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Everything posted by RGL
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No, it predates that by a fair ways. IJN ships had them so I suspect there is some cross training involved. It appears they are pulled up by block and tackle as the blueprints show no mechanics for it. The IJN ships seem to have lattice work underneath them but the DKM has steel under the wooden deck.
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This is what I meant. This is pretty much all the instructions given. Pretty much like jet blast deflectors.
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Pretty much standard equipment really for anchors really. Even Kagero books has a guess and they usually just make stuff up. The Infini Models upgrade has really nice Capstans but nowhere near the details on the other parts such as the catapults. Research i I just can’t find is how the wind defectors on the deck were deployed.
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I replaced all the anchors with North Star Models German anchors as unlike the kit ones, actually look like anchors. I added anchor chain brakes, a wooden strengthening plank (which was standard to protect the deck from the chain on German ships; most other nations used metal), chain stoppers and capstan handles i now need to weather it a tad, but you can see with the overhang of the deck this will all be hard to see.
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Back already Pat! That seems awfully quick. Working on the front and back decks, very lite details are on the kit, and the upgrade does not give much more. The rear wooden deck is supposed to be added before painting but I had to cut it down a bit to fit. The rear anchor has a hawser (circles) that does not exist in any plan or photo.
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Never say never but I don’t think that would work really. I think you just have to suck it up and go manual
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Yves, when I get to the top of the boat I’ll get to the Cats etc as I’ve been saving up some images too, but thank you. Mr Coyle, my posit was no Russia and No USA in this scenario. I understand that the Nazi’s could never have won since they kicked off Barbarossa. The impact on Enigma’s loss on the Uboat war was devastating on Germany. I framed the scenario in such a way they could have an impact and it’s the only viable usage of them. The WW2 photos of convoys of aircraft carriers really do show what the outcome could only be. If the Soviets did not stop at Berlin........ Harley, apparently enamel for paint was in short supply and a big tall ship like would be near impossible to paint at sea.
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So Grunging part 3; Rust. Using Schwartzbraun as a base layer, then dark rust then light rust. That’ll do 553A60D1-619B-47BB-A428-7BF6A868DA42.MOV
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If I was going to do a Huge Submarine like Yves, is probably use chipping fluids. The difficulty with the camo scheme is not destroying it. This US Carrier shows how grubby they get at sea,
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Basically look at photos of real ships to look for rust points, and see how it flows down the hull. As the side of this hull is so large I can’t imagine upkeep at sea would be easy. Pretty much a process of sponging on some black or using a brush , then dark rust then light rust.
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I want to rust it. It’s fun. And if I don’t, Cog will pick on me.
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With thin CA and a toothpick you’d be fine, take longer to drill out the holes.
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Grunging part 2, streaking grime from every porthole and edge, I used salt from the portholes painted navy. Rust is next 433DB6A7-B6E4-444C-8F40-440EED0A8397.MOV
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The portholes are included in the PE but they are not needed as the kit ringols are good enough really.
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Grunge part 1: using a wash for grey ships to bring out the ringols and panel lines. Streaking grime next. I inserted a video by mistake but it appears to have worked! 9E70AB2A-A8D4-47EB-87A8-9E6AA59B0E4C.MOV
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The lovely thing about this model is you just can’t hide your mistakes under paint like I do. As a builders model it’s fantastic.
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Now to tone and highlight, using AK Kriegsmarine filter. This stuff is incredibly strong so it needs a lot of diluting but it works well bringing out highlights. If you use it strait out of the bottle it splotches. I intend to do some pin washes next then some dry brushing to bring out the panels and ringols.
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