Chuck
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Chuck reacted to Nirvana in 18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
During the evening I have proceeded with beveling the false keel.
This require magnifier with light in order to get the 1/32" thickness .
It's amazing that a built like this is so much more fascinating and get ones attention to details than others.....
Could it be, because of Chuck?
The instructions take me down to the very basic. Can't see me not succeeding with USF Confederacy. Thank you Chuck!
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Chuck got a reaction from Doreltomin in Mayflower by SkerryAmp - Model Shipways - 5/32" = 1'
I know how it feels to hit the shop after a long absence. Well done and try to sneak a few more sessions soon. Its good for the soul!!!
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Chuck reacted to SkerryAmp in Mayflower by SkerryAmp - Model Shipways - 5/32" = 1'
I have broken free!!!
At least for tonight, so will be trying to make the most of it
First order of business...... give some love to the Mayflower. She has been patient over there on the workbench, although I could feel the judging, condemning glares from time to time.
So - gave 'er a littel bit of attention.
I went ahead and just added the white trim pieces along the railings and sides. Not a great deal of progress, but considering the last update was from March - it is something!!
The trim was painted using artists acrylics, which I am starting to get an affinity for. It covers nicely and with a little bit of leveling agent added seems to go on nice and smooth! They were glued into place, trimmed, sanded just a little to give them a bit of a worn look and then sit waiting for the next step. Which is the other pieces of molding as well as the green stripes and detail work.
Ahhhh. SO GOOD to work with the wood and paint and get something done!!!
Am now going to head on in and watch a little TV with the Admiral as she goes to bed much earlier than I do and then I will be back and catch up on the nearly 400 updates (according to that little notifier up there in the corner)
Thank you all for being patient! I will be making the most of my new found time until it gets snatched away again!!!
Enjoy and happy modeling!!!
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Chuck reacted to Mike Y in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Hooray! I finished all the messy part of gluing metal parts onto wood parts. Damn CA! Hate it!
Metal bumper looks much better then a paper one. Or I probably just cant work with the paper (some build logs of ships from card totally changed the view on paper)
Rudder tiller have a brass rod inside to make a stronger joint with a rudder:
And here is the rudder installed. Fully functional, you can rotate it gently
Trunk of the pinnace looked too empty. Then I started to think... What could be there? It is a flashy pinnace, not the one that is used to carry food supply. It is intended to transport officers. What they could carry with them?? Aha! Some high quality booze, to make sure it will not disappear while officers are on the shore.
So here is a tiny booze tank:
SKÅL!
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Chuck reacted to Nirvana in 18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
This is to show my man made keel and stem vs. MS kit material.
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Chuck got a reaction from Julie Mo in 18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
Nope....no good.....your piece is not oriented properly with the grain. That is why they break...rotate so the part of the stem that sticks up and always breaks is going along with the grain....rather than across it. This is super important and you should always keep teh grain direction in mind when posiitioning your templates.
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Chuck got a reaction from MRJG in 18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
Nope....no good.....your piece is not oriented properly with the grain. That is why they break...rotate so the part of the stem that sticks up and always breaks is going along with the grain....rather than across it. This is super important and you should always keep teh grain direction in mind when posiitioning your templates.
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Chuck reacted to jburchfield1@wowway.com in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
Mark - thanks a lot for that link. After looking at them I see my errors (and they are definitely ALL mine). Main thing was rushing - bad habit I've got. What was really brain-dead (on my part) I had one of them bookmarked so I could use it when I got to that point and failed to go back and look at it.
Yeah, the bulkhead is in the right spot. I'm not sure how I got it too small. I'm positive it was not a kit error either.
I had forgotten about acetone loosening the CA, but after looking things over again today, I realized that when I supposedly faired the bulkheads, I totally blew it when I beveled them up in a curve following the bearding line instead of toward the stern as required.
So that being the case, I ordered the new kit today and will just remake the hull. As a plus, that'll give me a lot of spare parts for future boo-boo's.
Got to learn to put some kind of "governor" on my hurry up attitude. Well, lesson learned (I hope).
Thanks for your help.
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Chuck got a reaction from Justin P. in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
Just jump in!!!!! The water is just fine. If you break something, Expo will replace it. Theres no substitute for getting a feel for it without over thinking it. Thinking about it too much leads to ship model paralysis.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from bebopsteve in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
Just jump in!!!!! The water is just fine. If you break something, Expo will replace it. Theres no substitute for getting a feel for it without over thinking it. Thinking about it too much leads to ship model paralysis.
Chuck
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Chuck reacted to jim_smits in HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft
Result!
Managed to get the technique to work and I will now be applying this to all my future block stropping.
Looped some thread around the block and fixed with a tiny spot of cyano.
Threaded an eyelet over one end of the thread and doubled back over the block and fixed with a clip.
Next, seized the three lengths of thread together to give the impression of a simple loop around the block and eyelet.
Once the seizing was completed, I soaked the area in diluted PVA and allowed to dry. Once dried, all the loose ends were trimmed off with a sharp knife. This left a very nice tidy block stropped to an eyelet. Very happy with the result.
Repeated for four sets of blocks and glued in place on the bulwark. Fixed the carronade in place and threaded the rigging through all the blocks. Really pleased with the result and just three more carronades to go.
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Chuck reacted to Nirvana in 18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
I followed the advice working with a coarser sandpaper to begin with and followed up with 400 grit.
The sheets came out very nice. The discoloration is natural in the wood. Nothing I can do about.
The upper sheet hasn't had the removal of dust attended yet.
The keel and stem piece will be from HobbyMills longboat boxwood upgrade.
I scanned part of the plans and cut out the keel template, attached it to the boxwood sheet and saw it.
