gjdale

Coppering looks great Bug. As for protecting it, I think you only need to seal it to prevent it from oxidising, so a couple of coats of WOP as you suggest should do the trick.

Stern decorations completed and the end to Chapter 3.

The blue looks good Andy. I think your choice of colour scheme will make a nice point of difference to other Confederacy builds out there.

Thanks everyone for the likes and comments! 
 
 
I've had a browse through your log. Your build is looking pretty good too. Best of luck with the planking!
 
 
That's about all anyone can do, really. I guess I got lucky, she didn't try to eat any of the pieces (unlike poor BE with his Sphynx...)
 
A small update to share. I've decided to deviate a little with the colour scheme. This goes against what I've read about the prototype's possible colour scheme (hopefully I don't get sent to boat-jail for blasphemy🤞). 
 
I've gone with a dark blue for the area of the hull between the mouldings:
 
 
 
The official name of the colour is Polyscale "C&O Enchantment Blue". I think it compliments well with both the Golden Oak stain as well as the red from the gun ports; Polyscale "NYC Pacemaker Red" (I know, I'm using "railway" colours, but they're what I have on hand).
 

 
I had thought to return to black for the QD bulwarks, but I've since decided against that, and I think I will leave them as is. I think the black would have muted the dark blue too much. On to paint the port side.
 
Andy
 

Best wishes for your upcoming Op, Mark.
 
I agree with the others re the yellow ochre paint, but don’t rush it - just check under your signature again….the wood is patient…….

Best wishes for your upcoming Op, Mark.
 
I agree with the others re the yellow ochre paint, but don’t rush it - just check under your signature again….the wood is patient…….

Best wishes for your upcoming Op, Mark.
 
I agree with the others re the yellow ochre paint, but don’t rush it - just check under your signature again….the wood is patient…….

Hey guys, I think we might be drifting a bit here. Unless I've misunderstood, I think HOF was asking for advice on glues with a longer open time, not a quicker setting solution. Apologies if I've got the wrong end of the stick here. 

Just as an afterthought HOF, you might consider using Hide glue. I know that Titebond make a ready to use version (no need for heating glue pots). It has a long open time and is easy to use without a lot of mess (no more than white glue anyway). On this side of the ditch its available through Carbatec and other woodworking supply stores.

You may need to look further than a local hardware store HOF - specialist woodworking stores, or boat building supplies stores (or either on line) will likely be more successful for your search. Look for something that advertises “long open time” or words to that effect.

Best wishes for your upcoming Op, Mark.
 
I agree with the others re the yellow ochre paint, but don’t rush it - just check under your signature again….the wood is patient…….

Best wishes for your upcoming Op, Mark.
 
I agree with the others re the yellow ochre paint, but don’t rush it - just check under your signature again….the wood is patient…….

Post Fifty.
 
Completing the Galleries.
Now is the time it will become apparent whether my meddling has adversely affected the proper lie of the window and berthing patterns.

1696
Starting with the inner window pattern.
 I have worked on the basis of keeping the frame unaltered and running along the top line flush with the top of the frame.
I am using pva for this fixing to give me time for minor adjustments to the position. The outer pattern is checked for fit before the inner sets.
I was always expecting to have to do a fair amount of fettlin’ as I had  gone off piste with the gallery construction, and so it came to pass.
The day didn’t start well, the dog ate one of the outer window patterns another split during fitting, and the back edge of the assembly seemed to overhang the stern facia by 1mm, almost certainly due to my fiddling with the frames.
Not an unsurmountable issue as I will fix a work-around.
 
The Berthing piece is a short strong section of Pearwood that should follow the curve of the  pattern (45c).
I felt the need to soak this piece and  shape using the pattern I no longer needed as a former.

1694
In the end I scratch made the Berthing patterns to better fit my build.
The Berthing was pinned over this former and left overnight.
On the subject of Berthing patterns I had some discussion with James about which way around they were fitted.

1700(2)
It would seem that the end with the broader angle (on the right here)  fits at the stern end and butts against the Upper counter.
As the decorative mouldings follow the relative lines top and bottom around the stern counter and gallery this makes sense.
 
So, the basic portside gallery is completed.

1721(2)

1722

1720
My purpose in undertaking this modification is to bring a sense of light and element of depth to the Quarter Galleries rather than a dead black space behind the lights.
Opening up the doorway and the absence of planking on the Quarterdeck will fully achieve this.

1730
 
 
Rather than use the provided Upper counter outer pattern I planked the counter with individual Pear strips.
I  don’t intend to use the etched brass lettering on the counter and I didn’t want the pre marked positions limiting my choices.
 

1745
A little more work is required on the lower finishing piece where it meets the wale but overall I am fairly satisfied thus far.

1731(2)

1732(2)

1733(2)
I’ll leave this aspect of work until I receive the replacement window part for the Starboard Gallery.

In the meantime it’s back to port lining, at least with the outer Topsides patterns now in place it is easier to see how the linings should sit.
 
B.E.
10/12/21
 

 

Sorry to hear that Mark - sounds like something I would do! The paint solution sounds like a good plan.

Before starting on the rigging the straps for the deadeyes need to be made. These would be ideal for photoetching (see Siggi's latest postings) but I thought I'd make my own following the illustration by David Antscherl in Volume Two of Speedwell. Keep in mind straps varied in the number of links  based on the size of the vessel and era modelled. Here is the illustration of Speedwell's deadeye straps:
 

 
I used 24g brass straight wire from K&S. The first step was to form the toe loop. It was bent around a 0.33" drill bit using various shaped jewelers pliers.
 

