Torbogdan

All the cockpit instruments are now installed. I took the precaution of laying in the cables before putting the seat in and am glad of it. I don't think I could have threaded them through some of the tiny holes afterwards.
 
Next step is to install all the cross brace tensioning cables and there are quite a few!!
 
 

I've built the model Airways Fokker. Haven't built this one so I cannot compare the two. But, the instructions for the Model Airways was very good. In the beginning I did not like the instructions but as the build progressed I really learned to read the instructions and follow them exactly and things would go fine. It was not an easy build but by being careful, dry fitting parts, following instructions and having great patience it finally became finished.
 
Like most models it is not the "difficulties" that will beat you, it is doing the same thing over and over and over again that will (I think) make people quit. So be like a mule and never, ever quit and you will do fine.

I've built the model Airways Fokker. Haven't built this one so I cannot compare the two. But, the instructions for the Model Airways was very good. In the beginning I did not like the instructions but as the build progressed I really learned to read the instructions and follow them exactly and things would go fine. It was not an easy build but by being careful, dry fitting parts, following instructions and having great patience it finally became finished.
 
Like most models it is not the "difficulties" that will beat you, it is doing the same thing over and over and over again that will (I think) make people quit. So be like a mule and never, ever quit and you will do fine.

I've built the model Airways Fokker. Haven't built this one so I cannot compare the two. But, the instructions for the Model Airways was very good. In the beginning I did not like the instructions but as the build progressed I really learned to read the instructions and follow them exactly and things would go fine. It was not an easy build but by being careful, dry fitting parts, following instructions and having great patience it finally became finished.
 
Like most models it is not the "difficulties" that will beat you, it is doing the same thing over and over and over again that will (I think) make people quit. So be like a mule and never, ever quit and you will do fine.

I've built the model Airways Fokker. Haven't built this one so I cannot compare the two. But, the instructions for the Model Airways was very good. In the beginning I did not like the instructions but as the build progressed I really learned to read the instructions and follow them exactly and things would go fine. It was not an easy build but by being careful, dry fitting parts, following instructions and having great patience it finally became finished.
 
Like most models it is not the "difficulties" that will beat you, it is doing the same thing over and over and over again that will (I think) make people quit. So be like a mule and never, ever quit and you will do fine.

I've built the model Airways Fokker. Haven't built this one so I cannot compare the two. But, the instructions for the Model Airways was very good. In the beginning I did not like the instructions but as the build progressed I really learned to read the instructions and follow them exactly and things would go fine. It was not an easy build but by being careful, dry fitting parts, following instructions and having great patience it finally became finished.
 
Like most models it is not the "difficulties" that will beat you, it is doing the same thing over and over and over again that will (I think) make people quit. So be like a mule and never, ever quit and you will do fine.

I've built the model Airways Fokker. Haven't built this one so I cannot compare the two. But, the instructions for the Model Airways was very good. In the beginning I did not like the instructions but as the build progressed I really learned to read the instructions and follow them exactly and things would go fine. It was not an easy build but by being careful, dry fitting parts, following instructions and having great patience it finally became finished.
 
Like most models it is not the "difficulties" that will beat you, it is doing the same thing over and over and over again that will (I think) make people quit. So be like a mule and never, ever quit and you will do fine.

Well, drum roll... It is done!
 
I´m pleased with it. It was a fun kit to build. Some processes were difficult, I would not recommend this kit unless you have some experience in model building and working with different materials. I remember that I did not find the instructions clear in the beginning. I take that statement back. the instructions were very good. Read the carefully and follow the exactly and things will go fine. 
 
A very tricky part was adding the rudder wires through the rollers. Take care when you build the rollers and maybe install the wires before adding the roller wheels. This is the only deviation from the instructions which I would recommend. So instead of finishing the wings with the roller wheels and everything and adding the wiring in the end, install the wiring and then add the wheels. This way you have more space to work with when you install the wiring. So installing the rollers would be the last part you do before the model is finished.
 
The map as I used as a base is from the Imperial war museum. It is a bit "offset" to the frame as I use an old diorama rule that states "nothing parallell to the edge". Technically this is not a diorama but anyway.
 
The medal I put there to make it look a bit more interesting. Also the Red Baron got it, so I thought it would be nice to include it.
 
I will try go get a friend, who is a much better photographer than me take a few pictures of better quality than the ones below.
 
"What ever" you say, we want pictures!  Well here are a few!
 

Well, drum roll... It is done!
 
I´m pleased with it. It was a fun kit to build. Some processes were difficult, I would not recommend this kit unless you have some experience in model building and working with different materials. I remember that I did not find the instructions clear in the beginning. I take that statement back. the instructions were very good. Read the carefully and follow the exactly and things will go fine. 
 
