Trussben
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I’ve started playing around with the Aft platform, layout came from TFFM, Knee joints will be simulated on this version. ben
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Hi Graham, I’m enjoying your build, good luck with the Hawse timbers - they slowed me down on my Pegasus build. ben
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Here is how I do the spiling of the internal planking using card stock and a compass.
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Work continues on the internal framing and mast steps. Im using a flexible Holly battern for marking out the height of the lower deck beam clamp in the picture. Im not going to follow the exact planking expansion for all the internal stuff that will disappear when the lower deck framing is installed - captains choice for a simpler and cleaner look to show more framing. ben
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She is very pretty Rusty. Up to your usual excellent standards. ben
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Chris For Caulking, make sure you do some tests before committing to the model, some things will bleed ( sharpie, India ink ) especially on end grain, or when you put your final finish on. I tried black paper in keel scarphs originally but it makes the joints weaker. I’ve used pencil with great results as I don’t like my caulking to look too obvious and you can increase decrease the affect by putting pencil only on one edge or both. One thing I haven’t tried is the aforementioned colored glue. Looking good. ben
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Chris - scroll saw speed is a function of blade type/size and of course material hardness/thickness. I find on my DW788 that using a #3-5 blade on pear below 1/4” thick I’m running between 3-4 speed setting for best results . What do you see? ben
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Cant frames sure are fun to make, I think only beaten by the hawse/bollard timber’s. ben
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Hi, The pictures show installation of the limber strakes next to the Keelson has begun. These strakes have a rebate set into them that was cut using the Byrnes saw, they are 12 inches wide and 4.5 thick and are made out of boxwood. The Kelson has also had its copper bolts installed as per TFFM and they are awaiting blackening with LOS. ben
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John, i used a few different ways to avoid the bleeding of the dye into unwanted areas. First I use a sharp blade to score the surface of the limit of where the dye can get to which creates stop line. Also I use some good quality masking tape ( tamiya ) at the edge and then again some normal blue painters tape in the surrounding areas. ben
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Hi, and thanks for all the likes and comments. John, the Wales are in Top and Butt style and made out of Swiss pear just like the hull framing and then dyed black using Fiebigs black leather dye with several coats. Between coats I used a scraper to smooth them and a fine sandpaper to create a fine black dust which gets forced into any tiny gaps between the planking - this was finally buffed with a soft cloth, then 4 coats of Watcos oil was applied and then also buffed to give a deep luster. This makes the planking seams almost disappear until you get up real close. The problem using dye is that it can bleed into other areas ( framing ) and you have to be careful with its application. I didn’t use ebony as it’s very hard and brittle and doesn’t bend well at all, I have a load of ebony on my wood rack but will just use it for small or straight pieces for highlights or small pieces. Hope that helps ben
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Work on the main Wales is underway, I’ve decided to put one strake of Holly below the Wales, and Boxwood planking above. I’m hoping it ‘pops’ the way I want. ben
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Hi Mark, I made myself such a tool a few years ago, from my dremel box misc box I found a round felt polishing disc to which I glued some 180 grit paper. Works good for fast removal but I have caught myself a few times taking to much off. ben
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Hi Chris, Glad you have finally fixed your mind on the next build. The Renommee is a beautiful ship in my opinion, but a difficult one to model - I’m sure she will give you lots of challenges and excitement. Ebony has its own charms, it also has its own issues, your choice if you want to battle with it. I will look forward to watching your build as you progress, love what you are doing and don’t try to rush man - that’s the mantra I’m trying to follow ( hell - I’ve built two models so far of the same ship and I’m still trying to get to the halfway point LOL ) ben
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Agamemnon and Vanguard twin ships?
Trussben replied to semorebutts's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Sister ship of the HMS Agamemnon 64 was the 64 HMS Indefatigable, both built at Bucklers Hard. ben -
Hmm, I see what you mean Druxey, the water coming out of the scupper could cause rot at the butt joint below it, maybe move it back one frame would be enough you think? That would then make it about 18 inches aft of the scupper.
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In preparation for marking out and installing the main wales, I made my own external planking layout in CAD using information from TFFM, Pegasus side draft and the planking expansion of Hornet 1776 from NMM that I managed to get a copy of ( ZAZ5119 ). A word of caution to others using the Hornet plan - it is badly out of scale and distorted - but it's fine for general layout concept. ben
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Thanks for the likes and comments. Greg, I will proberbly be following the rest of you and cut them off as I'm going to plank both sides from the wales up. ben
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So here is the counter timbers, fillers and QB light port completed and rough faired inside and out. I also added some thick batterns internally to help support this framing. ben
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Here is what the framing in this area should look like according to the DOF plan of the Cygnet ( only swan DOF available from NMM ). I have machined some 8 inch stock down and have installed frame backers along the toptimber line to support the new framing on both sides. ben
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As long as " your having fun " Rusty, I will continue to watch with interest. Your rigging skills are much better than mine. ben
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Interesting Gaetan, In your double bigger scale than I, that you have same affect and same results as I saw, it appears to be universal problem. At my home in Upstate NY, we currently have 65% outside humidity and my workshop is around 50%. i have now left an entire floor spacer out every 8 frames and all the others are only glued on one fore/aft side to reduce tensions- I have not seen any movement at all in keel twist, keel hogging, or anything to be honest - but I'm not at the lowest humidity of the season yet, but I now have winter control to keep humidity up around 40-45%. Im going to install some deck clamps and the main wales to add some strength next to try and ensure it stays that way as per Druxeys and DVMs advice. bon chance ben
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