petervisser

Thanks Peter for your comments…
 
Funny as I reviewed your entire Cutty Sark build log a few weeks back and enjoyed it thoroughly. 
 
PS… noticed you are on the Island… my parents are retired in Nanaimo and we love to spend time there once a year, time permitting. 
 
Cheers,

Quick update on progress, finished all the wales, painted the upper hull, fitted gun ports and then painted the bottom of the hull. Next it will be a final sanding and then stain the outer hull. Going to go with a dark stain as per the instructions. Based on quality of materials provide in the kit, display room and other projects waiting in the wings I have decided not to rig the ship with masts or sails. 

So finished planking the small stern section and made a bit of a hash of it. I really don't like working with Obechi planking provided with the kit. It is very fibrous and easily tears out at the ends. End tear out is evident in the following pictures.

 

Because I already planked a portion of the sides I could not get good angles to attach clamps and had to use a few temporary nails. I am trying to avoid this because I am single planking the hull. It also led to some interesting clamping set-ups.

Removed the nails and filled the holes, once the side planking meets up with this section I will have to use more filler to make it look decent. 

I read in someones build log that they were not a fan of exposed plywood edges, neither am I. I had some iron on edging left over from another build so decided to use it on the keel.

In the end the stern section did not come together the way I wanted but learned lots and can't get to hung up on the results as it is part of the growth process. I will leave with two recommendations for anyone who might be looking to build this kit.
First, if you are looking to produce a museum quality build either plan on double planking the hull or replace the Obechi planking strips with another type of wood.
Second, if I was to start over I think I would plank this stern section first, it will make clamping a whole lot easier and would also avoid the mistake I made in the last post. 
On to planking the rest of the hull.

What stunning models! All the best with your transition to tall ship building. If it's anything like your current work, it will be epic!
Cheers,
Peter

What stunning models! All the best with your transition to tall ship building. If it's anything like your current work, it will be epic!
Cheers,
Peter

What stunning models! All the best with your transition to tall ship building. If it's anything like your current work, it will be epic!
Cheers,
Peter

Hi everybody! 
 
Joining here as my passion always lied with the warships of late 19th century, but you would not know it looking at my work. Which is mostly 1:700 scale grey warships for 1900-1945 period.  I have boxed myself into quite a corner: 1:700 only, full hull only, weathered only! There is a limit to kits available with that requirement.
 
I dont do anything else, Im agnostic to submarine or a carrier (OK, Im not a big fan of carriers) and I quite like capital ships, models of ship wrecks and submarines. I love comparison modeling, where you build several ships of the same scale to get a sense of how they relate to each other. I kind of think thats my main goal, build different ships in small scale and compare them to each other. And make them weathered, alive, as if plucked from the sea during a voyage. I dont do dios or figures, Im purely after the object modeling. 
 
Which brings me here. My secret desire for a long time has been to get out of the grey fleet and into the tall ships, of the 1800s and the steam era. In a scale that noone really does, 1:700. So this should be fun. 
 
Here is some of my work attached, and you can find my under "shipific" here, on Instagram or under my old handle "pascalemod" on other modeling forums. I am from Estonia originally, residing in sunny Sweden. 
 

The boat is ready, just the rudder and place it on the ship...🔥







The 1:60 scale is still demanding on details..

Welcome aboard Mark! Glad you made it over and look forward to seeing your modelling endeavours!
Cheers,
Peter

Welcome aboard Mark! Glad you made it over and look forward to seeing your modelling endeavours!
Cheers,
Peter

Welcome aboard Mark! Glad you made it over and look forward to seeing your modelling endeavours!
Cheers,
Peter

Hi Darren.
Have you considered seine twine? I have used this on my last few models with good effect. It come in many diameters and is pre-waxed. So much so that I run a strand through a paper towel to remove the excess. I'm fortunate to have a marine chandler in town which usually has a good supply. I'm not sure if it's available online as I haven't looked.
Good luck in your quest.
Cheers,
Peter
 

boat: bench and railing...
 





It's only 10.3 cm...
 


