Chuck

You are so close!!!! Its looking great.

Just a quick note to all MSW members.... There have been quite a few new members to the Winnie group who just signed up over the last 3 weeks and are just getting started. I know many of you might think the group is too far ahead now to join. BUT If anyone is thinking of jumping in, this might be the perfect time. You will be in good company with several members just starting to make sawdust. You can link to the HMS Winchelsea Group Project here.....Click Here This group is very active and we encourage many more to join in on the fun. This is a wonderful introduction to scratch building techniques. You can scratch build this entire project or buy some portions of it as laser cut parts. You only buy those parts that you need and if you are comfortable building them from scratch or willing to try, this is the perfect project to learn those skills. This model is 1/4" scale and plank on bulkhead in design. The completed model will be 38" long in this scale. If you have any questions about this group before joining...please reply to this topic and ask away. Click here to get access to the NRG store....click here....Its just $15 to gain access to the plans and get started. It would be fantastic to have you as part of the group!!!

Beautiful work Siggi ☺️

Hows the Cheerful coming along? I am eager to see that hull all planked up!!! Stay well

Hows this? qdeckplanksframingone.pdf

If you are having trouble with the thole pins, you might want to try using a wire of the same diameter. Perhaps even a brass rod. Perhaps 1mm or ever larger.

Very nicely done. That is a solid foundation for final planking.

I think what you have come up with will be just fine. I would go with it. That should work. It doesnt follow the contemporary model but since it will be below deck you wont see much of it anyway. The overall results will be consistent on your model the way you intend to change it. Chuck

That looks great Don. One thing I cant help but notice is how shiny your black paint is. Is that a personal preference. I might suggest a matte black if its at all possible at this stage. Maybe try it on one side and have a look. So many people catching up to me. I have to get busy!! I will ponder how to make it easier to print out that template. Chuck

Hows the q galleries coming? I am patiently waiting to see how they turned out.

Nice start. Great plan to dump that hull sheet. You wont get a true hull shape with it. Carefully planking a single layer will give you much better results.

Thats too bad. What else is in the hime workbench? It must be driving you crazy.

Mark…your model is looking spectacular. Its always a great source of inspiration. The molding will look great once added and I look forward to seeing it. That ship’s hull has such a beautiful shape….its hard to stop admiring it.

I have no idea why that is happening to you. But the progress looks really good. I like what you are doing with the model. Its nice to see you forging ahead.

That looks fantastic….such a nice model. Just found your log….better late than never.

John…. any luck getting this model back on the workbench? I was just checking out your log again for some i sight on a possible project…would love to see this wonderful model start taking shape again.

Im reposting so it doesnt get lost on the previous page I decided to plank the outside bands or belts of the fcastle and qdeck. I wanted to break up the task rather than have to do all of the remaining planking at once. I cant plank the center band until I make all the coamings and gratings etc. What I did do however was select all of the wood for the planking now so it all was a good match in color and lightness. I set aside all of the wood for when do plank down the center. You have a few options here. I will let you decide. You can rip some strips and bend them to the curves needed based on the template. Thats fine, especially for the qdeck planking. BUT, I decided to just rubber cement my template for the fcastle planking on some 3/64" thick cedar sheets. The curves are more pronounced on the fcastle. Then I just used a sharp #11 blade to cut them out. I stayed outside of the lines and then sanded them to fit tightly. There are only four planks on each side of the fcastle so it isnt too bad. Just use the template first as a paper guide and make any tweaks for your model before cutting them from wood. No laser cut and etched decking here folks!! For the qdeck I just ripped some 1/4" x 3/64" strips. Then I tapered them to match the template. I made sure the butt joints fell on a beam. Try for some nice tight seams here.....and dont forget to simulate the caulking down one edge of each strip with a pencil or whatever method you prefer. You can see that so much of the gun deck is still viewable and this will be a nice method so all those details and hard work arent hidden away below deck. Next up I will be making the coamings and gratings so I can plank around them down the center of the deck. This may take a while because I want those grating to fit perfectly in the coamings just like they did on the gun deck. That means there will be plenty of coaming thrown in the trash until they are just right.

I think you will be fine Greg. Its usually just the vendors that get nicked. i believe they think we can easily take the loss. You should absolutely bring your model. I dont want to discourage you or anyone else. I think it had a lot to do with folks getting excited after two years without a show. It was a bit crazy early on at the show. My wife said folks were literally coming on our side of the tables and rummaging through the tool boxes for stuff before we even finished setting up. Those that know my set up….all syren products are on display boards and when you point to something you want to buy we go through the boxes and put together your order. But this time folks were just having a free -for -all early on who didnt know the system… it was quite chaotic. The funny thing is that after lunch the vendor tables are dead. But the first two hours are crazy.

No worries Tim You would be surprised how often stuff gets lifted from these ship model shows. This year I also “lost” a few display cannons I had built on their carriages. i put them out on the table to show folks what they look like all assembled. Maybe these guys think they are free samples…LOL. It happens and it was even worse at a few NRG conferences.

I decided to plank the outside bands or belts of the fcastle and qdeck. I wanted to break up the task rather than have to do all of the remaining planking at once. I cant plank the center band until I make all the coamings and gratings etc. What I did do however was select all of the wood for the planking now so it all was a good match in color and lightness. I set aside all of the wood for when do plank down the center. You have a few options here. I will let you decide. You can rip some strips and bend them to the curves needed based on the template. Thats fine, especially for the qdeck planking. BUT, I decided to just rubber cement my template for the fcastle planking on some 3/64" thick cedar sheets. The curves are more pronounced on the fcastle. Then I just used a sharp #11 blade to cut them out. I stayed outside of the lines and then sanded them to fit tightly. There are only four planks on each side of the fcastle so it isnt too bad. Just use the template first as a paper guide and make any tweaks for your model before cutting them from wood. No laser cut and etched decking here folks!! For the qdeck I just ripped some 1/4" x 3/64" strips. Then I tapered them to match the template. I made sure the butt joints fell on a beam. Try for some nice tight seams here.....and dont forget to simulate the caulking down one edge of each strip with a pencil or whatever method you prefer. You can see that so much of the gun deck is still viewable and this will be a nice method so all those details and hard work arent hidden away below deck. Next up I will be making the coamings and gratings so I can plank around them down the center of the deck. This may take a while because I want those grating to fit perfectly in the coamings just like they did on the gun deck. That means there will be plenty of coaming thrown in the trash until they are just right. I wanted to take pictures with the little "mini me" but unfortunately some knucklehead with sticky fingers stole it right off the model at the Connecticut show. I wonder what the guy is doing with a mini me? I shudder to think. Rest in peace "mini me". So far no ransom note has been sent.

Lovely model. Thats a nice Syren.

Beautiful work. That will be a beauty when completed.

Its going to be a while. You are too quick for me. How about the gunport lids….did you make those yet? I am making steady progress now so hopefully soon enough. But you will run through Chapter 9 and be ready for ten really quickly too.

Wait until you plank the counter and then fair the hull back there into the counter planking so it will be smooth. The line is fine and what you really need to do is sand and fair that filler against the bulkhead former.

It looks fine actually. It is more of a gentle curve on that line that follows the curve of the bottom of the lower counter. This is east enough to draw on those filler pieces so you can plank correctly and once you actually plank the lower counter with the laser cut parts that curve will become very evident. The laser cut counter olanking will create the actual curved shape. Its absolutely fine as I see it and its good to see you working on her again.