A very tricky part was adding the rudder wires through the rollers. Take care when you build the rollers and maybe install the wires before adding the roller wheels. This is the only deviation from the instructions which I would recommend. So instead of finishing the wings with the roller wheels and everything and adding the wiring in the end, install the wiring and then add the wheels. This way you have more space to work with when you install the wiring. So installing the rollers would be the last part you do before the model is finished.
 
The map as I used as a base is from the Imperial war museum. It is a bit "offset" to the frame as I use an old diorama rule that states "nothing parallell to the edge". Technically this is not a diorama but anyway.
 
The medal I put there to make it look a bit more interesting. Also the Red Baron got it, so I thought it would be nice to include it.
 
I will try go get a friend, who is a much better photographer than me take a few pictures of better quality than the ones below.
 
"What ever" you say, we want pictures!  Well here are a few!
 

Thanks! The reason (according to Shepard Paine, legendary diorama builder) is that if objects are parallel to the edge it plays a "mind trick" and it looks like the scene is constrained by the frame. It is difficult to "imagine" that the diorama is a snapshot/cut out of reality and goes on outside the diorama. With things parallel it looks like the scene is made to fit inside the frame (I hope I'm not too unclear)
 
I find it very good advice. Just moving objects a few degrees of 90 degrees makes a huge difference. Of course it doesn't matter if a few small things are parallel but major focus points like vehicles, roads, houses, railroad tracks, fences and such should not be parallel.

Well, drum roll... It is done!
 
I´m pleased with it. It was a fun kit to build. Some processes were difficult, I would not recommend this kit unless you have some experience in model building and working with different materials. I remember that I did not find the instructions clear in the beginning. I take that statement back. the instructions were very good. Read the carefully and follow the exactly and things will go fine. 
 
A very tricky part was adding the rudder wires through the rollers. Take care when you build the rollers and maybe install the wires before adding the roller wheels. This is the only deviation from the instructions which I would recommend. So instead of finishing the wings with the roller wheels and everything and adding the wiring in the end, install the wiring and then add the wheels. This way you have more space to work with when you install the wiring. So installing the rollers would be the last part you do before the model is finished.
 
The map as I used as a base is from the Imperial war museum. It is a bit "offset" to the frame as I use an old diorama rule that states "nothing parallell to the edge". Technically this is not a diorama but anyway.
 
The medal I put there to make it look a bit more interesting. Also the Red Baron got it, so I thought it would be nice to include it.
 
I will try go get a friend, who is a much better photographer than me take a few pictures of better quality than the ones below.
 
"What ever" you say, we want pictures!  Well here are a few!
 

Thanks! The reason (according to Shepard Paine, legendary diorama builder) is that if objects are parallel to the edge it plays a "mind trick" and it looks like the scene is constrained by the frame. It is difficult to "imagine" that the diorama is a snapshot/cut out of reality and goes on outside the diorama. With things parallel it looks like the scene is made to fit inside the frame (I hope I'm not too unclear)
 
I find it very good advice. Just moving objects a few degrees of 90 degrees makes a huge difference. Of course it doesn't matter if a few small things are parallel but major focus points like vehicles, roads, houses, railroad tracks, fences and such should not be parallel.

Thanks! The reason (according to Shepard Paine, legendary diorama builder) is that if objects are parallel to the edge it plays a "mind trick" and it looks like the scene is constrained by the frame. It is difficult to "imagine" that the diorama is a snapshot/cut out of reality and goes on outside the diorama. With things parallel it looks like the scene is made to fit inside the frame (I hope I'm not too unclear)
 
I find it very good advice. Just moving objects a few degrees of 90 degrees makes a huge difference. Of course it doesn't matter if a few small things are parallel but major focus points like vehicles, roads, houses, railroad tracks, fences and such should not be parallel.

Thanks! The reason (according to Shepard Paine, legendary diorama builder) is that if objects are parallel to the edge it plays a "mind trick" and it looks like the scene is constrained by the frame. It is difficult to "imagine" that the diorama is a snapshot/cut out of reality and goes on outside the diorama. With things parallel it looks like the scene is made to fit inside the frame (I hope I'm not too unclear)
 
I find it very good advice. Just moving objects a few degrees of 90 degrees makes a huge difference. Of course it doesn't matter if a few small things are parallel but major focus points like vehicles, roads, houses, railroad tracks, fences and such should not be parallel.

Well, drum roll... It is done!
 
I´m pleased with it. It was a fun kit to build. Some processes were difficult, I would not recommend this kit unless you have some experience in model building and working with different materials. I remember that I did not find the instructions clear in the beginning. I take that statement back. the instructions were very good. Read the carefully and follow the exactly and things will go fine. 
 
