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Trussben

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Everything posted by Trussben

  1. Trussben
    Sam, Couple of things that I have noticed in the past using oil finishes. 1. If you have any glue residue on the wood, when you apply the oil it sits on top of the glue and doesn't soak in leaving a blemish, so make sure to wash off excess glue before it dries, or you will have to sand/scrape it off afterwards. 2. Like you said, first coat gets diluted so it penetrates, leave for 20 mins then wipe off the excess oil. Second coat goes on full strength - leave for 20 mins and then rub off with lint free rag to get a nice deep luster. If you don't rub it off well you will get a more shiny and reflective surface finish that I don't care for. Ben
  2. Trussben
    Sam - The yellow glue I am using is Titebond3 ben
  3. Trussben
    Mike, I was using a very flexible battern made out of holly to check the lay between frames while I progressively sanded to what I thought was a good result ( same as what I did on my Pegasus POF ) which turned out to be just enough to remove the laser char completely from the frames. ben
  4. Trussben
    Here are some pictures of the framing that has now been faired using medium grit paper and emery boards. A lot of care needs to be taken to not break any of the frames and the tiny tabs that hold them together, and even then I had a few whoops moments. Ben
  5. Trussben
    Chuck - yep she’s a fun build but only just getting going you know. Sam - most of the slots needed some small adjustment to get just perfect. I have not used any sealer so far as I haven’t decided between WOP or an oil finish like Tung/Watcos. ben
  6. Trussben
    Here is the keel glued onto the frames in preparation for fairing. Note how on the forward frames, the floors face forward and on the aft they face aft as per the plans. The build boards were taped together with gorilla tape. ben
  7. Trussben
    I guess second time around is a charm, looks great Rusty. New rope looks really good.
  8. Trussben
    Warning understood Chuck, The frames were just sat in the board for the picture. ben
  9. Trussben
    So here are all the frames assembled and adjusted to fit in the build board. No issues seen at all, you just have to be careful to only glue one floor and futtock at a time to make sure they don’t get mixed up. Getting the loose but not too loose fit of the tabs into the build board just takes a little time and care to get just right. Next up will be glueing the keel assembly onto this framing. ben
  10. Trussben
    Nice Friezes Toni.
  11. Trussben
    Hi, Ive decided to start a build log of the Syren Ship model, Queen Anne Barge at 1:24 scale that I managed to purchase from Chuck. The kit was purchased as a nice diversion away from my build of the Pegasus which has been slogging away for several years now and I wanted something that I could finish reasonably quickly. As of all things designed and produced by Chuck, I was not surprised on opening the box to be greeted by top quality components and plans, instructions were downloaded from his site. I shall not post pics of all the items as another builder ( Sam ) has already done that. I have started by completing the keel, all parts fitted together perfectly with no issues being seen so far, I will start putting together the frames and see how this unique approach that Chuck has devised for floor and futtock framing works. Ben
  12. Trussben
    Are there any build logs of the Barge on the site, I don’t see one.
  13. Trussben
    Think I got the last one!
  14. Trussben
    Fore part of the lower deck framing underway. ben
  15. Trussben
    Thanks for all the likes and comments. Meddo - the hinges are hammered copper which was then blackened using LOS ( liver of sulphur ). Ben
  16. Trussben
    Rusty, I congratulate you on taking the big step of redoing the majority of the rigging all over again, it’s heartbreaking when our ships take damage, but your skill will make her whole again and better than ever. ben
  17. Trussben
    She looks excellent in her case, congratulations. ben
  18. Trussben
    Here is my representation of the well and shot lockers, came out ok methinks so I may install it in the model. ben
  19. Trussben
    Chris, I use a Worksharp 3000 model electric sharpener designed for chisels and plane blades. Costs about $175. Comes with two glass plates and four grades of abrasive to stick to both sides of the plates, 100,400,1000,4000 grit. When I’m normally sharpening I’m just using the 4000 side and it takes the burr off the back with a separate piece of 4000 that it rests on. Has a rack that the back of your chisel rests on that has preset and repeatable angles set into it. You can also purchase a leather hone plate if you want to go to a pure mirror finish, however I find the 4000 is plenty sharp enough for almost anything I do and only takes a few seconds to maintain silly sharp edges. ben
  20. Trussben
    Thanks for all the likes. Im thinking of maybe including the well so I decided to do a size and position check using the TFFM example shown in the book, seems to be a good fit in my hull. ben
  21. Trussben
    Here are the lower deck beams cut and shaped to length and temporarily installed so as to check positioning. I may remake a couple of them to get a better fit against the hull. You may also be able to spot the transom sleepers at the far end of the picture which still need their bolts to be complete. Happy Holidays to MSW. ben
  22. Trussben
    Beautiful joinery Albert. ben
  23. Trussben
    Thanks for all the likes and comments. Here are the two forward platforms, foremast step and the upper and lower breasthooks installed. ben
  24. Trussben
    Aft platform and mizzenmast step completed and installed. The tenons for the carlings and ledges were fun to make at their size with a good fit. ben
  25. Trussben
    Stabilizing wood is basically under vacuum forcing CA glue or another medium into the wood sample. Used a lot in pen making with oddball wood species that do not turn well, makes it harder and better/easier to turn. ben

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