bartley
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bartley got a reaction from Dave B in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Flooring and Platforms
I found both these steps quite challenging .The flooring has to bend over the frames of course and notching the platforms neatly was also challenging. They are still not perfect but as good as I can get them.
John
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bartley got a reaction from No Idea in drilling hole through wire
I have done this on 2 mm brass rod with a good success rate. My technique was:
1. I used a mill to ensure the hole was vertical.
2, I used a V bar and centered the drill bit on the V before clamping the rod into the V
3. I used a Kyocera bit as they a very sharp
4. You can file a very small flat on the side where the drill will enter but I did not find this necessary.
John
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bartley got a reaction from robert952 in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Finishing the Cap rails
After thinning down the Cap rails to around 5/32, the inboard strake added. They were painted red and the friezes attached
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bartley got a reaction from Freebird in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Finishing the Cap rails
After thinning down the Cap rails to around 5/32, the inboard strake added. They were painted red and the friezes attached
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bartley got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Finishing the Cap rails
After thinning down the Cap rails to around 5/32, the inboard strake added. They were painted red and the friezes attached
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bartley got a reaction from iMustBeCrazy in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Finishing the Cap rails
After thinning down the Cap rails to around 5/32, the inboard strake added. They were painted red and the friezes attached
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bartley got a reaction from JpR62 in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Finishing the Cap rails
After thinning down the Cap rails to around 5/32, the inboard strake added. They were painted red and the friezes attached
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bartley got a reaction from Diver in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Finishing the Cap rails
After thinning down the Cap rails to around 5/32, the inboard strake added. They were painted red and the friezes attached
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bartley got a reaction from Chuck in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Finishing the Cap rails
After thinning down the Cap rails to around 5/32, the inboard strake added. They were painted red and the friezes attached
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in drilling hole through wire
I have done this on 2 mm brass rod with a good success rate. My technique was:
1. I used a mill to ensure the hole was vertical.
2, I used a V bar and centered the drill bit on the V before clamping the rod into the V
3. I used a Kyocera bit as they a very sharp
4. You can file a very small flat on the side where the drill will enter but I did not find this necessary.
John
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bartley got a reaction from toms10 in drilling hole through wire
I have done this on 2 mm brass rod with a good success rate. My technique was:
1. I used a mill to ensure the hole was vertical.
2, I used a V bar and centered the drill bit on the V before clamping the rod into the V
3. I used a Kyocera bit as they a very sharp
4. You can file a very small flat on the side where the drill will enter but I did not find this necessary.
John
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bartley got a reaction from allanyed in drilling hole through wire
I have done this on 2 mm brass rod with a good success rate. My technique was:
1. I used a mill to ensure the hole was vertical.
2, I used a V bar and centered the drill bit on the V before clamping the rod into the V
3. I used a Kyocera bit as they a very sharp
4. You can file a very small flat on the side where the drill will enter but I did not find this necessary.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in drilling hole through wire
I have done this on 2 mm brass rod with a good success rate. My technique was:
1. I used a mill to ensure the hole was vertical.
2, I used a V bar and centered the drill bit on the V before clamping the rod into the V
3. I used a Kyocera bit as they a very sharp
4. You can file a very small flat on the side where the drill will enter but I did not find this necessary.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Stepping the mast with a plum bob...two questions.
I agree with those who say not to glue the mast at all. However, in most cases there is quite a deep slot cut into the bulkhead under the mast which should set the rake quite at least approximately,. As you tighten up the rigging you still need to check th alignment I used to use a plumb bob but always found this a real PIA as it starts to swing on the slightest movement. I now use a laser level (quite a cheap one). I set it up about 1 m from the ship and it does NOT move and it projects a cross so that you can adjust the deck to match the horizontal line and the mast to match the vertical line. For the rake you can use a jig to tilt the ship forward by the correct amount and use the laser level again.
John
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bartley got a reaction from HardeeHarHar in Stepping the mast with a plum bob...two questions.
I agree with those who say not to glue the mast at all. However, in most cases there is quite a deep slot cut into the bulkhead under the mast which should set the rake quite at least approximately,. As you tighten up the rigging you still need to check th alignment I used to use a plumb bob but always found this a real PIA as it starts to swing on the slightest movement. I now use a laser level (quite a cheap one). I set it up about 1 m from the ship and it does NOT move and it projects a cross so that you can adjust the deck to match the horizontal line and the mast to match the vertical line. For the rake you can use a jig to tilt the ship forward by the correct amount and use the laser level again.
John
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bartley got a reaction from John Ruy in Stepping the mast with a plum bob...two questions.
I agree with those who say not to glue the mast at all. However, in most cases there is quite a deep slot cut into the bulkhead under the mast which should set the rake quite at least approximately,. As you tighten up the rigging you still need to check th alignment I used to use a plumb bob but always found this a real PIA as it starts to swing on the slightest movement. I now use a laser level (quite a cheap one). I set it up about 1 m from the ship and it does NOT move and it projects a cross so that you can adjust the deck to match the horizontal line and the mast to match the vertical line. For the rake you can use a jig to tilt the ship forward by the correct amount and use the laser level again.
John
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bartley got a reaction from robert952 in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
The Wales are now installed and sanded back for and aft as recommended by Chuck.:
When the hull is inverted and the build board removed it looks like this:
The removal of the frames was quite straightforward . However there is way too much seepage of glue into the interior of the hull . This is the first time I have used CA to fix the planks. I clearly overdid it. I was a little unsure about the faring and wanted to ensure that the planks were secure. I needn't have worried as the fit was pretty good in fact.
