Chuck

I am going to quickly finish drafting and building the entire backbone assembly for Speedwell.  Yes Mike will be helping me prove the prototype and parts actually fit together for folks other than me.   He will be building his version in Boxwood,  but I will not be oferring the Speedwell to anyone else using boxwood.  
 
The actual kit and project will be primarily Yellow Cedar like the Winnie with occasional details in boxwood where it makes sense to use it.  It would just be too expensive otherwise and it would be nearly impossible for me to get so much boxwood aside from using it on those parts that absolutely need it.
 
Mike....dont rush to the finish on Winnie.   Take your time and cross the finish line strong!!!   These parts for the backbone assembly should however be done for you by New Years.   So I look forward to seeing your build log on this too.  Dont forget that the Saturday after Thanksgiving the guys are coming by my shop for the usual fun workshop with the gang....lots of Thanksgiving leftovers for sure but you will get to see a sneak peak of what you have in store for you.

We shall see when production starts.   The biggest issue is getting enough sheets of milled Yellow Cedar and being able to laser cut so many parts with only one machine.  I really dont want to buy more machines.  Dont have the room.  I cant possibly store or even expect Joe to mill the hundreds and thousands of sheets needed to meet demand.  
 
Like the Longboat kit and Barge kit,  its tough for me to meet demand.   I wont discontinue any kits but think of them like the McRib sandwich.  It may be months if not a year before I find the time to make more of them and have enough wood to do so.
 
But eventually the McRib sandwich will be back for everyone to enjoy...personally I think the sandwiches are disgusting but you get what I mean.
 
Chuck

We shall see when production starts.   The biggest issue is getting enough sheets of milled Yellow Cedar and being able to laser cut so many parts with only one machine.  I really dont want to buy more machines.  Dont have the room.  I cant possibly store or even expect Joe to mill the hundreds and thousands of sheets needed to meet demand.  
 
Like the Longboat kit and Barge kit,  its tough for me to meet demand.   I wont discontinue any kits but think of them like the McRib sandwich.  It may be months if not a year before I find the time to make more of them and have enough wood to do so.
 
But eventually the McRib sandwich will be back for everyone to enjoy...personally I think the sandwiches are disgusting but you get what I mean.
 
Chuck

We shall see when production starts.   The biggest issue is getting enough sheets of milled Yellow Cedar and being able to laser cut so many parts with only one machine.  I really dont want to buy more machines.  Dont have the room.  I cant possibly store or even expect Joe to mill the hundreds and thousands of sheets needed to meet demand.  
 
Like the Longboat kit and Barge kit,  its tough for me to meet demand.   I wont discontinue any kits but think of them like the McRib sandwich.  It may be months if not a year before I find the time to make more of them and have enough wood to do so.
 
But eventually the McRib sandwich will be back for everyone to enjoy...personally I think the sandwiches are disgusting but you get what I mean.
 
Chuck

Moving along to finish the boxing joint.  The first segment of the keel is also laser cut in two layers.   There are laser etched numbers on them.   Glue these two layers together with the numbers facing each other on the INSIDE of the joint.   
 

This does a respectable job of simulating the box joint.

Then tweak as needed to get a tight fit with the stem assembly.  The seams will darken of course when I apply a finish.   But it has all been sanded.   After tweaking the ends of the box joint just a bit to get really tight seams I went over them in pencil again to make sure they would be visible once I apply some wipe on Poly.
 
You will also note how the remaining two segments of the keel are also done in two layers.   It will be impossible to tell that these are done in layers once the rabbet strip and the false keel are added.   It was a good solution to making what could have been a very complex and challenging box joint.   Bolts will be added later. 
 

 
 

Moving along to finish the boxing joint.  The first segment of the keel is also laser cut in two layers.   There are laser etched numbers on them.   Glue these two layers together with the numbers facing each other on the INSIDE of the joint.   
 

This does a respectable job of simulating the box joint.

Then tweak as needed to get a tight fit with the stem assembly.  The seams will darken of course when I apply a finish.   But it has all been sanded.   After tweaking the ends of the box joint just a bit to get really tight seams I went over them in pencil again to make sure they would be visible once I apply some wipe on Poly.
 
You will also note how the remaining two segments of the keel are also done in two layers.   It will be impossible to tell that these are done in layers once the rabbet strip and the false keel are added.   It was a good solution to making what could have been a very complex and challenging box joint.   Bolts will be added later. 
 

 
 

Oh and I almost forgot.  Somebody asked about the length of the model.  The hull will be 32” long.  Fully rigged the model will be 54 to 55” long.  
 
its about identical to the Vanguard Indy model coming out.
 
chuck 

Thank you guys.  I am excited about the new model project.  Mostly about designing the framing.  I hope to make it less finicky than you guys have probably seen with the typical POF kits being sold.  
 
i absolutely hate all of the scaffolding and boxes you see built up around the hull to align the frames.  You cant even see the model through all of that.  So I am taking a minimalist approach to frame alignment for square frames and cant frames alike.  
 
