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RGL

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Everything posted by RGL

  1. As a massive exercise in futility, I have commenced rigging the inboard parts of the torpedo net booms. I have completed the port side using tiny eyelets as rigging blocks (they don't Kate them this small), running as described in the AOTS to the deck winches. I have not found anyone else stupid enough to do this method yet at this scale. I have lines running everywhere down the sides of the ship that will eventually be attached to the torpedo nets. Running alongside the hull you will notice a wire, rigged through eyelets, there are two turnbuckles attached for each boom to the wire. I had to use wire as the elastic rope will stretch away from the hull and look silly (or uneven, same thing). When the nets finally go on there is more rigging required which I just can't do yet. Photos to follow.
  2. Looking at the collection of paints you have in the background, I reckon you know what you're doing. 30cm at 1/700 is massive, I've seen some of the detail kits for this ship at 1/350 and it's very complex so you've got some work ahead of you.
  3. Amazingly I've had to add lots of extras as well, both the pontos & Flyhawk upgrade sets, extra doors, rigging pieces, spares from other frets. I'm not good enough to scratch build at this scale.
  4. The answer is a really good set of tweezers. And a back roller.
  5. Moving along, Pontos has a fairly elaborate set up for the torpedo nets. The AOTS book shows the rigging lines for them, which I shall now have to interpret to get correct. The shelves on the gunwales hold the nets when stowed, but as they will be deployed, they stand out and are frustrating to place. I have added the eyelets for the booms and the boat booms. Finally the net davits, from which I will run the onboard rigging first before I set the booms and nets, again working inboard to outboard, then I can add the awning stanchions, the davits the last of the rigging and the flags, and the ships cats, before the final stage of adding the booms and nets.
  6. The Pontos rails were very nice, so why not, as they have very nice braces. The next one will be individual stanchions again. So, what should it be? Borindino? Mikasa? Yamato?
  7. Things should move along quickly now. This is the first time I've actually used rails for a ship, as I usually do individual stanchions.
  8. Now, I have finally placed the old girl on its Jarra Base, (which I have wrapped in plastic to save drips.. Next is the flagstaff's, which I have to add next as the rest of the rigging requires doing before the railings. After the placing of lots of turnbuckles for belaying points, I have added the awning and hammock lines. I also rigged the coaling derricks on the main mast. Finally, in the back ground to my desk is a photo I took at dawn back last century from the HMAS Bendigo of a tramp ship that had just deposited 300Kg's of Heroin on our fair shores. It didn't get away.
  9. Bad typing, put a drop of glue onto a piece of hard plastic, dip a pin in it, then place said drop onto the piece you want to stick together?
  10. Puddles of glue on a hard plastic surface, dip a pin in or an off it of brass etch the apply to either the piece I'm using or the place it's going (if that makes sense?). If it's load bearing I'll put a tiny drop on top of the piece that bears weight. The pins get a build up of hard glue after a while which I burn off then sand back to a clean surface. Less is more with CA. Like a tall ship, it's lots of pre prep, as one something has been painted off kit it will not fit as the tolerances are so small, if you paint something that fitted into a slot pre painted, it won't fit post painted, or it won't fit flush. CA works best on unpainted etch or plastic but the result is usually crap after painting as the detail is lost, especially if you're going to have differing colours, so I try and do everything as piece work, and use a tiny bit of matte coat by hand on glossy bits of CA. I'm not a proponent of over spraying with a matte coat as at this scale it loses detail to my eye (I have very good close vision and it upsets my OCD). I like to pre drill required holes then add eyelets afterwards otherwise the hole fills up with paint and you can't rig without having to risk major breakages clearing holes. I hope this makes sense?
  11. Simple solution, finish the model, put it in a glass case and park it against the wall with the damaged side facing it! Or just Put some Tamiya fine putty on the mark and sand fine, and overspray.
  12. Don't get disparaged, I have spent 5 days prepping all the final stages of my build, all the etch is done and now just to paint. It shouldn't be work, that pays the mortgage and school fees. And for beer of course.
  13. Mate that's just fantastic! The anchor stock Wales really come up a treat.
  14. Haha, you're correct. The 3 colours are white, rust and black. I actually prefer the Uschi brand. I read that it deteriorates in UV light. Still, a lot easier than stretched Sprite as you can lash it.
  15. Apparently it does not like sunlight, I've only started 1/350 in the last 12 months, so time will tell. There are other brands out there but I expect it's all the same compounds.
  16. You'll need differing diameters just like a tall ship. It's a pity it does not come in grey. The smallest is very hard to see and harder to work with. It sticks to the oils on your fingers.
  17. Have you tried Ezyline? Very light, does not have to pull hard to get tension and if you knock it, it gives. Try a pinprick of CA to the joins on the rigging just to be sure. Basically very thin elastic bands.
  18. Considering how much even the really expensive aftermarket leaves out requiring even more internet shopping, I'm not going to go larger, as I have lots of spares now, yet alone the storage space required. It might force my hand into buying an airbrush as well which I have been putting off. This scale shows detail without the bulk. Happy to watch others tackle the big stuff!
  19. The spreaders are steel etch that came with the upgrade. I am now in the process of bending the torpedo net Davits, comes in two pieces, so that's 84 pieces, requiring 120 folds for the base, and 42 folds for the davit itself. Eyesight fading.
  20. And done.Messy at first; Then, they are supposed to be slung below but at they are under tension, they need to be tight, and as the whole assemby is very fragile, it's somewhat nerve racking.
  21. Who will probably find missing parts sooooooooo much easier as they don't have "boy looks"!
  22. Seriously, I did go a little cross eyed. It took me three hours to do the first failure, absolute mess, but it's done and slung, bugger me it worked! Photos to come after the youngest gets off the computer.
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