Srodbro

I spent some years designing dust and fume collection systems for laboratories and research facilities. Most devices like this are of little value; it’s the nature of the beast.
Try this experiment:  Get your vacuum cleaner hose, and hold your hand a 1/4” from the nozzle. Feel the air movement?  Ok, now move your hand 1” from the nozzle:  you probably can’t feel air moving, or just barely. 2” away you feel nothing. 
Now, connect your vacuum hose to the discharge of the vacuum ( if you can). You can hold your hand several feet from the discharge and still feel the air movement. 
Why the difference?  Air best flows to where it is pushed, not pulled. 
The suction of the hose is relying on barometric pressure to push the air into it ( essentially, the vacuum hose creates a “ hole” in the surrounding area near the nozzle that the air “falls” into). On the discharge end, the energy from the vacuum cleaner motor has been imparted to the air and will move with more force. 
To better control the particles in the air, get a small fan to blow across your work surface away from you. 

I spent some years designing dust and fume collection systems for laboratories and research facilities. Most devices like this are of little value; it’s the nature of the beast.
Try this experiment:  Get your vacuum cleaner hose, and hold your hand a 1/4” from the nozzle. Feel the air movement?  Ok, now move your hand 1” from the nozzle:  you probably can’t feel air moving, or just barely. 2” away you feel nothing. 
Now, connect your vacuum hose to the discharge of the vacuum ( if you can). You can hold your hand several feet from the discharge and still feel the air movement. 
Why the difference?  Air best flows to where it is pushed, not pulled. 
The suction of the hose is relying on barometric pressure to push the air into it ( essentially, the vacuum hose creates a “ hole” in the surrounding area near the nozzle that the air “falls” into). On the discharge end, the energy from the vacuum cleaner motor has been imparted to the air and will move with more force. 
To better control the particles in the air, get a small fan to blow across your work surface away from you. 

I spent some years designing dust and fume collection systems for laboratories and research facilities. Most devices like this are of little value; it’s the nature of the beast.
Try this experiment:  Get your vacuum cleaner hose, and hold your hand a 1/4” from the nozzle. Feel the air movement?  Ok, now move your hand 1” from the nozzle:  you probably can’t feel air moving, or just barely. 2” away you feel nothing. 
Now, connect your vacuum hose to the discharge of the vacuum ( if you can). You can hold your hand several feet from the discharge and still feel the air movement. 
Why the difference?  Air best flows to where it is pushed, not pulled. 
The suction of the hose is relying on barometric pressure to push the air into it ( essentially, the vacuum hose creates a “ hole” in the surrounding area near the nozzle that the air “falls” into). On the discharge end, the energy from the vacuum cleaner motor has been imparted to the air and will move with more force. 
To better control the particles in the air, get a small fan to blow across your work surface away from you. 

Glad to see you are back. 
Yeah, looking forward to doing ratlines is about the least motivating step in a build, but once they are done, you are so much closer to doing running rigging, which I think is motivating. 
Great looking build. 

Similar situations in the South. Many tracks that were once filled to capacity on weekends and Friday nights are gone. There are a few that remain but only a handful compared to earlier years. Average guys were the ones who campaigned those race cars of old. The sport has become far too expensive to keep a car on the track anymore. I had a friend we called "DLD", an acronym for dead last Danny. The fellow had a literal junk-yard on his rural property where he salvaged car parts to build his racers. I always gave him props for having the fortitude and determination to get in there and race because he rarely ever won, placed or show. Always at or near dead last. Last I heard not more than a few months ago, he's still racing.
 
My dad was a huge racing fan. He loved auto racing, motorcycle racing, horse racing, buggy racing, trotters, you name it. If it raced, he went to see it. I was blessed to have him take me with him all the time except when he travelled out of town to races like Indy. My fondest racing memories were of the fairgrounds clay track where they raced sprint cars and motorcycles. Man, I saw some thrilling, hair-standing action with some of the best drivers on the planet for those type races. Back in that day, Offys were king in the sprint cars and midgets while Harleys ruled the motorcycle events. 

The look of that beast brings back memories....  one variation was the so-called "outlaw" class, if I remember right.  Good times on Friday and/or Saturday nights at the oval tracks.

I spent some years designing dust and fume collection systems for laboratories and research facilities. Most devices like this are of little value; it’s the nature of the beast.
Try this experiment:  Get your vacuum cleaner hose, and hold your hand a 1/4” from the nozzle. Feel the air movement?  Ok, now move your hand 1” from the nozzle:  you probably can’t feel air moving, or just barely. 2” away you feel nothing. 
Now, connect your vacuum hose to the discharge of the vacuum ( if you can). You can hold your hand several feet from the discharge and still feel the air movement. 
Why the difference?  Air best flows to where it is pushed, not pulled. 
The suction of the hose is relying on barometric pressure to push the air into it ( essentially, the vacuum hose creates a “ hole” in the surrounding area near the nozzle that the air “falls” into). On the discharge end, the energy from the vacuum cleaner motor has been imparted to the air and will move with more force. 
To better control the particles in the air, get a small fan to blow across your work surface away from you. 

