CDW

I need to think about the big-picture for my models. A single display case is not enough, so I am thinking if I can find something that will be 'modular' in nature, that would be my best bet. And like you said, display case lighting is something to consider as well.

I am going to check out the Abordage website. Your case looked great. 

The case you ordered and assembled for the Victory looked stunning. It's a bit of sticker-shock to learn the cost of a display case is almost twice the cost of the actual model. But it is what it is.

Soon, I will have to face the same dilemma on how to display my Victory. Hmmm....decisions, decisions. 

Craig

Mike

Thanks for your reply. The closed ports in those locations nearest the bow make sense. However, at this stage of construction, my instruction manuals show the ports being cut open, into the planking. I assume that perhaps they will end up being closed like yours after final construction.

Are you a lifetime resident of Mt Dora? Many years ago, my two oldest siblings attended a private boarding school there. They often spoke of the good memories and friends they met while going to school there. They worked the fields in the summers when school was not in session. Probably something that's unheard of today.

Regards

Craig

Now here is another layman's take on it...if the original artist or owner does not take action to stop illegal use of their copyright material, they can actually lose their rights to it. At least that's what I've been given to understand when asking why it's so hard these days to find some of the original company logo decals for particular types of scale models. The mfg. must get permission from the company who owns the rights to whatever it is. Ford, Chevrolet, etc.

Hi Mike

A great build thread, and a happy ending for the Victory. Sharing it with others at the Public Library is a fine gesture and gives ship modelers a reputation boost for doing that. Kudos!

I am currently building the Model Space version of this kit, which I believe is identical in most respects (if not all) to your AL version.

Have just laid the first six planks on each side of the ship, marked the gun ports, and will drill then cut them out next.

My question is, what will the dummy guns fasten to in the two gun ports (port and starboard) closest to the bow? Inside all the other gun ports, it's obvious the drill must make a hole in the board behind each port. But the two forward ports closest to the bow have no such board behind them. Did you add something for the dummy gun barrels to attach to?

Regards

Craig 

I can't say for sure, but from what I can see, it seems they repackage the original kit parts in their own bags with construction numbering sequence.

One thing about the De Agostini (Model Space) kits, they give beautifully illustrated manuals for each construction phase chock full of full color photographs and historical data/specifications. The collection of manuals will be a nice addition to my library when it's all done.

Also, they claim they will happily replace any lost or broken parts, but I have yet to need to challenge the offer. Their customer service line is always easy to reach and seem helpful. For someone like me, who is getting back into the hobby after a long hiatus, their detailed instructions are a plus.

Craig

PS: The 1:250 Akagi kit might be an exclusive item. I have not found reference to any other Mfg. of the kit anywhere on the net. The same may be true for the 1:250 Yamato, but it's not available in the USA as far as I know. If it comes available, just may pop for that one. The 1:200 plastic kit of the Yamato is in the same price range as the Model Space kit. 

Gaetan

How easy is it to change the blade on the Hegner saw? I watched a YouTube video for the Excalibur saw, and really liked the fact that the saw frame is hinged, so it raises to change the blade quickly. In the video, the owner has a cup of coffee sitting on the cutting table while the saw is running full speed. There is no vibration whatsoever showing on the cup of coffee. 

Craig

What a litigious world we live in today. Lots of land mines out there, for sure.

While I'm no lawyer, I wouldn't be surprised if some people/companies use strong-arm tactics to extort money from people whether the law would actually support their claims or not. Just the threat of having to defend yourself in a lawsuit is enough to cause many of us to pay off, just to mitigate the damage.

It is well known there are many such companies out there who will do exactly that.

All that being said, the most sage advice is likely what the previous poster just said...unless you took the picture yourself, don't post it. 

Craig

My plan is for a new Excalibur scroll saw, next. No more 'cheap' scroll saws for me. They have only brought me aggravation and very low quality work.

They're loud, they shake, and cannot make accurate cuts. I am ready to throw the el-cheapo scroll saw I own in a dumpster or give it to the scrap man. I'm better off cutting by hand rather than using this cheap, under-performing saw.

That's turning out real nice, Mike. 

I once owned that kit some years ago, then sold it when I needed to relocate some inventory in my garage. Wish I had kept it along with a number of other, hard to find model ship kits. The price of those have gone up quite a bit since I first bought one years ago.

Regards

Craig

Paul

Does the deck use a contact cement that's been pre-applied, or is it something else? In one thread, I saw the modeler slightly peel the paper backing from the bottom of the deck and then get it started. As he aligned it, he slowly peeled the backing away, pressing the deck down as he went.

Was that your experience with applying the deck?

Craig 

In my plastic ship model stash, I have a number kits that have been around and in my possession quite a few years. One is the 1:350 Trumpeter USS Essex carrier; another is the 1:350 Tamiya King George V. Just to get some experience on a less expensive model first, I may buy a wood deck for the KGV and do it first, just for practice. That way, if I make mistakes I won't feel so badly about it. With that kit, I also have an old Gold Medal PE set, and a set of metal gun barrels and props. It should be good experience and practice before tackling the Iowa.

I have realized the Pontos detail set for the Essex is maybe just as complex as the Iowa. So I won't try that kit first.

