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Bob Fraser

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  1. Bob Fraser
    After2 years almost to the day since starting this log, I'm calling this finished. The upper deck brass rail was done in a single run which shows up a few flaws in the height of the posts and ended up pulling some of the loops off the top of the posts, as well as a few posts off the deck on the bow due to having to pull the curve back through the straight run and reproduce the new curve as it went through. The kinks in the straights have been sorted. The benches are a bit clunky, and the extra decorative works are a bit too fancy for my liking, so she's now a passenger / cargo boat. As a first build the things I've learned are many, as were the mistakes 😱. (Too many to list!) First and foremost, don't be afraid to ask for help or take advice from others who are more knowledgeable. Save all your scraps, you never know when they'll come in handy! Be patient, especially when bending things! Measure a number of times before cutting. Don't be afraid to make changes to something already made to make it look better. Walk away when it frustrates you - it'll come right later with fresh eyes. Try new things to extend your skill level, even if only a little you'll enjoy the challenge. If it's a generic model lidy who has looked in, liked, commented, given advice and helped me along the way, it's been greatly appreciated.
  2. Bob Fraser
    That's a very smooth hull there! Got me looking for this- hope I've got it correct. The original prototype build log by Chuck when designing this model had the frames as 1/32"sq. Doing a side a time he placed a stopper length of 1/32sq along the keel to help hold the ribs in place. The entire longboat build is pages 421 - 444 in the pdf available in the resources, Chucks prototype log, which I've got to help with myself understanding build processes. I've just read the official Syren instructions as well. I think you may have the same image retention for numbers as me, as on page 67 the 1/16 refers to the max thickness of the boats hull, and the next paragraph says to use the 1/32sq for the keel rib and side ribs just as the prototype log says, and is shown on the photo on p69. First time I read it I carried the 1/16 forward for the rib size. I've jumped in with both feet before and used the wrong thickness planking before reading at the next step about the right one. 😬 It'll be easier to bend the 1/32sq stuff 😃
  3. Bob Fraser
    Good idea @Auger ! I just have so many kit supplied "nails" I put one of those in and cut the head off, (I forgot on the stairs) plus I don't have a drawplate! 🤣
  4. Bob Fraser
    Thanks for the looks and likes. Thanks Bob - Inspiration, advice and ideas from others have all helped along the line, not forgetting the kind comments and encouragement too! Plus wanting to make this as individual as I could. Latest updates - not much! After installing the second crane I added a scrap strip of brass as a strengthener across them both using some copper pins I found. Whilst doing that I damaged the star newel post, which I didn't notice! (visible in both photos, now fixed) Second crane and stage added, lower angle to show it off a bit better. Tied off on one side at the deck edge. I've also made up and drilled out a further 17 posts, making 30 in all to be installed on deck 3. Cheers for now,
  5. Bob Fraser
    Looking good there. I like the door windows and vents .
  6. Bob Fraser
    Looking good there Jerry.👍 Not an electronics expert, but you may want to put a resistor in series to drop the voltage to the motor so it runs slower if you can still access the power line. The catching may be due to a sideways slip on the axle? Such a legend - I've watched many a program about him and his work. On a side note, I had to look up Falmouth, MA, just in case. A relative burned the original Falmouth, Massachusetts - now Portland, Maine, in a 1775 attack on the revolutionists of the town.
  7. Bob Fraser
    For the longer stair handrails I made a small jig, which kind of worked out but needed a tweak as the angles weren't quite the same everywhere. The smaller ones were bent by eyeball and pliers. The handrails round the deck - this was done by hand. When pinning the newels to the deck the ones on the curve were angled for the curve. I used a wire straightener and just started at one end, feeding the wire through and giving a slight tweak on the bend to help it round. Once fed through I found it only needed another slight curve with fingers. It's not perfect but it works for me. Still got to check out my newels for proper height ( I'm using HO scale figures for this. AL do have a set of period figures for the King now), and hole levels 😵 for the rest of the deck. Should have made a jig in the first place!
