Chuck
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Everything posted by Chuck
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Nope....no good.....your piece is not oriented properly with the grain. That is why they break...rotate so the part of the stem that sticks up and always breaks is going along with the grain....rather than across it. This is super important and you should always keep teh grain direction in mind when posiitioning your templates.- 335 replies
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1 3/8" I believe but I will have to double check. I dont have my model here and I know I forgot to add that to the plans.....between 5 and 6 feet is OK. Chuck
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You dont have a twist....You just have to shift those port or starboard to line them up. Thats why I made them tight. I used titebond because it has a lot of open time. Then I tapped/pushed one side or the other to align each bulkhead one at a time. I looked at them from the angles you posted as well as port and starboard. Tweaking the positions until they were aligned. I wouldnt glue in any spacers until all of the bulkheads are in position and dried. That is probably helping the mis alignment issue. No pins or other aparatus are needed. Just start mid ship and work your way towards the stern...then flip around and finish it towards the bow. Aligning each as you go. Wait for the previous one to cure pretty good before you do the next one. Chuck
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Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
Chuck replied to SawdustDave's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Congratulations....well deserved. I just thought I was going crazy while looking at the mayflower......good to get that clarified. Chuck -
Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
Chuck replied to SawdustDave's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Dave which kit is that? Should I move it to the kit build area? I see many instances where it doesnt follow my plans as far as I can see. I also see laser cut parts in there. Did you start with a kit by one of the European makers? Chuck -
Kit Review - Mayflower 1/65 by Constructo
Chuck replied to yvesvidal's topic in Wood ship model kits
Its what it says on the box and plans... 5./32" scale. -
Just jump in!!!!! The water is just fine. If you break something, Expo will replace it. Theres no substitute for getting a feel for it without over thinking it. Thinking about it too much leads to ship model paralysis. Chuck
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Bulkhead thinning...yes I know it is awful....but take your time. Its really important to the overall look of the model. Beautiful progress Augie!!! Chuck
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Probably overkill....but yes you need to do teh math and increase the thickness by 33.3% Chuck
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Its just another way....There are many techniques out there and you must find the one you are most comfortable with. Those that say you should never do this or that.....well, they are just partial to one method over another. You could spile and cut the shape or try something else. As long as the run of the strakes are proper....it doesnt matter. The proof is in the pudding so to speak.
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Looking good do far...enjoy the kit. Chuck
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It wont hurt anything. I do it all the time. Its coming out just great so far. Well done!!!
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Any and all kits from ZHL are banned as long as they keep pirating kits from other manufacturers. They are not reputable as a company. Chuck
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That is coming along very well. You will soon be caught up with me!!!!
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That looks fantastic...It looks like you spent all day painted those friezes.
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Dont be afraid to sand the heck out of it. You can sand all of that off and restain it. The planks are thick enough. Try t again but make sure you use a mixture of more natural stain vs golden oak. I would start with something like a 20 % stain mixture to 80% natural. See what happens. You can remove that stained layer if you just sand it off. Then sand it with a very fine 400 - 600 wet dry paper. Then apply the stain mixture. Chuck
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Yes it should be...This way the caprail overlaps slightly on the outboard side only. The inboard side is flush. But that means you must go much thinner than 3/32" wide. The bulkheads should be sanded down to about 1/16" wide at the caprail or even less. The model will be surprisingly strong. Shoot for 3/64" wide along the top of the bulkheads.
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Whats a separating tab.....can you take a picture? The box edges will be covered up. Chuck
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I am not sure what you mean...lowered as far as recessed. Yes you can do that. You can create basically any shear you want within reason. Chuck
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Al You can use the plans and use CNC to cut out the parts. As long as they are for your own personal use on this project then feel free to use any method to cut out the parts. As the hobby matures, folks are starting to use new tools and technology. Who are we to stand in the way. I happen to prefer a sharp chisel or a scroll saw but other now find CAD and CNC or even laser cutting just as much a part of the process. Its no different than someone using a Sherline Mill or Lathe vs. a jewelers saw and chisel. The project is an introduction to scratch building and scratch building techniques. CNC is just one of those techniques that are newer. CAD and CNC are fast becoming a fun part of this hobby for lots of people. They should be made to feel welcome here. So again I will welcome you to the group and forum. Build away and enjoy the project. The only disclaimer is that it be for your own personal use and you cant distribute cut parts to other builders. I will enjoy watching you progress and dont hesitate to ask me any questions. You have the complete blessing and authority from ADMIN and Owner alike. Chuck
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Never a kit...just the plans and book. It will be a while to Seawatch Books dismay. But they will publish a book with plans. I will supply some materials and laser cut parts, but not a kit. Chuck
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Yupp....you are correct. There is one for every station line. Four times as many in a typical kit. It will make framing the gunports easier as well. Chuck
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Looking great...certainly take your time with that thinning down. That is an important step. Nothing worse than a very thick transom. Try and get into those nooks and crannies. It will pay huge dividends as far as the final model is concerned. Take your time. Chuck
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