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Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from Ainars Apalais in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from popash42 in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from popash42 in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
Thanks!!!
I never posted how I am going to handle the shifted or bent frames. This is how it will be done. Its basically the same as the traditional frame you saw already where you flip over the pieces for a better fit. BUT....the top timbers are 1/4" thick vs 3/16" thick like the other parts of the frame. You can see the components below. After making so many of these I have found that it is best to glue the two pieces for each side of the frame together first. Note how the top timbers (2-C) are thicker.
Once the tightbond is dried, I dont sand any of the char off yet. But I did remove the alignment tabs to make shaping the shifted top timber easier.
Then I glue some specially prepared templates to the outside edge of the frame showing the bend as shown above. I used rubber cement but anything low tack will work. Then its just a matter of shaping to match the template. I used a sharp #11 blade to just shave away the majority of the wood that needed to be removed. Then I used some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it off nicely. Once done you can remove the template as seen below. Then its just like any other frame where you glue these two parts to the other frame sections.
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Chuck got a reaction from fnkershner in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
Thanks!!!
I never posted how I am going to handle the shifted or bent frames. This is how it will be done. Its basically the same as the traditional frame you saw already where you flip over the pieces for a better fit. BUT....the top timbers are 1/4" thick vs 3/16" thick like the other parts of the frame. You can see the components below. After making so many of these I have found that it is best to glue the two pieces for each side of the frame together first. Note how the top timbers (2-C) are thicker.
Once the tightbond is dried, I dont sand any of the char off yet. But I did remove the alignment tabs to make shaping the shifted top timber easier.
Then I glue some specially prepared templates to the outside edge of the frame showing the bend as shown above. I used rubber cement but anything low tack will work. Then its just a matter of shaping to match the template. I used a sharp #11 blade to just shave away the majority of the wood that needed to be removed. Then I used some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it off nicely. Once done you can remove the template as seen below. Then its just like any other frame where you glue these two parts to the other frame sections.
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Chuck got a reaction from archjofo in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from fnkershner in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
Thanks!!!
I never posted how I am going to handle the shifted or bent frames. This is how it will be done. Its basically the same as the traditional frame you saw already where you flip over the pieces for a better fit. BUT....the top timbers are 1/4" thick vs 3/16" thick like the other parts of the frame. You can see the components below. After making so many of these I have found that it is best to glue the two pieces for each side of the frame together first. Note how the top timbers (2-C) are thicker.
Once the tightbond is dried, I dont sand any of the char off yet. But I did remove the alignment tabs to make shaping the shifted top timber easier.
Then I glue some specially prepared templates to the outside edge of the frame showing the bend as shown above. I used rubber cement but anything low tack will work. Then its just a matter of shaping to match the template. I used a sharp #11 blade to just shave away the majority of the wood that needed to be removed. Then I used some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it off nicely. Once done you can remove the template as seen below. Then its just like any other frame where you glue these two parts to the other frame sections.
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Chuck got a reaction from popash42 in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
That Echo Cross section and how it is presented is exactly how I plan on presenting the Pegasus kit. Literally the same. One side planked and one side open framed.....Its beautiful.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from AntonyUK in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
Yes it was but, dont relate this to what your traditional kit might look like. There are dozens of people asking for dozens of things....and the kit can not be everything for everyone. Its kind of funny actually. Who wants holly...who wants masts and rigging...who wants copper plates...Pump details...a boxwood option....the list is endless. The beauty of the hobby is that any of you can very easily bash a kit like this to include copper plating. Or buy a few sheets of Holly to plank it with, or whatever else. What you guys dont realize is that with every upgrade it will add $$$ to the cost of a kit. For example, many have balked at the price I am charging for the barge. They dont understand how its different than other kits and what it takes to MFG it.
I would like to keep this kit reasonably priced for the majority of builders...and not push this into the realm of where only 15% of the market will be willing to buy it or could afford it. I am shooting for the $225-$250 range....but you guys can bash it easily enough. I really dont mean to sound harsh but I wanted to let you know its a bit overwhelming and if you guys look back on the shear number of requests...thats a lot of upgrades and work for what most wouldnt want to pay more than five bucks extra for.
Overwhelmed in New Jersey......
