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RGL

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Everything posted by RGL

  1. The barrels are probably a bit too long but it was available in spares and not plastic, I think that there was probably only 2 paravane a on the stern not 4, as it is just too busy and the crane is probably a bit too big but I like them. The funnels/ vents down the sides are resin spares and probably about 1 to 1.5 mm too highly, but once the railing goes on it won’t matter. I imagine the rear rear cannon would be a broadside weapon or if being chased.
  2. Guns, vents, paravane sand winches, the back deck is soobusy the machine guns won’t fit. Bridge equipment and signal lights. Liferafts, liferings and railings to go.
  3. Popeye is catching up very quickly. The masts are now stepped, and I threw in a ship’s bell. Just have to rig them now, but just the stays, the upper stuff will come later.
  4. No, it’s for oil. The secondary bridge, about as small as o can manage. The photo is from WW2 with a seized Italian gun as AA
  5. The first of the rigging, stays for the funnels and the davits. I also added a few scuttles / Fuel caps beside the aft funnel which are on the plans
  6. I just did a bit of weathering to the deck with pastels, burnt umber for the brown deck, black soot for the focsle, metal parts, and funnels, then salt and rust for the focsle. Now to rig the funnels and davits.
  7. Steam winches, paravane amidships, torpedo tubes and davits (about the only thing I used from the WEM set as they actually have some details. The torpedo tubes are probably no where near as good as what Cog is using from Shapeways but shipping is worth more than the piece. They still come up nicely
  8. The old B&W photos make it look white really. I think it’s actually lighter than it’s supposed to be but I like it.
  9. I may have destroyed a couple of sprue cutters that way. As such, never again!!! i spent the entire day priming, then pre shading, and base grey coat. Nothing worth photographing. Light grey coats to go then pinwashes and a light dry brush, and start gluing again.
  10. Yes, the PE that is fairly useless to me. So overpriced. You don’t need need to make a tool, just a couple of rattle cans. Once you get it about .1mm thick you can just press in the hull plates. Much easier and safer than cutting plastic.
  11. What’s a G type? Is Mushasi getting finished? Sang Yan Park is planning to release a Soviet destroyer upgrade from Infini Models late this year ( I hope) so that would be the third of the Russians.
  12. I reckon it’s because the water goes down the sink with the opposite spin that causes the Vajello not to work down here. Ive just picked up the next build which is going to be an exercise in hull grunge. What resin did you order? I’m thinking a few days on the airbrush will have me ready for weathering.
  13. The final bits, replacement Carley flairs and the paravane cranes which are possibly some of the most high stress PE to build. I accidentally destroyed 1 of the 6 supplies so I used a couple of spare brass ones to put amidships. Lots of primer painting tommorow.
  14. Thanks, I think if I hadn’t done the ribs I would have made it a lot dirtier. There’s a guy called Koppeleski from up Cogs way who has posted his finished models on here, who has build logs on another site that I pretty much try and emulate.
  15. Hull grunge. I used diluted light grey to dull down the red hull, then diluted black to blend that in, then some green for alge and finally some more light grey to put a tide mark on the boot strap using a piece of paper as a mask. Not overly noticeable but it makes it all less shiny.
  16. It just completely clogs my H&S airbrush regardless of thinning. Tamiya and Gunze are just soo much easier. Hull numbers and depth markers added.
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