gjdale

Thanks again for the kind remarks and all the "likes".
 
After a few weeks of absence from the shipyard due to work and other commitments, planking is at last complete! The remainder of the deck was completed in much the same way as the fore deck, with the hatch being left in place and planked together with the rear deck. The hatch was cut free on completion, the hatch openings and rear cockpit opening cleaned up, and the transom was then planked in much the same way as the sides of the hull. The transom was trimmed flush with the deck, sides and bottom of the boat, and then the decks were given an initial sanding with 80 grit sandpaper. The aim of the initial sanding is to bring the white caulking strips down level with the deck planks. While it was not difficult to do, it did require a little more elbow grease than I’d anticipated. Anyway, here she is as she sits today. The “spare” hatch is in the foreground (in case my two-part hatch doesn’t work out). There’s still quite a bit more sanding to be done before she will be ready for staining and fibre-glassing.
 

 
 

Hello,
 
Another small detail checked form the to do list.
 
Alexandru

Ah, symmetry

Thanks Don,
 
Yes, definitely a gloss finish - fibreglass/resin, two more coats of resin, then several clear coats of high gloss varnish, and then polished as shiny as I can make her! The bottom will be a gloss copper paint.

Thanks again for the kind remarks and all the "likes".
 
After a few weeks of absence from the shipyard due to work and other commitments, planking is at last complete! The remainder of the deck was completed in much the same way as the fore deck, with the hatch being left in place and planked together with the rear deck. The hatch was cut free on completion, the hatch openings and rear cockpit opening cleaned up, and the transom was then planked in much the same way as the sides of the hull. The transom was trimmed flush with the deck, sides and bottom of the boat, and then the decks were given an initial sanding with 80 grit sandpaper. The aim of the initial sanding is to bring the white caulking strips down level with the deck planks. While it was not difficult to do, it did require a little more elbow grease than I’d anticipated. Anyway, here she is as she sits today. The “spare” hatch is in the foreground (in case my two-part hatch doesn’t work out). There’s still quite a bit more sanding to be done before she will be ready for staining and fibre-glassing.
 

 
 

Thanks Mobbise, Mark and Ben.
 
A minor update tonight......
 
Construction: Gauges continued
 
Continuing development of the gauges, I came across another idea from the RC Forum – instant domed gauge glasses!
 

 
Yes, they’re “googly eyes”.  A few minutes on the sanding block to remove the backing and reduce the diameter to just fit the gauges and you have:
 

 

 
The plastic is not quite as clear as I would like, so not sure yet whether I’ll go with this in the end.  I have another alternate method to try yet……..

What a fine planking and cleanup job you've done.  She'll look great with a high gloss coat.
 
Bob

Back at it after helping wife and getting my NRG presentation on a CD mailed off. I checked the chain plate photo-etched parts and again the holes did not match the nails supplied. I darkened all the part sheets with Black Patina both sides and once set started to very carefully enlarge the holes with a small ream to fit the nails. Would have been great if the kit builder had checked these first.
 
I also stropped  all the deadeyes and twisted the number of eyebolts needed. All was slow tedious fussy work. The eyebolts were twisted using a #76 (.020") drill bit shank and 26 gauge black beading wire. Also keep the two hole in the deadeye up as best as possible given the hole locations on them.
 
Working off the plans I transferred the bottom backing link hole locations and drilled them with a .020" drill bit to receive the nails. Added the backing link to the hole and used a brass rod to align the link to drill the top hole location. Once drilled the chain plate was added, marked, cut and bent to fit it's location against the eyebolt or deadeye. Keep in mind that the top hole of the backing link needs a eyebolt to hold a ring instead of a nail. Again using the plans for the location of these rings.Once one section was competed the painted wood strip cap was added.
 
Here is a sequence of photos showing the process I am using.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Now to continue on with adding the chainplates.
 

Shaping the clamp ends in situ was a bit tricky..