  8. Bob Fraser
    Attatching the blocks to the masts. My lesson learned - don't use wire - it's too stiff to allow the blocks to move, and will snap at the twists. I used it as what I thought would be a quick and secure method, but rope would have taken around the same time and probably looked better. Simply put, the block is attached to the masts by a rope that goes around the outside of it (strop) which can be fitted with an eye or hook as needed, and the rope you pull goes through the hole (sheave). Sorry if above sounds a bit simplistic. Looking through other logs here the simplest method is to put an eye into the mast to tie the block to, or after fixing the rope to the block tying it straight to the mast. How realistic you get is all down to yourself. I'm not at that stage yet, and still learning. There are many masters of this art, but I'm not one of them! Check some of the other King build logs, or logs for the Victory, Pegasus, Cutty Sark etc for ideas on ways to do it or I've put some links below on on previous questions. Link to logs on Seizing , link to logs on Stropping many of which show real world and on model worked examples. The blocks AL supplies are not the best, look at Chucks Syren Blocks if you want realism! I was lucky and found some half decent blocks in my spares, and I put a slight groove in the sides to take the strop so it wouldn't slide off.
  9. Bob Fraser
    Excellent list! Might I add another or two? Learn from any mistakes made in your previous or current model. If you're offered advice on a specific that you don't know or are unsure about for your model by someone, look into it , and don't be afraid to go back and re-do or change if applicable and possible. I know I'm still only on my first, but both have very much applied to me! 🤣
  10. Bob Fraser
    So a weeks gone by, but not quite bye-bye 😄 I did the bow area - capstan, and bitts made up the stage cranes and masts The lower part of the stage is connected to the haul with a removable double hook lift to allow for stowing to th mast after lowering - gets it out of passengers way. Added cleats instead of the rings AL say to use. I didn't really like the clunky crimps on the ropes so they're all replaced - cats had had a chew again anyway! Resited the cleat for the flag to tighten the rope, and installed the flagpole. Another change - I found some turnbuckles in my stash of spare bits I'd bought many years ago and forgotten about. These have now been added into the hog chains. One each fore and aft. Also installed the stage crane on one side Added the stage bracing ropes, changed the eyes for cleats on the uprights and lashing points on deck. Tried to do a proper job on the cleat lashings and coils, they look better from a normal viewing distance. 😂 Thanks for looking in!
  11. Bob Fraser
    You could try adding some 0.5mm planking round the wheelhouse top just wide enough to hide the largest gap. I put in some clear plastic sheet into a rebate in the walls, but that was before the window lining went on. Its going to be an awkward job with everything put together. That just makes it your ship, and different to all the others! I think I recall mine not fitting too well, best bet could be to sand the partners thinner all round to get them to fit. It could be the photo and my eyesight, but is the upper deck not quite centred? I do like the bronzing accent to the whistle - makes it stand out.
  12. Bob Fraser
    From a distant relatives naval biography - "subject of this memoir is the eldest surviving son of Hugh Fraser, Esq., surveyor of the Customs at Lerwiek, in Shetland (and 5th in lineal descent from William, second sonn of Thomas Fraser, of Strichen, Esq., second son of Alexander fifth Lord Lovat, who died in 1558), by Jane, daughter of Rev. Thomas Linning, of Walstein. His maternal grandmother was eldest daughter of John Hamilton, of Gilkersclengh, Esq., descended from the first Marquis of Hamilton. Our officer was born about the year 1761, and when only nine years of age, entered the naval service on board the Fly sloop, commanded by the late admiral Gayton, with whom he served at the reduction of Belleisle" And from th US Powder Monkeys
  13. Bob Fraser
    Hi Jerry Looking good. Your new windows are far better than the original metal ones. Those stairs are everyones bugbear with this kit. If you go to your 1st post and click the three dots on the right you can edit the topic title to change your name.
  14. Bob Fraser
    The parts list carries on at page 25! I had these poles explained to me by @Cathead. They are anti-hogging devices to stop the ship bending up or down at either end when riding over waves that leave it unsupported for some part of its length at one or both ends Parts 202, 203 and 204 labelled "mast turn-buckles" and are 4mm diameter. Those holes are awkward to get right! I ended up replanking parts as i did it differently. Looking at the pictures in the colour booklet the rope runs in a hole drilled through each, front to back at 3, 4 and 5mm from the top measured on the big picture, otherwise it doesn't say! The rope is item 240, called "cable turn-buckle" in the parts list. In real life, from old photos I used for reference, it was usually iron rods connected by turnbuckles for tightening as required, fitted to the mast top. The 2 posts at the stern are part 184, 5mm x 145mm, the steam stacks. I know this is a test fit, but they ony go halfway down the lower deck wall and need to look as if they go into the engine room. Only you'll know, and I doubt very much anyone is going to notice the difference! AL give you only the bare minimum of wood so it's likely there's no spare. She is looking good, the most boring part is yet to come, all those posts and PE fitting. All the best,
  15. Bob Fraser
    Just pulled out my Underhill Vol1. Page 159 gives the following - "In the lower third are three sheaves, representing the old-fashioned 9 pin blocks: a purchase could be rove through one of these sheaves and then more room could be gained for the crew to heave on it." He shows 3 sheaves in the front pinrail pillars, and one in the pillars aft of the foremast, and 3 sheaves in the mainmast front pillars. None on the mizzen. Also noted is that more than one rope was used per belaying pin - could they have been used then to help identify the haul?