Now for accessories...🔥
 
For those interested in a competition or model exhibition : https://wchs-c-2023.eu/en/news/id:11798/czech-championship-of-section-c-2024

Hi Darren.
Have you considered seine twine? I have used this on my last few models with good effect. It come in many diameters and is pre-waxed. So much so that I run a strand through a paper towel to remove the excess. I'm fortunate to have a marine chandler in town which usually has a good supply. I'm not sure if it's available online as I haven't looked.
Good luck in your quest.
Cheers,
Peter
 

Hull sanded, first four Whales fitted and trimmed up sides on quarter deck and poop deck. Some pretty rough spots that had to be filled but managed to keep these below the waterline where it will be painted white.

Hi Guys,
I have commenced the running rigging at last, starting with the three sets of lifts for the 3 yards mounted on the lower masts. Baby steps... And what with runing the rigging to the spider bands at the bases of the masts, meant coiling down the ends of those lines. In the past, I used to leave enough thread after running the line through its various blocks and tackles and coiling the surplus several times around the belaying pin. However, with greater efficiency and less toil in mind I decided to put Tom Lauria's method into practice. He coils the lines off the model and places the coils on the pins. It is a more accurate depiction of how lines are coiled onto pins at the expense of having two lines make up each individual rope. Here's a link to his video:
 
 
I did make a couple of modifications to his technique so as the loop around the pin didn't come undone and used diluted white glue to set the coils up permanently. Here are a few pic's of my efforts:
 

Here I used a scrap piece of cedar strip as the pins were more easily pushed into it.
 

Here are the coils around the pins with an additional pin set back from the top edge of the cedar strip. This allowed for a bigger bight to pull under and into the coil of rope.
 

Here I used actual belaying pins to thread the bight as it made it easier to place the coils onto the model. As mentioned I used diluted white glue to set up the coils and allowed for longer tails so the bight did not become unstuck.
 



And here are the results of the lifts' rigging onto their respective belaying points. It took a bit of trial and error to come up with a successful method but I am hoping it will alleviate some of the hassle in this repetitive task. Cheers
 
 

Hi Guys,
I have commenced the running rigging at last, starting with the three sets of lifts for the 3 yards mounted on the lower masts. Baby steps... And what with runing the rigging to the spider bands at the bases of the masts, meant coiling down the ends of those lines. In the past, I used to leave enough thread after running the line through its various blocks and tackles and coiling the surplus several times around the belaying pin. However, with greater efficiency and less toil in mind I decided to put Tom Lauria's method into practice. He coils the lines off the model and places the coils on the pins. It is a more accurate depiction of how lines are coiled onto pins at the expense of having two lines make up each individual rope. Here's a link to his video:
 
 
I did make a couple of modifications to his technique so as the loop around the pin didn't come undone and used diluted white glue to set the coils up permanently. Here are a few pic's of my efforts:
 

Here I used a scrap piece of cedar strip as the pins were more easily pushed into it.
 

Here are the coils around the pins with an additional pin set back from the top edge of the cedar strip. This allowed for a bigger bight to pull under and into the coil of rope.
 

Here I used actual belaying pins to thread the bight as it made it easier to place the coils onto the model. As mentioned I used diluted white glue to set up the coils and allowed for longer tails so the bight did not become unstuck.
 



And here are the results of the lifts' rigging onto their respective belaying points. It took a bit of trial and error to come up with a successful method but I am hoping it will alleviate some of the hassle in this repetitive task. Cheers
 
 

Hi Guys,
I have commenced the running rigging at last, starting with the three sets of lifts for the 3 yards mounted on the lower masts. Baby steps... And what with runing the rigging to the spider bands at the bases of the masts, meant coiling down the ends of those lines. In the past, I used to leave enough thread after running the line through its various blocks and tackles and coiling the surplus several times around the belaying pin. However, with greater efficiency and less toil in mind I decided to put Tom Lauria's method into practice. He coils the lines off the model and places the coils on the pins. It is a more accurate depiction of how lines are coiled onto pins at the expense of having two lines make up each individual rope. Here's a link to his video:
 
 
I did make a couple of modifications to his technique so as the loop around the pin didn't come undone and used diluted white glue to set the coils up permanently. Here are a few pic's of my efforts:
 

Here I used a scrap piece of cedar strip as the pins were more easily pushed into it.
 

Here are the coils around the pins with an additional pin set back from the top edge of the cedar strip. This allowed for a bigger bight to pull under and into the coil of rope.
 

Here I used actual belaying pins to thread the bight as it made it easier to place the coils onto the model. As mentioned I used diluted white glue to set up the coils and allowed for longer tails so the bight did not become unstuck.
 



