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noel_colledge

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Everything posted by noel_colledge

  1. I would agree with Tom for the time, but it will all depend on how much you are stressing the plank. If you are pre-forming the plank so you are just laying it on then 20 mins is more than enough. If on the other hand you are not pre-forming, and expecting it to hold then yes I would say you will need several hours so it does not spring back. Noel
  2. Guessing because no picture You may have used the wrong size collett for the bit you used and then overtightened the lock nut for the spindle. You should be able to lock off the spindle to the proxxon and gently twist and pull the collett away with a pair of soft pliers. If you don't have soft pliers then use ordinary pliers but put something around the collect first so you do not mark or distort it, else it probably won't fit right again. A gentle tap on the pliers with a mallet may also help. Good luck
  3. Great video, this is what Utube is for in my opinion. Thanks for finding and sharing
  4. If you are looking to mill mild and stainless steel I would not suggest the Proxxon MF70. It is a great machine for light work such as wood or brass, but those materials over time will put too much pressure on the bearings. I take it from the currency quoted you are in the UK. I have an Axminster SX2 for larger work and although too heavy for your needs, they do a smaller model the SX1, it is a little lighter than the taig. I am very pleased with the Axminster and have no doubts it's little brother will do the job also. Noel
  5. Hi Keith, Not my experience if you apply properly and use the proper stuff, the quantity is so small for crack filling. If you do get a crack, then reheat and apply a little more.
  6. Mark, I agree sawdust and glue is the traditional way, but have you thought of using hard wax and a heating tool similar to how furniture restorers repair faults, it comes in all shades for all types of wood and for minor issues runs into crevices easier than a sawdust mix. Best regards. Noel
  7. Maybe it is a trick of the camera, but when you place all those deadeyes together in their appropriate sizes, you can see how wrong kits are with their one size fits most approach. Who would have thought half a millimetre would make that much difference to a deadeye. You are certainly a master rigger amongst other things Johann. Bravo.
  8. Hi Vaddoc just a thought, has your steaming process caused your timber to expand, and therefore give you your new fitting issues
  9. Welcome Pete, from across the channel.
  10. Would the Salinity of the sea at departure and destination also have a bearing on the amount of ballast taken on board, especially if travelling over the equator.
  11. Hyw, Your workshop was incredible before, be interesting to see how it is improved with redecoration.
  12. They are also discussed here on this forum in the tools and workshop equipment section under Miniature Russian carving tools
  13. Nice video's buddy, thanks for sharing. I love the opening line on your web site for this build. All the best Jarod. Noel
  14. Congratulations on completing your masterpiece. I guess if you put a scenic view behind the model it would be hard pressed for anyone to say it was not the real thing. Thanks for the inspiration. Here's to the next one.
  15. Hi Stuglo I feel for you after doing the same thing myself about 4 years ago. Almost took it clean off though. I now have a half working thumb with next to no feeling sensation which can be interesting at times when trying to pick things up. Be thankful you only broke the surface and did not cut through any tendons, you should heal fine with a new respect for the tool. Thank you for your informative build log. Noel
  16. So is the next question, What sort of Jack did they use, doubt it would be hydraulic, so some form of high lift? and Where did they store it when not needed?
  17. I disagree Bob. Like most tools there is a learning curve and a technique, using the fingers rather than the hand and not too deep. So long as the tool is sharp it cuts perfectly. Also like most tools there is a time and place to use it My favourite in the range are the planes though
  18. They are very good but the wooden handles do not stay attached for long before they start coming undone or breaking. Recommendation is that you epoxy these in place before the bikes in the handles get too big or you break them.
  19. I will chip in with a high from South West Wales.
  20. Thanks for explaining makes a lot of sense to contain within boundaries. Sometimes I feel we over complicate things to confuse ourselves on purpose.
  21. Hi Vaddoc What cad package do you use, I am trying to hard to do the same principle as yourself on a pinnace drawn by Harold Underhill on Fusion 360. Not been a cad literate person I am finding the experience frustrating trying to draw in 3d, especially the frames. Yours look very smooth, especially from frame to frame. Do you use control points, and then flexible spline, a control spline command with dimensions or some other method. Thanks Noel
  22. I think i would prefer to see this method rather than 3d printed versions, and why would you put a barnacle on such a beautiful piece of craftmanship if you are not a carver. We can't be skilled in every aspect of our hobby and I see no difference between this and using a milling machine or a lathe to create joints and components.
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