The cap rails were then installed leaving plenty of meat on either side for sanding to shape:
Next the bolsters at the bow were fabricated and fitted. A tricky little job this one. Chuck provides six blanks and I used five to get two satisfactory ones:
The next task is to fair the inside and narrow down the cap rails significantly.
John
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bartley got a reaction from rlwhitt in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
The Wales are now installed and sanded back for and aft as recommended by Chuck.:
When the hull is inverted and the build board removed it looks like this:
The removal of the frames was quite straightforward . However there is way too much seepage of glue into the interior of the hull . This is the first time I have used CA to fix the planks. I clearly overdid it. I was a little unsure about the faring and wanted to ensure that the planks were secure. I needn't have worried as the fit was pretty good in fact.
The cap rails were then installed leaving plenty of meat on either side for sanding to shape:
Next the bolsters at the bow were fabricated and fitted. A tricky little job this one. Chuck provides six blanks and I used five to get two satisfactory ones:
The next task is to fair the inside and narrow down the cap rails significantly.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
The Wales are now installed and sanded back for and aft as recommended by Chuck.:
When the hull is inverted and the build board removed it looks like this:
The removal of the frames was quite straightforward . However there is way too much seepage of glue into the interior of the hull . This is the first time I have used CA to fix the planks. I clearly overdid it. I was a little unsure about the faring and wanted to ensure that the planks were secure. I needn't have worried as the fit was pretty good in fact.
The cap rails were then installed leaving plenty of meat on either side for sanding to shape:
Next the bolsters at the bow were fabricated and fitted. A tricky little job this one. Chuck provides six blanks and I used five to get two satisfactory ones:
The next task is to fair the inside and narrow down the cap rails significantly.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Freebird in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
The Wales are now installed and sanded back for and aft as recommended by Chuck.:
When the hull is inverted and the build board removed it looks like this:
The removal of the frames was quite straightforward . However there is way too much seepage of glue into the interior of the hull . This is the first time I have used CA to fix the planks. I clearly overdid it. I was a little unsure about the faring and wanted to ensure that the planks were secure. I needn't have worried as the fit was pretty good in fact.
The cap rails were then installed leaving plenty of meat on either side for sanding to shape:
Next the bolsters at the bow were fabricated and fitted. A tricky little job this one. Chuck provides six blanks and I used five to get two satisfactory ones:
The next task is to fair the inside and narrow down the cap rails significantly.
John
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bartley got a reaction from RossR in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
The Wales are now installed and sanded back for and aft as recommended by Chuck.:
When the hull is inverted and the build board removed it looks like this:
The removal of the frames was quite straightforward . However there is way too much seepage of glue into the interior of the hull . This is the first time I have used CA to fix the planks. I clearly overdid it. I was a little unsure about the faring and wanted to ensure that the planks were secure. I needn't have worried as the fit was pretty good in fact.
The cap rails were then installed leaving plenty of meat on either side for sanding to shape:
Next the bolsters at the bow were fabricated and fitted. A tricky little job this one. Chuck provides six blanks and I used five to get two satisfactory ones:
The next task is to fair the inside and narrow down the cap rails significantly.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Diver in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
The Wales are now installed and sanded back for and aft as recommended by Chuck.:
When the hull is inverted and the build board removed it looks like this:
The removal of the frames was quite straightforward . However there is way too much seepage of glue into the interior of the hull . This is the first time I have used CA to fix the planks. I clearly overdid it. I was a little unsure about the faring and wanted to ensure that the planks were secure. I needn't have worried as the fit was pretty good in fact.
The cap rails were then installed leaving plenty of meat on either side for sanding to shape:
Next the bolsters at the bow were fabricated and fitted. A tricky little job this one. Chuck provides six blanks and I used five to get two satisfactory ones:
The next task is to fair the inside and narrow down the cap rails significantly.
John
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bartley got a reaction from robert952 in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Planking completed
I have all nine planks on now but the wales are still to be installed. It looks a bit "blotchy" because I gave the first five planks a coat of Wipe On Poly and when I sanded back some of it remained. It will be more uniform when I apply I final coat
I am also a bit shy of the top of the frames amidships (by a little under 1/32). I could see that this was happening throughout the planking. I think maybe I did not fare quite enough in this region. Anyway I was proposing to address it by making a slightly wider second Wale
John
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bartley got a reaction from Chuck in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Planking completed
I have all nine planks on now but the wales are still to be installed. It looks a bit "blotchy" because I gave the first five planks a coat of Wipe On Poly and when I sanded back some of it remained. It will be more uniform when I apply I final coat
I am also a bit shy of the top of the frames amidships (by a little under 1/32). I could see that this was happening throughout the planking. I think maybe I did not fare quite enough in this region. Anyway I was proposing to address it by making a slightly wider second Wale
John
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bartley got a reaction from Matt D in Medway Longboat 1742 by bartley - 1:24 scale
Planking completed
I have all nine planks on now but the wales are still to be installed. It looks a bit "blotchy" because I gave the first five planks a coat of Wipe On Poly and when I sanded back some of it remained. It will be more uniform when I apply I final coat
I am also a bit shy of the top of the frames amidships (by a little under 1/32). I could see that this was happening throughout the planking. I think maybe I did not fare quite enough in this region. Anyway I was proposing to address it by making a slightly wider second Wale
John
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