 
Once the toe loop was formed the strap was transferred to a honeycombed ceramic soldering plate with steel pins to hold them in the correct position for silver soldering. I use Euro Tools  paste solder http:// Quote https://www.eurotool.com/search.asp?keyword=silver+solder+paste  and it is a joy to use. I used to have a 25-50% failure rate with silver solder but this self fluxing paste is magic - not one failure in the 18 straps and it flows beautifully. I used the low temperature solder for this application.

 

 
The strap was next cut to length

 
The top was bent into a hook with the round pointed jewelers plyers. 

 
It's extremely difficult to photograph the next step but the hook was tapered on each side to fit into the binding loop of the deadeye. I did this on the Byrnes disk sander and used files to finish.
 

 
Finally, the toe was bent to lie at the correct angle against the hull.

 
All straps are now being pickled before blackening and installing on the hull.

 
I can now start on Speedwell's rigging. I've only fully rigged two models before so this should be a fun learning experience for me. David has gone into great detail in Volume Two of Speedwell detailing every rope and fitting for rigging her so I have no excuse for not doing it correctly.

Sorry to hear that Mark - sounds like something I would do! The paint solution sounds like a good plan.

Hey guys, I think we might be drifting a bit here. Unless I've misunderstood, I think HOF was asking for advice on glues with a longer open time, not a quicker setting solution. Apologies if I've got the wrong end of the stick here. 

Hey guys, I think we might be drifting a bit here. Unless I've misunderstood, I think HOF was asking for advice on glues with a longer open time, not a quicker setting solution. Apologies if I've got the wrong end of the stick here. 

Hi Mark, do you think the black has been absorbed deep into the wood grain?  Just wondering if a sharp razor blade might scrape the surface clean, rather than paint it over.  A subtle yellow ochre would do the trick if not.  Also thank you for sharing with us your "whoops" moments, as a leading poster/builder on here, if you can share those moments, then that must encourage newcomers to reach out for help on MSW when they hit problems. 👍 👏

Sorry to hear that Mark - sounds like something I would do! The paint solution sounds like a good plan.

Just as an afterthought HOF, you might consider using Hide glue. I know that Titebond make a ready to use version (no need for heating glue pots). It has a long open time and is easy to use without a lot of mess (no more than white glue anyway). On this side of the ditch its available through Carbatec and other woodworking supply stores.

The previous discussion on this thread has been pared down. Please, folks, be civil in any replies you make in a topic regardless of how you feel about the subject. If you feel for any reason that a post or topic thread needs to be evaluated by MSW staff, please PM a moderator. Thank you! P.S. Please consider the discussion on this particular matter closed and move on.

You may need to look further than a local hardware store HOF - specialist woodworking stores, or boat building supplies stores (or either on line) will likely be more successful for your search. Look for something that advertises “long open time” or words to that effect.

Do you need to be “fiddling” with all five or six sections at once, or can you focus on one section at a time?
 
I’d be leaning towards the white PVA myself but you can get this in different set times. If you go for one of the slower setting ones, you should be okay.

Keep in mind we did moderate that that topic.   And what you cant see,   is that we did speak to those who treated the OP badly.  There is and will be no tolerance for belittling other members.   We have hundreds of members who may not be experts or they may even be beginners.   To call what they have posted as a tip or suggestion "trash"   is not something we want to condone at MSW.  We have many new builders who are proud of what they have done.  They want to share their methods and work.  It may not be perfect or masterful.  But they dont deserve to be treated badly.  And you wonder why new folks dont stick around.   Its because of people like those members who bashed the guy.  I counted six.  And I must say if those six experts suddenly vanished from the site...it would be less impactful then the scores of new builders alienated and poorly treated by them. 
 
These so called experts who love to pontificate (you know who they are)  will not be allowed to treat other members like dirt.   They have been formally warned.   If they continue...they will be banned.  The OP of that topic was NOT banned.   Nor was the topic removed.  It was being cleaned up and pruned of the nasty remarks other members were making.    Such as the one below.  Who would actually have the balls to to post THIS!!!   ...on another persons topic no less.   They should be ashamed of themselves.  As if they are so perfect.   
 
Pompous posters who love to pontificate on their wealth of knowledge be warned....do not treat folks this way.  There is a way to teach and educate without being a bully.  You guys are certainly NOT mentor material.  You get three strikes.....if the behavior continues...you are out.  The bully below says the member wasted his time.   You know what wasted my time...cleaning up the hate you decided to post all over someone elses topic.   That was a waste of my time.   Sending you a private message and issuing warnings to the folks who think they are "genius" masters who everyone should kiss up to....that was a waste of my time.
 
found the video a total waste of time. So what's to respect in the effort to make it and why do you care whether the poster "is getting pleasure in his task?" I know I may be criticized for being "insensitive," but I don't respect the efforts people put into posting useless, let alone erroneous, "how-to-do-it" videos on the internet and I could care less whether the people who post such drivel are getting pleasure from it. They waste everybody else's time. Who has the bandwidth to waste on junk content?
 
And here is the kicker.....non of the so -called MASTER builders in their INFINITE WISDOM of all things...posted a better method...or the correct historical reference.  They made ZERO attempt to politely state that there may be a better way or a more historically accurate way.   No attempt to teach or mentor.  They just bashed the guy and went on long Rants...like this one I am now forced to write about how so many people dont know as much as they do and yet post on You tube and the internet all this bad wrong information.....making society more stupid.
 
18 posts by expert bullies were pruned from that topic leaving just two replies.   All 18 had no value other than to belittle.   Shameful.   Talk about a waste of time reading those.   The replies of the bullies had no value what so ever.  Except of course maybe to allow the bullies to hear themselves claim omnipotent dominance of all things in the Universe.