noel_colledge
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Everything posted by noel_colledge
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Tools for Masts and Spars
noel_colledge replied to JRB9019's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If you are looking at hand tools I would recommend looking at the veritas range of miniature tools. They are good quality tools, not cheap versions of their bigger cousins, hold a good edge and very useful. I would suggest the block plane and spoke shave to start. Many places sell them including Axminsters, or RDG Tools, You can use the bigger ones but I feel these work better on the smaller scales. -
John, A good home made Christmas pudding laced with Brandy for 3 months before hand is joy to behold, and space must be left in the pudding belly for this and the White sauce (Not Custard) also laced in Brandy after the festivities even if you have to wait an hour or two afterwards in order to consume. Shop brought ones like everything else claiming tradition or otherwise are only as good as the ingredients and love that has gone into making them.
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Check to make sure your blade is in the right way round Jon, you should be cutting on the down stroke on a scroll saw so the blade pulls back into the table. This may be your problem. Regards Noel
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Hi Keith Thanks for the info, nice easy solution for you. I would not have thought about the difference in braided and ordinary twist rope for the time line of your vessel. Just another tick on your exquisite attention to detail list. Regards Noel
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Hi Keith You may have answered this question earlier on in you log, if so apologies I have missed it. Are you using commercial line for your rigging or have you made your own, if so where are you getting your raw material and what are you using? Regards Noel
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Hi Aviaamator, Nice work on the Jacinthe. Are you basing the ship on the Boudroit Monograph and scaling it up or using some other source. Looking to have a go at this next and trying to get information together. Keep up the good work sir.
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Hope this is allowed, please remove if not. This link may help you for a free download for John Bratten's book which has a lot of good information in it about the gunboat https://bookqu.ml/public/epub-free-download-the-gondola-philadelphia-and-the-battle-of-lake-champlain-mobi-1585441473.html Regards Noel
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Not being a person of the sea, I have favoured modeling ships of history over more modern vessels such as you have produced here. I had never before looked at a modern Yacht as a thing of beauty. Having read through your log over the last three days, I can see that my perceptions are not only wrong but way out the ball park. I guess having the experience and ability of sailing your own, you have more of an insight into the components and mechanical workings of the modern day yacht than myself living in the middle of old Blighty. This shows in your understanding and explanations of how things should work when working out sketchy or obscure drawings and pictures I now go away thinking of different methods to produce items, and not just the obvious way. Trying to hold several components MM2 vertical while also trying to keep the glue off my tools and fingers. Seems so obvious now. Your craftmanship shines through Keith, thank you for sharing.
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Hi Neil No association but here is another good source to try. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/ship_fittings.html Regards Noel
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How long will it stay that neat I wonder? Do you have a gating system for your extraction pipes? Great working area
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Wonderful work sir, and the photoshop picture of yourself next to your carved figure brought a smile to my face Did you have to prepare the Ebony in any way before laminating it or did it hold well with without, other than a roughing with sandpaper? Noel
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I like the stain you have used on the outside. Was it an Oak biased? Building this from the Smithsonian plans at the moment, the kit looks pretty accurate to their drawings
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Welcome from across the border in Herefordshire. Good luck with the Barque Noel
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Wonderfully intricate.. What size Die have you used to tap that bolt?
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If you have a table saw as well, then the scroll saw would probably do you. I have both but tend to use the band saw more with different blade sizes for different tasks. With a band saw of the size you are looking at you are not going to get a lot of accuracy in re sawing logs as it will only take a 13mm blade, but you would be ok with cutting down smaller squared off timber which you would not be able to do with the scroll saw. You can also buy a scroll saw on flea bay quite cheaply so why not buy the band saw and spend the difference on the scroll saw, then you would have both Noel
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Nice work, Have you given thought to the overall weight of your finished project and how you are going to move it to its final resting place? Your pictures put it into perspective just how big and heavy this is going to end up being.
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If it only needs to be roughly 7mm, clamp it to a piece of softwood using double sided tape if you have it. Mark the first piece and cut 3/4 the way through and then move on to the second piece. Continue until you have all the pieces you need, then move back to the first cut to finish off, it should only take a stroke. You can move along the cuts giving you more control for the final ones as you don't have to cut as much wood. Also try using a Japanese saw with a very fine cut. This cuts on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke which if used against a back stop gives better control. You can also try using an Exacto ( Or similar) saw backwards but it's not so good. To finish off put all the pieces together and brush lightly with sandpaper glued to a board to keep square.
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I have used the Trend unit in the past, it is very good but can feel heavy on the neck after using it for a while, and the screen scratches easily. Also uses cheap materials to construct for the price you pay for it. Filters are expensive and need to be replaced regularly particularly in heavy use Battery is not Li-on so takes a long time to charge, Oh and the fan motor is very noisy It also does not stop the whole workshop gathering a layer of dust. One of the better protection devices for personal use agreed, but as they say the best type of dust control is not to create it in the first place. Two pennies worth over
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Brought some of these clamps, they are really good. Anyone that needs them in the UK, Axminster and C Z Tyzak do them. Thanks again for the information Johann Best Regards
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Thank you Johann for the link. Your reply makes it sound like you would not be capable of making them. It would not be surprise a to all that follow your work to know you did, as I am sure everyone would agree. You are more than capable. Best regards
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I like your clamp, is this an item you have made?
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Really enjoyed watching your progress, learned quite a few things as well. Thank you for taking the time to explain and share your build. Well done it is a great achievement and a credit to your skills Noel
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Thank you Johann. I was thinking more of soft wax, did not think of the hard Furniture scratch repair sticks. I can see how this would make the task a lot easier. Thank you for explaining Regards Noel
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Just spent the last few days looking through your build. As everyone has said it is superb, thank you for giving me plenty of ideas how to tackle jobs on my first scratch build. I have a beginners question relating to your treenails. I can see from your posts that you drill and insert dark wax to give the effect, but how do you stop the wax from over filling the grain surrounding the hole?They look so crisp. Do you sand and seal the timber first then drill? Am I right in thinking the overall finish is wax and not a sprayed lacquer? Also can you please share what products you are using to get that mirror finish on your timbers. Thanks Noel
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