Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

Bob Fraser

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    275

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Bob Fraser

  1. Bob Fraser
    Not sure of the actual size of these pieces (mine is still cellophane wrapped!) Would you be able to scrape out a recess, or will you be trying for a closer representation?
  2. Bob Fraser
    Looking good!. Just dug my old instructions out - it used to be a thin ply wall covered by 0.5mm thick walnut planking that splintered everywhere.
  3. Bob Fraser
    HI there. I'd like to follow along too. I've the older kit, partially completed on the shelf at the moment for about 18 months due to life! I do still have the printed papers if you need a help. Major differences are the photo-etch brass, the bow stairs to the upper level (changed from spiral to straight / spiral - much easier!) and the paddle axle has more spacing. There are several other builds completed on this site - just ask if you have questions everyone is very helpful! Edit. Just seen the pictorial instructions for this version, and they are much better than the original ones! Cheers, Bob
  4. Bob Fraser
    Bob - it's looking really nice so far - missing parts are sent (or not!) to try us. At least ME are sending them out.
  5. Bob Fraser
    Hi Mike. These Sergal kits do have pretty limited instructions ( I have the President on hold), and they seem to have a penchant for misnaming / representing some models as real ships rather than a type. If you do a search above for "racehorse" in the titles only you'll find some completed models, and the Articles database here has good planking tutorials. This link shows plan details of the Racehorse 1757 and this the Granado 1742 that the model appears to be loosly based on. Whatever you do, have fun with the build and enjoy it. Cheers, Bob
  6. Bob Fraser
    Hi Tom. Have you seen Gil Middletons build of the Vic? And / or Longridges Nelsons Ships page 257/8 which goes into detail of how it is rigged and where the lines are run. I can post some info pics from the book if you wish. Cheers, Bob
  7. Bob Fraser
    These look really good - mine are a bit of a mess as I didn't think of drilling holes until too late 😪, 🤯. I just used a pin pusher, a tool I find is pretty useless when it come to pushing the supplied pins!
  8. Bob Fraser
    Wiki Commons HMS Diana 1794 takes you straight to them. 40 - 113 Mb in size
  9. Bob Fraser
    HI John Just managed to get to my copy of Longridges books, and "straight from the horses mouth" so to speak One source has said that these plates would be in reality about 1mm or just over thick at this size.
  10. Bob Fraser
    HI John Found this on fleabay CS Muntz Plate that is full width and 1/5th length. The blurb says width is 16" and full length would have been 48" max. This is Jock Willis very detailed specs for the CS Specs see item 58 for weights of yellow metal (Muntz) used. The home page of the above CuttySark has a photo of such a plate being applied to the hull close to the keel and rudder. Detail says the overlap should be 1" Hope this helps!
  11. Bob Fraser
    Hi Cleat Looking good! If you've done both sides of the doors you could skin them with some scrap planks. The doorways are quite deep compared to the doors themselves, so it would work. I've just used Danish Oil throughout on mine, it darkened the woods slightly. The pattern on the windows is made by scoring the plastic with a knife at 45 degrees left and right, and then wiping black paint into the lines. Not much is provided, but the thick plastic windows on some supermarket packaging are worth salvaging just in case. As these doors don't open the easiest way is to glue the plastic behind the opening, otherwise put some edging half way into the opening to create a frame to put the plastic into. There's nowhere to hang the doors either, so when it comes to fitting them they'll need a backing piece inside the building to fit them to.
  12. Bob Fraser
    Hi Cleat. The dimensions given for the pieces are 1mm thick by 4mm wide x length. With the straight pieces glue them on with a 2mm overhang so it can be trimmed back to the door when solid, leaving you with the thin edging strip. For the curve, it turns out I cheated and have an inner straight edge and used the door curve to give the upper profile. To cover the open tab slot I chose to edge the buildings with a skirting. As a bonus this covers any gaps between the building and the deck. Your planking looks really good! To get the dark lines people use a soft pencil or felt pen along the edge. Beware of the felt pen as the wood could soak it into the grain. Cheers for now, Bob
  13. Bob Fraser
    Don't know how I missed your build! Good idea! Keep as much of the offcuts as possible as they will come in useful later! 🙂 @Cathead is very much an authority on these ships, and has helped me enormously with mine (still ongoing, and will get a restart in a few weeks!) As @bobandlucy said, consult the large plans for placements, and measure your own build before cutting to ALs lengths, especially for the uprights, as I found they can be out by up to 1.5mm. (Fortunately before wasting too much wood, but the cuts fitted in elsewhere thankfully) Keep up the good work, Bob