Craig

I'm a novice ship builder. I'm working on the USS Constitution by ME.Since I have no experience in ship building the kit was perfect for me. If I had just bought the plans I wouldn't even know where to start but as time has passed I have learned so much from all the talented builders here on MSW. I've learned there is a basic order to building a ship and now after I complete the Conny I will most likely try my hand at scratch building. I think cutting the bulkheads and keel would be the most difficult parts to cut and if you think about it after you assemble the bulkheads and keel from a kit most of the rest of a kit is scratch build.

 

Greg H.

Being a long-time modeler, and looking at the big picture with 20-20 hindsight...if I had it to do all over again, would concentrate my initial efforts on acquiring good quality tools, such as saws, clamps, a lathe, a planer, a good scroll saw, etc. 

All this would be in anticipation of scratch building. It is so rewarding and satisfying to build from scratch. Alas...the temptation to buy instant gratification through a kit has always been so great, I failed to take the time and develop the discipline to acquire the proper tools, first. But then again, I mostly did the best I knew how at the time and only realized the better scratch-building solution after years went by.

Most important thing is to have fun and don't make the hobby a job. It should be a pleasure, not a source of frustration and regret. A guy can have a lot of fun with kits. I know, because I have.

Regards

Craig

Denis,

What a great story - and an excellent looking little model. Those grandsons are going to be thrilled!

Craig

There's another purpose of this site... the build logs, the questions and answers.  They all do more for sorting things than any "official review" could ever do.  There's several manufacturers do read and post here and listen to what's being said.  

This is SO true. Since coming back to this site after many years away, it's an invaluable resource to learn, or in many cases, relearn, what it is I do not know or have otherwise forgotten.

Did not know until last night that the DeAgostini kits of the Victory and Surprise were actually the AL kits....which can be bought for half the price! 

I just found this thread.

FYI, I have two of the Model Space kit subscriptions. The HMS Victory and the Japanese WW2 1:250 scale Aircraft Carrier, Akagi.

I am at month 6 with the Victory and month 5 with the Akagi. Both kits are very good quality. The support of high quality construction videos and excellent construction manuals make the progression of each build very well explained with loads of full color photographs. The manuals also contain a lot of historical information and photos. 

I am very well pleased with both models. I do wish the Yamato was offered in the USA. Maybe one day soon?

Do you have a little strip cutter? It's a plastic tool that uses a #11 X-Acto blade. The blade adjusts vertically for the depth of cut (thickness of material) and a screw adjusts the width of the cut. It allows you to buy sheet material and quickly cut your own strips for planking or other uses. Comes in very handy; I use mine a LOT. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAA63&P=ML

Through National Balsa, you can buy some exotic 1/32 sheets of wood, then use the strip tool to cut your own strips. That can also save you a lot of money when you're on a budget. I will often double plank using a thin veneer (1/32) for the final finish. I just use contact cement to apply them to the planking after the entire model is planked.

Old Man

Try these guys out for your wood supplies. Their prices are very reasonable and you'll stretch your dollars a lot further buying from them rather than the variety store.

http://www.nationalbalsa.com/

Regards

Craig

Chuck, you are so right about golf even though I don't play I understand it is very costly.

Okay, with golfing you will spend time out in the fresh air, in comparison to our workshops.

My foray into golf ended when I was 18 years old. I made a mighty, smooth swing with a driver.....and promptly lost my grip, tossed the club about 300 yards. After suffering much laughter from onlookers and a stern tongue lashing from my football coach (who thought I did it on purpose), never picked up a set of clubs again. 

I apologize in advance for the really poor quality of my photos. Just don't have the appropriate setup yet to do them as they should be done.

But here is the Fletcher with all but maybe some minor weathering that I might do in the future. Haven't decided for sure yet.

The sailor figures came from Shapeways...the people who do the 3D printing. I bought a set in battle gear as well as a set in normal sailor dress. The figures used are the battle gear set.

For now, am going to call this one done. It was a good choice for me to get back into the hobby after a long hiatus. When you return to the hobby after a long time, you realize just how much you've forgotten. The good news is, most of it comes back into memory quickly after that first kit gets put under your belt.

In retrospect, I could have done a much better job of planning my construction sequence and completed a much better paint job. I got much too far ahead of myself in construction and that limited what I could do to achieve an authentic paint scheme. But as it is, it's easy on the eyes and looks rather convincing to most anyone I know who sees it, as most do not know even a fraction of what is is/is not authentic with respect to paint schemes and such unless perhaps they actually served on that or a similar ship.  

At least it's not quite as bad as what I have been guilty of doing in the past...buying expensive kits and letting them sit on a shelf until some parts and plans became ruined. In some cases, have lost entire kits for one reason or another. 

I've seen the magnets at Harbor Freight, very very cheap.

Channell

The work you did to correct the Iowa hull to the proper shape was very impressive. Not only did the conversion require a lot of work, you had to search and find an appropriate set of 3D drawing, or at least some that had sufficient cross-section detail to allow the conversion. 

Personally, I wouldn't want to spend the time to do that much correction. With a ship of this size and complexity, maybe I should reconsider that attitude. If I am going to go to the trouble to spends months adding a detail set, why not correct the hull while I'm at it. At least I will have your pictures and comments as a how-to guide.

Thanks for the kind words, Tim.

I want to get this finished because I have some very old subjects waiting in the wings. Going to knock the dust off and build them.

A few more pictures