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CDW

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CDW

  1. There’s a whole ZM family of F-4’s out. I wanted the F-4E, but it’s on back order for now.
  2. The 1:48 scale F-4G from Zoukei Mura. I wanted a Phantom on my shelf and decided to build this one for that spot. It won’t be started until I finish my current F.2B project.
  3. Yes, top and bottom wings are supported, and each wing incidence angle can be set separately. I rig the top wing before gluing the struts in place. Once the struts are in place with glue dried, I will attach the rigging from the top wing to the bottom wing.
  4. It didn’t come with instructions so finding the best way to set it up is a bit of trial and error. What I want it to do is hold everything in position at the correct angles and spacing to allow the wing struts to be glued into correct position. The way I pictured the device with the model in place is not ideal for this task. It needs to be in a nose down attitude to best achieve this ( in my opinion). The device is capable of this but it takes patience to set it up the first time. If you notice, the upper wing of many biplanes sit forward of the lower wing. It helps a lot to know this angle. The device has a graduated scale in degrees for this purpose. It also allows for setting the correct wing incident angles.
  5. Thanks Rob. Just ordered some from Amazon. For any that might be interested, check out and bookmark a great WW1 model aircraft site: ww1aircraftmodels.com
  6. Where did you source the Pyrn thread? I read about it but never used it. My experience with photo etch is limited to a Tamiya Swordfish. It sagged.
  7. Thanks Rob. Hope it doesn’t disappoint too much but I won’t be doing flat rigging with this model. Wasn’t prepared to source the materials needed which on first thought would need to be photo etch. Could possibly do it by repurposing some small scale ship railing but in this case will cheat and use round rigging instead.
  8. I will use this contraption to align the wings and glue the struts in place. It’s not aligned yet, just posed for a “before” photo. The “after” photo will come later.
  9. Here you can see the odd way the lower wing is mounted to the fuselage as well as how the landing gear struts pass through the wing to attach to the fuselage.
  10. Have a little paint on the major portion of the kit now. Will add more paint to the struts then will begin the assembly of the sub assemblies 😁 Mucho weathering and rigging to follow.
  11. I disassembled my three kit books and took the pages to Office Depot for copies on their laser color printer. I got one full size copy and one half size copy of each book for a grand total cost of $20 after tax. That’s a total of 24 pages on similar paper as the original. 4 of those pages were 11x17. Great quality as well as great price IMO. I won’t be cutting my original books any more from this point forward. Copies only.
  12. For any of you that own this kit or a variation of it from Eduard, be aware the instruction part number call outs for the fuselage - lower wing struts are backward. Test fit the strut fuselage to wing fit before gluing the parts to the fuselage. If you don’t do this, you will find out the hard way and likely need to scratch build another set of struts.
  13. Fuselage is ready for paint. The F.2B had a unique wing mounting system on the bottom wing. The wings have been primed in white while the rib locations are pre shaded n black before color coats.
  14. Good lighting, optical magnification, and a great sound track of your choice. The sound helps keep me in a zone that ignores the tedium.
  15. The upper and lower wings each have need of 20 tie-off points for rigging. The fuselage needs 6 points, 3 on each side. Next steps will include prepping and painting the wings. Will pre-shade the wings before color coats. I may paint the rounders depending on how the decals look. Eduardo usually have nice decals but we shall see.
  16. I received these in the mail today but won’t start them until I scan and reduce them to 1:72 scale first for printing. I have frames on order from Poland.
  17. Chris I found this fellow's paper modeling channel. Builds some very nice models in 1:72 scale after he scaled them down from 1:33 kits. I like the channel and am learning a lot from watching his videos.
  18. Been doing a bit of research and homework on card modeling before I make another attempt at it, albeit this kit is toast I do have others waiting on the wings (no pun intended). One lesson learned is how easy it is to screw up a part or even a whole parts page. What I would like to do is scan my kit then scale it down from 1:33 to 1:48 or 1:72. Question is, what’s the best home printer to use for a good quality color print? Is it a better idea to just have it color printed by a commercial printing service? I don’t think my ink jet printer is up to the task of a good quality print.
  19. Airbrush clogs most usually come down to the ratio/mix of paint to thinner. With acrylic paints, a flow improver additive is sometimes needed to stop needle tip drying. Play with your mix ratios on scrap until you find the correct mix. It's a problem that happens to all of us, particularly when you go from one brand of paint to another because each have their own peculiar quirks it seems to me.
  20. Just this morning debris contractors began collecting debris created as a result of Hurricane Ian on our street. Our damage was next to nothing compared to counties south of us. It will take years, maybe decades for them to recover.
  21. Wife and I going to our 50th school graduating class reunion tonight.
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