Chuck

Very nice....it looks wonderful. 

Erik
 
That is correct.  I use a simple knot appropriate for the job.   It is very rare that I will need to use glue.  At the very most I will use some diluted white glue on the knot or hitch afterwards.   They key is not using rope that is too slippery and difficult to secure without slippage.  For example,  the nylon stuff that comes in many kits is too slippery and this would work.   Many synthetic materials will be too slippery to simply use a clove hitch or granny knot to secure.  They come undone on their own without much help.
 
But its not a problem with the cotton/linen rope I am using.  No slippage or undoing of knots at all.  For the deadeye lanyards above the deadeye....this is one instance where I would apply a dot of watered down white glue.   Not enough to be permanent but enough to lock the granny knot in position just in case.   Its not under any tension if you can believe it because the deadeyes hold the rope pretty good once you have them all rigged in every hole.  Again...a slippery rope material wouldnt behave like this  however.

That is something I would not recommend.   Eventually they will get brittle and break.   Its just not something you see on ship models and it would adversley effect the look and texture of the rope.

As a rule....I dont glue any of my lines to their final belaying point.  They are made fast to their pins and cleats but because it is inevitable that you will need to re-tension the lines,  this makes it very easy to do.   There is no really good reason to glue the line permanently.  It will stay in place just fine and makes fixing the lines or even replacing them much easier later on.   I have restored models that are over 100 years old and they rarely glued the ropes to the belaying points back then.  This meant it was as simple as pulling a belaying pin and re-doing it with proper tension.  No need to cut anything.  It was a pleasure compared to models which had the ropes glued and hard to work. 
 
I am currently rigging my model and have routinely adjusted the tension on many lines as it progresses.  Once completed I will add rope coils over the pins with the smallest dot of white glue.  They will be easy to remove if needed later.  And the line can be adjusted as described.

Thank You guys.
 
The thimbles are made from thin wall brass tube.  In this case 1.5 mm brass tube.  I tap them with a blunt point as shown in this image.  Not to hard.  The brass is soft and the thimbles will tear.  They will also stretch larger in dia. and become thinner than you cut the original length.
 
Here are some close ups of my thimbles thus far in use on the model.  Also note the thimble not yet punched to flare its ends in that first photo.  See how much longer and smaller it is.  Hooks are shaped from 26 gauge black wire.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

I understand what you are saying Sawdust Dave. However, one can hedge one's bets by building a cutter rather than a 74 when one is 74!

Chuck
While the model as a whole is wonderful, I especially enjoy seeing your attention to detail.  For example the eyes in the channels are not standing too proud as seen on many other models, but rather are set more deeply as they should be.   Very well done!
Allan

Heres a close up of my planking experiment with Yellow cedar.  Very tight almost inconceivable grain.  holds a sharp edge and no need to stain it.  There are two 1/32" sheets below it that I will cut a few carving blanks from and give it a try.  I just have to find some time to do so.  I applied one coat of WOP.  The seams were simulated with a #2 pencil.  I like it.    I havent tried making frames but it is certainly a great replacement for planking....either for boxwood or even holly.   It will darken over time.
 
ALSO....its about half the price of Boxwood and Holly (give or take).  A bit more than Cherry or Maple but I think its a much better wood.  It really does cut like butter with a #11 blade.   Hopefully the same will be true when I carve it.
 
Chuck
 

I am going to try and carve one of the blanks from Yellow Cedar.  Its beautiful stuff and I just got some from my supplier.  In case you want to try it check out his site.  He also mills boxwood and a whhole bunch of other stuff.  His prices are fantastic.  So far I am more than happy with the quality and respoinsiveness of this guy.   Hopefully once he gets his site up and running it will be even easier to place an order.n  As far as I know, he is the only supplier of milled yellow cedar on the web.  
 
http://www.woodprojectsource.com/
 
Right now he doesnt have any items listed on his site as in stock because he is just finishing it up.  It should be real soon because he never had a website before and I convinced him to build one.  But you can contact him at any time because he is open for business.  But thanks to some prodding from me he is starting off by adding the woods we prefer.  But he mostly caters to local wood carvers which apparantly there are a lot of.
 
Here is an example in Yellow Cedar of a carving and my test build of the barge.  Compare with teh cherry version behind it.  I really like it for what we do.  Its softer than box but harder than basswood yet the color is beautiful and since I took this photo the color has deepened and it looks almost identical to boxwood although a bit more yellowish....but not an obnoxious yellow at all.
 

