mikeaidanh

Hi Shipmates.
Now this is what MSW is all about.
Someone in need of help with ther model ship. And asks for advice.
Lots of good and valid suggestions come forward from members with expearance and thought.
A fix is found
And a happy modeller.
 
Well done MSW and to all it's members.
 
Regards Antony.

Yes "Karl" build is one of the best. I have all the pictures of that build up to date. I had started saving them since MSW1 so I have the ones from back then. But he does have a tread going that you can see from the beginning and he also has it going on another web site. Should check his tread out, it may be the one you seen before.

Many thanks for the kind words Wacko.
 
Mike.

Back again. After a longish break some further progress has been made. But first the colour scheme and roughing it up a bit!
 
It is my belief that these hard working boats would have been maintained in top working order but not as "tiddly" ( R.N term but probably universally understood. ) as the ships boats that ferried captains, admirals and other upper echelon types to and fro. To this end I have "dirtied" the interior of the model somewhat, excluded glossy finishes and adopted the muted ochres and black paints of the period. I do not intend to apply bright coloured hull highlights or stern embellishments. 
 
This image shows the boat interior after fitting all the ribs and stringers and the stern benches,
 

 
The mounts for the small cannon and other small additions.....
 

 
Next job was the gunnel capping. The instructions in the kit call for this to be applied in sections but I decided to trace of the actual shape from the model onto sheet timber. The outer curve was then cut on the band saw and the inner curve scribed from it before cutting and final sanding to shape on a belt sander. The two curved section, two quadrant sections and two straight sections were then glued to the hull.
 

 

 

 

 
The final piece of gunnel capping required a curve over a short length in 3.5mm timber. I snapped my first attempt so laminated three sections of 10mm x 1mm which worked well and when sanded and sealed will not be detectable under a coat or two of paint.
 

 
The next task was to build the framework that supports the main cannon and to fit this in place. Care must be taken here as this framework, thwart No.3 from the bows,and the mast step are all closely interdependent for position. The frame and the cannon itself are fun to put together.
 

 

 

 

 
Number three thwart and a section of mast are placed but not fixed.
 

 
Then the cannon framework is offered up, shaped where it meets the forward gunnel capping and then the No. three thwart can be adjusted in position.
 

 
Now the other thwarts can be cut and shaped and their positions established.
 

 
Central supports for the thwarts must be fitted before they can be secured and the mast step needs to be completed.
 
Thats it for now. More soon......I hope!
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Amazon UK now have the links to the £6.99 copies.
 
Tony

Hi everyone,
 
I chanced to find remaindered copies of the book 'Sovereign of the Seas' by James Sephton for only £6.99 in
'The Works'  (UK chain discount bookshop)
 
I bought a copy in Plymouth today and the shop assistant  'thinks' copies would also be in other branches.
 
I flag this up as this is a superb, very well researched book and would prove invaluable for modellers thinking about or
building this vessel, or indeed as a very good reference book.
 
Amazon have this book listed at over £16.00, and one of the reviews is well worth reading.
 
Hope this will prove useful information, regards, Nick 
 
 
 

After careful analysis of the data presented, it would appear that an alternative conclusion may also prove viable.  Specifically, the glue joints in each case are stronger than the wood itself.  It is suggested that further experimentation be conducted to determine the strength of the joints in the tension, rather than in the shear,  mode.  This might best be accomplished with the use of either an 'Instron' device or the application of opposing forces using two identical teams of draught horses
 
Pending the publication of the results of the modified experimental design, I shall continue to get the 'brown stuff' off prior to gluing   

Don't forget to calibrate the hammer .  

Hrs 662-670
Finished the masts! Of course I made a mistake and had to take down some stuff and redo it, but a least I am done. I think I will place the masts and do the quarterdeck...I am in need of something different. Plus the yard and rigging look hard to do...
 




 
Been thinking of placing the masts and I think I need to add a screw or something solidly in the base as the bottom ends are a little short. Then epoxy in place and allow to solidify for 24 hours.
 

Andy,
 
Model Railway! I am out of my comfort zone! Sorry for commenting on something I know nothing about.
 
Raspberry Pi could be used though but maybe a bit over the top in view of your "off the shelf" solution.
 
Mike.

Bill,
 
Look at this;   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/305-led-lighting-below-decks/
 
Mike.

The prophesies of science fiction. Anyone who has watched Star Trek will be familiar with the communicator, the data pad and the replicator. The transporter seems a long way off as yet but you never know!

Mike.