I will hopefully have the keel assembly completed soon so I can start raising from frames on her.
 
Chuck

Let me dive right in...
 
Dont forget that if you eventually build this kit,  the two volume set from Seawatch will be a must have.   Yes you will spot the differences easy enough,  but the books along with my instructions absolutely compliment each other and you will want to have them at your side.
 
I always like to begin by building the stem assembly.   As was true with Cheerful and the Winnie,  All of the parts are laser cut.  In this case yellow cedar was used.  But there is one major difference.  On the Winnie, you could just punch out the pieces and glue them together with little or no tweaking.  But this model is being built at 3/8" scale.  That means the parts are much thicker than with Winnie.

 
The laser cutter as you know will not cut with the edges at a perfect right angle.  Normally I would just flip some parts and that would do the trick so everyone would get a perfect fit with the edges fitting nice and tight.  These parts however are so thick that even with the best of laser cutter settings, more than just an exaggerated bevel is produced.   When the wood starts to reach 5/16" or 3/8" thick, the laser starts to introduce a slight curve as well.   Most of this can be compensated for by doing my usual flipping of parts.
 
But where the edge is narrower, lets say at the end of scarph joint....the flipping isnt enough.  So each part has been strategically made a fraction longer on one end only so you can make adjustments for the tightest fit possible.
 
In fact...most edges still dont need to be touched and I recommend that you dont touch almost all of them.  I have taken the liberty of circling every edge in the stem knee assembly that should be tweaked.   I am talking about knocking off the char and sanding the edge very slightly to get a really nice fit.  Just a few swipes with a sanding stick along these narrower edges and you will have a perfect fit.  Not too much though.  Test the it regularly and flip it over to look at the joint on both sides.   
 
Just a quick hitting with the sanding sticks on the edges marked with red circles will make these parts fit nice and tight.
 

Also Note 
 
The lower end of the stem will form an actual and true boxing joint.   But to simplify the building process this segment of the stem needs to be built in two layers.  I will do this a lot on this project which you will soon see.  Make sure you assemble the two layers carefully and have the longer piece on the correct side.   The two halves were glued together first and then that segment was glued onto the completed head/stem assembly after tweaking the scarph joint for a tight fit.  Hope that makes sense.
 

Also note above the dashed red line where the boxing joint will be.  The top layer of the stem was left a bit longer than needed to assure it could be trimmed back flush with the end of the gripe.  I used a sharp #11 blade to slice it back so it was flush and neat.  You can see this was done on my assembly already but once you glue that segment of the stem on your assembly you will see its just a hair too long....that was done intentionally so you could get a great fit on your model and the boxing joint will have nice tight seams.
 
Once completed the thinner knee of the head was also sanded and installed...note how that is pre notched to receive head timbers much later in the project.  Just center it port to starboard.   Dont sand any laser char off at all until you test it on your assembly.   It will fit almost perfect from the get go so only the edges that are visible after gluing it in position should be sanded free of char.  This piece can be delicate so more than one laser cut piece is provided just in case.
 
Now it was time to thin down and taper the entire head assembly to receive the figurehead.  The fore edge of the stem was sanded so a graceful bevel was introduced.  Just like on the Winnie.   The forward edge was reduced to 4mm so the space between the legs of the figure will actually fit.  Otherwise the figurehead will not fit...I wont go nutty with the instructions here because so much of this is repeated from the Winnie and other projects.   But this completes the first part of of the project which means its truly official now.
 

The start of my build log...always a very exciting moment for a model builder!!
 
I am assuming most of you are somewhat familiar with the Ketch Rigged English Sloop Speedwell - 1752.   David Antscherl and Greg Herbert have produced a wonderful series of books for model builders on how to build a great model of her.   Not only can you build one as a POF model,  but as a POB and lift model as well.
 
Why would I choose this as my subject.  Those of you that know me,  I have always selected a subject that was unique at the time.  Never been done!!!  The Syren, The Winnie, The Cheerful etc.  I chose this subject for several reasons actually, knowing full well that this would become a commercial laser cut kit like my other Syren projects.
 
First- I never really wanted to build a POF model.  I prefer the look of a fully planked hull myself.  But the craftsman side of me won out as I was looking for a challenge beyond just another POB project.  I can build those and sometimes it feels like I am just going through the formulaic motions with each of them.   This would certainly be a design and engineering challenge as much as a builder challenge.
 