I spent some years designing dust and fume collection systems for laboratories and research facilities. Most devices like this are of little value; it’s the nature of the beast.
Try this experiment:  Get your vacuum cleaner hose, and hold your hand a 1/4” from the nozzle. Feel the air movement?  Ok, now move your hand 1” from the nozzle:  you probably can’t feel air moving, or just barely. 2” away you feel nothing. 
Now, connect your vacuum hose to the discharge of the vacuum ( if you can). You can hold your hand several feet from the discharge and still feel the air movement. 
Why the difference?  Air best flows to where it is pushed, not pulled. 
The suction of the hose is relying on barometric pressure to push the air into it ( essentially, the vacuum hose creates a “ hole” in the surrounding area near the nozzle that the air “falls” into). On the discharge end, the energy from the vacuum cleaner motor has been imparted to the air and will move with more force. 
To better control the particles in the air, get a small fan to blow across your work surface away from you. 

Progress update. Have been working on the main and foremast ratlines and shrouds. Have got to do another crowsfeet set up on the main mast just like the foremast has. I'm happy found motivation again to continue.

Finished coppering the hull and then mounted on a temporary base. It is important not to use a cradle as it will damage the plates. The thin wood strip is a "wood guard" added at the water line as noted in the Whaling Museum plans. Next step is to finish the rudder, hinges, and give the copper a good cleaning before airbrushing a coat of Dullcote lacquer.

This stage of the build was very time consuming and I am anxious to start on the deck structures

Very interested in following this build. 
I have built several models, now, with solid hulls, several from kits. I became frustrated enough carving down what I judged to be grossly inaccurate kit hulls that I have reverted to building up my own solid hulls, which is a lot more work, but allows me to start shaping something that more closely resembles the finished shape. 
Perhaps my experiences have been anomalies. 
I wonder if you could show in your build log how much ( or how little) you have to carve off of the hull blank to get to the finished shape. 
 
Oh yeah ... it’s nice to see you thinking about furled sails while still carving the hull ... optimism at its best!

Well I guess it’s a wrap. I completed my Charles W. Morgan today. It has been an educational and fun 2 year journey. Thanks to everyone here on MSW for all the support. Not sure what my next build will be. I will take a break for a bit. I still have a 9000 piece puzzle of the Battle of Algiers. That will be a good project to take a break with. 
 
Here are some final pics. I need to figure out how to make an album and mark the build log finished. 
 
Happy modeling!
 










 

Any words of wisdom regarding the veracity of other woods they sell, like Cherry or walnut?  

Any words of wisdom regarding the veracity of other woods they sell, like Cherry or walnut?  

Any words of wisdom regarding the veracity of other woods they sell, like Cherry or walnut?  

The rigging is about done. Next up are davits and the boats.  I learned the hard way on the Morgan that installing davits before rigging is an invitation to break the davits.  

The Morgan is essentially finished.  One little line to trim when I get around to it.

I recently completed my version of Gjoa, which I did with sails. I had the same question about that item, and as near as I could tell it is where the sheet of the fore staysail attaches to the rail traversing the deck forward of the mast. I think the term comes from the idea that this line would “ slap” from port to starboard ( or vice-versa) while tacking. 
Here is a not so clear pic of my model with the subject circled in yellow. 
At least, that is how I interpreted it. Though, keep in mind my Norwegian is limited to “ Aquavit” and “Skol”!

I recently completed my version of Gjoa, which I did with sails. I had the same question about that item, and as near as I could tell it is where the sheet of the fore staysail attaches to the rail traversing the deck forward of the mast. I think the term comes from the idea that this line would “ slap” from port to starboard ( or vice-versa) while tacking. 
Here is a not so clear pic of my model with the subject circled in yellow. 
At least, that is how I interpreted it. Though, keep in mind my Norwegian is limited to “ Aquavit” and “Skol”!

Cutting stage built and hung

I am always blow-away by the micro-soldering skills on these forums. 
Wonderful work!

I am always blow-away by the micro-soldering skills on these forums. 
Wonderful work!

To those who stopped by or gave likes, thank you for your interest and enthusiasm.
 
Whaaaaale Boaaaaat proggggggressss.
 
It feels like I’m in slow motion working my way through carving and sanding the whale boat hulls, but considering ongoing family health issues, caregiving and the rather abrupt passing of a relative the carving process has been therapeutic.

Three Dremel bits worked best, for me at least.  The side cutter was good at knocking off edges and rough shaping; the orange cone blended and smoothed; and the tiny tip was helpful in the narrow spots at bow and stern.
A sample shows reasonably good carving for the interior (I think).  More work needed at bow and stern although some of it will be covered (I hope).
Once I had the technique the remaining interiors went fairly quickly, maybe an hour or two each.  The over-width bits of sheer line at bow and stern should disappear when I do the exterior sides.
To keep the overall length of whale boats consistent I made another template to place along the keel line, taking care to cut the template on the hull line so I will have space to add the keel, which I expect will be a strip of styrene.  I started the template with a copy of the profile, spray adhesived to Bristol board, but I didn’t leave enough meat along the bottom so I added a wood strip for stiffness.

After sawing off the tabs at each end I sanded the curves with the Dremel drum sander, followed by sanding blocks.
 
Once the boats are all the same length I’ll attack the exterior sides and bottom.  The exterior sanding in the photo above is part of a test.
 
Thanks for viewing.
 
Steve
 

I am always blow-away by the micro-soldering skills on these forums. 
Wonderful work!

I am always blow-away by the micro-soldering skills on these forums. 
Wonderful work!