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CDW
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Thanks for the primer, Ken. For a while now, I have been eyeballing Japanese steam locomotives. They had some very interesting looking machines, similar to the Br-52 but more modern I think. Certainly big locomotives, the Japanese ones. -
Steps 19, 20, and 21. The details are piling up with each successive step completed. Before it's all done, it's going to be difficult to pick up this model without running the risk of knocking off some small part. I suppose these are called the drive mechanism. Someone with more railroad knowledge will need to help me with terminology.
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Step 18 involves construction of the brake linkage system, a couple of ladders and braces. The brake linkage system is well modeled with this kit. It appears the brakes were air (or steam) assisted. You can see the boosters at the rear of the loco tying into the linkage.
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Have you guys seen the Winnebago that's made from Lego like parts? I was very surprised how realistic it comes out. It's in something like 1:32 scale or something close to that. It has a numbers of well cast figures (including Dale) that are pre painted that come with it.
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Thanks again for the kind comments guys. I need to take back some of the disparaging things I said about the Trumpeter vinyl parts...I did find a glue that worked with it. Perseverance pays off every now and then. 🙂 Here on this side is the Trumpeter vinyl piping using E-6000 glue to bond it to the plastic parts. I added the wheels and other parts to the side that was unfinished (steps 16 and 17). After this, will do some more shading and highlights before moving on to the next steps of construction.
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No, I don't know exactly. However, deterioration of the core is one thing and deterioration of the lead/tin quite another. I have no doubt the solder will be around longer than probably either you or I. However, it's suitability for joining a bond as solder has a short shelf life. I have some very old solder around and deterioration of it has not happened in more than 10, maybe even 20 years.
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Oh, by the way, I am told the purpose of the piping was to distribute sand upon the track rails ahead of the wheels...to give traction when needed, like possibly in snowy/ice conditions. Once the wheels have been installed, the piping will be cut to the appropriate lengths.
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Step 15 calls for installation of pre-formed piping from the kit. The kit piping is cast in a vinyl material that cannot be glued, making it totally unsuitable. To work around this conundrum, I am using thin solder to re create the piping with the kit parts as a template. If I had some appropriate sized soft copper wire, I could have used that in lieu of solder but solder is nice because of how pliable it is. The bands that hold the piping together are made from scrap photo etch sprue. A header was made from styrene plastic strip stock.
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Our admirals may have been born on a Friday, but it wasn't last Friday. 😄
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Thanks Denis. To be totally honest, the money spent for the Eduard photo etch set was a waste as the kit itself has more than sufficient detail. It was aggravating that neither the kit nor the Eduard set contained the instrument dial faces for the cab interior. Made me wonder how the heck they could have missed that detail? 95% of the photo etch is redundant and does not enhance the model to a sufficient degree to make it worth the time and effort to put it on. Even their paint masks are rather useless for me as they were made to create the two-tone paint work for the red/black version wheels. Didn't even include masks for the windows. 😕
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The focus today was on steps 13 and 14. The loco was given a wash, then the various parts in steps 13 and 14 were added.
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Thanks for the kind words Jan. Right now, she's 41cm in length. With the coal tender, she should measure approximately 65cm total length.
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Thanks OC. In retrospect, I should have painted the camouflage once I finished each sub assembly, then assembled everything after the paint was dry and masking removed. Would have made it a much easier process rather than the way I did it. Live and learn but model on. 🙂
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Tonight's review is my humble beginning on the Br-52 camouflage paint job. Colors are Tamiya field grey reduced with Mr. Color leveling reducer, and Vallejo Model Air middlestone shot straight from the bottle. Trust me, there was a ton of masking to do this little bit. Because of the details that later get added to the loco, it was essential to start the paint job now, as once the details start piling up it will be virtually impossible to mask it off for the camouflage. Most parts added later will need to be assembled in sub assemblies, then painted and installed.
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Thanks for sharing these awesome videos, guys. This locomotive is a beast. Would love to ride this train...better start saving for that trip. The good thing, this train leaves such a very small and minuscule carbon footprint. 😄😮
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In tonight's review of my build sequence, we will cover steps 9, 10, 11, and 12. These are some photographs of the steps that were completed today. The last photo shows my H&S airbrush along side the Br-52, just to give some idea of the scale of this model. It's really huge at 1:35 scale, and this is without the coal tender or rail gun attached! A model like this will require a lot of space to display it, that's for sure. Very soon, I will begin painting the loco in the field gray and middlestone camouflage pattern. As a side note regarding construction/fit, the upright supports upon which the boiler rests upon the chassis supports were approximately 1 mm too short. Apparently, this is a manufacturing/engineering defect as others building this model have said the same thing. It's easily corrected by adding some strip stock as shims on the upright supports. If you look closely, you will see the white strip stock that was added in contrast to the light gray plastic of which the model is molded.
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I see some vague similarities between the model and the cabin in the video, but certainly not exact. Trumpeter is well known for errors in their models, errors that drive some modelers nuts. Fortunately for me, I am not one of those modelers easily discouraged by details that are not exactly precise. Now if I was very familiar with a particular subject, it would probably bother me much more.
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In this installment, we complete steps 7 and 8, finishing construction of the cab minus the four little clear vent windows which I will install after the exterior paint (later during construction). As I said yesterday, once the rear panel and roof are installed, it leaves a very small view of the cab interior details. After the coal tender is attached, even the small hole in the rear bulkhead will be sealed from view leaving only the windows to look inside. The stock kit parts are very well detailed and those details should pop out well after paint, washes, and dry brushing. I am looking forward to getting some paint on the model. It's going to be painted in the camo pattern seen in the first post, Field Gray and Middlestone. In my next installment, I will be covering multiple steps that finish up most of the boiler and firebox with these assemblies being mated to the cab.
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Thanks Denis. Here we go with another installment on the BR-52 German Loco Step 6 - the cab interior I will do some minor shading and detailing of the cab interior, but there's not much sense in going too far because it all gets pretty well covered up once the cab is finished with the roof and rear cab panel. There is very little I know about locomotives, so if anyone cares to call out exactly what the various cab interior components are, please do. Unfortunately, the plans give no call-outs to identify the various (almost 800) parts except for a part number.
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An incredible B-17 story...it's worth watching but beware, the graphics are poor. The story more than makes up for that.
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Thanks guys. Every now and then, I have found projects that are nostalgic and basic provide me with a refreshing escape from long, drawn out projects that requires weeks/months to finish. This has been one of those quickies.
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