Jump to content

Bob Fraser

Members
  • Posts

    275
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bob Fraser

  1. I was going to look my copy up and check before saying something similar. It's (the Frigates, Sloops and Brigs version) an amalgamation of two books. Still an interesting read though!
  2. I've had a reply from the author Ian McLaughlin and summarised below with permission. "... I spoke with the publisher of the existing volume. He intimated that it is now difficult, from a commercial point of view, to publish and sell books on the age of sail. There are other factors as well, one that I am now partially disabled and getting to the National Archives, the Caird Library and Chatham would be difficult not to mention the exhorbitant cost of staying in the London area whilst I read into the subject. .... no volume about the period 1763 - 1850 would make sense without a serious American input, since the contribution the the Americans made to the concept of the Sloop of War was massive. The French contribution came in the form of Brigs and Cutters but more significantly in their privateers, many of which were captured by the Royal Navy and classed as Sloops." So, sadly, from the author there will be no more follow up volumes as he is personally unable to the research, cover the cost of research, and get the publisher interested. He is, however, the chairman of the Society of Model Shipwrights, based in the UK.
  3. On the forward winch behind the hatch there are two 4 spoke "cogs" over which the chain was placed, matching the "cogs" on the winch under the foredeck. This lifted them over the hatch and made for an easier run into the chain pipes behind the winch.
  4. Not sure if there will be a follow up. The Author would now be approaching 83 and is a member here who last visited in 2021. I've PM'd him just in case he's still recioeving emails.
  5. Having just recieved this book I can agree it is a very useful book for anyone interested in the smaller unrated sloops and their development. Full of useful information, even to giving some tables of how well some of the classes sailed, and how their rigging differed to non-RN ships of the same type. If you have an interest in the sloop classes it is a worthwhile addition to your library. Mine is the later snow rigged sloops. At the moment it is offered ay 63% off its £40 rrp at Naval-Military-Press plus postage. (I have no connection)
  6. Thanks for the looks and likes! As usual other things really slowed this down, however some updates. I started to paint the coppered hull, but it looked awful. So i tried copper tape rivetted with a pounce wheel. At this scale the proper look was a bit too tiny for me, but I think this looks ok-ish. (The pic is much larger than the model!) For the rubbing strakes I used Evergreen strips of varying thickness, 0.5mm x 0.2 or 0.1 Not perfect, but a little better than the slab of wood with painted rope that the instructions say. Next job, try and fit a bulwark rail :-) and the rudder to fit. Cheers for now,
  7. Long delay- lots of filling, waiting 24hs, sanding, repeat. Break beakhead, fix, repeat. We're just about right I think. Added a new false keel, sternpiece and stempiece, shaped the beakhead and cut out the forecastle to make and fit an approximation of the anchor winch. Looks smooth until you get to the close up shot! Needs a final sand and smoothing with 1000grit before painting, plus the sides raising. Spare time not wasted - NO measurements given for any of the deck houses so I've measured them on the 1/96th and converted to 1/250th, or as close as I can cut 😅 ! I can post them if anyones interested. Going out of my comfort zone after the hull is finished with enhancement ideas. Got some Evergreen strips to see about simulating at least some of the door frames and mouldings. Portholes - instructions say glue little rings meaning eyelets. For the moment they'll be drilled out although I have an idea for proper looking ones using drilled out plastic sprue to give an outer ring. We'll see. I've also measured for the spreaders and main tops for scratch build. And to top it all I've had to redo my PC from scratch. Cheers for now,
  8. My plastic building days are long behind me, so I'm just about starting from scratch again nearly 40 years later, setting a little time aside each day when possible. Something I was very guilty of - rushing in the "need" to get things done fast and the model finished. One thing this forum has taught me is that it isn't a race 🐌 🐢 🐇, but a hobby. Definately the hull when put together and fit issues sorted, probably the deck, maybe the other bits if it won't cover the detailing. Not to mention the washing in soapy water first! Me too. One thing that wasn't around years ago, and one of the greatest sources to enable as much detail as wished for in any model. All the best