 

 
Transom wings were shaped with sandpaper and scrapers and finished with xacto blade:

 
Result:

 
It is still clear that transom wings are made out of two pieces, and the gap between the pieces is still visible, but it is kind of better than it was. Sigh... Will do better transom on the next model!
Luckily it looks good from the outside, and the inner part of the transom would be barely visible under three layers of deck framing

Thanks again for the kind remarks and all the "likes".
 
After a few weeks of absence from the shipyard due to work and other commitments, planking is at last complete! The remainder of the deck was completed in much the same way as the fore deck, with the hatch being left in place and planked together with the rear deck. The hatch was cut free on completion, the hatch openings and rear cockpit opening cleaned up, and the transom was then planked in much the same way as the sides of the hull. The transom was trimmed flush with the deck, sides and bottom of the boat, and then the decks were given an initial sanding with 80 grit sandpaper. The aim of the initial sanding is to bring the white caulking strips down level with the deck planks. While it was not difficult to do, it did require a little more elbow grease than I’d anticipated. Anyway, here she is as she sits today. The “spare” hatch is in the foreground (in case my two-part hatch doesn’t work out). There’s still quite a bit more sanding to be done before she will be ready for staining and fibre-glassing.
 

 
 

Thanks again for the kind remarks and all the "likes".
 
After a few weeks of absence from the shipyard due to work and other commitments, planking is at last complete! The remainder of the deck was completed in much the same way as the fore deck, with the hatch being left in place and planked together with the rear deck. The hatch was cut free on completion, the hatch openings and rear cockpit opening cleaned up, and the transom was then planked in much the same way as the sides of the hull. The transom was trimmed flush with the deck, sides and bottom of the boat, and then the decks were given an initial sanding with 80 grit sandpaper. The aim of the initial sanding is to bring the white caulking strips down level with the deck planks. While it was not difficult to do, it did require a little more elbow grease than I’d anticipated. Anyway, here she is as she sits today. The “spare” hatch is in the foreground (in case my two-part hatch doesn’t work out). There’s still quite a bit more sanding to be done before she will be ready for staining and fibre-glassing.
 

 
 

Thanks again for the kind remarks and all the "likes".
 
After a few weeks of absence from the shipyard due to work and other commitments, planking is at last complete! The remainder of the deck was completed in much the same way as the fore deck, with the hatch being left in place and planked together with the rear deck. The hatch was cut free on completion, the hatch openings and rear cockpit opening cleaned up, and the transom was then planked in much the same way as the sides of the hull. The transom was trimmed flush with the deck, sides and bottom of the boat, and then the decks were given an initial sanding with 80 grit sandpaper. The aim of the initial sanding is to bring the white caulking strips down level with the deck planks. While it was not difficult to do, it did require a little more elbow grease than I’d anticipated. Anyway, here she is as she sits today. The “spare” hatch is in the foreground (in case my two-part hatch doesn’t work out). There’s still quite a bit more sanding to be done before she will be ready for staining and fibre-glassing.
 

 
 

That will look awesome, I love the looks of these boats with their super shiny hulls and decks. I have never worked with fibreglass/resin, I am really interested in seeing how it is done

She looks great, looking to seeing a finish on her. Are going to go for a gloss finish?

Cut the recesses for the brackets and horseshoes.
 
The brackets set just above the staples left a sliver of wood at the top.
I pinned these but still had to hold them down with my thumb to scribe along the edge with a scalpel.
I then removed the bracket and followed the cut line with a carving knife to get it deeper.
I used a mini chisel to remove the material and needed to wear my magnifying headpiece to see what I was doing otherwise it would have been much worse.
My eyesight is not what is used to be and is just getting worse.
 

 

 
I couldn't pin the horseshoe as the pins would have been in the way of scribing and holding with my thumb... ended up tracing the outline with a pencil and then scribing with the scalpel and knife just inside the line as best as I could.  I also had to remove the fore most staple as it would have been under the horseshoe.  I will reinstall these after they get shortened a wee bit.
I am happy with the outcome.
 

