RGL
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Everything posted by RGL
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The back veranda is done, this is probably all up the most complex part of the build as there are so many parts to put together you can't predict what must be done first. I think I might just paint the Pagoda and complete that just to give ale a break from PE.
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Nothing compared to rigging effort mate, I'm loving the ropes they look so real it's so bloody hard to rig properly at this scale.
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Thanks all, there are about 20 sets of ladders, 30 sets of binoculars, range finders, triple 25mm's, binacles, etc etc. it's a kit all by itself.
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Well, tower complete. There is a tripod mast I have to run through it yet and a LOT of detail to add but the basic skeleton is done.
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I didn't, the reason being the kit ones are fine, I have put a few on where there is no details. I usually shave off the plastic ones and glue on the PE. I've discovered that ringols are only above the hole, there is a lot of PE that provides them as circles and I think it's incorrect.
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Danny, it's not glued down, the idea is do up the entire structure but not glue it. Too hard to paint. It aligns on a dry fit, trust me!
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I'm loving it. The handhold protection is great too, did you put CA on the inside to bond it as well? If if I ever do this kit I'll probably go for the black hull.
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Cog I think the Tamiya kit is far better engineered than the Ise.
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2 more levels, the enclosed bridge should have s lot of detail but it really will not be visible so I may just throw in some of the kit supplied binoculars etc to give some silhouette. Lots of guns and directors to be added much later.
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The Japanese ships had these huge Pagoda towers. Given they are so intricate I am going to try and construct it so it pulls apart for ease of painting and add the multitude of ladders afterwards. Im still awaiting drill bits so I can't progress the rear of the bus. So far, that's the first two stories of 9.
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Next, back to the rear deck. There are 12 turntables, requiring me to buy 2 sets of Alliance model works railing sets. I've started on the railings and will probably use a hole punch to make up the last two turntables. Looks so much better than the kit "apathy", apparently aircraft could only fly off via the catapult anyway and the only way this would work is to use the traditional railing system. The deck itself was concrete, used as a counterweight as the rear two turrets were removed. Photos and video of the Ise show the blocks of cracked concrete and the railings. About a day's work to go on this then I'll flip it and continue with the underside.
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Small update, this piece is the rocket launcher platform that sits at the stern. Apparently they were fairly inaccurate and bloody dangerous to use, so you had to run and hide in the rooms behind them. I've value added a bit and managed to break my last drill bit doing up the stanchion holes.
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Yes mate I got it on kindle, 50% of the book is about what aftermarket is available for it, and it brushes over the service history of the ships.
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No mate, type in translate into google, then type the phrase you want, such as 'battleship mikasa' into the screen that comes up, and select language below it. This is the the way I found the builders blueprints on a Russian blog for my Varyag.
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Do a google translate search for mikasa torpedo booms in both Russian and polish. Then look at the images, there are a LOT of amazing modellers in Eastern Europe.
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The side of the ship below the flight deck has platforms for 25mm MG's and another platform for rocket launchers (not shown yet). I have scribed some pannels as i cannot see it being one continuous piece of steel.
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I'm kind of meandering with this build. The flight deck has some bonus dimples innit which I've rectified, and you can see the 'railings' really aren't and will be an aftermarket instillation. Underneath there is the the beginning of the latticework which is actually quite simple so far.
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Yes you should! The only difficulty may be finding references for rigging. At 1/200 you should be able to knock it out if the park.
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Sorry, gaps st the joins of the plastic strips. The deck will probably have to be trimmed to fit inside the strips. Just broke 1 drill bit trying to drill the PE so that answers that question.
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Because the edges of the deck are so narrow, kit and aftermarket expects you to drop in PE railings. With the wooden stick on deck, there is even less room. You has see from these colourised postacards of a Fuso class, the edge is quite substantial and have individual stanchions. As such I've placed some plastic strip around the edges where the wooden deck will drop in. The idea is to fill the gaps with putty, then pre drill all the stanchion holes. Well, that's the idea. You can see there is also two brass strips amidships which may or may not drill requiring a PE railing.
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So, not much today, took the kids to school, then had a car crash when some kid decided he did not have to give way at an intersection. Nonetheless, no injury, and back to modelling. For some reason, amidships there was a small section which has to be added on and it does not sit well. Gap filled, and the degaussing cable repairs with brass. The molded plastic is actually pretty good and does not need replacement tho the Flyhawk does provide it. I have replaced the ringols on some portholes where it is not noticeable in the molded plastic. Tomorrow I have to add some card along the entire gunnels of the ship to I can drill holes for individual stanchions.
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