 

 
Chuck

I have a couple of those...just havent tried them yet.
 
I am still hoping we will get some folks that will try shaping these pieces with a rotaary tool....it would be nice to have a comparison.  Also 
 
You guys are free to carve any design and start a log here as long as it is for ship model related items.   Carving with any tool is very different when you are working at these scales and it is a very different experience than carving full size or even double the size of these blanks.  I know we have a lot of traditional wood carvers out there and once you try carving something as small as these you will see how differently you must approach it.
 
So feel free to carve anything you like....just no folk art old men with a cane....that stuff is not relevant to carving items meant for a ship model at 3/16" or even a 1/4" scale.    But if you have a trailboard or another design you want to carve for your ship model...feel free to start a log and get some input from the others. 
 
I am very happy to see more logs being started...thanks for the interest.   I am also thinking about starting another area on sculpting using polymer clay for those who wish to try that medium to make more complex designs or even the same ones we are doing here.  Just have to find the time to start that one up.  And I will do so if you guys think there is sufficient interest in it.   I am trying to develop this area more so it covers many aspects for creating the decorative elements for a ship model.....whether they are carved or sculpted.   
 
Chuck

They are fine woods for carving in large scale but I wouldnt think it a good choice for the smaller carving we do.  For many reasons.   Its hard to get basswood to hold a hard edge when carving that tiny...it has a tendency to split and break as well.  Just too fuzzy. In some cases on the design we will be carving pieces that have areas that are just 1/32" x 1/32" and this could fall in area where the grain runs in a less than optimal direction.   So it would be tough to keep the integrity of the small pieces using any soft wood.  I have carved some areas down to 1/64" x 1/64".  Very fragile.
 
If you have spent three hours carving a piece the last thing you want to happen is to get a break on a very thin area because the wood is too soft.   Best to stick with woods that are much harder and stronger.  I carved the crown cipher in cherry just to test it out...it was much more difficult to do and you had to be so much more careful and gentle with it. Even slightly dull blades will pull and split small areas of the design.  And Cherry is much harder than Linden or Bass.  It is possible but why not just use a harder wood to start with to make the process less problematic.  Its fine for carving larger...but when you get these blanks you will understand how basswood or even Linden would just not work that well.
 
Chuck

These two pieces were done with just #11 blades.  No finish applied on the top one yet.  They are about 1/4" wide and just a few inches long.....only 1/32" thick.   I think a large chisel would obliterate them.
 

The issue with chisels for me is the actual size and delicate nature of the parts we are carving.  I just cant use the chisels with the same control as a #11 blade.  A scalpel blade would be good also.   Remember...these are tiny thin pieces of wood.   Using a #11 blade you are just using the very tip.   The last 1/32" portion of the very tip.....no more.   Until you get a chance to try them all it would be hard for anyone to describe it.  
 
That was one of the benefits of getting everyone together at my shop so we could all try each others chisels and blades.   Its the only way to tell.  In fact, it wasnt until I tried a good quality chisel that I decided to buy them.  They are expensive.

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

I actually still use the #11 blades even though I have a whole set of chesels.  They just get into the nooks better in my opinion.  I am no authority on the subject though.   I did use the "v" shaped groove chisel to make the veins in the leaves which was easier than making "chip cuts" with a #11 blade.  So I guess it depends on what you are carving at the moment.  And what you are more comfortable with.

I havent used them much yet.....but flexcut has a special shaped "whatcha-ma-bob" to sharpen them.  See below.
 
http://www.flexcut.com/pw12-flexcut-slipstrop/
 
 
They also have a great how to video showing how to sharpen the chisels.  Cant say much else because I barely used mine.....havent tried it yet.  I mostly used a #11 blade.
 
Chuck

As a rule....I dont glue any of my lines to their final belaying point.  They are made fast to their pins and cleats but because it is inevitable that you will need to re-tension the lines,  this makes it very easy to do.   There is no really good reason to glue the line permanently.  It will stay in place just fine and makes fixing the lines or even replacing them much easier later on.   I have restored models that are over 100 years old and they rarely glued the ropes to the belaying points back then.  This meant it was as simple as pulling a belaying pin and re-doing it with proper tension.  No need to cut anything.  It was a pleasure compared to models which had the ropes glued and hard to work. 
 
I am currently rigging my model and have routinely adjusted the tension on many lines as it progresses.  Once completed I will add rope coils over the pins with the smallest dot of white glue.  They will be easy to remove if needed later.  And the line can be adjusted as described.