 

 
I marked the pockets and the back side of each piece with coloured markers so I know which goes where as they are not identical... just like the real build would have been.
I may install these and blacken them in place using a much weaker solution than the first time I tried with the staples.

Hi Piet,
 
yes sorry, I should have explained a bit better.......
The pic now should be self explaining. The sample bag foot button in the middle still has the fastening device..
 
Nils
 

 

 

 

OK - it's time to turn this into an official build log by documenting the beginning of the build....these photos may look familiar - in fact they're almost identical to photos posted earlier of my tests...the difference is that this is the real deal....
 
I remade patterns for the keel pieces, bulkheads, sternpost and rudder and arranged these on 4 3/16" birch ply billets. I then dragged out the bandsaw and managed to get through 2.5 of the billets before my wife came home with the kids and I had to pack up.....I also took my disc/belt sander for a test drive cleaning up the parts after cutting - I already see the great utility of this tool! One issue is that because of the depth of the gap between the belt sander and the frame I can't use the belt sander to clean up all the bulkhead slots....I'll take a file to these later....in the meantime, I'm quite pleased - I've only really botched one part so far (bulkhead "M", which I'll have to redo) - with a bit of finessing, I think the framework will come together just fine....
 
Anyway here are a couple of photos - it'll probably be back to the America during the coming week (making sails, and finishing the rigging), but while the weather's nice, I'd like to get as much into the Bluenose as possible - once the framework's done, I'll be able to move the build inside for planking, etc....
 
bye for now
hamilton
 

 

Thanks again for the kind remarks and all the "likes".
 
After a few weeks of absence from the shipyard due to work and other commitments, planking is at last complete! The remainder of the deck was completed in much the same way as the fore deck, with the hatch being left in place and planked together with the rear deck. The hatch was cut free on completion, the hatch openings and rear cockpit opening cleaned up, and the transom was then planked in much the same way as the sides of the hull. The transom was trimmed flush with the deck, sides and bottom of the boat, and then the decks were given an initial sanding with 80 grit sandpaper. The aim of the initial sanding is to bring the white caulking strips down level with the deck planks. While it was not difficult to do, it did require a little more elbow grease than I’d anticipated. Anyway, here she is as she sits today. The “spare” hatch is in the foreground (in case my two-part hatch doesn’t work out). There’s still quite a bit more sanding to be done before she will be ready for staining and fibre-glassing.
 

 
 

I'll add my thanks and appreciation for your detailed explanations and photo essays Ed. The techniques you have so skilfully demonstrated and explained, are applicable to a wide range of models and are an absolute treasure. Thank you for taking so much time and effort to post in such detail for the benefit of all.

I finished the stern lights, glued them in place and gave them a coat of poly.  Only the catheads and rigging the anchor to complete!

Got the stem horseshoe brackets and stern knee plates made.
 
I used 30 gauge copper plate (10 mil = 0.010" thick) which is 0.64" or practically exactly the 5/8" thickness required at scale.
I drew the shapes onto translucent graph paper then transfered the sketch to the plate with carbon paper.
 
The knee plate is 4-3/4" wide with horizontal leg at 5'-6" and vertical leg at 3'-6"
4 x 7/8" holes horizontally and 3x7/8" hole vertically.
 
The horseshoe was sketched to suit the space with the graph paper over the scale layout sheet.
I kept the shoe width at 4-3/4" (as best as I could).
 
Cutting with scissors was easy... except the curves on the horseshoe. I had to file these to finish a bit better after cutting.
The plate curls quite readily which makes it difficult to hold onto and the corners were sharp!  I've chamfered them a bit.
 
The drops from the brackets were perfect sized for the horseshoe so they was very little waste.
The holes were drilled very slowly with a pin vise and small #70 drill bit.
These will be installed after I trim the bolts done earlier today.

Sept 10 2016
 
Drilled and glued fishing line into the aft face of the Outer Stern Post, top face of the Gammon Piece and Extension, and forward face of the Stem Post assembly to simulate bolts.  Snapped two drill bits in the process... one is still in there.  I will cut flush and sand once the glue has time to dry.
 