  14. Bob Fraser
    Hi Peter I'm along to watch as I've this one on the shelf at the moment, at the same stage as yourself with the hull. Complete lack of time at the moment means all my builds are on hold. :-( I don't know if you've looked at the NMM site but they have 14 technical drawings and a 1947 model that show a lot of detail. Link -> Endeavour at NMM Anatomy of the Ship Endeavour by Marquardt (Conway Press) is a good book, but you'll need to look around for a reasonable price near you as they're going for £35 to an incredible £230! All the best, Bob
  15. Bob Fraser
    A nice clean job, well done. Looks really good and the people do bring it to life!
  16. Bob Fraser
    Well done! Tricky them there stairs..... even AL has discontinued them and brought back the straight ones again.
  17. Bob Fraser
    My bad - It must have been perspective (or my old eyes 😀 )! As you said, only just perceptible when pointed out. The stern of the Mersey Ferry used to be my favourite place to be when travelling to work, watching the wake and the gulls, not to mention the other shipping. Gave me vertigo if I looked down for too long!
  18. Bob Fraser
    Looking the part, Bob. I think a lot of others have had such rants - let off a bit of steam and you definately feel better! 🤯 😁 Wood shortage and poor instructions seem to have been an AL consistency, and I think I had 3 goes at getting those staterooms right! Maybe a little late for you now, but I found that the sideways tilt on the chimneys was caused by the upper crossbeam on the metal part being too long as it hits the fixing spike of the crowns. As Mr Punch would say when he triumphs "That's the way to do it!" Cheers, Bob
  19. Bob Fraser
    That's great news, and a fast response too! The AL instructions say 66 railings (part 211) are needed and I counted 70 in the PE sheets. That should leave me with 8 spares - lets see what happens. All the best!
  20. Bob Fraser
    Hi Bob. Did you get two PE sheets of railings, one large sheet, one small? Let me count how many are needed for the 1st and 2nd decks, and I can send you the spares I have, if this helps any. As you know I messed up the third deck myself, and it has no PE on it. It'll be tomorrow as I can't pull the bits out at the moment.
  21. Bob Fraser
    The wire is hard to get straight, especially if it's kinked. You've the same rolling tool I used to do the job. Some I've read have advocated rolling it between two glass plates to remove kinks. Getting those angles is a pain too, even using a template. They're all looking real good. Looks like you've framed around the base of the stairwell railings? As long as the enjoyment is there, whatever the "flaws" (call them changes, adjustments, amendments, enhancements, scratch build opportunities), things are going well. It's a pleasure to watch your model come alive.
  22. Bob Fraser
    Look at mine - I did something similar and missed out the PE stuff altogether! 👍 Made to your own design - what captain wouldn't want that? 🙂 If you need a piece pm me your address and I'll send some over - having messed up the top tier I do believe I'll have some to spare! Cheers, Bob
  23. Bob Fraser
    Thanks for the reply and info. The Preiser figures are expensive and hard to find period ones too, but they are really good. Shortage of wood is something AL are/were usually known for, fortunately I was able to pick up some part done kits just for the wood at cheap prices many years ago. It's come in handy for other small projects too. Stairs look good, now the body is together it'll start to take on it's own life, and look more like the riverboat. Have had to put mine on hold for now - the workspace and time are now taken up by giant lollipops and sweets being made for doorscaping, as well as the big teddy bears 🤯 😀 (Also got double barrelled by a big old horse (16h+) on my right arm yesterday, looked like Popeyes arm after spinach 🙂 - fortunately no break but badly bruised and sore to move.) Cheers for nnow, Bob
  24. Bob Fraser
    Shame about the lack of wood, but gives the tim to do other things. I'd leave the curved sections until after the stairs are fitted, as this leaves you space to put them in. It's looking really neat - how did you get the triangle embellishments to stay up please? And yet another question, are the haybales and horses Prieser or another make? I've 2 crew figures but haven't thought about the passengers or animals yet. Cheers, Bob
  25. Bob Fraser
    Don't know about a chuck key, but a tutor I had at college, many years (46) ago, had a large dent in his forehead where a piece of skull had been removed. This was the result of a broken piece of lathe flying off and hitting him. Not his fault, but certainly a learning experience for his pupils! (Although strangely NOT an engineering course)

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...