Second-  I am always increasingly frustrated and disappointed to regularly see pirated kits come out almost monthly as of late.  Mostly all the rage are those POF kits from China. 
 
A coincidence??  That almost all of them released are also subjects of Ancre, Seawatch, or Anatomy of the Ship Books.  I think not.
 
You may have noticed the latest pirated kit produced from one of David Antscherl's designs, the Hayling Hoy is now making its rounds.  None of the parts fit as is typical and the instructions render this kit almost unbuildable....again very typical.  Just check out the build logs of pirated Hayling kit from China on other forums.  Its a complete disaster and a waste of money.  Literally unbuildable but they are still selling them to unsuspecting builders.
 
So I reached out to David and Greg and asked them if I could develop the Speedwell before a really bad pirated version is released (and one is actually on the way-surprised?)  They agreed and are as excited as I am about it.  I just dont want to see a crappy unbuildable version of Speedwell being sold to builders.   Hopefully they will wait until this one is released.  Maybe I should do one of Hayling as well. LOL.
 
My goal...to design a kit based on the books where the parts actually do fit.   One that would encourage POF building for folks who want to give it a try.   To also write a set of English instructions that are in depth and easy to understand.  In short, to make a legitimate kit of from a Seawatch book under license and permission from the author with the authors help and guidance.  Will this stop folks from building the knock-off version when it comes out.....probably not.  But at least you will now have a choice.  The pirated version of Speedwell is currently almost ready and being done by the same company who pirated Hayling.   Coincidence again??  I think not.
 
Also and I dont mean to digress....but a pirated version of yet another Seawatch book....Ed Tosti's Naiad Frigate is also set for release very soon as well.   Again a coincidence...I think Not.    Why dont you ever see a subject from these guys that wasnt first a Seawatch Book or Ancre book?   Honest inquiring minds want to know.
 
Anyway
 
There will be differences between my Speedwell of course.  I will be modifying it for simplicity so  you dont have to be a master builder with every expensive tool in shop.   The design concept for this POF model will be unique and allow a novice and intermediate builder to tackle it.   It will also be at 3/8" scale which should also make it much easier to build.  
 
Here is the preliminary framing plan which will show just how different it will be.
 

It will be planked from the wales upward so there is no reason to over complicate the project with bent frames....If you compared this to David's plan it is completely different.  BUT make no mistake.   Yes the folks who pirate these POF projects will claim its different and therefore original. 
 
BUT make no mistake.  This is a 100% copy of Davids work.   All of this is directly lifted from his plans and only modified to make production and building a bit easier.   But it is a copy...literally traced.  But the difference here is I give full credit to David and will be paying for the privilege to use his knowledge and expertise and hard work and years of research on this subject.  
 
I do hope you will swing over a chair and watch this new Speedwell project come to life.  A huge thank you to David and to Greg who will no doubt think I am pain in biscuit by the time this is completed.
 
speedwellsheetone.pdf
 
speedwellsheettwo.pdf
 
speedwellsheetthree.pdf
 
SpeedChapOneMono.pdf

SpeedChapTwoMono.pdf
 
 
 

Moving along to finish the boxing joint.  The first segment of the keel is also laser cut in two layers.   There are laser etched numbers on them.   Glue these two layers together with the numbers facing each other on the INSIDE of the joint.   
 

This does a respectable job of simulating the box joint.

Then tweak as needed to get a tight fit with the stem assembly.  The seams will darken of course when I apply a finish.   But it has all been sanded.   After tweaking the ends of the box joint just a bit to get really tight seams I went over them in pencil again to make sure they would be visible once I apply some wipe on Poly.
 
You will also note how the remaining two segments of the keel are also done in two layers.   It will be impossible to tell that these are done in layers once the rabbet strip and the false keel are added.   It was a good solution to making what could have been a very complex and challenging box joint.   Bolts will be added later. 
 

 
 

Let me dive right in...
 
Dont forget that if you eventually build this kit,  the two volume set from Seawatch will be a must have.   Yes you will spot the differences easy enough,  but the books along with my instructions absolutely compliment each other and you will want to have them at your side.
 
I always like to begin by building the stem assembly.   As was true with Cheerful and the Winnie,  All of the parts are laser cut.  In this case yellow cedar was used.  But there is one major difference.  On the Winnie, you could just punch out the pieces and glue them together with little or no tweaking.  But this model is being built at 3/8" scale.  That means the parts are much thicker than with Winnie.

 
The laser cutter as you know will not cut with the edges at a perfect right angle.  Normally I would just flip some parts and that would do the trick so everyone would get a perfect fit with the edges fitting nice and tight.  These parts however are so thick that even with the best of laser cutter settings, more than just an exaggerated bevel is produced.   When the wood starts to reach 5/16" or 3/8" thick, the laser starts to introduce a slight curve as well.   Most of this can be compensated for by doing my usual flipping of parts.
 