A very tricky part was adding the rudder wires through the rollers. Take care when you build the rollers and maybe install the wires before adding the roller wheels. This is the only deviation from the instructions which I would recommend. So instead of finishing the wings with the roller wheels and everything and adding the wiring in the end, install the wiring and then add the wheels. This way you have more space to work with when you install the wiring. So installing the rollers would be the last part you do before the model is finished.
 
The map as I used as a base is from the Imperial war museum. It is a bit "offset" to the frame as I use an old diorama rule that states "nothing parallell to the edge". Technically this is not a diorama but anyway.
 
The medal I put there to make it look a bit more interesting. Also the Red Baron got it, so I thought it would be nice to include it.
 
I will try go get a friend, who is a much better photographer than me take a few pictures of better quality than the ones below.
 
"What ever" you say, we want pictures!  Well here are a few!
 

Thanks! The reason (according to Shepard Paine, legendary diorama builder) is that if objects are parallel to the edge it plays a "mind trick" and it looks like the scene is constrained by the frame. It is difficult to "imagine" that the diorama is a snapshot/cut out of reality and goes on outside the diorama. With things parallel it looks like the scene is made to fit inside the frame (I hope I'm not too unclear)
 
I find it very good advice. Just moving objects a few degrees of 90 degrees makes a huge difference. Of course it doesn't matter if a few small things are parallel but major focus points like vehicles, roads, houses, railroad tracks, fences and such should not be parallel.

Well, drum roll... It is done!
 
I´m pleased with it. It was a fun kit to build. Some processes were difficult, I would not recommend this kit unless you have some experience in model building and working with different materials. I remember that I did not find the instructions clear in the beginning. I take that statement back. the instructions were very good. Read the carefully and follow the exactly and things will go fine. 
 
A very tricky part was adding the rudder wires through the rollers. Take care when you build the rollers and maybe install the wires before adding the roller wheels. This is the only deviation from the instructions which I would recommend. So instead of finishing the wings with the roller wheels and everything and adding the wiring in the end, install the wiring and then add the wheels. This way you have more space to work with when you install the wiring. So installing the rollers would be the last part you do before the model is finished.
 
The map as I used as a base is from the Imperial war museum. It is a bit "offset" to the frame as I use an old diorama rule that states "nothing parallell to the edge". Technically this is not a diorama but anyway.
 
The medal I put there to make it look a bit more interesting. Also the Red Baron got it, so I thought it would be nice to include it.
 
I will try go get a friend, who is a much better photographer than me take a few pictures of better quality than the ones below.
 
"What ever" you say, we want pictures!  Well here are a few!
 

Thanks! The reason (according to Shepard Paine, legendary diorama builder) is that if objects are parallel to the edge it plays a "mind trick" and it looks like the scene is constrained by the frame. It is difficult to "imagine" that the diorama is a snapshot/cut out of reality and goes on outside the diorama. With things parallel it looks like the scene is made to fit inside the frame (I hope I'm not too unclear)
 
I find it very good advice. Just moving objects a few degrees of 90 degrees makes a huge difference. Of course it doesn't matter if a few small things are parallel but major focus points like vehicles, roads, houses, railroad tracks, fences and such should not be parallel.

Well, drum roll... It is done!
 
I´m pleased with it. It was a fun kit to build. Some processes were difficult, I would not recommend this kit unless you have some experience in model building and working with different materials. I remember that I did not find the instructions clear in the beginning. I take that statement back. the instructions were very good. Read the carefully and follow the exactly and things will go fine. 
 
A very tricky part was adding the rudder wires through the rollers. Take care when you build the rollers and maybe install the wires before adding the roller wheels. This is the only deviation from the instructions which I would recommend. So instead of finishing the wings with the roller wheels and everything and adding the wiring in the end, install the wiring and then add the wheels. This way you have more space to work with when you install the wiring. So installing the rollers would be the last part you do before the model is finished.
 
The map as I used as a base is from the Imperial war museum. It is a bit "offset" to the frame as I use an old diorama rule that states "nothing parallell to the edge". Technically this is not a diorama but anyway.
 
The medal I put there to make it look a bit more interesting. Also the Red Baron got it, so I thought it would be nice to include it.
 
I will try go get a friend, who is a much better photographer than me take a few pictures of better quality than the ones below.
 
"What ever" you say, we want pictures!  Well here are a few!
 

Well, drum roll... It is done!
 
I´m pleased with it. It was a fun kit to build. Some processes were difficult, I would not recommend this kit unless you have some experience in model building and working with different materials. I remember that I did not find the instructions clear in the beginning. I take that statement back. the instructions were very good. Read the carefully and follow the exactly and things will go fine. 
 