There are some references to some bolting but seems to always be side views so I used my common sense (and artistic modelling license) to lay them out.  I'm using yellow wood glue and I've roughened the line with sand paper to allow the glue to grip and hold.
 
Next is the horse shoes and knee plates.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 173 – Stovepipe/Channels
 
A short update.
 
I am sure I have mentioned that my present goal with the model is to complete the work of fitting out the hull and decks in preparation for masts and rigging. Completion of this work will define the endpoint of Volume II of Modeling Young America, and the starting point of Volume III.  We're getting close, with only the deck and hull eyebolts and a few other small chores remaining.
 
One of the minor chores was making and fitting the stovepipe through the roof at the forward end of the main deck cabin.  This was made as a fabrication of pieces of telescoping brass tube segments – a convenient fabrication method.  The first picture shows the stack before blackening.
 

 
The design is based on the two photos of the ship.  Three sizes of tube were used, plus a segment of solid rod to close the top of the diffuser cap.  The next picture shows the installed stack.
 

 
The simulated flashing at the base helped secure the stack in a drilled hole.
 
This week the channel deadeye installations were also completed.  The next picture shows the starboard mizzen channel and deadeyes. 
 

 
Deadeyes on all channels range from 16" (.22" actual) to 6" (.08 actual).  The largest on the mizzen channel shown above are 13".  Making the deadeye chains was described in an earlier post.   A number of eyebolts are yet to be installed in the channels.
 
The last picture shows the model at the current state.
 

 
Another bit of work that may be noticeable to some followers of the project is that the decks have been finished with a single coat of diluted Tung oil.  The open pores of the unfinished decks were beginning to accumulate dirt.  The finish has darkened the Castello decks slightly, evened out their finish and will make them easier to keep clean.  I did not use the usual wax finish because I am anticipating gluing some rope coils later and I believe with the right glue they will hold on the (by then) polymerized Tung oil.  Anyway, the decks had to be finished.
 
Ed

Hi Joel, yeah the wooden pegs are great for modifying, have a good few where I rounded the fronts on the disc sander so they can grip right at the front and up to an edge.  The tiny clothes pegs in the previous photo are front the arts and crafts department and great for getting into tight spaces.  The springs in them are surprising strong; sometimes the legs break trying to open them if the grain is wrong.  Another favorite is bulldog clips but need to be careful they don’t dent the surface.
 
Hi Ken, I hadn’t thought about reversing the legs.  That would have come in handy for the previous glue up.
 
 
 
Okay, haven’t done a great deal since the last update so I thought I would take the opportunity to go through some pros and cons of the kit, some things I do/have done and some progress shots.
 
I think I have done enough on the kit to form some opinions on it both good and bad, not forgetting that some of them may be down to my inexperience and may not bother other modellers.
 
Firstly the pros; I reckon the print quality is very good and the parts look well represented.  Secondly the fit of the parts are excellent and any discrepancies would be down to my lack of experience.
 
The photo below is another pro in my book.  The horizontal and vertical rows of white dots are the positions of the horizontal hand rails and vertical step irons.  The reason I like this is because other kits have hand rails and step irons printed on which if left look very flat and if fabricated and installed means there is a strange ‘shadow’ or ‘mirroring’ due to the printing underneath.
 
I guess if you didn’t want to install the iron work in this kit then you would be left with white dots to deal with but I want to do the iron work so works for me.  The kit supplies templates for all the iron work as well which is good so takes out any guess work.
 

 
 
Now for some cons and I have touched on these briefly in the past.  Firstly I don’t like the paper; it delaminates too easily during folding and rolling. Sometimes even free hand cutting despite a new blade sometimes has other issues.
 
As a comparison the brief work I did on the Bismarck didn’t give me any cause for concern and the great deal of work done on Orliks Mazur made me realise how fantastic their paper is for all types of work performed.  I would say the Borodino has the worst of the three.
 