But where the edge is narrower, lets say at the end of scarph joint....the flipping isnt enough.  So each part has been strategically made a fraction longer on one end only so you can make adjustments for the tightest fit possible.
 
In fact...most edges still dont need to be touched and I recommend that you dont touch almost all of them.  I have taken the liberty of circling every edge in the stem knee assembly that should be tweaked.   I am talking about knocking off the char and sanding the edge very slightly to get a really nice fit.  Just a few swipes with a sanding stick along these narrower edges and you will have a perfect fit.  Not too much though.  Test the it regularly and flip it over to look at the joint on both sides.   
 
Just a quick hitting with the sanding sticks on the edges marked with red circles will make these parts fit nice and tight.
 

Also Note 
 
The lower end of the stem will form an actual and true boxing joint.   But to simplify the building process this segment of the stem needs to be built in two layers.  I will do this a lot on this project which you will soon see.  Make sure you assemble the two layers carefully and have the longer piece on the correct side.   The two halves were glued together first and then that segment was glued onto the completed head/stem assembly after tweaking the scarph joint for a tight fit.  Hope that makes sense.
 

Also note above the dashed red line where the boxing joint will be.  The top layer of the stem was left a bit longer than needed to assure it could be trimmed back flush with the end of the gripe.  I used a sharp #11 blade to slice it back so it was flush and neat.  You can see this was done on my assembly already but once you glue that segment of the stem on your assembly you will see its just a hair too long....that was done intentionally so you could get a great fit on your model and the boxing joint will have nice tight seams.
 
Once completed the thinner knee of the head was also sanded and installed...note how that is pre notched to receive head timbers much later in the project.  Just center it port to starboard.   Dont sand any laser char off at all until you test it on your assembly.   It will fit almost perfect from the get go so only the edges that are visible after gluing it in position should be sanded free of char.  This piece can be delicate so more than one laser cut piece is provided just in case.
 
Now it was time to thin down and taper the entire head assembly to receive the figurehead.  The fore edge of the stem was sanded so a graceful bevel was introduced.  Just like on the Winnie.   The forward edge was reduced to 4mm so the space between the legs of the figure will actually fit.  Otherwise the figurehead will not fit...I wont go nutty with the instructions here because so much of this is repeated from the Winnie and other projects.   But this completes the first part of of the project which means its truly official now.
 

The start of my build log...always a very exciting moment for a model builder!!
 
I am assuming most of you are somewhat familiar with the Ketch Rigged English Sloop Speedwell - 1752.   David Antscherl and Greg Herbert have produced a wonderful series of books for model builders on how to build a great model of her.   Not only can you build one as a POF model,  but as a POB and lift model as well.
 
Why would I choose this as my subject.  Those of you that know me,  I have always selected a subject that was unique at the time.  Never been done!!!  The Syren, The Winnie, The Cheerful etc.  I chose this subject for several reasons actually, knowing full well that this would become a commercial laser cut kit like my other Syren projects.
 
First- I never really wanted to build a POF model.  I prefer the look of a fully planked hull myself.  But the craftsman side of me won out as I was looking for a challenge beyond just another POB project.  I can build those and sometimes it feels like I am just going through the formulaic motions with each of them.   This would certainly be a design and engineering challenge as much as a builder challenge.
 


Second-  I am always increasingly frustrated and disappointed to regularly see pirated kits come out almost monthly as of late.  Mostly all the rage are those POF kits from China. 
 
A coincidence??  That almost all of them released are also subjects of Ancre, Seawatch, or Anatomy of the Ship Books.  I think not.
 
You may have noticed the latest pirated kit produced from one of David Antscherl's designs, the Hayling Hoy is now making its rounds.  None of the parts fit as is typical and the instructions render this kit almost unbuildable....again very typical.  Just check out the build logs of pirated Hayling kit from China on other forums.  Its a complete disaster and a waste of money.  Literally unbuildable but they are still selling them to unsuspecting builders.
 
So I reached out to David and Greg and asked them if I could develop the Speedwell before a really bad pirated version is released (and one is actually on the way-surprised?)  They agreed and are as excited as I am about it.  I just dont want to see a crappy unbuildable version of Speedwell being sold to builders.   Hopefully they will wait until this one is released.  Maybe I should do one of Hayling as well. LOL.
 
My goal...to design a kit based on the books where the parts actually do fit.   One that would encourage POF building for folks who want to give it a try.   To also write a set of English instructions that are in depth and easy to understand.  In short, to make a legitimate kit of from a Seawatch book under license and permission from the author with the authors help and guidance.  Will this stop folks from building the knock-off version when it comes out.....probably not.  But at least you will now have a choice.  The pirated version of Speedwell is currently almost ready and being done by the same company who pirated Hayling.   Coincidence again??  I think not.
 