  9. Hi Darryl I knew I had this somewhere you jogged my memory with the mention of paints. Don't know if it's any use to you - It's a Revell specific "how to" by a builder who doesn't give a name, I just can't recall where I picked it up from, and gives the paints (NOT Revell!) and methods he uses, also variations from the Revell instructions. Cutty Sark.pdf Cheers,
  10. Darryl- sorry to see this, accidents happen and if you're not happy with it then it's your choice of what to do. My own = unlogged = build is abandoned for much the same reasons (damaged by cats knocking it off its shelf several times and losing pieces, bad paint) but at a lesser point than yours. Leave the log as it is, but amend the title with "Abandoned" on the end. Let it act as a positive reference - there's lots of useful info in there. I've enjoyed watching along and will look forward to following your new build when you feel ready. All the best,
  11. Not much done - a bit of sanding but then had the space taken over. Daughter had created a character, costume and storyline for it for a book, and wanted a costume for Liverpool ComiCon. A Mushroom hat needed to be made, 2'6" diameter with gills and inkdrops. This is how it all turned out. She wanted some selfies with other people, but it turned out more wanted a picture with her! Big brother took her, and they both ended up as one of the days star costumes Go to page 3
  12. Close ups like this are so enlarged every little imperfection is shown. I see that in my build and hopfully I'll do better with the next one. Someone standing 3 feet away is highly unlikely to spot those. When it comes down to it we are own worst critics! Something I've told myself to do too!
  13. This thread has a lot of suppliers - Wood Suppliers you should be able to find one in there 😃 Take a break, do something else, refresh yourself and your mind, look again with new eyes - I found it helped me - and some new skills. Have you seen this very detailed thread ? Sainsmart 3020 setup by thibaultron lots of setup info. Looking forward to the rest of the build when you come back. Take care,
  14. Darryl, have you seen @Kevin-the-lubbers photos? Using them and a ruler, given that the deadeye is 10", the tail that is siezed appears to measure out at 4 or 5 feet on the lower ratline shrouds and mast stays alongside them. That'll give you 15mm length for the 3 small siezes and the lanyard lock turns. Bruma has a closeup of them here Maybe Kevin or @shipman can jump in here as you've seen them in the flesh, to confirm or otherwise please?
  15. Hi Daryl According to Campbell and Longridge the fore and main lower shrouds are 5" circumference. This translates to 1.59155" diameter and gives 0.4211mm at 1/96th. The main and fore stays are also 5" circumference, but the mizzen lower shrouds and stay are 4" circumference, or 0.3369mm at 1/96th All the measurements for stays and shrouds are given inside the hull on his rigging plan. Looking good BTW, wish mine was even half as good! (It's staying put for a good while yet) Cheers
  16. Not much done - some comparisons to Longridges plans showing how far off this hull really is. Scanned and scaled to size - I know the creases affect the drawing slightly, but these pics are waay bigger than the model. Cut from the profile showing how the hull shape differs Midships section is just on correct but -> Shows how much extra needs to be added. Some shaping required! I'm also using the 1/96th Revell hull as a visual guideline. Let's see how I go from here - first job fix the keel, stem and stern pieces and sort the profiling after.
  17. Great minds and all that 😄 I've had this stashed away for just over 11 years. Way back then I made some notes on the instructions about using pins for the stanchions. I've some very this beading wire for the rails. Never thought about beads for deadeyes though - good idea that, cheers! (Even the largest 10" deadeyes come out at only 1mm diameter) I'll try mounting one into an eyebolt for the lower as an experiment. Got some more shaping on the hull to do yet, and as you suggest wood filler (got none - need to buy some!) to smooth the lines off. I've added the keel, stemson and stern deadwood with an initial shaping. Now that they're in place I can recheck their length and shape ( stem not quite as sharp as it should be and deadwood not as far back as it needs to be I think), and the hull is still too convex. More work tomorrow, as other duties call today. Cheers for now,
  18. That's my excuse too, and I'm sticking to it - it's the differences that make it yours alone, amd stand out from the rest. Good catch!
  19. Decided on this from my small stash of models as it looks like as fun build without too much detail. As you can see, it's an older version - This is NOT the Dusek version which is much better. Box contents - not a huge amount! Solid hull will need some shaping. Wheel all wrong, added 1 ships boat, eyes, pins and 2 more ladders to the contents. The slotted pieces usually used for gratings are meant to be the guard railings. A small start, but much to do to get a reasonable shape 😅 With a bit of luck I may be able to pull this off - Lets see!
×
×
  • Create New...