Thank you cees,
 
My mind is made up .....nearly! I will probably end up with three more Proxon tools to go with my scroll saw.....or maybe four more. Happily retired as I am and with no major financial worries I still feel guilty about spending money on such things. Does anyone know a cure for this condition?
 
Mike.

I have severall proxxon electrical machine and I love them all
They have also a great service
greetings cees

Good job Richard,
 
That is a very nice HMS Pickle. It has been a pleasure reading your build log.
 
Mike.

Revenge----- Rattle cans are OK for painting, but if you enter the world of airbrushing, you will never look back. The colors available are light years ahead of stock spray cans, and the refinement of the final texture of the surface is far superior. This may cause the heavens to storm around here, but I would invest in a Paasche Model H set, the simplest of all, and the workhorse for many AB artists who go back to it in spite of their super-techno stable. There is a steep-but-short learning curve which requires practice on old card board box sides, etc., but you'll quickly master the basics. Also, a simple Harbor Freight-type small compressor is a must-- never mind the overrated "Airbrush Compressors". I know the initial expense and learning period seem daunting, but you'll feel a gigantic rush of progress in your modeling.
john

:champagne-popping-smiley-emotic :champagne-popping-smiley-emotic
 
WoW Rich - that looks FANTASTIC!!!
 
Love that feeling of finishing a kit (loved it with the old plastic stuff and loved it even more my first build) so HIGH FIVE!
 

 
 
:champagne-popping-smiley-emotic :champagne-popping-smiley-emotic

I‘m ready!!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Well, not everything looks perfect, but I‘m very happy with the result. Next weekend I‘ll try to make some better photos for the gallery. I‘m satisfied with the kit and for this price the quallity of the kit supplied materials is good. It was always a great pleasure building this little schooner.
 
Again thank you all for your kind words, all your ‚Like it‘ or even looking.

Getting on with the internal decks.
 

 

 

 
This is enjoyable work. Filling the floor voids with planking and the gratings. I found cutting and fitting the gratings to be tricky.
 

 
Using useful sizes of the kit supplied timber to jig up the fitting of the foot treads.
 

 

 
The internal decks finished and lightly oiled with Danish.
 
Moving on.
 

 

 
Planking in the bow and stern areas.
 
This is as far as I have come to date. The next tasks will be to finally fit the internal decks into the hull before starting on the ribs and stringers.
 
More anon.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

......And more progress.
 

 
Both internal decks framed and shown in situ for a trial fit.
 

 
Partly planked deck void. Slapped some yellow ochre on before applying a decent top coat.
 

 
Bought myself a cheap and simple air brush. How quickly the paint goes on! This sounds like I do not have a painters patience. Correct!
 
 
 
 

Further progress.
 

 
Starting on the internal decking.Bending frames for the edges of this section. I am using the deck itself as the former for the frame bending.
 

 

 
The larger of the two internal decks framed up and ready for planking and some gratings.
 

 
Detour. Planked the stern but not to the top as some shaping needs to be applied to this later on.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Progress report.
 

 
First planking completed - pretty rough but I have two more layers to go to improve my technique.
 

 
Second planking complete. A little better but still full of errors some of which have been sanded out. Thank goodness for sanding products!
 

 
The hull structure is now strong enough to let me remove the 2/3 of some of the bulkheads which are no longer needed. I am pleased to get shot of them as this allows me to do some remedial work on the visible interior planking.
 

 

 

 

 
Third and final planking. Fitting a drop plank to put right one of my technical errors.
 

 
Third planking complete and in the sanding phase.Overall I am reasonably happy with this my second attempt to plank a model
ship but, one of these days, I must learn to do it properly. I would love to watch a "master" at work.....are there any videos ?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

......And more progress.
 

 
Both internal decks framed and shown in situ for a trial fit.
 

 
Partly planked deck void. Slapped some yellow ochre on before applying a decent top coat.
 

 
Bought myself a cheap and simple air brush. How quickly the paint goes on! This sounds like I do not have a painters patience. Correct!
 
 
 
 

Further progress.
 

 
Starting on the internal decking.Bending frames for the edges of this section. I am using the deck itself as the former for the frame bending.
 

 

 
The larger of the two internal decks framed up and ready for planking and some gratings.
 

 
Detour. Planked the stern but not to the top as some shaping needs to be applied to this later on.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Great tool! Good for transferring dimensions from scale plan to model. Take care of the nice sharp points as they are great for "pricking off" measurements direct to your timber.
 
Mike.