Chuck

Capstan experiment one.  I got bored and burnt out making inventory items.  So I decided to test out my parts for making the lower capstan.  I have had the parts laser cut for a while.
 
I didnt take any construction photos as this was just a test but keep in mind this is way before we will actually need it.  I am always just a little ahead with the design stuff.   So I will make another and document each step.   I want to make the center spindle a bit heavier that goes between decks above the capstan drum.   So I will tweak that before I make a new one.
 
But what I wanted to show you guys is how I did it.  I tried a new design for fitting the chocks into the whelps.
 

Below you can see my very first proof of concept testing to see if I could laser etch notches on both sides of the whelps.  It worked beautifully.  So all you need to do is slide the chocks in after test their fit.   This was a challenge even at this scale because these parts are still pretty tiny.
 

 
The other parts including the capstan drum are all built as usual in layers on a 1/16" x 1/16" stick to register them.  Very similar to the way I designed the stern lantern mini-kit for the winnie.
 
This was a fun mini kit to build and will look great painted or left natural.  I will detail its construction in Chapter 5.....sorry to jump the gun.  I couldnt help myself.  These will be made available as stand alone mini kits in 1/4" scale and 3/16" scale as well.
 

 
 
 
 

Capstan experiment one.  I got bored and burnt out making inventory items.  So I decided to test out my parts for making the lower capstan.  I have had the parts laser cut for a while.
 
I didnt take any construction photos as this was just a test but keep in mind this is way before we will actually need it.  I am always just a little ahead with the design stuff.   So I will make another and document each step.   I want to make the center spindle a bit heavier that goes between decks above the capstan drum.   So I will tweak that before I make a new one.
 
But what I wanted to show you guys is how I did it.  I tried a new design for fitting the chocks into the whelps.
 

Below you can see my very first proof of concept testing to see if I could laser etch notches on both sides of the whelps.  It worked beautifully.  So all you need to do is slide the chocks in after test their fit.   This was a challenge even at this scale because these parts are still pretty tiny.
 

 
The other parts including the capstan drum are all built as usual in layers on a 1/16" x 1/16" stick to register them.  Very similar to the way I designed the stern lantern mini-kit for the winnie.
 
This was a fun mini kit to build and will look great painted or left natural.  I will detail its construction in Chapter 5.....sorry to jump the gun.  I couldnt help myself.  These will be made available as stand alone mini kits in 1/4" scale and 3/16" scale as well.
 

 
 
 
 

Yes that is an eye bolt also
 

Hi, Chuck,
this has become a wonderful model.
The rigging is also a dream.
I admire your work, I can learn a lot from it.

Having come home last night I wasnt much feeling like making blocks or rope.  So instead I am spending the day in the workshop.   To go along with the anchors I am making the nun buoys...or anchor buoys.  These are an optional detail and are not always presented on contemporary models.   But I thought it would make a detail.   
 
I sourced some special beads the appropriate size and shape.  The buoys should be about 1/4 to 1/3 of the length of the anchor, original sources are sketchy.   These buoys are 15mm long.   The beads have a hole through them already but it was too large.  So I filled it and then re-drilled for the eyebolts.  This is not how a real anchor buoy is fashioned but I have simulated the details for years and think it does a nice job of it with the eyebolts.   It makes rigging the buoys easier.  The eyebolts are not glued in all the way.  They are left about 1/32" from the buoy end so I can seize the loose ends of the rigging around them.
 
First the eye bolts are added and the buoy is touched up and painted.   Then I prepare two rope assemblies for each buoy.  Each assembly contains two lengths of .025 brown rope with an eye formed on one end.   Then they are slid onto another length of rope to complete the rope assembly.  Two are needed for each buoy.  One on each end.  Normally the rope is served for these but I just wasnt feeling it so I used the rope as is.
 
This rope is spliced around the buoy and the two loose ends brought down to the eyebolt.  Here is where I seize them around the bases of the eyebolt and snipped off the loose ends.  see the photo which shows the second buoy in this stage but I havent snipped off the excess rope yet after seizing the two loose ends.   I repeat this process on the other side but note how the two loose ends will now be run under the first assembly first as they work their way towards the eyebolt on the other side.    Its difficult to explain in writing but hopefully the photo does the trick.   
 
Then I touch up the black paint and apply some weathering powder.  I dont want them to be solid black.   Tomorrow I will rig them along with the anchors.  You can see the completed buoy in front (right).
 
The anchor mini-kits are now in stock and they do include the two buoys.  So you get the parts for the anchors and the buoy material.   
 

I am not sure what you are referring to but yes there are eyebolts between the chainplate straps.  

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

I have completed all of the partners and coamings......I can almost start planking the deck now.  I forgot one last detail which I will show you guys soon.   But here are some pics. 
 
The foremast partners are made from laser cut parts and then I added the bolts.  I used 15 pound filament for those.  Use a #75 drill bit for the holes.
 
You can also see the base plate for the stove.   You have a few options with this.  I have laser cut a nice base for you.  At this time the base was most likely just a large iron plate....but in some cases they used flagstone or slate.  If you want to depict the iron plate....just flip it over and paint it matte black.   But if you want to show some slate or flagstones, I have laser etched the other side with a stone tile pattern.
 
