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Trussben

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Everything posted by Trussben

  1. Hi, So work on Pegasus we be starting again now I have humidity back to normal control, and summer projects put back to bed. Old counter framing was broken on last house move so it has to be remade. First order of business was to make a jig to attach to my gantry for the correct alignment and position of new side counter timbers, made out of some poplar and sized so top corners are the correct height from the keel to toptimber level, and width to correspond for correct gap 12'3" ( 3 1/16" full size ). New side counter timbers were shaped out of 15" thick stock as per TFFM, glued into correct position on wing transom, and pinned through with 20ga copper wire / 5 min epoxy for strength. Distance between side counter timbers at the upper counter knuckle was checked as well, pretty confident these are in the correct place. Now to start on the filling timbers and QB light port. ben
  2. Great to see you restart the Winchelsea Chuck, it's one of the frigates I intend to build one day, Pellew commanded her before the Indy, and I want to build all his ships before I go. ben
  3. I think your doing very well Bob, nice stern framing. Two steps forward and one back is the scratch build mantra. ben
  4. Thanks for the comments and likes. Chris - you are going to need a workshop this big to build that monster of a 74 you are going to tackle after the Confederacy. ben
  5. So the final section of eight frames has been made and installed between F and J stations. I need to pull the hull off the build board to do the rough fairing around this new section. Only 5 months ago since I started rebuilding the hull and it is now closed up, I had managed to save 37 frames from the original build, and I had to remake 43 frames new. All of the new framing has a set of floor fillers missing every eight frames, and every filler is only glued to the aft or fore frame depending, so as to allow for wood movement - I don't want to get into the same issues as last time. The workshop is undergoing a full cleaning and switch around for other work while summer is here and I have no control over the humidity. Modeling will begin again in the fall. see you later in the year ben
  6. Thanks for all the likes and comments. Druxey - the counter timbers were from the original framing, they got knocked off during the house move 18 months ago. I will be making brand new ones but I had those old ones out to look at the shape. ben
  7. So another section has been installed and rough faired. Eight more frames from F aft to J fore left to build and install. ben
  8. Hey Greg, I have switched to doing the port sill mortices after the frames have been raised to see if I can do them any better than before. Seems to be a bit faster but no more accurate than I got before. ben
  9. Hi, it's been a long time since an update due to a very heavy load working away so little modeling time to be had. Another set of eight frames and a spacer frame have been installed up to B Aft, if you look closely you will see the rough cut out in the A-Frames for the fixed double block, and below the hull you can see the block bodies that have been made out of boxwood to match the hull planking when it's done. The frames are just roughly faired and sanded to 100 grit just like the rest of the hull until hull is closed in. So 16 frames are left to go to fill the gap, hopefully it won't be as long until the next update. ben
  10. Mike - I have not used any finish YET, I will be using either sanding sealer for a rough hewn effect, or my normal WOP which I have used on other models. Another part of me wants to try using a oil based finish. Anyway, until the hull is complete, all sanding and fairing complete there will be no finish applied. Ben
  11. Pat - absolutely they will, all the Swiss pear being used is out of the same master billet of wood I got from Jeff at Hobbymill when he was operating, no finish has touched anything so it is the natural darkening of the wood that is occurring. Ben
  12. Yeh Gary, I have made some silly mistakes when cutting out frames, only piece of absolute advice I can definitely give is check the scale every time you print a set out plans for the framing - ask me how I know!! Ben
  13. Another set of eight frames has been completed up to 2-fore, you can see how light the new pear framing is in color compared to the recovered old framing, the floor fillers for this section of framing has only been glued to the fore side of each frame so as to be able to "float" as per druxeys advice. I am currently sanding and fairing it to match the after side framing. Ben
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