The connection notch on the keel was cut out using my very new fine-tooth saw.
And the final outcome, this without sanding at all.
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Chuck reacted to kscadman in US Brig Syren by kscadman - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - first wooden ship build
Charley, Augie, Mike, Thomas & Dirk thank you for the comments.
I've finished chapter 13 and now its on to chapter 14. As I was re-reading the chapter I realized I'd better think about building my base before I get to a point where I'd be breaking off pieces installing her in her permanent stand. So I bought a piece of solid oak at Home Depot and cut a 30 degree miter on all 4 sides then I sanded it smooth and added several coats of matte polyurethane
The bitts went well but I had alot of trouble when it came to making the fife rail. Even though the railing is in 2 pieces and cut cross grain I still had trouble drilling the holes wide enough for the belaying pins. It kept wanting to crack and break. I spent alot of time re-gluing tiny pieces back together that the drill broke off. The basswood dowel supplied for the legs was a disaster. So I ended up buying a dowel made from birch and that worked well. I turned the legs on my watchmakers lathe which made the cutting go smoothly.
I've mad li ttle progress on my quarter galleries but eventually I'll get them done. I worked on the stern ornamentation but the casting sizes were so different that I ordered new ones from Model Expo. Hopefully I'll get replacements.
Anyway enough with the dialog and on to the pictures.
Richard
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Chuck reacted to kruginmi in HMS Druid by Krug - FINISHED - 1:48 - Hahn
It seems like every day I add things that now make a significant difference in the look. Yesterday was the timberheads, gluing the cap rails down and assembling and fastening the ladders. I have talked / covered how this was done in other parts of the build so I just attach some new photos:
Boy, that camera angle sure makes those ladders look totally crazy width wise. That is optics. I have the cleats, blackening the chimney and the eking rails left before gel coating and moving back to the quarterdeck.
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark
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Chuck reacted to Mike 41 in Washington 1776 by Mike 41 - FINISHED - 1:48 - row galley
This is the quarterdeck framing.
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Chuck reacted to Elia in Arethusa 1907 by Elia - Knockabout Banks Fishing Schooner
Earlier than my steering wheel endeavor I had fabricated the cat heads and installed the chainplates. All of the deck furniture remains only temporarily placed for context.
Funny thing about the deadeyes - they don't want to stand upright, as in the photos. They lay over, free on their pivot pins...
And last, but not least, thank you to all those who've 'liked' my updates!
Cheers,
Elia
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Chuck got a reaction from Nirvana in 18th century Longboat by fnkershner (Floyd Kershner) - Model Shipways - 1:48
You dont have a twist....You just have to shift those port or starboard to line them up. Thats why I made them tight. I used titebond because it has a lot of open time. Then I tapped/pushed one side or the other to align each bulkhead one at a time. I looked at them from the angles you posted as well as port and starboard. Tweaking the positions until they were aligned. I wouldnt glue in any spacers until all of the bulkheads are in position and dried. That is probably helping the mis alignment issue. No pins or other aparatus are needed. Just start mid ship and work your way towards the stern...then flip around and finish it towards the bow. Aligning each as you go. Wait for the previous one to cure pretty good before you do the next one.
Chuck
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Chuck reacted to SawdustDave in Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
By the way, Chuck....OUR Confederacy just ran away with BEST IN SHOW at this year's North Carolina Maritime Society's annual Boat Builders Show. Held this past weekend in Beaufort, NC.
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Chuck reacted to SawdustDave in Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
Several milestones in every build are worthy of small celebrations. The final hull plank is one of those "Miller Time" moments.
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Chuck got a reaction from dgbot in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
Just jump in!!!!! The water is just fine. If you break something, Expo will replace it. Theres no substitute for getting a feel for it without over thinking it. Thinking about it too much leads to ship model paralysis.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from justsayrow in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
Just jump in!!!!! The water is just fine. If you break something, Expo will replace it. Theres no substitute for getting a feel for it without over thinking it. Thinking about it too much leads to ship model paralysis.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from fatih79 in 18th century English Longboat by Chuck - FINISHED - c.1760
Thanks Pat...yes it was a fun build. I added the front for the locker in the cockpit next. Then I spaced the thwarts according to the plans. The thwarts had scribed grooves down each side as the NMM model showed. The center thwart also has a different shape. Its wider overall and is shaped in the center to support the mast. Around the mast are four belaying pins I turned from boxwood by chocking them in my dremel. The iron work on this thwart was just paper strips.
With all of the thwarts in position it was easy to determine the shape and size of the cockpit seats. The seats on each side were added first. Then a thin strip was added between them against teh transom. The locker lid was last to be added. The hinges are just stiff paper card painted black with a piece of wire to simulate the hinge pin.
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Chuck reacted to Rustyj in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Rustyj - 1/64 - POB - 32-Gun Frigate
Now it is time to add the fixed blocks to the outside of the hull. These blocks are simulated
and do not pass all the way through the hull. A small hole was drilled at each end and then
the center cut out to make the sheave slot. A small piece of wood was then fit into the slot
with a groove cut into it to simulate the sheave. The blocks are then placed against the hull,
the sheave hole position was marked and then the hole was drilled through the hull. This will
ensure proper alignment when placing the inner block later on.
The gun port opening have their first coat of paint applied and you can also see the batten strip
attached to the hull marking the location of the first row of planking.
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Chuck got a reaction from james c lusk in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Bulkhead thinning...yes I know it is awful....but take your time. Its really important to the overall look of the model.
Beautiful progress Augie!!!
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Bulkhead thinning...yes I know it is awful....but take your time. Its really important to the overall look of the model.
Beautiful progress Augie!!!
Chuck
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