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Everything posted by RGL
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After 2 solid days of masking, and a couple of hours of painting, the bulk of the superstructure camo done and dryfitted. There is a lot to fix up and weather but this was so time consuming. I can now start some detail work.
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Enjoying your build old boy! Don’t fret about the little guns, you can hardly see the things anyways.
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Pre drill the holes into the hull, then predrilled Blocks of wood glued into the hull.
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Same, the stuff for their DDG was just horrible, I’ve taken to using Tamiya rattle can Primer on big bits of PE after I wipe them down with acetone. This is is an easy fix as I’ll just dab some little bits of black and red and overspray again with diluted grey. Glad to see you on this forum as I believe youre from @cog ‘ s part of the globe so you can instruct him as well, and you can join our next joint build later this year.
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Yes, they're a bit stark. As they are so adhesive, it'll need a scrape back to bare hull then repaint on that section/s.
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I keep nagging Mr Park on FB what he’s going to include in the upgrade. I don’t think his English is that good but the masts alone are magnificent
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I’ve made a start on the upper hull. A little bit of a wash to bring out the highlights on the hull plates I scribed in and degaussing cables. I then gave it all a light dry brush of white to highlight everything. It actually looks a lot better in real life. I have to do some streaks yet but im going to wait until I’ve done the Walrus Catapult as I have to scratch build the ends which were not included in the kit (or upgrade set) and a solid shields amidships.
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So I added some bulge pump holes on the waterline as well as a grunge/salt ring around the hull at the waterline as well as a bit more airbrushed grunge. That bits now finished. I drilled multiple holes for the stanchions going through 4 drill bits.
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I’ve tried to calculate it so I can mask and spray, then add things afterwards (ie; Carley Floats). The big bits will still need to be modulated to bring out details/highlights.
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Dirk, I completely agree, I suppose the issue is with the Internet photos are copied everywhere without references and it becomes impossible to find their original source after a while. Russian sites are a wealth of information for photos but as I only speak one language I have no idea what their captions are. The IWM site is not really user friendly for searching. The AWM is a little better, and since the death of photobucket a ginormous amount of reference material has died never to be replaced.
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Very true, the IWM mentions the status of their photos as does the AWM. It’s when they are going to be used for a commercial venture.
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They’ll done down with a matte coat
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Thanks, I have scoured the net for every photo I can, and only found 3 or 4 from 1943. So much rubbish with people just labeling photos of the wrong ship as KVG (or any other ship for that matter). Most research is open source these days and once your head is around what was fitted when makes it a lot easier to build.
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Thanks, I’ve just added the boot strap. Next will be the depth markers, then the deck will be laid down. I can then drill the stanchion holes as the deck will give me the boundary. Then weather the hull, place stanchions and rig it with ezyline. Every other time I’ve rigged the stanchions the superstructure has been on and it’s that little bit more fiddly.
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Seriously the best but if kit I have, stops PE ping as it’s flat pliers, I hardly use tweezers anymore
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Out of the set I’m going to use 2 shades, one of which I can probably replace with Mr Color or Tamiya, water dilutes it OK but it’s a pain to find how it works differently to the other acrylics.
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Don’t rivet count on the paint type. Mr Color and a Tamiya are cheap, plentiful and work well in my airbrush I’ve decided that there is no perfect colour. The blokes from WEM concede they go off B&W photos and it still comes down to individual ships to mix most of their own paints, so near enough is probably safe enough given most sailors consider themselves professional painters anyways given how much they reckon the do. Chip and paint; repeat.
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No mate, just the pain of “will the mask lift paint”, it has light grey, light blue, dark blue and black, so it’s a bit of a layer cake that requires preshading on each level or at least highlighting. I used a pencil to draw up the lines and some Tamiya flexible masking tape. i got the set of Lifecolour RN paints, add thinner and they become putty. Don’t add thinner! Use water. Light blue added, I’ll do black and dark blue tomorrow
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