Also and I dont mean to digress....but a pirated version of yet another Seawatch book....Ed Tosti's Naiad Frigate is also set for release very soon as well.   Again a coincidence...I think Not.    Why dont you ever see a subject from these guys that wasnt first a Seawatch Book or Ancre book?   Honest inquiring minds want to know.
 
Anyway
 
There will be differences between my Speedwell of course.  I will be modifying it for simplicity so  you dont have to be a master builder with every expensive tool in shop.   The design concept for this POF model will be unique and allow a novice and intermediate builder to tackle it.   It will also be at 3/8" scale which should also make it much easier to build.  
 
Here is the preliminary framing plan which will show just how different it will be.
 

It will be planked from the wales upward so there is no reason to over complicate the project with bent frames....If you compared this to David's plan it is completely different.  BUT make no mistake.   Yes the folks who pirate these POF projects will claim its different and therefore original. 
 
BUT make no mistake.  This is a 100% copy of Davids work.   All of this is directly lifted from his plans and only modified to make production and building a bit easier.   But it is a copy...literally traced.  But the difference here is I give full credit to David and will be paying for the privilege to use his knowledge and expertise and hard work and years of research on this subject.  
 
I do hope you will swing over a chair and watch this new Speedwell project come to life.  A huge thank you to David and to Greg who will no doubt think I am pain in biscuit by the time this is completed.
 
speedwellsheetone.pdf
 
speedwellsheettwo.pdf
 
speedwellsheetthree.pdf
 
SpeedChapOneMono.pdf

SpeedChapTwoMono.pdf
 
 
 

Moving along to finish the boxing joint.  The first segment of the keel is also laser cut in two layers.   There are laser etched numbers on them.   Glue these two layers together with the numbers facing each other on the INSIDE of the joint.   
 

This does a respectable job of simulating the box joint.

Then tweak as needed to get a tight fit with the stem assembly.  The seams will darken of course when I apply a finish.   But it has all been sanded.   After tweaking the ends of the box joint just a bit to get really tight seams I went over them in pencil again to make sure they would be visible once I apply some wipe on Poly.
 
You will also note how the remaining two segments of the keel are also done in two layers.   It will be impossible to tell that these are done in layers once the rabbet strip and the false keel are added.   It was a good solution to making what could have been a very complex and challenging box joint.   Bolts will be added later. 
 

 
 

Let me dive right in...
 
Dont forget that if you eventually build this kit,  the two volume set from Seawatch will be a must have.   Yes you will spot the differences easy enough,  but the books along with my instructions absolutely compliment each other and you will want to have them at your side.
 
I always like to begin by building the stem assembly.   As was true with Cheerful and the Winnie,  All of the parts are laser cut.  In this case yellow cedar was used.  But there is one major difference.  On the Winnie, you could just punch out the pieces and glue them together with little or no tweaking.  But this model is being built at 3/8" scale.  That means the parts are much thicker than with Winnie.

 
The laser cutter as you know will not cut with the edges at a perfect right angle.  Normally I would just flip some parts and that would do the trick so everyone would get a perfect fit with the edges fitting nice and tight.  These parts however are so thick that even with the best of laser cutter settings, more than just an exaggerated bevel is produced.   When the wood starts to reach 5/16" or 3/8" thick, the laser starts to introduce a slight curve as well.   Most of this can be compensated for by doing my usual flipping of parts.
 
But where the edge is narrower, lets say at the end of scarph joint....the flipping isnt enough.  So each part has been strategically made a fraction longer on one end only so you can make adjustments for the tightest fit possible.
 
In fact...most edges still dont need to be touched and I recommend that you dont touch almost all of them.  I have taken the liberty of circling every edge in the stem knee assembly that should be tweaked.   I am talking about knocking off the char and sanding the edge very slightly to get a really nice fit.  Just a few swipes with a sanding stick along these narrower edges and you will have a perfect fit.  Not too much though.  Test the it regularly and flip it over to look at the joint on both sides.   
 
Just a quick hitting with the sanding sticks on the edges marked with red circles will make these parts fit nice and tight.
 

Also Note 
 
The lower end of the stem will form an actual and true boxing joint.   But to simplify the building process this segment of the stem needs to be built in two layers.  I will do this a lot on this project which you will soon see.  Make sure you assemble the two layers carefully and have the longer piece on the correct side.   The two halves were glued together first and then that segment was glued onto the completed head/stem assembly after tweaking the scarph joint for a tight fit.  Hope that makes sense.
 