Another con I mentioned previously is the tight placement of parts on the sheets.  I don't mean the closeness of the same part but with unrelated parts.  Some parts are about 0.5mm to 1mm apart which I find frustrating as I like to rough cut out the part I want to work on so it can be maneuvered easier for final precision cutting.  I can’t be only person who does this as I assumed it would be how everyone does it.
 
The close parts placement wouldn’t be so bad if the paper as mentioned above was better as trying to split the parts leaves very little waste to trim off later which the paper doesn’t like doing very much.
 
I believe this is a tactic to reduce the numbers of parts sheets required for the kit; pack them in as close as possible to save space.  If they include just one more sheet to catch the overspill of spacing the parts out they could also have included another of my cons and that is the lack of solid colour swatches or blocks of print for the predominate colours.  Other kits I have use empty spare space to provide solid blocks of print so you can use this to make replacement parts or to add extra bits and pieces in the model colours.
 
The photo shows how close the parts placements are in a lot of cases.
 

 
 
Finally my last issue is the lack of folding info for parts which are mirrored and folded together to provide colour and detail on both sides of the part.  I mentioned this when doing the prop blades which weren’t a problem due to solid colours but in the photo below the wheels are a case in point of trying to mirror them accurately.  Even if the line in the ‘fold part’ legend was extended down between the parts there would be no issue.
 

 
 
Okay no more whinging; I am enjoying the kit immensely and will concentrate on making it to the best of my abilities although I will continue to point out any good things I come across.
 
 
 
Okay here are all the decks rough cut out.  In the photo I include how I store the parts sheets.  I use 2 plastic document folders.  One is for storing the complete sheets.  As parts are rough cut out for working on other parts get freed from the sheet and these parts are stored in the second folder.  I take care to keep the same part together with the part number so no confusion later.
 
I also replace parts sheets back in the folders immediately once I have gotten off them what I need to reduce the chances of them getting damaged by lying about on the work surface.
 

 
 
Another thing I want to point out which may not be obvious is to do with the cutting mat.  I have used this one for many years and is in reasonable condition as I don’t abuse it but the surface is becoming quite worn and I found recently when cutting out parts, particularly free hand the blade sometimes wandered as it was tracking in cuts in the mat below.
 
Well turn it over and you have a brand new mat.  The backside material is identical to the front side the only difference being it won’t have any printed lines and or dots on it but it works the same.  Double the bang for your buck. If I get another 8 years out of it I will be happy LOL
 

 
 
All the decks cut out and placed on the ship.  They are NOT glued down yet for a few reasons.  Firstly they show up that I still need to do some fairing work on the upper hull sections.  Also I want to check the relationship between the decks and black hull skins as they may need to go down in a particular order such as butting against over going under or over the side skins etc.
 
The part numbers suggest that they can go down now but sometimes prudent not to rely on the numbering alone for construction order as sometimes can seem very arbitrary with little relationship.
 

 

 
 
Next up is cutting out the side skins and replacing port holes.
 
Cheers
Slog

Update pics. Have finally got what is my favorite and easiest part the rigging and setting the yards. Had numerous ups and downs wish I had  been more diligent int the beginning with the badly warped decks and stern gallery pieces should have cut new ones instead of trying to flatten and use the warped ones, had to order numerous items that were missing strops dead eyes line lumber on and on . Any way got past all that did the shrouds and ratlines twice got past that, three broken mast tops (mamas adorable babies     cats) 1 broken mast top with rigging installed got past that (an I dealing with the Titanic. Oh a note for manufacturers in your directions gun port lids should not be installed in the beginning  of a build but at the end so a dummy like me will not knock them off like I did (16 off and re a fix)   By the way the pic of mans best friend Mack the Dane 10 yrs. Charlie the Dachshund 15 blind cataracts Mack takes care of Charlie he doesn't bump into too many walls both have the arthritis. Thought they would take care of my  3 cat problems, sadly they all sleep together will have to take care of Mamas precious     little babies myself