Simply paint it matte black first but keep the coaming natural.  Then use some weathering powders on the tiles to make them only slightly lighter.  Leave the etched grout lines (which are deeper) dark black.   But use some grays and rust colors to make a subtle stone base.  Dont over do it!!!
 
The main mast partners were done the same as the fore mast partners.   None of these are glued in position yet but I will be doing so soon!!!






Any comments or questions!!!!!!!

Back to the Winnie....
 
To make the gratings for the gun deck you will need 3 packages of my cambered grating mini kits.  I will not be including these in the package for chapter 4 because I sell them in either cedar (less expensive) or boxwood.   Both would work and you guys can choose.  You will also need the grating jig.  One jig should last you the entire project.
 
To start, figure out how many cambered laser cut grating strips you will need to fit the space in your coaming.  Only build what you need.  For example this grating below on left side needed just seven grating strips in the jig.  My coaming were designed so each grating will fit perfectly when finished.  So dont use more than the space needs.
 

Then use the supplied strips and press them into the notches carefully.  You will notice they will probably be too tight at first.  This is by design.  You need to run some sandpaper down the strip until it becomes a nice press-fit into the notches.  Once again only use the number of strips you need.  In this case 13 strips pressed firmly in position...
 
At this stage you should look it over to make sure no grating strips went crooked while you were fitting the batten strips.  If they did your holes wont be equal in shape and size.  Fix those now using a toothpick if they lean over.  Its easy to do.
 

Then paint on some watered down tite-bond.  Get it in all the nooks and crannies.   Not too thick.   If the holes start clogging....add more water.
Wait about 2 minutes but not so long that the glue will dry.  You want to carefully pry the grating free of the jig before it dries and is glued to the jig!!!
 
Then clean up the jig for the next grating.   But you are not done yet.  Brush more glue on the bottom underside of the grating.  Set it aside to dry fully.
 

Now you are probably saying.... how in world will these ugly dirty gratings look good.  Right now they look awful.
 
Snip off the excess from the perimeter and file the sides smooth.  Check the fit in the coaming.   Then start sanding the top surface.  In the center photo below you can see I have sanding that grating only on one side.  The finished grating can be seen coming to light.
 
The one on the right is completed.   These are cedar gratings by the way.   Now should you sand the bottom too?   You dont have to.....BUT, I am sure you have seen those contemporary models and have seen how thin they are.  I wouldnt recommend going too thin.   But it does change the way the grating looks in the coaming.   
 

 
And here are the finished coamings with the gratings in position.   
 

ANY QUESTIONS????

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Back to the Winnie....
 
To make the gratings for the gun deck you will need 3 packages of my cambered grating mini kits.  I will not be including these in the package for chapter 4 because I sell them in either cedar (less expensive) or boxwood.   Both would work and you guys can choose.  You will also need the grating jig.  One jig should last you the entire project.
 
To start, figure out how many cambered laser cut grating strips you will need to fit the space in your coaming.  Only build what you need.  For example this grating below on left side needed just seven grating strips in the jig.  My coaming were designed so each grating will fit perfectly when finished.  So dont use more than the space needs.
 

Then use the supplied strips and press them into the notches carefully.  You will notice they will probably be too tight at first.  This is by design.  You need to run some sandpaper down the strip until it becomes a nice press-fit into the notches.  Once again only use the number of strips you need.  In this case 13 strips pressed firmly in position...
 
At this stage you should look it over to make sure no grating strips went crooked while you were fitting the batten strips.  If they did your holes wont be equal in shape and size.  Fix those now using a toothpick if they lean over.  Its easy to do.
 

Then paint on some watered down tite-bond.  Get it in all the nooks and crannies.   Not too thick.   If the holes start clogging....add more water.
Wait about 2 minutes but not so long that the glue will dry.  You want to carefully pry the grating free of the jig before it dries and is glued to the jig!!!
 
Then clean up the jig for the next grating.   But you are not done yet.  Brush more glue on the bottom underside of the grating.  Set it aside to dry fully.
 

Now you are probably saying.... how in world will these ugly dirty gratings look good.  Right now they look awful.
 
Snip off the excess from the perimeter and file the sides smooth.  Check the fit in the coaming.   Then start sanding the top surface.  In the center photo below you can see I have sanding that grating only on one side.  The finished grating can be seen coming to light.
 
The one on the right is completed.   These are cedar gratings by the way.   Now should you sand the bottom too?   You dont have to.....BUT, I am sure you have seen those contemporary models and have seen how thin they are.  I wouldnt recommend going too thin.   But it does change the way the grating looks in the coaming.   
 

 
And here are the finished coamings with the gratings in position.   
 

ANY QUESTIONS????

I forgot to mention that I will not be drilling the deck for the masts since there wont be any.  I simply painted the circles black on the false decking.  The partners are really thick and then there will be the mast coats so these holes will be pretty deep.  So it will look nice and neat this way and nobody will ever know.  AND they are so deep that if anyone was crazy enough to rig her, that they would be sufficiently deep enough to stick your masts into.
 

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.