Jump to content

CDW

NRG Member
  • Posts

    7,290
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CDW

  1. By the way, I acquired a conversion chart that gives the correct correlation/cross-reference of the many various paint colors that match Mig Ammo paints and their color numbers. I am not going to post the chart here as I am afraid it may be proprietary and not suitable for posting on the net in a public forum. If you want a copy of what I have, send me a PM and I will share it with you.
  2. I've learned that when working with a detailed model on this small scale, it's important to work over a surface that will catch your small dropped parts and not allow them to bounce and wind up in places unknown. If you are anything like me, you will drop parts. They are so small, it's just part of the game. I found that laying a white terry cloth towel over my work surface will catch the parts when I drop them and make them easy to spot, gray parts on a white surface. This funnel is nowhere near complete, and it already took seven separate parts to arrive at the stage as you see it here. Lots more parts to finish it.
  3. Got a bit of bad news from my local hobby paint supplier when I learned that there will not be another shipment of Mr Color paints for another 6 - 12 months. Not certain of the cause, but it might be Covid related. On a positive note, my supplier became the US distributor for Mig Ammo paints. I've had good results with those in the past but they were hard to come by. Now they are here in my town in full stock. Will have to learn the conversion for them as almost all Asian models give color call outs in Mr Color reference numbers.
  4. The secondary and main guns got a coat of light gray, then the tops of the turrets will be done in a medium gray.
  5. The rear deck now in place, the main deck is ready for guns and superstructure components.
  6. Those are not the photo etch chains. Those are the molded on chains which I chose not to remove and replace with two dimensional photo etch chains. The wooden deck calls for removal of the molded chains and replacing them with photo etch. I think that's a bad idea in this particular case because of the quality of the Flyhawk molded plastic details.
  7. I mixed three parts Tamiya flat white with one part Tamiya flat buff and I think it's pretty close for a match. After it dries, will use a little dark wash and it should be good to go. Need to come back and detail touch-up those molded chains.
  8. Started laying down the wood deck pieces. The molded anchor chains are quite good and acceptable, but unfortunately must be removed in order to install the small wood deck pieces around them/under them. The replacement for the chains is photo etched chain and not quite as nice as the molded chains because the PE chain is 2 dimensional. Maybe I will test some paint to try and match the color of the wood deck and just paint the small deck areas around the molded chains and that way leave them in place.
  9. I can hardly believe how small some of the parts are cast. Parts 10 and 11 are so small, they are lost in the creases of the face on the coin.
  10. That works perfectly for straight gun barrels, but the Scharnhorst gun barrels are stepped down. Larger diameter at the base then smaller diameter for the length of the barrel. The brass barrels are turned on a lathe to achieve that step in diameter.
  11. While the injection molding is superb on this Flyhawk kit, the brass barrels do make a difference. Here I began working on the secondary guns first by cutting off the plastic barrels. Our dog gets daily injections of insulin to control his diabetes. The left over syringes come in handy as micro drills as they are super sharp and very thin, much thinner than any of the twist drill bits I have. By far these are the smallest barrels I have worked with to date.
  12. Curing the new paint in the dehydrator at 105 degrees F. for a couple of hours. This makes the paint very durable and resistant to damage from handling later on.
  13. Here is my chief model inspector and chowhound, Jasper. He's patiently waiting for me to get the black primer down on my hull.
  14. The PT Boat looks great Denis! Our daughter was telling us today that you guys in NH are going to be getting some more snow tonight or in the morning. Bummer.
  15. Overall hull length is about 13", maybe a little less. Plastic is on the soft side, making it easy to sand down. Molded on details very clean and crisp. Just wanted to capture some photos of it before laying down primer.
  16. After I open the parts bags, I want to photograph the sprues. You won't believe the fine detail of the molded parts. Makes you realize how far this hobby has come in the past few years. The parts molds nowadays are light years ahead of what we thought was great 10 or 20 years ago. I didn't want to open the parts bags until I am ready to use them in fear of breaking and/or losing the parts. They are that small and delicate. With this one started, I am now interested in the other 1:700 ship models Flyhawk makes. I never much cared for 1:700 scale before because it was so small and often parts looked out of scale and cartoonish. Not with Flyhawk. Downside is, they are a little on the pricey side.
  17. Finally made a humble start on the shiny horse last night, gluing together the upper and lower hull parts then a little sanding and filling of the seams. Now that I look at this kit more in detail, it becomes obvious the model can be built quite nicely straight out of the box except you would need some photo etch railings. The plastic parts are extraordinary, fine details and molded very much to scale. Even the metal barrels are not entirely needed. I'm even thinking I may have been better off with a precut masking set for the deck (cheaper) rather than the wood deck. I'll wait until I have more done before taking some photos. I think this is going to be a fun little build and quite pleasing to the eye with the molded details.
×
×
  • Create New...