it on the lathe because I don't have the skills. You can see the little holes in the sides for the handles. Once they're in place I'll slice it off its substructure and we should have a wheel instead of a cylinder.


Steven

I'm definitely not designed it myself, I'd make it much simpler and wouldn't take 10+ years to build it if I were 😁.
I have some plans, but a General Arrangement plan doesn't really show the whole piping. It mainly just covers the main pipes and does give a good indication of its location and dimensions. I combine that drawing with a LOT of pictures, 100's of them (much like the manifold picture I posted previous post). That's also why the research takes so much time. For a lot of the details I need to scan through the pictures to get an angle on some details, then determine what size they are and what their actual location is compared to their surroundings. 

Not sure if you're talking about the model, or the real ship... On the real ship, as Roger explained there are quite a few "rules" that determine how this is all set up. A side note to that is that there is a certain pecking order in the design. With so many people involved, I would assume somebody designs the hull, then the "cargo guy" can do his thing and then the next one in line etc. That does complicate a lot of things for a lot of people I assume. The engineer who had to design the fresh water system and piping for example, was probably the last in line and had to arrange his piping from the fresh water tanks to the manifolds as well. On Chaconia I noticed they had dismantled most of that piping, using only the aft connection to bunker fresh water when required. 

The same counts for hydraulics etc. The engineer who designed the cargo system put some hydraulic valves in his system, but probably did not design the run of hydraulic piping. 
So in some cases, we do wonder why they did what they did, the way they did it... 
Your remark did remind me to put a picture of that real manifold in here, since I don't think I posted that yet. 
So yes, I still have a lot of work to do. On the other hand, it does show the real paint job on those ships, a reason I'm not too concerned about painting on the model. 😂 The big white pipes on the manifold are actually the liquid lines, they are frozen due to the cold liquid being pumped. 

 
As mentioned before, that liquid line was going to take a while. Once I have that one, it'll be easier. Below is that strainer and it's by-pass etc. 

 
To adjust piping and get a staight cut I use my old pipe cutter. It goes only down to diameters of 3mm, so it can't cut through, however, the cutter does leave a nice straight cut mark, which I can later on follow with a knife to get a 90° cut. 

 
I thought a while about the cross shaped reinforcement on the lid of the strainer, but decided it really was required to give a proper impression. The lid itself is a litho top with the bolts punched in, backed by a 0.3mm styrene plate to give a little more thickness. The cross is made up of 0.3mm styrene. 

 
The strainer body itself also has support beams, but those will be added later, in an opposite fashion, since you can't line up everything from bottom to top. Additionally there is still a pipeline that needs to go from this liquid line down to the booster pumps (part of that pipe can be seen near the deck level, with a piece of brass wire sticking out). I am nearly there when it comes to this pipe. 

And now some paint on top.  

Below shows the first few test turnbuckles, as yet unpainted (they will be painted white in production). The body is a short piece of 1/32"diameter brass tube. The eyes are formed from 26 gauge brass wire, which fits perfectly in the tube. I created a small jig (two small posts) for wrapping the wire to create the eyes. The eye on one end will be open initially, so that I can slip it onto the existing eyes fastened to the deck, rails, and other attachment points, then the eye will be closed. The standing rigging will then be tied to the free end of each turnbuckle.  I found it a bit tricky to cut the brass tube. I rolled the tube on a flat surface, and used a #11 scalpel blade to score it. The blade tends to wander under too much pressure. I'll need to refine my technique before mass producing these turnbuckles.
 

Planking the bow.
Purely speculative. As mentioned earlier, the planking here is horizontal, on many carracks it is curved vertical, but at the time of the sinking of Mary Rose this seems to have become somewhat old-fashioned. most drawings then show horizontal planking.
 
First, a clean up on the inside

Then the bow is built up step by step.

The bow is planked. Not clearly visible in the photos, but there are still depths and heights in the shape here and there. But the planks are thick enough to sand away these imperfections.
 
And. Not happy with the errors on the right, but we don't see anything about this later. Needs further sanding (left)

With the cardboard fore castle. In this setup the height is already 1.5cm lower.
Next, sanding, applying treenails, etc. to be done.

Thanks for following

The photo below is the slipways at Hillman Barge and Boat in Brownsville, PA where we had the mishap.  This photo was right after a successful launch as the barge and catch boat can be seen on the right.   Googling photos of the yard like the one I found below brought back some really nice memories.   
Allan

Dravo’s Neville Island yard used much the same setup.  Of course, the width of the yard’s waterfront could a bottleneck in the mass production of these simple vessels as it restricted the number of launch ways that could be built.
 
To overcome this Dravo had a setup where barges and towboats moved across the yard sequentially until the completed vessel reached the launch ways.  I would assume that other River yards used the same system.
 
I always thought that I would have liked to work at Dravo’s shipyard, but instead they wanted me at their Pipe Fabrication Division.  In the end, I was lucky.  The shipyard closed in the late 1980’s but the Pipe Fabrication continued into the early 1990’s.  By that time I had a new job here in Duluth.  I did see the yard side launch a barge- Big Splash!
 
Roger