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Chuck got a reaction from AntonyUK in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
Consider the flood of Chinese and Russian POF kits on the market right now. They all use stylized framing ala "Hahn" method. Its very stylized and tedious to put together. Most are pirated. Others are just plain bad attempts at POF. This will be my answer to a flooded market of those, by kicking it up a notch and showing some real (almost) framing concepts in a kit form. And hopefully not tedious and annoying to build. Not that the Asian kit obsessed will ever acknowledge anything other than the .....well you know. But the next logical progression would be to take this design concept further and do a full hull. But not likely by me anytime soon.
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Chuck got a reaction from Beef Wellington in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from tlevine in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from archjofo in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
Thanks!!!
I never posted how I am going to handle the shifted or bent frames. This is how it will be done. Its basically the same as the traditional frame you saw already where you flip over the pieces for a better fit. BUT....the top timbers are 1/4" thick vs 3/16" thick like the other parts of the frame. You can see the components below. After making so many of these I have found that it is best to glue the two pieces for each side of the frame together first. Note how the top timbers (2-C) are thicker.
Once the tightbond is dried, I dont sand any of the char off yet. But I did remove the alignment tabs to make shaping the shifted top timber easier.
Then I glue some specially prepared templates to the outside edge of the frame showing the bend as shown above. I used rubber cement but anything low tack will work. Then its just a matter of shaping to match the template. I used a sharp #11 blade to just shave away the majority of the wood that needed to be removed. Then I used some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it off nicely. Once done you can remove the template as seen below. Then its just like any other frame where you glue these two parts to the other frame sections.
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Chuck got a reaction from Vivian Galad in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from egkb in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from tlevine in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
Thanks!!!
I never posted how I am going to handle the shifted or bent frames. This is how it will be done. Its basically the same as the traditional frame you saw already where you flip over the pieces for a better fit. BUT....the top timbers are 1/4" thick vs 3/16" thick like the other parts of the frame. You can see the components below. After making so many of these I have found that it is best to glue the two pieces for each side of the frame together first. Note how the top timbers (2-C) are thicker.
Once the tightbond is dried, I dont sand any of the char off yet. But I did remove the alignment tabs to make shaping the shifted top timber easier.
Then I glue some specially prepared templates to the outside edge of the frame showing the bend as shown above. I used rubber cement but anything low tack will work. Then its just a matter of shaping to match the template. I used a sharp #11 blade to just shave away the majority of the wood that needed to be removed. Then I used some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it off nicely. Once done you can remove the template as seen below. Then its just like any other frame where you glue these two parts to the other frame sections.
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Chuck got a reaction from yvesvidal in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from egkb in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
Thanks!!!
I never posted how I am going to handle the shifted or bent frames. This is how it will be done. Its basically the same as the traditional frame you saw already where you flip over the pieces for a better fit. BUT....the top timbers are 1/4" thick vs 3/16" thick like the other parts of the frame. You can see the components below. After making so many of these I have found that it is best to glue the two pieces for each side of the frame together first. Note how the top timbers (2-C) are thicker.
Once the tightbond is dried, I dont sand any of the char off yet. But I did remove the alignment tabs to make shaping the shifted top timber easier.
Then I glue some specially prepared templates to the outside edge of the frame showing the bend as shown above. I used rubber cement but anything low tack will work. Then its just a matter of shaping to match the template. I used a sharp #11 blade to just shave away the majority of the wood that needed to be removed. Then I used some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it off nicely. Once done you can remove the template as seen below. Then its just like any other frame where you glue these two parts to the other frame sections.
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Chuck got a reaction from Jim Rogers in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
Thanks!!!
I never posted how I am going to handle the shifted or bent frames. This is how it will be done. Its basically the same as the traditional frame you saw already where you flip over the pieces for a better fit. BUT....the top timbers are 1/4" thick vs 3/16" thick like the other parts of the frame. You can see the components below. After making so many of these I have found that it is best to glue the two pieces for each side of the frame together first. Note how the top timbers (2-C) are thicker.
Once the tightbond is dried, I dont sand any of the char off yet. But I did remove the alignment tabs to make shaping the shifted top timber easier.
Then I glue some specially prepared templates to the outside edge of the frame showing the bend as shown above. I used rubber cement but anything low tack will work. Then its just a matter of shaping to match the template. I used a sharp #11 blade to just shave away the majority of the wood that needed to be removed. Then I used some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it off nicely. Once done you can remove the template as seen below. Then its just like any other frame where you glue these two parts to the other frame sections.
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Chuck got a reaction from Rustyj in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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Chuck got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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