  16. Bob Fraser
    Looking good there Jerry. As you build, unless you've plenty of spare, keep all the usable sized scrap wood as AL are very "careful" with the amount they give you.
  17. Bob Fraser
    Thanks for looking in and the likes. Two things today. Foremast and flag. Added a cleat to replace the eye, loops top and bottom of flag, and toggles to the halyard. It can be raised or lowered. Second, one set of stage lifting chains. I chose a different chain with smaller links, and to make it out of one piece with a round seperator. And attached a 2mm single block with a hook stropped and jaws lashed with 0.05mm thread. First attempt at something like this The close up shows just how bad my ropework is! Chainwork still to do on the second stage, and the lower lift attachment on both. Cheers for now.
  18. Bob Fraser
    Cheers Eric. As a long time user of the Mersey Ferries (maybe 25 years) in my youth, I went with the terminology we used. The stage (landing stage) is the floating dock at the end of the bridges, and the ramp is lowered onto the ferry from the stage. At one time, back in the 30s to 60s, in their heyday, they used to have to use three ramps, two on the lower deck - one on, one off, and an off on the upper deck. During busy times you had to guess which ramp was going to be the off one, and start queing half way across the river!
  19. Bob Fraser
    OK - did have a day or two off. Resized the height a touch more and installed the brass top rail. Not perfect, but as close as I'm going to get! Decided to give the stanchions a rest, and to make the boarding ramp cranes, masts and ramps. 2 cranes as I'ved done the straight stairs, not the spirals. Realised I need to change those mast rings for cleats, and first single block on the arm for a double for the second lift rope to travel through. The ramps - At the back is the ramp AL want you to use, basic plywood. New ones made from 1mm x 5mm planks, with side pieces 2mm x 5mm shaped. Finished ramp again compared to ALs. Anti-Slip pieces added, as are strengthening cross members underneath. Still need to add the eyes for the lift and swing ropes.
  20. Bob Fraser
    Stanchions resized, threaded and temporary brass rail added for indicator. "Well Mr Mate," says the Captain, leaning against the railings "what do you think?" "Well Cap'n," says Mr Mate, who knows nothing is fixed in and is standing well back, "they seem OK to me from back here!" More later.
  21. Bob Fraser
    So before I made more I decided to try - just as well. Used the CA needle method to thread the ropes, posts aren't fixed in place yet. They look too high as a brass rail will be fitted through the rings so off they will come. Bottom pins to be removed, holes aligned and sanded shorter for a retry 😅
  22. Bob Fraser
    Hi Daryll. The thread looks good. If you wanted to replace with wire then any good jewelry / haberdashery should have it in. Another builder, Bill97, queried about the run of the anchor chains because of the bend around the hatch. See my reply with photos from another member of the way it goes, Anchor Chain Run, so it doesn't rip the hatch apart and is helped into the chain ports when being raised / lowered.
  23. Bob Fraser
    Bad weekend - ill for 3 days, almost recovered now, and car broke on Friday. New alternator and serpentine belt, pick it up in the morning. Also had the grandkids Friday night to Sunday Night! However, today I managed the upper deck posts - Measured against the crew for height they made 12mm. 30 of them cut, rough shaped and drilled for eyes, pins and rails. Final shape. Holes reamed, pins straightened, cut to short length and filed. These posts will be pinned to the deck for security as they are an easy knock. Started to drill the deck to take the pins. Realised that, even an overmake of 30 isn't enough to take care of the curves required. Back to make another 10 tomorrow - I hope! - after taking the cat for neutering and picking the car up. Cheers for now!
  24. Bob Fraser
    Hi Daryll maybe they were going to go with the original - 4 boats stored the right way up - but changed their minds. It's looking good!
  25. Bob Fraser
    Thanks for the looks and likes, appreciated! Ok - best laid plans and all that meant I didn't sand and oil. I did fix the middle deck railings though! Instead I decided I didn't like the wooden rails on the upper deck. I wasn't really enamoured of them in the first place. Off they came and have been replaced with shiny new double brass rails. Showing the contrast between the original and new. A lot cleaner and neater lines, pleasanter to view. Cheers for now!

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