reklein

I disagree with Canute. One of the reasons for sealing is to prevent the wood from taking stain color unevenly. Secially in the case of porous woods such and oak and pine. Pine for instance if left unsealed will be blotchy od where theres knots will not take stain at all. Also you need to seal before any paint or lines are put on as your paint will run along the grain of the wood and lose its sharpness.

I think the sealer would improve the use of CA as the wood is sealed and the CA won't soak in so much. If you apply CA to end grain often it will just soak in and leave no glue on the surface so you have to reapply the glue.

Vossiewulf does not suffer from tool collecting, he enjoys it.

Vossiewulf does not suffer from tool collecting, he enjoys it.

Vossiewulf does not suffer from tool collecting, he enjoys it.

Vossiewulf does not suffer from tool collecting, he enjoys it.

I have a great contact for a therapist

Jeremy:
 
Otto Frei
Lee Valley
Stewart McDonald
Woodcraft
Artco Tools (professional rotary tools)
DA Medical (where I've bought most surgical tools, EBay store- buy used German tools you'll be very happy)
 
You want to look through pretty much everything each of them have, and as far as I know they all ship global. Probably 90% of my out-of-control tool collection comes from one of those.
 
Here was my benchtop when I laid everything out to reorganize because my acquisitions had completely overwhelmed my existing tool holders. This is what happens when a tool nut is twice divorced and is left totally unmonitored: shrink-tube color-coded needle file arrays. And this is just the stuff ON my bench you're not seeing the 22 other drawers and the built-in cabinets etc.

Little better now. Try not to notice there is yet ANOTHER needle file set in the holder.

Thanks all - I have found them
 
Will have to order though - South Africa is a tad far from the States  - some days I wish I could take some lotto earnings and visit all these nice shops and suppliers in the States
 
You guys are spoilt for choice

Bill, you're right with those woods. I've been tunnel vision on small scale models and  basswood. I use a conditioner on the basswood before staining, but that's not a sanding sealer. Thanks.

I disagree with Canute. One of the reasons for sealing is to prevent the wood from taking stain color unevenly. Secially in the case of porous woods such and oak and pine. Pine for instance if left unsealed will be blotchy od where theres knots will not take stain at all. Also you need to seal before any paint or lines are put on as your paint will run along the grain of the wood and lose its sharpness.

A few minor things added, like the Running Gear, Brake Lever and Wheels and she's all done and FINISHED. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out :
 



 
  Danny

I think the sealer would improve the use of CA as the wood is sealed and the CA won't soak in so much. If you apply CA to end grain often it will just soak in and leave no glue on the surface so you have to reapply the glue.

I debated writing this but then thought it couldn't hurt: sandpaper. Use it! I don't want to name and shame anyone, but there is a huge proportion of finished models displayed on MSW on which the detailed photos of deck fittings or mast details show a lack of adequate sanding and surface prep. It looks like a lot of builders punch out the laser cut parts and incorporate them directly into the model without sanding to an adequate degree. I KNOW that close up photography of small parts reveals flaws not visible to the naked eye but some of the model photos I see show that a lot of small wooden parts are going onto models without enough sanding taking place, the surfaces are often covered in irregular globs bumps and spikes.
since most kit models are basswood, it helps to recognize that the biggest drawback of basswood is it's fuzzyness. In other respects it's a great material but at the near-microscopic level fibers at the edges are very stringy, they don't break off neatly at the surface of the wood but cling on randomly as fuzz. Paint or varnish going on over this fuzz only serves to make the fuzz bolder and stick out in hardened spikes and that's what I'm looking at in these detail photos I'm seeing. I'm going to make another plug for the use of a Sanding Sealer. Available in any hardwear store, one can should last your entire modeling career. I use a water based Minwax Sanding Sealer. It paints on like thin acrylic paint, completely transparent. When dry it has the effect of darkening the wood just a bit. Is that so bad? The surface you get has hardened and feels shellacked. When you go over it with fine sandpaper those annoying stringy grainy fibers break right off at the surface in a way that reminds you of those old animated cross sectional shaving razor commercials in which each hair is lifted and cut perfectly at its base. You get a smooth surface where the grain is still visible but not in the form of huge peaks and deep valleys, a surface that can withstand the scrutiny of close-up miniature photography.

Outstanding model and beautiful impression with the crew on decks. You did a great job. 
My admiration, dear Nils.
Kind regards, 
Doris

Flying RC is like learning to ride a bicycle. You have some crashes at first, but then you catch on. Even after you've not flown for a number of years, it comes right back to you once you've learned the orientation and have developed some muscle memory for moving the control sticks. A great hobby, but getting harder to find proper flying sites for large flying models like I love to build.

My thanks go to Rob and Bill,
and all fellow members who gave their kind input, suggestions and comments for boats making... recently
Also thanks to all the "likes"...
 
Rob,
good idea with the vibrating palm sander, I must try that, and save in mind..., I was already thinking of what I possibly could use exactly for that purpose...
 
Bill,
the additional plug still requires some corrections, but I think in general it should work as intended. After glueing the halves together I will remove the center area of the halfmoon like top cover until only the rail on the sheer remains standing. Here in the white sample there is no inner bulwark support, whilst the translucent sample was made from the modified plug with 8 slots to resemble the ribs...
 
Nils
 

 
halves ready for fairing sanding the to be matching glue surfaces

 
here 5 completed boats

 
 
The upper sample with reinforcement ribs

 
the additional plug for hanging / fixing into the silicon mold

 
now that it works, the other side of the plug will also get outcuts

Sometimes if you use a slower setting resin the bubbles will have more time to float out. With fast setting, the bubbles don't have time to float out and are trapped. Also I forgot to see if you vented your molds.

Yeah ,my bad I was thinking you were using a closed mold for a whole boat. But, I looked back and saw your method. I was trying to make 192/1 landing craft and having a terrible time with fast setting resin. The project is really coming along nice I spite of all the help you're getting from us. =)
 

Hi Danny nice job on the coach. I read somewhere that the thoroughbraces were more for the horses benefit than the riders or the coach. I think they kept the jolting wagon from jerking the horses around. It certainly would have made the ride smoother. Another word about coaches. The pounding of rocks hit on the roads had the effect of pounding out the steel tires and lengthening them thus loosening the wheels. Its amazing the trivia one picks up when researching projects.

Hi Danny nice job on the coach. I read somewhere that the thoroughbraces were more for the horses benefit than the riders or the coach. I think they kept the jolting wagon from jerking the horses around. It certainly would have made the ride smoother. Another word about coaches. The pounding of rocks hit on the roads had the effect of pounding out the steel tires and lengthening them thus loosening the wheels. Its amazing the trivia one picks up when researching projects.

Hi Danny nice job on the coach. I read somewhere that the thoroughbraces were more for the horses benefit than the riders or the coach. I think they kept the jolting wagon from jerking the horses around. It certainly would have made the ride smoother. Another word about coaches. The pounding of rocks hit on the roads had the effect of pounding out the steel tires and lengthening them thus loosening the wheels. Its amazing the trivia one picks up when researching projects.

Beautiful job,

Sometimes if you use a slower setting resin the bubbles will have more time to float out. With fast setting, the bubbles don't have time to float out and are trapped. Also I forgot to see if you vented your molds.

Hi Danny nice job on the coach. I read somewhere that the thoroughbraces were more for the horses benefit than the riders or the coach. I think they kept the jolting wagon from jerking the horses around. It certainly would have made the ride smoother. Another word about coaches. The pounding of rocks hit on the roads had the effect of pounding out the steel tires and lengthening them thus loosening the wheels. Its amazing the trivia one picks up when researching projects.