Thank You very much, and happy Thanksgiving.   
 
I rigged the Burton Pendants and started the shrouds.  The Burton Pendants (.035 dark brown) are served the entire length with a 1/4" single block seized on it end.   It hangs down from the trees a bit more than we are used to with a typical frigate.   Then  a tackle was set up to the pendant.  The tackle is only shown on a few contemporary models and I thought it was interesting so I decided to show it.  This particular version is based on the cutter model in the London Science museum and Peterson's book.
 
The Shrouds are pretty standard,  I used .045 dark brown rope.  The forward shroud is served its entire length.  The serving was all done on the "Serv-o-matic".  The remainder of the shrouds will only have the portion around the mast head served down to just below the cheeks.  
 
Below you can see my shroud gang taking shape with this first pair of shrouds done.
 

 
The deadeyes were turned in and set-up with the usual methods.  I dont particularly care for this aspect of rigging.  Especially getting that first seizing done just above the deadeye.  Its an awkward one as its oriented differently but it is important because it creates that shape of the shroud doubling you strive for.  The lanyard was rigged with .018 light brown rope and not glued permanently.  This was done once again so I can easily re-tension the shrouds after all the standing rigging is completed.
 

 
Now to finish up the three remaining pairs. 

Thank You guys.
 
The thimbles are made from thin wall brass tube.  In this case 1.5 mm brass tube.  I tap them with a blunt point as shown in this image.  Not to hard.  The brass is soft and the thimbles will tear.  They will also stretch larger in dia. and become thinner than you cut the original length.
 
Here are some close ups of my thimbles thus far in use on the model.  Also note the thimble not yet punched to flare its ends in that first photo.  See how much longer and smaller it is.  Hooks are shaped from 26 gauge black wire.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

Thank You very much, and happy Thanksgiving.   
 
I rigged the Burton Pendants and started the shrouds.  The Burton Pendants (.035 dark brown) are served the entire length with a 1/4" single block seized on it end.   It hangs down from the trees a bit more than we are used to with a typical frigate.   Then  a tackle was set up to the pendant.  The tackle is only shown on a few contemporary models and I thought it was interesting so I decided to show it.  This particular version is based on the cutter model in the London Science museum and Peterson's book.
 
The Shrouds are pretty standard,  I used .045 dark brown rope.  The forward shroud is served its entire length.  The serving was all done on the "Serv-o-matic".  The remainder of the shrouds will only have the portion around the mast head served down to just below the cheeks.  
 
Below you can see my shroud gang taking shape with this first pair of shrouds done.
 

 
The deadeyes were turned in and set-up with the usual methods.  I dont particularly care for this aspect of rigging.  Especially getting that first seizing done just above the deadeye.  Its an awkward one as its oriented differently but it is important because it creates that shape of the shroud doubling you strive for.  The lanyard was rigged with .018 light brown rope and not glued permanently.  This was done once again so I can easily re-tension the shrouds after all the standing rigging is completed.
 

 
Now to finish up the three remaining pairs. 

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Thanks.   Yes Druxey I have tried it that way but old habits die hard.   I am just most comfortable doing it this way.  Its not too bad but just a bit finicky.  Luckily there are only eight to do.   But I am happy with how they turned out.
 
Chuck

Thank You very much, and happy Thanksgiving.   
 
I rigged the Burton Pendants and started the shrouds.  The Burton Pendants (.035 dark brown) are served the entire length with a 1/4" single block seized on it end.   It hangs down from the trees a bit more than we are used to with a typical frigate.   Then  a tackle was set up to the pendant.  The tackle is only shown on a few contemporary models and I thought it was interesting so I decided to show it.  This particular version is based on the cutter model in the London Science museum and Peterson's book.
 
The Shrouds are pretty standard,  I used .045 dark brown rope.  The forward shroud is served its entire length.  The serving was all done on the "Serv-o-matic".  The remainder of the shrouds will only have the portion around the mast head served down to just below the cheeks.  
 
Below you can see my shroud gang taking shape with this first pair of shrouds done.
 

 
The deadeyes were turned in and set-up with the usual methods.  I dont particularly care for this aspect of rigging.  Especially getting that first seizing done just above the deadeye.  Its an awkward one as its oriented differently but it is important because it creates that shape of the shroud doubling you strive for.  The lanyard was rigged with .018 light brown rope and not glued permanently.  This was done once again so I can easily re-tension the shrouds after all the standing rigging is completed.
 

 
Now to finish up the three remaining pairs.