A very tricky part was adding the rudder wires through the rollers. Take care when you build the rollers and maybe install the wires before adding the roller wheels. This is the only deviation from the instructions which I would recommend. So instead of finishing the wings with the roller wheels and everything and adding the wiring in the end, install the wiring and then add the wheels. This way you have more space to work with when you install the wiring. So installing the rollers would be the last part you do before the model is finished.
 
The map as I used as a base is from the Imperial war museum. It is a bit "offset" to the frame as I use an old diorama rule that states "nothing parallell to the edge". Technically this is not a diorama but anyway.
 
The medal I put there to make it look a bit more interesting. Also the Red Baron got it, so I thought it would be nice to include it.
 
I will try go get a friend, who is a much better photographer than me take a few pictures of better quality than the ones below.
 
"What ever" you say, we want pictures!  Well here are a few!
 

Thanks! The reason (according to Shepard Paine, legendary diorama builder) is that if objects are parallel to the edge it plays a "mind trick" and it looks like the scene is constrained by the frame. It is difficult to "imagine" that the diorama is a snapshot/cut out of reality and goes on outside the diorama. With things parallel it looks like the scene is made to fit inside the frame (I hope I'm not too unclear)
 
I find it very good advice. Just moving objects a few degrees of 90 degrees makes a huge difference. Of course it doesn't matter if a few small things are parallel but major focus points like vehicles, roads, houses, railroad tracks, fences and such should not be parallel.

Well, drum roll... It is done!
 
I´m pleased with it. It was a fun kit to build. Some processes were difficult, I would not recommend this kit unless you have some experience in model building and working with different materials. I remember that I did not find the instructions clear in the beginning. I take that statement back. the instructions were very good. Read the carefully and follow the exactly and things will go fine. 
 
A very tricky part was adding the rudder wires through the rollers. Take care when you build the rollers and maybe install the wires before adding the roller wheels. This is the only deviation from the instructions which I would recommend. So instead of finishing the wings with the roller wheels and everything and adding the wiring in the end, install the wiring and then add the wheels. This way you have more space to work with when you install the wiring. So installing the rollers would be the last part you do before the model is finished.
 
The map as I used as a base is from the Imperial war museum. It is a bit "offset" to the frame as I use an old diorama rule that states "nothing parallell to the edge". Technically this is not a diorama but anyway.
 
The medal I put there to make it look a bit more interesting. Also the Red Baron got it, so I thought it would be nice to include it.
 
I will try go get a friend, who is a much better photographer than me take a few pictures of better quality than the ones below.
 
"What ever" you say, we want pictures!  Well here are a few!
 

It is close now! The map has been glued to the picture frame. The propeller isn't finished, it needs more sanding and then varnishing. I also need to strengthen the pro-shaft to avoid it "drooping". I might leave the engine cowl off to show off the engine. I have also ordered a replica Pour le Merite model to add to the base.
 
There is also the last metal cowling to add to the right of the MG:s. 
 
Hopefully it will be 100% finished next week. I started building 3rd of december last year so it has taken slightly more than a year to build. But it has been a very leisurely pace. I could have built it much faster but it is hobby 

After such a long break it seemed there was a bit more to do than I had previously thought. I hade made the wing tip skids but had left them off as they are a bit fragile. So I added those. Also the tail skid had broken off so I had to reattach it. The wing struts between the top and middle wing are finally attached. The bracing wire between the top wing and the fuselage in front of the MG:s were added. The engine cowling has been spray painted red. An old aluminum beer can has been used to add small parts of "cowling" around the front end of the aircraft. In the last picture a paper part can be seen to the right of the MG:s. After dry fitting I will cut a part like it from the beer can and do the final tweaking before gluing it in place.
 
Earlier this winter I was in London and visited the Imperial War museum and bought a map there to use as back drop. It is called "Trench map, German artillery positions at Ervillers". I will iron it to make it flat and glue it to a board and use it as a base for the finished model. You can kind of see the end result in two of the pictures.I´m thinking about leaving the cowling off to show off the engine. Haven't decided quite yet. I'm also thinking about buying a Pour le Merit replica medal and adding it to the board. I want to make a nice presentation but don't want to overdo it.
 
As it was bit more than I had remembered to do I don't think it will be done by tomorrow as I also have to work tomorrow. Was supposed to have the day off but then the boss called and...
 
 

Today I finally continued to build my Fokker! It has been a long break due to work, lack of inspiration and too many other things which had a higher priority and a general lack of willpower to build. But now it s about to be finished. I attached the wires today to the ailerons. I hope to finish it completely this thurs- and Friday. Then I will also get some pictures up.