Mumin

Hachette in Italy just anounced partwork "La Belle 1684":
 
http://www.costruiscilabelle.it/ 
 
if I understand correctly, "tecnica dell'arsenale" means "admiralty model"

They have Canadian webpage... in French only : http://hachettecollections.ca/contact.php

From what I can see here, Mexico is covered by their division Salvat, so you can contact them directly: https://mx.salvat.com/home/contact

They have Canadian webpage... in French only : http://hachettecollections.ca/contact.php

Hachette in Italy just anounced partwork "La Belle 1684":
 
http://www.costruiscilabelle.it/ 
 
if I understand correctly, "tecnica dell'arsenale" means "admiralty model"

Hachette in Italy just anounced partwork "La Belle 1684":
 
http://www.costruiscilabelle.it/ 
 
if I understand correctly, "tecnica dell'arsenale" means "admiralty model"

Zoly,
 
I wish you hadnt posted that.  Shaking my head in disbelief.  Within five minutes of your post,  it was reported to the staff and I received a few PM's as well. 
 
you do know that book is copyright and the author is actually still alive and kicking.   Many of our members know him personally.  You should really buy that book to support him rather than download and steal PDF versions and also offer them to anyone who asks.  It is my understanding that you have quite a collection of bootlegged Anatomy of the ship books, and others ..... often sharing and exchanging them through this site digitally.
 
We cant allow such behavior at MSW.  It is a violation of our rules and unethical no matter how you slice it.  You have been a member for so long it baffles the mind how you could post that....still shaking my head in bewilderment.   
 
Chuck

Thanks for likes and comments! 
Re manual - haven't really used the text part of it yet, pictures are quite self-sufficient, and the text is written in a very heavy and formal way (like a precise specification), which should be handy in some complicated parts of the build.
 
As expected, very rough and ugly first planking was easily faired  Now it provides a smooth and round foundation for planking.
Daria enjoyed it as well - she liked the transformation of smth rough to smth smooth. That took some efforts though!
 
Sanding:

Scraping:

 
Smooth vs rough:

 
End result: 



 
She ended up complaining that I was sanding myself too much (we were doing it in turns), and insisted that I should not touch it, let her finish without assistance. Hoorray!

 
P.S.: the build is on hold due to summer holidays that Daria will mostly spend with her grandparents, so will be back in September!

I've just noticed this message on the webpage:
 
To our foreign customers. The translations of manuals into English are currently at the beta state. They are correct, but the language is a little rough. Here is the list of translations that can be downloaded: MK0302 Schooner Polotsk
 
Might come in handy

I've just noticed this message on the webpage:
 
To our foreign customers. The translations of manuals into English are currently at the beta state. They are correct, but the language is a little rough. Here is the list of translations that can be downloaded: MK0302 Schooner Polotsk
 
Might come in handy

I've just noticed this message on the webpage:
 
To our foreign customers. The translations of manuals into English are currently at the beta state. They are correct, but the language is a little rough. Here is the list of translations that can be downloaded: MK0302 Schooner Polotsk
 
Might come in handy

I've just noticed this message on the webpage:
 
To our foreign customers. The translations of manuals into English are currently at the beta state. They are correct, but the language is a little rough. Here is the list of translations that can be downloaded: MK0302 Schooner Polotsk
 
Might come in handy

Hi Eddie,
 
I have the Carbatec 10" Bandsaw. It's okay for what it is, but it is quite limited in terms of the blade options available. For example, you won't be able to any re-sawing (I think that's the correct term) with it.
 
If I were buying again, I'd save my shekels and go for the Laguna 14" SUV Bandsaw.
 
Regardless of which bandsaw you buy, you should check out this YouTube clip of how to set up a bandsaw properly:
 
 
 
 

Wouldn't it be better to drill small holes and use the pin-pusher?

As I understand, Mantua kit is in scale 1:84 and Mamoli was 1:150. And the second one is not in production at the moment, you should ask Daniel Dusek about it (his company bought the rights to Mamoli models).

As I understand, Mantua kit is in scale 1:84 and Mamoli was 1:150. And the second one is not in production at the moment, you should ask Daniel Dusek about it (his company bought the rights to Mamoli models).

One thing you did, but didn't mention, is that you used location bumps and indentations in your molds. The readers can see them in the corners of the RTV molds, in several pictures. For those who don't know what they are for, it is to align the molds. If you leave these out, getting them lined up so the casting will not have the two halves skewed, when you take them out of the mold, is extremely difficult.

First I decided not to issue this at all, but after having seen here elsewhere Chuck`s tutorial about casting the thin carvings out of PU, I decided to publish also my method to cast cannon barrels. I have used this method many times before when building my car & tank models, so I had a little experience about the chemicals and working methods also before starting to cast cannons.
 
The first thing was naturally to turn a pattern for the barrel in the lathe:
 

 
 
 
 
Next thing to do is to make a spruce, a channel through which the liquid resin is poured into the mold. For this a piece of 3 mm iron wire was used:
 

 
 
 
 
And then we can start making the mold. First a small box was made of 3 mm MDF. The pattern together with spruce was installed into one of the walls of this box, approximately at half height of the short wall. Then liquid silicone rubber was poured into the box so that the level is at the middle of the barrel. Sorry that there is no picture of this phase.
I was using Oomoo 25 silicone rubber, made by Smooth-On. It consists of two parts A and B, small amount of each is measured into a small container, mixed thoroughly and poured into the box. When cured, releasing agent was applied to the lower part of the mold and new batch of silicone rubber was made and poured to the box and let cure.
 