And here are the results of the lifts' rigging onto their respective belaying points. It took a bit of trial and error to come up with a successful method but I am hoping it will alleviate some of the hassle in this repetitive task. Cheers
 
 

I continue on the boat..🔥
 
I found beautiful photos of the Willem Barentsz boat replica. On the website of the modeler Heinrich. shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/high-hopes-wild-men-and-the-devil’s-jaw-willem-barentsz-kolderstok-1-50.8662/page-100 

The tops of the ribs have been cleaned, the ribs have been cleaned inside, the top edge has been ground flat..


 
 
Completed the last rib and bottom of the boat..

 
 
Outer hull and bottom of boat waxed..🎨

 
Now the railings and benches..🔥💥

Okay, the next step is a little bit of a logistical challenge. The thingy on the right is a jig for aligning the bow frames while glue sets. The challenge is, I'm supposed to glue the bow frames in, add the sub-deck, tack down the sub-deck, and, finally, temporarily secure the jig in place -- all before the glue sets. I mean, the MK guys know that wood glue sets up pretty quickly, right? Right??
 

 
As you can see, there's a laser-engraved center line on the sub-deck. The instructions don't say anything about cutting the sub-deck into halves, but I assume that's what the line is for. So my plan is to cut the deck into two halves and then do the aforementioned tasks one side at a time -- should be more manageable. Cross your fingers!
 

Another milestone behind me, the body of the boat finished, sanded and cut from the hoof with a razor saw..🔥💥


Again I used the option of dispersion glue. The sunken place on the bow after removal is wetted and pushed from the inside into the correct place..



A preview of the boat on the ship's deck..😍





Now clean the ribs and arrange.🔥

I continue on the work boat. Bending workshop..

According to the paper templates, I create more rows of boards, the edges highlighted with graphite..

The third row already has an extreme side bend. After a good soaking, the 0.8x3.5 mm strips can be bent well, just persistence. Step one - side bend..


Step 2 - after drying, bend into the shape of the torso, then fit.. I will save material against carving from wood plates..👍


The last part, closing the bottom. Too small, the bottom will not be visible, I helped myself by assembling the moldings from two parts. Otherwise, it would not be possible to do it well..🔥


 

She's a beauty!
Looking back on some of the posts of your build log I saw some discussion about a display case. I have built display cases for all my models and it's not as difficult as it might seem at first. Take it from somebody who is not particularly talented with adult tools as opposed to modelling tools. (Me)  I have discovered a site of building a display case whilst seaching for an improved method over mine and found it on modelshipcases.com by Wes Marden. It's a detailed build log of building a display case and except for a table saw, all the other tools used in its construction are pretty basic. It costs just $12US to download the instructions and I plan on using his method in building my next case.
For me, it's cringeworthy that a piece of finely constructed ship model be subjected to the elements such as years of dust accumulation and cats.... Especially cats.
Peter

She's a beauty!
Looking back on some of the posts of your build log I saw some discussion about a display case. I have built display cases for all my models and it's not as difficult as it might seem at first. Take it from somebody who is not particularly talented with adult tools as opposed to modelling tools. (Me)  I have discovered a site of building a display case whilst seaching for an improved method over mine and found it on modelshipcases.com by Wes Marden. It's a detailed build log of building a display case and except for a table saw, all the other tools used in its construction are pretty basic. It costs just $12US to download the instructions and I plan on using his method in building my next case.
For me, it's cringeworthy that a piece of finely constructed ship model be subjected to the elements such as years of dust accumulation and cats.... Especially cats.
Peter

She's a beauty!
Looking back on some of the posts of your build log I saw some discussion about a display case. I have built display cases for all my models and it's not as difficult as it might seem at first. Take it from somebody who is not particularly talented with adult tools as opposed to modelling tools. (Me)  I have discovered a site of building a display case whilst seaching for an improved method over mine and found it on modelshipcases.com by Wes Marden. It's a detailed build log of building a display case and except for a table saw, all the other tools used in its construction are pretty basic. It costs just $12US to download the instructions and I plan on using his method in building my next case.
For me, it's cringeworthy that a piece of finely constructed ship model be subjected to the elements such as years of dust accumulation and cats.... Especially cats.
Peter