Also note above the dashed red line where the boxing joint will be.  The top layer of the stem was left a bit longer than needed to assure it could be trimmed back flush with the end of the gripe.  I used a sharp #11 blade to slice it back so it was flush and neat.  You can see this was done on my assembly already but once you glue that segment of the stem on your assembly you will see its just a hair too long....that was done intentionally so you could get a great fit on your model and the boxing joint will have nice tight seams.
 
Once completed the thinner knee of the head was also sanded and installed...note how that is pre notched to receive head timbers much later in the project.  Just center it port to starboard.   Dont sand any laser char off at all until you test it on your assembly.   It will fit almost perfect from the get go so only the edges that are visible after gluing it in position should be sanded free of char.  This piece can be delicate so more than one laser cut piece is provided just in case.
 
Now it was time to thin down and taper the entire head assembly to receive the figurehead.  The fore edge of the stem was sanded so a graceful bevel was introduced.  Just like on the Winnie.   The forward edge was reduced to 4mm so the space between the legs of the figure will actually fit.  Otherwise the figurehead will not fit...I wont go nutty with the instructions here because so much of this is repeated from the Winnie and other projects.   But this completes the first part of of the project which means its truly official now.
 

We shall see when production starts.   The biggest issue is getting enough sheets of milled Yellow Cedar and being able to laser cut so many parts with only one machine.  I really dont want to buy more machines.  Dont have the room.  I cant possibly store or even expect Joe to mill the hundreds and thousands of sheets needed to meet demand.  
 
Like the Longboat kit and Barge kit,  its tough for me to meet demand.   I wont discontinue any kits but think of them like the McRib sandwich.  It may be months if not a year before I find the time to make more of them and have enough wood to do so.
 
But eventually the McRib sandwich will be back for everyone to enjoy...personally I think the sandwiches are disgusting but you get what I mean.
 
Chuck

Moving along to finish the boxing joint.  The first segment of the keel is also laser cut in two layers.   There are laser etched numbers on them.   Glue these two layers together with the numbers facing each other on the INSIDE of the joint.   
 

This does a respectable job of simulating the box joint.

Then tweak as needed to get a tight fit with the stem assembly.  The seams will darken of course when I apply a finish.   But it has all been sanded.   After tweaking the ends of the box joint just a bit to get really tight seams I went over them in pencil again to make sure they would be visible once I apply some wipe on Poly.
 
You will also note how the remaining two segments of the keel are also done in two layers.   It will be impossible to tell that these are done in layers once the rabbet strip and the false keel are added.   It was a good solution to making what could have been a very complex and challenging box joint.   Bolts will be added later. 
 

 
 

Let me dive right in...
 
Dont forget that if you eventually build this kit,  the two volume set from Seawatch will be a must have.   Yes you will spot the differences easy enough,  but the books along with my instructions absolutely compliment each other and you will want to have them at your side.
 
I always like to begin by building the stem assembly.   As was true with Cheerful and the Winnie,  All of the parts are laser cut.  In this case yellow cedar was used.  But there is one major difference.  On the Winnie, you could just punch out the pieces and glue them together with little or no tweaking.  But this model is being built at 3/8" scale.  That means the parts are much thicker than with Winnie.

 
The laser cutter as you know will not cut with the edges at a perfect right angle.  Normally I would just flip some parts and that would do the trick so everyone would get a perfect fit with the edges fitting nice and tight.  These parts however are so thick that even with the best of laser cutter settings, more than just an exaggerated bevel is produced.   When the wood starts to reach 5/16" or 3/8" thick, the laser starts to introduce a slight curve as well.   Most of this can be compensated for by doing my usual flipping of parts.
 
But where the edge is narrower, lets say at the end of scarph joint....the flipping isnt enough.  So each part has been strategically made a fraction longer on one end only so you can make adjustments for the tightest fit possible.
 
In fact...most edges still dont need to be touched and I recommend that you dont touch almost all of them.  I have taken the liberty of circling every edge in the stem knee assembly that should be tweaked.   I am talking about knocking off the char and sanding the edge very slightly to get a really nice fit.  Just a few swipes with a sanding stick along these narrower edges and you will have a perfect fit.  Not too much though.  Test the it regularly and flip it over to look at the joint on both sides.   
 
Just a quick hitting with the sanding sticks on the edges marked with red circles will make these parts fit nice and tight.
 

Also Note 
 
The lower end of the stem will form an actual and true boxing joint.   But to simplify the building process this segment of the stem needs to be built in two layers.  I will do this a lot on this project which you will soon see.  Make sure you assemble the two layers carefully and have the longer piece on the correct side.   The two halves were glued together first and then that segment was glued onto the completed head/stem assembly after tweaking the scarph joint for a tight fit.  Hope that makes sense.
 