This is how the first half of a mold looks like, when dismantled from the box. The pattern with spruce is still on its place:
 

 
 
 
 
And here you can see the both halves of the mold. A cone is provided at the top of mold where resin is poured. Small air venting channels are also cut at the top of the barrel to have air to escape when resin is poured into mold:
 

 
 
 
The mold is closed and polyurethane resin is prepared by using equal amounts of part A and B of the Smooth Cast 305 resin from the same manufacturer as the rubber. Parts are stirred very carefully and poured into the cone of the mold. It would have been possible at this phase to add some metal powder to the resin, to have the barrel really look like cast out of metal. I have however found out that if metal powder is added into the resin, it will become very stiff and doesn`t flow very easily into the spruce & fill the barrel cavern completely.
 

 
 
Resin has been poured and it can be seen that it has raised into the air venting channels too, which proves that the barrel cavern is filled as well:
 

 
 
After the resin has cured and mold opened, the spruce and barrel look like this:
 

 
 
Now it remains only to clean the barrel, drill holes for the axle pin, ignition powder and naturally for the cannonball, and glue a small glass pearl into the back of the barrel:
 

 
 
 
 
And finally paint the barrels. I wanted them to look like old patinated bronze, so I mixed Model Master gloss black enamel paint with AK Interactive`s old bronze metal color. Diluted them so that the paint could be airbrushed on the barrels. And finally, when dry the barrels were wiped lightly with a soft cloth to get the look of old patinated bronze:
 

Well done....excellent reference for casting cannon.   I also find that sometimes air gets trapped int the trunnion pin of the molds even when vented.  But a good solution I found was to make the trunnion much longer as the air seems to be trapped on the extremities of the pin mostly.  Making the pin about 1/8" longer on each side does the trick.   Then you can just cut them off to the proper length before you use them.
 
Chuck

Sorry, Grant, but I've only just caught up with your log and seen the issues you raised in post #169, viz:
 
"The things I need to think about that I came away with were:
Deck furniture issues with the boom pin rail and windlass and position of pretty much everything, the first model showing the companionway forward under the boom and facing aft with different grate/light positions. One question here is the second model showed 3 additional hand-cranked small windlasses, what are those and were they common? Topmast forward of the mainmast.  Two sets of braces for main and top square sails. Only I don't understand why there are two sets, why not just run them forward to keep them clear of the spanker boom? Seems overly complicated to run them to two places." The first issue has been answered as the Trial shown in the picture had an experimental drop keel.
 
In relation to the topmast, there was some discussion of it in the Sherbourne build logs by myself, Dirk (Dubz), Kester (Stockholm Tar) and Gregor -- as there was over a lot of other historical details to do with cutters. I made my own choice of putting it fore of the main mast not only because it was placed that way in a number of contemporary models and paintings, but also because it makes a lot of mechanical sense -- seeing that the mainsail rigging and all that weight now comes off the lower and larger mast. It might well be worth going through the logs I have mentioned above because the discussions also cover many of the points of interest you are likely to come across in the Lady Nelson. However often the decisions are personal, as the original NMM plans were either inadequate (e.g. gunport hatches, rigging) or hard to distinguish. In any event those NMM plans did at least point to a number of inaccuracies of the kit (companionway, windlass). And the kit pieces are often too gross for comfort (pumps, tiller, belaying pins, cannon).
 
I'm only a novice (Sherbourne was my first build, and I'm still working on my second) so I'm sure others with greater knowledge will provide better answers. For the rigging, I would strongly recommend Marquardt's Eighteenth Century Rigs and Rigging, which can be obtained quite cheaply. It is a very good companion to Petersson, which is excellent for clarity and general understanding, but has a few errors of its own.
 
I see that, just as for the Sherbourne builders, you've had your share of woes with the gunports. Some people ignore the cutouts in the kit bulwarks and make their own with planking cutouts after first assaying positions and heights with card cutouts of guns on carriages.
 
Tony

Now I can really put this one to bed!

There are some build logs here on Woody Joe kits - check member Clare Hess' completed kit models.  Most who have seen or built the kits think they are pretty good - at least the Japanese wooden boats.
Kurt

What is the meaning of the word "arsenal" in this case? I know that the historical ruins called "Arsenali" (eg. in Heraklion, Crete, from Venetian period) are in fact places where the ships were build, not the places to store the weapons/armaments.
If that's the case, then the term "admiralty model" is very close, or even the same?
 
Edit: link added

An arsenal is a place where we build and arm the warships. It's also in this place where the first models that represented the vessels under construction were realized. These models have given the term "arsenal model" The term is indeed equivalent to "admiraly models".   GD

What is the meaning of the word "arsenal" in this case? I know that the historical ruins called "Arsenali" (eg. in Heraklion, Crete, from Venetian period) are in fact places where the ships were build, not the places to store the weapons/armaments.
If that's the case, then the term "admiralty model" is very close, or even the same?
 
Edit: link added