Also note above the dashed red line where the boxing joint will be.  The top layer of the stem was left a bit longer than needed to assure it could be trimmed back flush with the end of the gripe.  I used a sharp #11 blade to slice it back so it was flush and neat.  You can see this was done on my assembly already but once you glue that segment of the stem on your assembly you will see its just a hair too long....that was done intentionally so you could get a great fit on your model and the boxing joint will have nice tight seams.
 
Once completed the thinner knee of the head was also sanded and installed...note how that is pre notched to receive head timbers much later in the project.  Just center it port to starboard.   Dont sand any laser char off at all until you test it on your assembly.   It will fit almost perfect from the get go so only the edges that are visible after gluing it in position should be sanded free of char.  This piece can be delicate so more than one laser cut piece is provided just in case.
 
Now it was time to thin down and taper the entire head assembly to receive the figurehead.  The fore edge of the stem was sanded so a graceful bevel was introduced.  Just like on the Winnie.   The forward edge was reduced to 4mm so the space between the legs of the figure will actually fit.  Otherwise the figurehead will not fit...I wont go nutty with the instructions here because so much of this is repeated from the Winnie and other projects.   But this completes the first part of of the project which means its truly official now.
 

The start of my build log...always a very exciting moment for a model builder!!
 
I am assuming most of you are somewhat familiar with the Ketch Rigged English Sloop Speedwell - 1752.   David Antscherl and Greg Herbert have produced a wonderful series of books for model builders on how to build a great model of her.   Not only can you build one as a POF model,  but as a POB and lift model as well.
 
Why would I choose this as my subject.  Those of you that know me,  I have always selected a subject that was unique at the time.  Never been done!!!  The Syren, The Winnie, The Cheerful etc.  I chose this subject for several reasons actually, knowing full well that this would become a commercial laser cut kit like my other Syren projects.
 
First- I never really wanted to build a POF model.  I prefer the look of a fully planked hull myself.  But the craftsman side of me won out as I was looking for a challenge beyond just another POB project.  I can build those and sometimes it feels like I am just going through the formulaic motions with each of them.   This would certainly be a design and engineering challenge as much as a builder challenge.
 


Second-  I am always increasingly frustrated and disappointed to regularly see pirated kits come out almost monthly as of late.  Mostly all the rage are those POF kits from China. 
 
A coincidence??  That almost all of them released are also subjects of Ancre, Seawatch, or Anatomy of the Ship Books.  I think not.
 
You may have noticed the latest pirated kit produced from one of David Antscherl's designs, the Hayling Hoy is now making its rounds.  None of the parts fit as is typical and the instructions render this kit almost unbuildable....again very typical.  Just check out the build logs of pirated Hayling kit from China on other forums.  Its a complete disaster and a waste of money.  Literally unbuildable but they are still selling them to unsuspecting builders.
 
So I reached out to David and Greg and asked them if I could develop the Speedwell before a really bad pirated version is released (and one is actually on the way-surprised?)  They agreed and are as excited as I am about it.  I just dont want to see a crappy unbuildable version of Speedwell being sold to builders.   Hopefully they will wait until this one is released.  Maybe I should do one of Hayling as well. LOL.
 
My goal...to design a kit based on the books where the parts actually do fit.   One that would encourage POF building for folks who want to give it a try.   To also write a set of English instructions that are in depth and easy to understand.  In short, to make a legitimate kit of from a Seawatch book under license and permission from the author with the authors help and guidance.  Will this stop folks from building the knock-off version when it comes out.....probably not.  But at least you will now have a choice.  The pirated version of Speedwell is currently almost ready and being done by the same company who pirated Hayling.   Coincidence again??  I think not.
 
Also and I dont mean to digress....but a pirated version of yet another Seawatch book....Ed Tosti's Naiad Frigate is also set for release very soon as well.   Again a coincidence...I think Not.    Why dont you ever see a subject from these guys that wasnt first a Seawatch Book or Ancre book?   Honest inquiring minds want to know.
 
Anyway
 
There will be differences between my Speedwell of course.  I will be modifying it for simplicity so  you dont have to be a master builder with every expensive tool in shop.   The design concept for this POF model will be unique and allow a novice and intermediate builder to tackle it.   It will also be at 3/8" scale which should also make it much easier to build.  
 
Here is the preliminary framing plan which will show just how different it will be.
 

It will be planked from the wales upward so there is no reason to over complicate the project with bent frames....If you compared this to David's plan it is completely different.  BUT make no mistake.   Yes the folks who pirate these POF projects will claim its different and therefore original. 
 
BUT make no mistake.  This is a 100% copy of Davids work.   All of this is directly lifted from his plans and only modified to make production and building a bit easier.   But it is a copy...literally traced.  But the difference here is I give full credit to David and will be paying for the privilege to use his knowledge and expertise and hard work and years of research on this subject.  
 
I do hope you will swing over a chair and watch this new Speedwell project come to life.  A huge thank you to David and to Greg who will no doubt think I am pain in biscuit by the time this is completed.
 
speedwellsheetone.pdf
 
speedwellsheettwo.pdf
 
speedwellsheetthree.pdf
 
SpeedChapOneMono.pdf

SpeedChapTwoMono.pdf
 
 
 

Moving along to finish the boxing joint.  The first segment of the keel is also laser cut in two layers.   There are laser etched numbers on them.   Glue these two layers together with the numbers facing each other on the INSIDE of the joint.   
 

This does a respectable job of simulating the box joint.

Then tweak as needed to get a tight fit with the stem assembly.  The seams will darken of course when I apply a finish.   But it has all been sanded.   After tweaking the ends of the box joint just a bit to get really tight seams I went over them in pencil again to make sure they would be visible once I apply some wipe on Poly.
 
You will also note how the remaining two segments of the keel are also done in two layers.   It will be impossible to tell that these are done in layers once the rabbet strip and the false keel are added.   It was a good solution to making what could have been a very complex and challenging box joint.   Bolts will be added later. 
 

 
 

Moving along to finish the boxing joint.  The first segment of the keel is also laser cut in two layers.   There are laser etched numbers on them.   Glue these two layers together with the numbers facing each other on the INSIDE of the joint.   
 

This does a respectable job of simulating the box joint.

Then tweak as needed to get a tight fit with the stem assembly.  The seams will darken of course when I apply a finish.   But it has all been sanded.   After tweaking the ends of the box joint just a bit to get really tight seams I went over them in pencil again to make sure they would be visible once I apply some wipe on Poly.
 
You will also note how the remaining two segments of the keel are also done in two layers.   It will be impossible to tell that these are done in layers once the rabbet strip and the false keel are added.   It was a good solution to making what could have been a very complex and challenging box joint.   Bolts will be added later. 
 

 
 

We shall see when production starts.   The biggest issue is getting enough sheets of milled Yellow Cedar and being able to laser cut so many parts with only one machine.  I really dont want to buy more machines.  Dont have the room.  I cant possibly store or even expect Joe to mill the hundreds and thousands of sheets needed to meet demand.  
 
Like the Longboat kit and Barge kit,  its tough for me to meet demand.   I wont discontinue any kits but think of them like the McRib sandwich.  It may be months if not a year before I find the time to make more of them and have enough wood to do so.
 
But eventually the McRib sandwich will be back for everyone to enjoy...personally I think the sandwiches are disgusting but you get what I mean.
 
Chuck

Moving along to finish the boxing joint.  The first segment of the keel is also laser cut in two layers.   There are laser etched numbers on them.   Glue these two layers together with the numbers facing each other on the INSIDE of the joint.   
 

This does a respectable job of simulating the box joint.

Then tweak as needed to get a tight fit with the stem assembly.  The seams will darken of course when I apply a finish.   But it has all been sanded.   After tweaking the ends of the box joint just a bit to get really tight seams I went over them in pencil again to make sure they would be visible once I apply some wipe on Poly.
 
You will also note how the remaining two segments of the keel are also done in two layers.   It will be impossible to tell that these are done in layers once the rabbet strip and the false keel are added.   It was a good solution to making what could have been a very complex and challenging box joint.   Bolts will be added later. 
 

 
 

We shall see when production starts.   The biggest issue is getting enough sheets of milled Yellow Cedar and being able to laser cut so many parts with only one machine.  I really dont want to buy more machines.  Dont have the room.  I cant possibly store or even expect Joe to mill the hundreds and thousands of sheets needed to meet demand.  
 
Like the Longboat kit and Barge kit,  its tough for me to meet demand.   I wont discontinue any kits but think of them like the McRib sandwich.  It may be months if not a year before I find the time to make more of them and have enough wood to do so.
 
But eventually the McRib sandwich will be back for everyone to enjoy...personally I think the sandwiches are disgusting but you get what I mean.
 
Chuck

We shall see when production starts.   The biggest issue is getting enough sheets of milled Yellow Cedar and being able to laser cut so many parts with only one machine.  I really dont want to buy more machines.  Dont have the room.  I cant possibly store or even expect Joe to mill the hundreds and thousands of sheets needed to meet demand.  
 
Like the Longboat kit and Barge kit,  its tough for me to meet demand.   I wont discontinue any kits but think of them like the McRib sandwich.  It may be months if not a year before I find the time to make more of them and have enough wood to do so.
 
But eventually the McRib sandwich will be back for everyone to enjoy...personally I think the sandwiches are disgusting but you get what I mean.
 
Chuck